perhaps its better they arnt, the regular centre will probably not move the bolt deeper, give you a chance to make a nice well, so the full flute of the left hand drill has something to grab?

Phantom.eu sells those here in Europe, they work great. Partnumber starts with 19.951

Walter Titex makes an extensive range in RH and LH, HSS and carbide. Also the French-made Magafor brand.

Solvent-wash, for sure.

sam yeates That's the great thing about choice

actually i imagine the machines as they get restored and get new oil are purring like kittens enjoying all the love they are getting, perhaps we should talk to them more so they feel at home again

ROBRENZ Oh he don't mind us showing our viewers what we learned from him. I'll try and bring some more rebuild action.

MrGreendragon3 glad your liking it.

+oxtoolco Trying some new stuff, probably a shocker to some. I'd love to make some shiny new scraped ways on that little grinder.

Is a scraped iron surface really what you need for rollers to ride on? I would think hard and shiny would be ideal. You could use that powder you use for building up bearing journals, then scrape or grind it down level with the unworn edges.

it was originally scraped in I think. I'd be sorta scared to OFW precision cast iron. Especially since he's got two good indicating surfaces.

For those wondering, the factory hand scraped these ways when it was built new.

The machine has been converted from plain ways to roller ways. The ways originally used to rub on each other like a lathe or a mill does. The wells had oil in them and springs and rollers to transfer the oil to the ways originally. The grinder can be scraped in to be returned to that configuration, or the rollers can be used. Not sure how those rollers and ways will look when carefully inspected. It is very common for rollers and ways to be severely damaged by transporting the machine with the table on it, which leads to the rollers being pounded into the ways, leaving a bunch of dinged up parts. The roller ways have less friction, which is nice for a manual machine, unless you want Popeye arms -- wait, you already have them!

+jon arbuckle Thanks.

+Fourby Ah man they worked great! Good quality drill bits! Thanks Neil

I watch every single episode on your channel and I was waiting for them to come up... then when you said you were gonna use lefties I was just willing you to bring them out... then boom! Cheers Adam keep up the good work.

+Joe McIntyre Glad to finally see a good comment about the music. As a creator I'm always thinking of ways to make small changes to keep things fun and interesting.

Abom79, some time ago, I heard a great tune on Keith Fenner's channel. It was called 'New Life' from the Melodyloops compilation. It's great when he revives it, it's like listening to a radio channel with old favourites that you remember from your past. Variety, my friend is the spice of life. Joe. P.S. I think the brass bushing will be just fine if the shocks are working at right angles to the bolts!!

nice music !! choose whatever music you like, I'll watch your videos anyway !!!

James Hatfield I was going to say this if no one else had, I remove alot of broken bolts, and the automatic center punch is the first tool I always try. Especially great for awkward spots where you can't swing a hammer.

+Scott Tyndall's Home Shop Gotta order them. Good to have around.

Penetrating oil is hygroscopic, which means it attracts water from the air to the metal you don't want to rust in the first place. Best to use real oil which doesn't attract moisture right out of the air. Better to clean penetrating oil off first though as it may leave hygroscopic salts behind. To everything, there is a purpose.

+emil dekoven We use it pretty often, but in the chance your going to be welding onto the bolt you really don't want all that penetrant burning and smoking in your face.

Oh a surface grinder? In the y direction, maybe. But certainly not in the x.

It's pretty common practice to do so. Especially after rescraping the machine.

Yes I agree, after rescraping it is absolutely fine... before rescraping not so much... the grinding of the chuck after mounting is normal, but the mounting surface for the chuck? i would consider this surface as important which has to be absolutely flat... so if the axis is out and travels a bow, do not transfer the bow to the top Surface by grinding the mounting surface... this make it only worse all in all...

It would transfer the bow to the chuck when you ground it too. But I do see what you are getting at.

hes going to try handscraping them

I am looking as well, Wonder if Adam accidentally sent it back in time

@@brockstravels7586 same here I'm also looking for it

Martin Born Im a creator, trying some new stuff.

Abom79 that's great! But I personally like the usual intro more than the new one.

Abom79 I think someone was watching engieener BrunS videos.Am I right?😛

There is a ton of slop between the drill bit and the lever. The drill grabs and pulls down into the work and takes up the slop, you just have to watch for it and back the lever off as the screw comes up.

+Dave Sage once the drill catches the bolt and it starts to unscrew it pushes the drill up naturally, You just keep downward pressure on the drill to keep unscrewing it.

Obviously it works. I saw the results on one of the screws. I guess it depends how much downward pressure you applied. I would have thought with enough pressure to get the drill to work the screw would just come up and get drilled more rather than be able to work against the force you can apply with the quill. I guess you have to finesse it. No Abom torque there I guess :-) Thanks. I really enjoy your videos.

Yep. Just don't push too hard, and it will back out and raise your hand with it. Just keep enough pressure to unscrew it.

+Peter Vance Im sure you can buy them from any of the major tooling suppliers. I need to get some.

jusb1066 i have the same issue with you, common solvents wont remove but only soften the guu

+mega, i know with both linseed and other veggie oils, once it polymerises fully, its solvent proof, nothing dissolves it, if you really wanted to mess up a machine, change its oil for boiled linseed oil! adams machine may have sat a couple decades and what with the oil already in it being ancient and unloved, thats the result.

Years ago I had a callout to a Chinese restaurant, Extractor fan over the burners wasn't working, I took it off the roof- it was a 24" inline 3-phase jobbee, and it was raining. Took it back to the workshop and no solvent, acid or alkaline would touch the goo, I ended up chiselling it off and wire wheeling everything clean, Horrid job. J.

Average Joe thats the only way haha

+W.A. van Buren Yes I believe it's 50s-60s era.

+Kevin Byrne I've got the Zep purple cleaner, works good too

Lye is good stuff. My dad has a sprayer that uses a venturi to put it on. Works great, just remember to turn the air pressure down. :)

It's a screw size. We have screws from 0 up to 12. From 12 it goes to 1/4". Numbers drills also help fill out the decimal sizes in between the fractional sizes, but only covering the smaller end of the spectrum, same with letter sizes, they fill in sizes around the fractions. Maybe I'll talk about that on shop talk.

Abom79 yes. Do that. Would be great! Sometimes i do that kind of work.

That would de great! Some times i do work with american stuff and that kind of "strange" things.