Thanks for watching!

@jay nedd They turned out amazing! Just take your time on each stage and don't half ass it!

Thanks for watching and your experience! It's good to see someone else who wants to fix the minor details on their car too :)

@jay nedd Nope. Clear coat will eventually craze again. I just had PPF clear film applied on the headlights.

@jay nedd Yes. I had my local tint shop install the clear film since they're top notch.

Unbelievable 10 sanding steps? It's a wonder you have any polycarbonate lens left??If the lens have heavy neglected oxidation then use no lower than p320 max!! Then p500 , p800, dry then a p3000 trizact with water!!4 steps clean lens with any spray on glass cleaner and allow to dry before buffing with headlight polish Turtle wax is as good as any!!! After wipe lens useing a clean micro fibre cloth, And apply a certified Clearcoat like Meguiars clearcoat with added UV protection, One coat drys extra fast job done, Its not Rocket science!!🤔🥺👍

Thanks for the tips! I actually started doing that for some of my other videos as well! Its holding up really well for me. So far I've done it on 4 of my cars and it still looks great. It is definitely hard to tell if its inside or outside but the ones I have has always been outside. I usually turn on the lights and look from the side and sometimes you can see if its inside or outside.

@@statuskuogarage7462 good idea about inspecting them with the lights on. thanks!

You have to decide whether the cracking was caused from UV harmful rays from the sun, Or 2k clearcoat or both? I personally believe the usual suspect is 2k which should never be applied to headlights ever!! It's soul purpose was meant for car bodies after the car as had a respray which gives extra UV protection!! This product have damaged countless headlights permanently,Here in the UK any cracking found in our yearly inspection on polycarbonate lens is a automatic replacement!!!🤔🇬🇧👍

Hey! Thanks for the suggestions as I actually thought the same thing prior to this project until I read the TDS on the SprayMax 2in1 Headlight spray and it asks to go up to P3000. I tried it on a spare headlight with 1000 recently and 3000 on another and there was definitely a clarity difference. I guess since it’s a different substrate, it works with the higher grit as 2k solvents “melts” onto it rather than lay on top of car paint. I’d had issues where if you spray too heavy in the first coat, you’d end up softening the plastic and causing the same cracks I’m fixing in the video so I always do a super light coat, let it flash and then proceed with my heavier ones. Good luck with your project!

@@statuskuogarage7462 oh interesting i didn't realize spraymax has a headlight polycarbonate specific product now, i thought that was just their regular 2k clear. The 2k just means it has a catalyst/hardener that you combine. Likely this product has a plastic adhesion promoter in it which is what they're calling "primer" and it's also what likely dissolved your lens. Usually an adhesion promoter isn't used on optically clear plastic because it does tend to "melt" the plastic to promote adhesion and causes clarity issues. Good to know about the very light first coat to lessen that. I'm curious if it will cause more crazing (the subsurface cracks you're referring to) though as some chemicals do (ammonia or silicone cured products do that to polycarbonate). keep us updated if it does. Also I just read the TDS for it and it says to go up to 2k grit, not 3k - just FYI. Thanks for responding!

@@statuskuogarage7462 quick update - one of their docs says P3000, the others say P2000. I've noticed this inconsistent documentation from spraymax before. Which is right? No idea.

It is SprayMax 2K 2 in 1 Headlight Clear www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09642P1XQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the suggestion. All of my factory headlights actually some sort of clear coat on it that flaked. I haven't had luck with the Opti-coat ceramic before so that's why I ended up doing it this way instead and its been good. I've done it to all 5 of my cars and I believe people get different results if you go through automatic car washes, not prep well, etc. What brand ceramic do you like using?

By not using a certified clearcoat with a UV protection, Headlights will start to degrade much sooner!!! There are many brands to choose from?? Not forgetting the after care, After driving in heavy rain or washing the car by hand or auto car wash I have found After trying different brands of headlight polish, Turtle wax headlight restorer with uv protection works best!! When the headlight is clean and dry a small amount on a micro fibre cloth rubbed evenly over each lens, Left for 5min's then lightly buffed works wonders!!🤔🇬🇧☝️

Hey man, if you want to be a prick about everything, you should make your own videos and not be a keyboard hero anywhere on the web. It's people like you who give people mixed feelings in forums, product reviews and videos so like I said if you're such an "expert" you should make your own videos instead of looking at mine and criticizing it incorrectly. There's constructive criticism and helpful comments from one's experience but yours is just asinine as I followed the same steps on 5 of my cars which are meticulously taken cared of and the headlights are still good to date. If you're so smart, then explain why SprayMax, a paint company, released a 2K paint (part number: 3684068) specifically for headlights, which I used. Maybe take the time to read SprayMax's TDS as well so you can learn a bit. I had to take my headlights to such a low grit to take out the micro-cracks, or crazing you see on many old vehicles; you can with higher grit but unless you want to be sanding all day, I'd stick with my low grit and incrementally move up. Removing the headlights is totally necessary for me as I am not wanting to cover the whole vehicle of overspray and or have to tape around the edges of the headlight so that it is easier to access every crevice, no accidently mess up my paint and be able to clean the residue after this process so that is up to you. If I told you to jump off a cliff in this video, that choice is for you as well. I did purchase the 3M headlight kit since it provides you with their perfect grade 500, 800, 1000 and 3000 as it seems to be the best from my experience; the only other sand paper I used was below 500 which again, was to remove the crazing. I agree that 2K can permanently damage your polycarbonate lenses but only if you apply it incorrectly. If you took the time to research, you will see that the first layer needs to be very thin and flashed before a heavier coat goes on as stated by the TDS; this is to prevent further crazing of the lenses. I'll be looking for your expert video in a few days since you know so much. By the way, two things. It is "you're" and not "your" and furthermore is one word. You might want to research that as well as your headlight restoration. Cheers

I agree dont use 2k clear

Using inflammatory language sums up your bad attitude regarding which method to use!! I don't have to make a video? It's already been done many times on other utube channels by 3M themselves and other pro experts, And the general public, All 2k products are much the same great for there intended use IE car panels ect, The 2k headlight clearcoat you mentioned you still run the risk of damage long term, All my presant knowledge comes from "The headlight restoration pro "Who makes his living from his mobil restoration business and can't afford to make mistakes!!! 🤔🇬🇧☝️By the way 3m restoration kit doesn't include 1000 grit?? p500 p800 p3000 trizact???