Soon he will start making processors in his basement.

Awesome! 20um puts you at about 1968 for the technology node, only a couple of shrinks away from the Z80 in 1974/6um 😄

You and Applied Science have some of the most sophisticated machines I can ever imagine at home(Or studio maybe)!

I'm a photographer and have used the lens you are currently using. Its cheap, but not great quality, and is known for soft images. Modern day lenses are a lot sharper. Also a bigger aperture (low number) is great, but most lenses suffer from edge sharpness in photo's. Getting a modern F2.8 and stopping down to F4 or F5.6 would fix most edge sharpness problems tho :)

Awesome results, congrats! The failed parameter graveyard at <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="559">9:19</a> is very relatable 💀 Can't wait to see the next version, 10um should totally be doable without any major changes I think! (also the sponsor segue made me actually lol, very nice 😄)

There is one thing: if you use a photographic lens and want to focus violet light (I am not even talking about UV, here), the lenses will never be quite as well-corrected as they are for visible light. Most photo lenses will also rapidly become opaque below 400 nm, because the flint elements do not transmit much light anymore; also most optical cements will fluoresc below 350 nm. I would suggest using a Schneider Kreuznach Componon-S 5.6/150, which is a symmetric repro lens. It has been designed with violet/UV applications in mind. I had a look at some measurements and at 360 nm, the lens still has a tolerable transmission of 33%, but below 340 nm, less than 10% of light comes through.

Can I recommend one video for the Advanced Tinkering to watch? "Poor Man's Clean Room" by Tech Ingredients goes through and talks about how to properly clean lenses (not saying you did anything wrong - just a lot of good information contained within the video). The Tech Ingredients guy goes in-depth on how to clean lenses properly.

the reason is that the led is not an isotropic source, meaning it project most of its light forward, and less and less as the angle increase. In addition, mask plane is, well, a plane, while the surface of costant power is a sphere, meaning you have a drop in power intensity on the mask plane proportional to the square of the distance from the center. To have a homogeneous illumination the industrial standard is a couple of microlens arrays, coupled with a collimator.

That is so cool you’re creating titanium, glass, microfiche

How good is Huygen 👌

Bildung mit dem Lorenz👍

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="472">7:52</a> i very highly recommend using a high quality coffee filter for this step and NOT a paper towel! high quality paper coffee filters are designed to absorb moisture and not leave behind any particles of lint or broken fibers like a paper towel might. coffee filters with 90% IPA is the go to for all computer builders for cleaning lapped surfaces since the dawn of time lol. i can get the nastiest, crustiest heat spreader to literally shine like a mirror with just a coffee filter and some 90% propanol

Can't believe I already lost the game just from the thumbnail. But now so have you.

I'm not sure how I got here but thanks youtube, this was a great video.

This is next level microfilm! Just imagine having Ti microfilm that could last longer than the 500 years at best that current microfilm could last

Seeing videos like this kind of excites me for the future. Who knows, maybe things will be better with people doing projects like this in home labs.

this is the kind of thing you'd fill a time capsule with, awesome

this work just got you a new patreon; well done!

Videos like this make me giddy with excitement, I can't wait for you to get some transistors on a wafer done!

Love the Shrek script text :). Also, it's amazing how much detail you can get out of the photoresist! I would totally expect it to peel off big chunks of the text!

About that hotspot, there are flashlights there you can set the focal point to see the chip surface perfectly projected to the wall^^ edit: but that is only one part of LED hotspot (look at the datasheet) they have 120° emit angle but only 70% of that light 70-90° of the beam and in center the most, you need a lens^^

Well done my friend!! I’m excited to see where you take this 👌

All my preferred channels are referencing each other! Awesome! So much knowledge accessible to everyone!

Pretty cool stuff! Keep in mind that depth of field and sharpness are not the same, every lens has a sweet spot, often around 3-5 f-stops down from fully open aperture. To small aperture introduces diffraction, and with your flat samples deep focus is not needed. Paint focus points in the corners to check that your focal plane is level with your surface, you can add set-screws to your holder to level it. good luck!

Just incredible, awesome work

Quite impressive!

this is so freaking cool man. the victory dance is well deserved! bravo on an awesome project.

Phenomenal work! Very impressive!

really amazing!

Very nice results. Commenting for the algorithm!

