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I love everything about this guy’s approach to repairing bikes! Super methodical, and performs all the jobs (in detail) bike enthusiasts think about, but haven’t yet done. I even notice his bare feet in the workshop - so keen to get out and work on the bike. I know the feeling! Thanks for great videos. You never fail to please!

That dime trick is an absolute 10/10 idea for toeing in. I always learn something new from your videos, and I really appreciate it. That’s just my 10¢ though...

I know this is an old video but, you did a great job in detail with explaining how to change out the brakes while showing how to professionally trim everything! Thanks! I bought a 2015 Trek Verve 3 about a month ago that someone took good care of and I love it! The ergonomics have been a God send to my wrists, neck and shoulders. I plan to maintain it myself and your videos are a great help! Subscribed!

I have followed your videos over the past 3 weeks and have successfully restored my 25 year old mountain bike. Thankyou for making it so easy to follow.

"This noodle doesn't need a ferrule".... Exactly what I needed to hear. I thought I was going nuts because a ferrule wasn't fitting the noodle on my mtb, and the Tektro on my bmx bike has one. Thanks a million!

I just have to say a massive thanks for the vids you upload (read: hard work and care). I don't watch all of them, but when I need to do something on my bike, this is the first place I look. thanks again!!

You explain very clearly and systematically. I adjusted my brake after watching this video and everything works smoothly. Thank you so much, RJ!

Thanks - adjusting v-brakes on used bikes is such a pain. Other than checking if the wheel is centered, I bang my head trying to adjust them. This gives me a better overview! 👍

those Trek crmo frames are just amazing, had one for 2 years back in 90s and it was probably the most light frame i had back in the time, even lighter than aluminum frames

I would have to say your tutorial is perfect. I enjoyed watching this and felt a great sense of confidence working on my brakes. Thank you so much!

I found this post/video while searching to change the brakes. Even though I hardly understand English, I figuratively understood everything perfectly as a German. just great! Excellent ! Thank you !

The three holes for the spring on the frame are actually meant to be used, instead of always using the middle hole and then bending the spring to adjust. Just try using the upper or lower holes. Otherwise, great tutorial! Thanks.

This is perfect! I've got an old Schwinn that somebody gave me in college, and desperately needs some upgrades. I wasn't sure if I could tackle the brake conversion, but this is an incredibly thorough tutorial! Thank you! :3

And again, just what I was looking for,and couldn't find anywhere on the internet.RJ saves the day !! Thanks for sharing this !! Sincere greetings from the Netherlands

I know this is an older video but this was very insightful! Gives me a lot more confidence in converting an old Bridgestone MB-2 over from Cantilevers.

Good job there buddy! I have been building bikes for the last 30 something years! I am still learning even now with all the new stuff coming out!

Excellent video. He's a very good teacher. I particularly liked the suggestion about using the dime to set the toe in. Every detail of the entire installation process was covered very clearly. Thank you.

RJ! You make great videos. Lots of times I watch some of your videos that I don't even have a need for, but I just like to watch them!

I'm watching this video while searching the inter-web and came across a blog that has to be RJ. Definitely a pic of this exact bike. V brakes vs. Canti

Nice simple tip for adjusting the toe in with a dime. I'd previously tried doing it with a rubber band as I'd seen in a Park tool video, but this seems easier. Learn something new every day from you, RJ!

I literally did the same thing yesterday to a Trek 950 SingleTrack, and now it's in my Recommended.

Glad I found your channel. You're awesome. Saving me a lot of time, money and pain as I rebuild a KHS Town and Country and a Trek 800. Thanks bro.

This is a most informative video, well done! I had already cut my cable housing and installed the new Shimano V brakes but could not get the left (cable insert) side to move very much with brake lever applied. I tried the screw adjustments demonstrated here, but no joy. I then re-cut a new piece of housing a few inches longer, so the bend was more gradual (as demonstrated here) and my problem is solved. If you are in doubt, cut it a little longer as it's more cost effective if & when you need to trim. I also liked the use of an awl to open the cut ends, works great. Excellent video, thank you!

