wow! Thanks for the complement!

Hats off sir. Thank you so much for your efforts.

@@MetaloMan007 your welcome

awe shucks! Thanks

thanks

thanks!

Thanks.

thanks

I appreciate the compliment. Your welcome.

Well then, NICE DIAG to you!

thanks for the complement

Glad it helped

Thank you so much.

@@CoolAirVw Here i am back again needed to refresh my memory. I love the fact that you showed the good vacuum for the n75 just what i was after.

thanks

thanks for the kind words

poti sa imi scri in romana cum ai rezolvat problema?

@@adrianadrian9479 Nu, nu pot. Dar dacă vizionați videoclipul puteți vedea ce parte am înlocuit.

Thanks for watching.

thanks for watching. More videos coming. Maybe one will come in with a problem like what your describing.

I have other video's on P0299. Thanks for the compliments

get a used one or use a vacuum reservoir from a older one that is external of the VC.

Glad it was helpful!

maybe but remember the cap was broken off and glued back on for some reason.

Best comment ever! Thanks! Its nice to be appreciated.

Junk Yard, recycle.

your welcome

Just dont drill holes in the VC and you'll be set.

thanks

Lots of people have commented that allready but I would guess few of them watched to the end where the cap of the valve cover was shown that it was broken off and glued back on.

@@CoolAirVw Thanks for the reply. i watched thru. Makes sense now. I had figured it was just customer's wish. Keep the vids coming. I learned a good deal here to use on my Tdi. Your videos are easy to watch. Talking things thru as you work is awesome. Thank you. 👍

If you have an 06 like this one there is a smoke and hesitation problem that can be solved.

your welcome

thanks for watching and I appreciate toe t positive comments.

Thanks. More boost related video's coming.

thanks

Obviously some of the SAME DIAGNOSIS STRATEY MIGHT APPLY TO OTHER TURBO CARS .

thanks for watching.

Very good to know. Of course plugging the hole was an option, but with the part being broken off and the fact that it was for a customer I had to guarantee it was a good fix. Plugging the hole has been mentioned before in the comments.

Thanks!

Thank you. Very common for the turbo actuator diaphram to be ruptured. Look for vacuum leaks also.

Question: I've got a 2006 Jetta TDI (BRM) with an automatic transmission. I'm getting a low boost code (P0299) and can't find any vacuum leaks. When I connect the vacuum line to the N75 (pressure converter), it seems as though it sends full vacuum to the turbo actuator (the actuator holds vacuum just fine and is set to open at around 3-5 PSI vacuum and fully opened at 18-20 PSI), thus forcing it to open completely and run horribly. Do you know if the actuator is supposed to send full vacuum to the actuator at idle?Hope that all makes sense.

I think your question is answered at 13:43 in the video.

Thanks, so I guess I'm getting the exact same vacuum from there, but for some reason when I connect it (as seen at 13:45) to the actuator the car starts running horribly. I can see the pin in the actuator drop all the way down. It has a new turbo on it and I know the veins are moving just fine.

Thats strange. Can you define what you mean by "runs horribly"? Are you still driving it? What brand or supplier is the new turbo from? Does it trigger trouble codes? Have you inspected for camshaft wear? Camshaft wear problem would be very evident if the intake tube was removed from the intake (at ASV/ EGR ) valve and you ran the engine. It would sound like popping from intake usually.

Thank you.

Yes it is possible.

got another BRM P0299 code video coming up.

cool! Thanks for watching. Be sure to watch our other boost videos.

your welcome

thanks for watching.

Mechanic said the whole turbo needs to change which is £1600. But will test it in the sequence you did to find the exact problem. Hopefully it is something minor

@@AjmalKhan-rq5xu what year passat do you have?

thanks. Have lots of boost replaced video's on the channel.

Your welcome!

thanks

thanks for watching

thanks

thanks for watching.

Certainly was an option and was considered. Customer wasn't cheap though and after considering that the cover had been broken off and glued back in place we thought it might be nice to have it right, for longevity.

Photography is not enough

Or JB weld it shut haha. I would do the exact same.

Thanks.

thanks for watching

black smoke and low boost probably means a boost leak. Look for splits in hoses or disconnected hoses. I have a video on a boost leak, but its a different car. Point of me sharing this video link is, smoke plus low boost is boost leak. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fbOho6yXxpyXmnU.html

Youre welcome.

excellent!

It holds vacuum. Full amount. As much as you can pump it up with a hand pump it should seal.

CoolAirVw Rm thanks buddy! The system is doing about 28in mercury from the PD pump. The storage tank though is taking 20+ pumps to get up to this, and only hits about 20?. When this turbo under boost fault comes on, I heard a “pop” sound like something had unstuck (10th time in 2 days I’ve generated it on test so I know it’s not loose pipes etc)

@@richardroope1424 If it doesn't bleed off after you pump it up to 20 then its probably fine.

thanks

thanks.

I’ve got the newer 105 engine and there’s no tutorials on it for p0299 all boost pipes on turbo trying to boost but just vibrating

Thanks

thanks.

thanks for watching.

See my other video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Zph7fdt_07_Nip8.html

thanks!

denada!

thanks for watching.

@@CoolAirVw you are welcome. And what is the response time of turbo to throttle??

scan tool puts engine computer in a test mode that cylcles it. If yours isn't fluctuating then either the test isn't happening or the solenoid is stuck open or the computer is incapable of closing the valve.

I hear this alot, but I dont think its real. Sometimes overboost codes "disappear" when you cycle the key. Scan it right when it happens without turning off the car and I'll bet you get a code. Or maybe your scanner is crap.