This is such an amazing process. The time and effort is outstanding ✌️

Very very cool!

Excellent choice of text. :D

Thanks!

Another great video, keep up the good work.

Nice Video!

Congratulations!

Fascinating 🙂. Thank you 👍🇳🇱

Wahnsinn, super cool! Greetings from Austria, keep doing what you're doing :)

You're the man! 😎

dude, im speechless

TTArtisan makes a f0.95 35mm lens and a f0.095 50mm lens in case you want to try that out (they are both around 200€) if you want to try that out. Also zoom lenses are known to be less good with diffraction than fixed focal length lenses. Althought you might wanna test with a well known 50mm prime lens at f1.4 or f1.2 since they are known to be razor sharp.

Pretty cool, did you try using DLP displays? Now days they are more common available, since they are used in 3d printers, also the resolution is reasonable high

Awesome!

No way, exactly what I need for a project, you are a true hero!

Printed circuits on glass has infinite possibilities.

Great video. For the light source, you could try and get your hands on a deuterium lamp. Maybe those would work better as a point source. Just subbed btw 😁

Have you yet considered making printed digitizer screens for custom fitting any non-touch display? The transparent tracings on said digitizers use a very thin lithographic layer of Indium Nitride. Incidentally, that same material is used in IR blocking filters. In other words, if you view a digitizer and/or IR cutoff filter with a wideband digital camera and an IR illuminator, you can see the etchings in the digitizer. The IR blocking filters look opaque as well. Footnote: removing the IR blocking filter from any electronic camera allows the detector to also image IR. In other words, any electronic camera can be easily modified into a wider band detector. All regular digital cameras have this InN filter built in stock OEM. Very simple to modify. It also works rather well within the UV regime below 400nm as well. Happy tinkering.

You can substitute the fresnel lens with a diffuser from a screen. Since you are using a camera lens, you shouldn't need the collimated light. Though you need to have the transparency and the last diffuser layer at the same plane, ideally at the same surface

nice project - have you looked at the light path in an old-style overhead projector - because this is essentially what you created here. There also the Fresnel lens projects the "mask" down into the objective lens. But there you will also find the condenser optics which was used to create the equivalent to a point source from the filament of the halogen light bulb - the same type of optics should be suitable for an LED of the type you have as well.

At this point you might want to consider that even with a perfect masking process, light projection will eventually leave aberrations on very sharp and tiny details such as those of typography. They will appear kind of rounded. Lithography processes that relied on light projection eventually encountered this very problem, and their solution was to create special typographic fonts that would mitigate light aberration to increase sharpness in very minute details. I find your project fascinating, similar to the process that was created for microfilm documents which catches my interest for...reasons.

Probably surface tension from photoresist+titanium. Great video. Make a pocket version. I believe in you.

you should look at how optics are utilized for silicon wafer exposure in chip manufacturing.. start with a collimated light source, pass that through your image, and then rather than directly focus it onto the target, bounce it through a series of concave first surface mirrors. This will further condense the light, and therefore your pattern. The real bonuses here, is you save space because you can bounce the light back, and fourth, getting smaller, and more concentrated with each bounce, and therefor can build an enclosure to completely isolate the light source from all other sources, and any non-collumated light can be absorbed by the mat black interior of the enclosure. The other additional bonuses are that your developing stage can also be completely isolated from other light sources, and rather than adjust the target, you can adjust the mirrors to really dial the image in. Another point i would like to make, is using a single LED like that isn't the best approach, as they are made of several smaller LED's, and a phoshorus gel is applied over them. The best way is to start with a clean source of light, but if you can't, multiple sources of light, so many, as to swamp the the collumator, and even out the overall intensity. This will also have an added bonus of cutting down the exposure time, as more light is able to reach the target at a higher intensity. You may also look into photoresist that work with higher wavelengths, but that may be beyond the scope of this video.

Awesome results. I wonder though if the contrast in your setup is actually limited by diffraction. Maybe doing some tests on the optics would be interesting.

Neat!

I would have gone for an M42 or T-mount for the lens so I could try different lenses, but have a lens mount that was relatively easy to cobble-together. Zooms from the manual-focus era aren't that great for sharpness, so the ability to just swap-in a prime of a different focal length instead of zooming might improve performance. Also you need a 'ground-glass' (which might actually be acid etched) for focus. But what you've done is the standard way to focus a large-format camera (which tend to be the most primitive like what you have here.) If you can find new replacement ground glass for something like a 4x5 view camera you can probably get a better focus screen.