I have a lot of bicycles and thanks to your videos, I do all repairs, maintenance, and modifications. I've acquired enough Park and Pedro's tools to do the jobs correctly. When you showed how to bend the tension spring on the V-brake, my high school shop teacher would have described the bending as re-calibrating the angle. I derive much satisfaction from taking care of my beautiful bicycles. Thank you.

every time i think i know what i am doing, i find one of your videos and realize i was doing it all wrong !! these simple bikes are far harder to work on than a high end road bike. i have them. they are simple to maintain and service but all these dept. store bikes are different and so varied in parts. crazy. finding an expensive new derailleur is easy but it is much harder to find dept store parts sometimes. thanks for the continuing education !!

Thanx, Mr. Bike Guy, for detailed and informative video on how to do it! Now I am fully inspired AND equipped to convert my oldie Comanche Prairie to v-brake system. Thumbs up, subscribed and that's a GO for me! )))

You make the best bike videos. And give a gigantic contribution to cycling. Thanks!!!

Thanks for the guide! Super hepful and well explained! Time to check the new breaks on my bike!!!

What a great tutorial, thanks for posting this RJ!

RJ, great video. Even though I did my conversion a few months ago, I still enjoyed watching a professional. I had been fighting with cantilever brakes on that bike for years. I do not regret doing the conversion. The bike actually stops now. :)

Thanks, this video was very help in my making the decision to move forward with this conversion in restoring my Trek 950 mountain bike. Though I could have gone without the gnarly bare feet! LOL

I really liked this video, it is very informative. I came into a Trek 930, and I am thinking of making the same conversion on my bike.

thanks so much! I realized what I needed to do. Was doing the same canti to vbrake conversion on my tandem.

very nice video, thanks for sharing... if i may add, instead of bending the return springs of the brakes 23:50 maybe relocate the other end of the spring that goes into the mounting posts' holes 4:05. *most times when a brake doesn't move like at all, a large L-R imbalance like shown with this bike, there is too much friction on the mounting post, dirt / corrosion / sometimes damage. so inspect the post and brake itself in that point and proceed accordingly.

Last time I fitted a v brake, there was no internet let alone KZfaq. I needed this vid in 1997.

I've also seen tying a rubber band onto the brake pad, or putting several Post-It notes on the rim, to act as a temporarily attached spacer for adjusting the toe.

Awesome. Thanks for the super helpful and simple explanation!

I do use threadlocker on V/Canti brake mounting screws because: 1. You don't want them coming loose. 2. You don't want them rusting. Threadlocker, especially if you are slightly generous with it, seals the threads and keeps out water. (Not too generous!) You could grease the threads instead. That also keeps water out and, if the screws are properly tightened, they are unlikely to back out. I would not install them dry.

Great Video! You know your stuff! Great tips!

I needed the tip for the Origin 8 cable stop clamp. My wife has a Trek 730 and it had that same silly metal cable tube that only works with cantilever brakes. For a temporary workaround, I ran the full cable housing from the brake lever to the noodle and zip-tied the cable to the top tube. It actually works pretty well, just a little unsightly with the 3 zip ties.

Another helpful, informative video. Good stuff.

My daughters bike had a terrible noise when the brakes were applied. The part about "toe-in" fixed it! Thanks.

hey bro, it was very fun and wonderful to follow you and learn so many things that i wasn't known before God bless you and Good Luck

You are the man RJ!!!! Thanks!!!

Many many thanks for that video. Best regards from Italy.

i love the very good ,clear detailed explanation and step by step instructions in this wonderful video, which is very helpful. Thank u very much to the video creator :) :)

Amazing, just amazing videos. Greeting from Bulgaria!

We were just about to do this conversion on my friends bike, this video will be helpful. Thanks RJ!

Really good explanations. Thank you.

Thanks! I didn't know I would have to change the levers as well as the brakes. That saved some unnecessary hassle.

Cool video man. Thanks for posting

I really enjoyed this. Thanx for sharing

Thank you Troy! When you are a beginner, the slightest things must be explained. Got a V-Brake kit, a chinese one, and have been hesitating to proceed. DUH.

