Always!

I did, but after i already created and uploaded this video. I didnt know how to do it at first, until i watched "the technology man"'s tutorial

Try recalibrating the bed stepper motor.

@@BruhBronxy It took me a minute watching it to figure it out. It was because in the instructions they say to tighten the bed all the way down. This actually lowered the bed lower than it should have to where it was hitting the back stepper motor and not hitting the limit switch back there first. So the grinding was it trying to keep moving but because the bed was too low, it was hitting. I had replaced the springs to stiffer springs, but they were a little shorter, so I believe that's why it was hitting if lowered too low. I may get some spacer blocks or something to put under them to raise the bed up just a little so I can tighten it down all the way. But for now I just have to remember not to tighten it all the way and work my way up from there. Thanks for the suggestion though. I appreciate you trying to help.

Youre welcome!

At normal speed, theres not much difference that are noticeable. But as the speed goes up, thats where you will see the difference.

You can do that by using Moonraker plugin from Cura marketplace, either select a check box to print immediately after upload, or take full control of Sonic Pad from a web browser entering its IP address on local network, if you don't want to print right away.

Hi! I dont have any experience using LW-PLA, but i dont see why it would not work the Sonic Pad. Unless, printing LW requires to print at low speed.

Hi! I picked the one that matches my main board. The most certain way to check it, is by opening the bottom cover of your printer and taking a look at the mainboard

Thank you very much!

Yes, it comes with the SP👍

Thanks for your feedback ! Just order mine, but i have a last question 😅 i wanted to known if i have to change my slicer setting (increase print speed, i use Prusa) for print faster, or if the Pad will do it by itself. Thanks ✌️

@@anthonyguenat8174 i would recommend using the profiles made by creality to work with Sonic Pad. You can download them from their website. If you want to continue using prusa, you can just use the creality profiles as a guide to adjust your prusa profiles. So you'll have an idea on how to sey your speed, acce, etc.

As of now, the Sonic Pad does not support the laser module. But, switching to stock firmware and back to sonic is easy and quick. If you already have the firmwares save in an sd card, it only takes 20 seconds maybe to switch

Ok. Thanks for your answer!

@@pde9165 It depends on the engraver you have for your Ender machine. I just setup the Laser Module kit which is the 5w laser with the 'L-Bracket' that fixes to the extruder. This one comes with it's own processor called the 'Creality Falcon' which you plug into your computer to send the job from laser GRBL to the Falcon processor to the laser and you disconnect the X, Y and Z axis' and replace them with the wire that come from the falcon brain. With this I was able to run the Sonic Pad with my printer for 3d printing and the Laser Module kit with the Falcon processor for engraving without having to flash between Marlin and Klipper just to use your engraver. Hope this helps.

3d print it

Where did you get the STL?

Yes i removed my stock display and bracket. Put em in a drawer😅

ENDER 3 S1 x2 ENDER 3 S1 PRO ENDER 3 V2 ×4

@@chriss1671 Thank you. I'll wait to see if the add the CR-10 printers.

They have just added: Ender-3 Pro Ender-5 Plus Ender-3 Max Ender-3 S1 Plus CR-10 Smart CR-10S Pro V2 CR-10 V3

With the Sonic Pad in mind, which means you want speed, i would go with S1 or S1 pro because of direct drive and the abl is really good feature too. But you can get the v2's and should work also as they are in the list of supported printers. If theres a micro center near you, you can grab one for $99 if im not mistaken

@@chriss1671 Thank you. That's helpful. Would you ever see the need for the Creality Official Water Cooling for the Sprite HotEnd?

@@shrimperlincs3395 honestly for me, the water cooler is just for show. I mean its not like a CPU in computers that decreases performance when its too hot. In 3d printers, maybe in the future, when printers are printing in super speed. But at the moment, i dont see any benefits from it. Unless you have extra cash, and just wanted to maximize the upgrades of your printer.

The water cooling is handy if you are wanting to print something that requires a heated enclosure because you can have the radiator outside the enclosure. With fans in a heated enclosure you'll just be blowing hot air onto the heat break. Not sure I would trust the creality fittings though. Also, your best bet is to buy an ender 3 v2 and upgrade it with the dual z axis, cr touch, enomaker spring steel pei bed, and sprite pro extruder. You basically end up with an s1 pro for about $150 less than buying an s1 pro, and you get to learn your machine inside and out by doing the upgrades!

@@john_jacob_jingleheimerschmidt Very helpful!

For the price, its really worth it specially for people who doesnt want to go through all the hassles of finding a raspberry pi, installing of screen, printing a case, and headache from all the setup and reasearch just to make it work. Plus it the sonic pad looks good and very responsive. Plug and play almost👍

I just ordered it and they shipped it the following day

@@svenop nice! Expect 7 to 10 business days, if its coming from China

@@chriss1671 mine shipped from CA, took 4 days to get to NY via FedEx

It depends on what you are printing. For smaller pieces, for example a benchy, you will save around half the time. For bigger prints, you can save more time because the printer will have enough time to accelerate. Im still learning to use klipper. Im sure people who has more experience can further tune theirs.

It must be firmly mounted, it senses vibrations and movement and velcro isn't a solid method of mounting.

Enjoy!!

Hello! Stl file is inside the flash drive👍

@@chriss1671 ohh do you mean when you create the flash SD card ? If so after setting up the sonic pad I actually deleted and formatted the actual card…

Here you go. I uploaded them to thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:5671208

@@chriss1671 Awesome!! thank you... I'm downloading it now

You can do that by using Moonraker plugin from Cura marketplace, either select a check box to print immediately after upload, or take full control of Sonic Pad from a web browser entering its IP address on local network, if you don't want to print right away.

@@Dimsumlezako what I'm trying to find out is once I'm done in Cura, will it export the gcode file to the sonicpad via a usb, thumbdrive, sd card, or wifi? And will the laptop or computer need to stay running during the print or will it be able to be shut down?

Not 100% sure, but i think it will work, but you have to do extra steps of compiling your printer's file

@@chriss1671 thank you