@@CoolAirVw that’s the problem, I took my laptop with me and scanned it right away without cycling the ignition. Still no code. I also have Hex V2 bought from an authorised Ross Tech dealer here in the UK so it’s not that either.

@@Mac_F87 Ok. Do you have a lack of power that clears up after cycling the key?

@@CoolAirVw yes exactly that buddy. The limp mode seems to happen intermittently also. I mean it’s intermittent but it happens at least once every time I drive it. The van was tuned when the second last owner before me had it. On the logs you do see it overboost slightly under full throttle. Requested is 2100mb-2300mb but that never causes the limp mode or triggers a fault code. I’ve seen many people say it happens to them when they demand heavy load from the engine. As in full throttle or going up a steep incline. Mine seems to be more partial throttle light load. The thing is 99% of these people get an associated fault code. It’s really got me puzzled anyway. I’ve been away with work for two weeks but when I get home tomorrow I’m going to check vacuum supply, check the N75, check the vacuum reservoir and also check for turbine shaft play on the turbo. I checked the VNT shaft before going away to work and it seemed to be fine, full range of motion and returned to its testing position freely. What I really don’t get is why I don’t get over boost or under boost codes.

@@Mac_F87 Try again. I've had customers say "no codes" many times. Then I check and there are none. Then I reproduce the issue and I have a code. If that isn't the case with yours I don't have an answer. My opinion is certain software versions in the engine computer will "erase" boost codes for no reason, but in my experience the code is there when the limp mode happens. Logic would say if it is truly limp mode the computer is "limping" for a reason. It only makes sense that it would limp for a code. If yours is different I have no answer. But if I had one here behaving that way I would diagnose as if it had the code, but the next step for me whether it had the code or not would be to graph boost and see what is happening.

No it should not. You didn't state year make model, but I'll assume its something similar to the 06 in the video. The valve cover has a vacuum chamber built in to supply with vacuum if there is "low vacuum circumstance" also there is a one way check valve to seperate "important" vacuum functions from not so critical functions. Check those things.

@@CoolAirVw golf 2008 1.9tdi BLS. I just tested the vacuum line going from the egr exhaust cooler solenoid to the exhaust cooler and it holds no vacuum. Which is typical because its hard to access and I'm reading to replace the diaphragm of the valve I would have to replace the whole cooler and not just the valve controller stem which I see in parts stores. Have you dealt with this part much? Seems like the bls is less common than the (seemingly) simpler and better designed ALH etc. Thanks again for any help

I wouldn't assume that the noise makes it damaged. but if it cant control vacuum then it is damaged.

And also, if you fitted a camshaft to it recently, was the hole there then, and if so, were the owners getting this issue back then too?

I have no idea why someone broke the top off and drilled the hole. The customer was having intermittent limp mode before and after the cam.

Maybe they mounted a vacuum gauge?

please explain how you came to that conclusion? Is the actuator moving all the way to the sop? If you use a hand vacuum pump will the actuator move all the way to the stop?

hand held vacuum pump is available everywhere. Yes, VCDS. get it at ross-tech.com or cascadegerman.com

Not too much the same on 1.8T as this one. Look for boost leaks and check the wastegate adjustment. Lack of power or clogged cat makes boost trouble codes also. check diverter valve.

@@CoolAirVw I know, but your way of using the gauge was well done. The N75 valve basically has the same layout, and I’m worried it could be the problem. The diverted valve is a good point too! Thanks for the reply.

@@jakobbedholm3352 You cant run output tests with engine running on 1.8T so vacuum checks have to be different.

@@CoolAirVw oh I see.. well I did some output test, and all responded. Did a smoke test and no leaks. Did a short driving log, and saw a small hiccup where the MAF sensor dropped, so i am not sure what to make of that, but a longer drive will definitely give a better reading. I did purchase a new diverted valve just for good measure.

@@jakobbedholm3352 did the maf sensor drop out cause the hiccup or did the hiccup cause the maf sensor drop out?

"the powertrain fault?" You mean a overboost code like the one in the video?

The trouble code that you saw me get out of the computer using the laptop with the vagcom system will trigger a check engine light. Be sure to watch my other videos on boost problems.

try the tests in the video

you can get this style of hand vacuum pump everywhere. Oreilly auto parts carries them. Harbor freight has a crappy one. Amazon, ebay ect.

thanks for the compliment.

Me too

@@CoolAirVw i have similar problem with my audi a4b6 1.9tdi.. when im in 2nd gear i floor it, and until it gets to 2100rpm it feels like im driving 1.0 engine, the moment i reach that 2100rpm turbo starts, and it rips tires. my ecu is ABT mapped to arround 170hp, im not sure, but i feel like it should be more agile in low rpms and have better acceleration.. any ideas of what sould i check? our mechanics here are nowhere near your knowladge lvl, pls give me some pointers.. and sry for broken engl.. :S

crank vent tube comes off like a medicine bottle. You squeeze at 3 oclock and 8 oclock and it releases at 12 and 6 oclock.

sure. thanks for complement.

thanks

Dont know.

@@CoolAirVw bit blunt but thanks anyway worth a try.

Thanks for watching. To know you'll have to know if your over boosting. What trouble code? Graph boost with vagcom to know. Check that the actuator holds vacuum. Run output test on solenoid to see if it works. Make the checks in the video or you might need to find someone who can.

I do not know.

check for boost leaks. Vacuum supply could be low also.

CoolAirVw Rm I’ve seen different people talk about certain hoses/charge pipes that can get a slight crack in them and be noticeable and still be able to reach boost pressures. If and when the car throws the code the normal stop and restart the car process completely clears it up and it drives perfect after that. I see boost pressure of around 20 psi. I got the car tuned and just wondering if that possibly has something to do with it.

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