Excellent, I just learned the awl cable housing trick, thanks.

I was making the switch to v brakes and when I ran the rear brake cable, I realized I did not have a cable stop on the frame in the correct place. Doh! This vid provided the fix.

Had issues with the V-Brake not moving on one side. You showed me the way to fix it. THANK YOU

Very helpful! Thanks a lot!

Great vid, helpful, thanks mate

Great video. Very helpful.

Thanks muchissimo RJ for a thorough and simple to follow Instructioal o_o

Great video. Thanks for the info.

14:51 is just what I was looking for thanks RJ.

I Cannot even begin to emphasize how much BETTER these work than the Cantilever brake arrangement!! Not too long ago, I fully restored one of my BMX bikes (that I used to race in 1996, when I was 16 y/o). I REALLY wanted to keep the whole bike "period correct" for the mid 90's, but the brakes were just flat-out TERRIBLE! I figured at least I could keep the old brake parts in a box...so I went for a $12 or something shimano setup, and the cool guy at the bike shop had an old anodized purple Tech-Lite lever, sitting in is tool box that he gave me (which was awesome, since I had blue/purple factory frame decals, and blue and purple anodized parts on the entire bike)... Anyways, sorry to be rambling on! Just wanted to say, if you have small wheels (like 20" BMX) you WILL NOT regret this swap! I can lock the wheel up with my pinky finger now! :)

thanks for the video, im about to commence with this same operation

U GOT IT!!! Good job.

This is simply excellent. Very clear. Very helpful. One thing I do when replacing cables is to give the outer cable a couple of squirts of light oil. I have no idea whether it's necessary, but many years ago in a Balkan winter I had my cables freeze. Solid levers concentrate the mind very quickly. This trick seemed to stop that from happening. 😊

Masterclass. Thanks for sharing !! Even managed it in bare feet :) :)

Perfect video. Thanks, dude!

explained real well in detail

Good video! Helpful!

C'est très claire.Merci pour les conseils.

nice vid man really helpful

Thanks a lot. Very helpful ♥

Great explanation

Hahaha! 11:20 English language is so funny! Great tutorial by the way. Just what I needed! Thanks!

This video was helpfull. Thank you.

very helpful, thank you

nice job i learned something new today thank you

I like those Shimano EF-51s. I like the trigger shifting better than grip shifting. I have the same set on my Mongoose Switchback Expert except the tops are silver instead of black. They work real good.

A well made and helpful video

Well done bro for perfect video

thank you, this was very usefull!

This is a useful video... I was going to do this on an older gary fisher

thanks mate, well made tutorial

Awesome brother.

thanx RJ .... man I see chunks of cable housing flying around and your barefooted !! FEARLESS !! BADDASS !!

Always use locktite on the brake bolt installation. The blue locktite is the best way to keep the mounting bolts from coming loose.

Thank you for the through demonstration. I am about to pick up an old Raleigh and the front brakes are missing completely and the rear brakes are just hanging down like the ones in your bike. I want to put a good set of V Brakes on it. And hopefully it doesn't need much else. If it does, I know where to find a demonstration video. Thanks again.

too good man! all intrinsic details;

That's a nice and comfy saddle

Thank you! i have to fit V brakes on a new frame i just acquired and didn't have a clue, now i do. Just be careful working barefoot, dropping cable cutter on your foot would be very painful.

Good vid! I've always wondered why they bothered with the bare cable sections at all. Just for looks or an easy and clean way to secure the cable maybe?

your local bike shop must love you haha. you buy so much bike stuff to fix old bikes

Thanks bro

I've had to deal with cantilever brakes that even with a little dry chain oil the arms were tight on the mounts. Super fine emery cloth, and then polishing compound fixed it. You can get flexible brake "noodles" they're made using a flexible mesh sheath instead of a hard tube, you don't end up with such a big loop of brake cable between the frame and the actual brake.

Thanks 👍

Thanks RJ.....

Rj My brake alignment tool arrived yesterday, on the first brake pads blocks i had to readjust by eyeball the second bike with the tool seemed be okay. Need to fit a few more pads to get an honest opinion

nice tutorial !