Hint Use a optical microspe do print the masks They come with pretty good light condensers. All you have to do is use the Primostar the other way around.

For a little more price, you can get a 395nm laser (instead of LED). It's diameter is lot smaller than the LED's, and might obviate the "double diffuser" part.

The hotspot seems to be mostly the LED array, the type of LED you have there has a lens that directs the light at a larger angle. If you want more of a point source you need one without a lens. The LED in this case is made up of several LEDs not one, which is what you are seeing when you turn it down. Though I think you main issue is the lens not the array, the array is very dense and should not make a difference. of you want high uniform intensity it might make sense to get some WCLSP packaged LEDs and make a PCB for a dense array. You also want to make sure to use a constant current driver for higher uniformity between the individual LED chips. A series with tightly controlled binning would also further help keep it consistent. Cree and Osram are good sources there.

Gut gemacht 👍! Mach bitte weiter so! Subscribed.

breaking taps has some awesome content.

Can't you use mirrors for the enlarger, instead of lenses?

Could you adapt a Köhler illumination setup as used in microscopes for your light source? You use a diaphragm and a movable lens to produce a uniform flat illumination, then project that with a better lens than the Fresnel lens?

you can use a light tunnel from a projector assembly, it will make light uniform

Amazing content! The only comment I could make is that the brush in the lift off might be quite rough? Have you had issues with broken routes (not that important for just image printing, but if you start doing circuits with small scales it might be an issue)? In our process we actually use a plastic pipette and continually blow air bubbles onto the surface while lifting off (we do gold and aluminium on silicon, so maybe the adhesion is a bit different, I have never worked with a glass surface)

that is a MONSTER kernel of corn, holy shit

Have you thought about trying direct laser writing? I did not use it for photolithography, but got good results processing polymers with an monomode laser diode + collimation and a 10x microscope lense. Monomode laser diodes would also make for a good point source of light for your current setup.

I wonder if the rounded characters is because the corners are being mechanically removed with the excess material when brushed off. Even a perfect mask, I would think, would have some tear out on more fragile features like corners.

Fucking nice, glad you finally managed to get this working well, dunno if you took inspiration from my comment or more people but that doesn't matter, honestly happy this project is moving forward. You could probably use some sort of a UV Night vision specialized optic (for UV tubes), really expensive but will probably work the best, also getting a more specific single wavelength source of UV will also be better, or at least a filter for that specific wavelength. LEDs usually give out a few different wavelengths instead of a single one and will cause some abberations since the lens definitely isn't made for UV, I know that the transmission probably isn't that important as contrast but my guess is that some of the non-transmissed light is also reflected instead of just absorbed, thus leaving you with lower contrast and stray light. Try to look for quartz glass lenses instead of borosillicate glass lenses, quartz glass has a much higher transmission of UV than borosillicate, it's just more fragile and harder to work with so not used as much. Also, you probably don't even need a photography lens, my guess is that with your set up and a single wavelength of light, literally ANY high definition optical lens will work since abberation won't be a problem, you could probably just buy a cheap large sensor lens (olympus? maybe just a better magnifying glass lens?) and be able to focus the image on the entire slide. Still waiting for some fine art to be made with this, world of possibilites with anodizing titanium.

Victory dance!!

Yay we get a happy dance! Congratulations! I'm curious though why don't you use an ultrasonic cleaner?

Me when the professor says we can use one 3x5 card on the final

You should be able to use a laser pointer and lens to project the slides onto the wall

I suggest editing out the timer alarm noise (or make it quieter)

According to my prediction based on the speed of improvements, we will see a working silicone IC in 3 videos

Hello, you are making amazing content, I have been fascinated by vacuum technology for a long time. Your channel and everything on it really interested me. Could you please share with me some information about your vacuum chamber? I'm interested in as much as possible, pipe size, wall thickness... Regards. @Advanced Tinkering

Would this technique work to create glass pcbs? Would i still need a hi vacuum sputter if all i wanted was copper on the glass?

Neat

Curious about dispersion -- have you verified that your optical path is in focus at the UV being exposed? Setting up with a frosted (etched) glass slide, stained with fluorescent dye, might be a good way to test that.

@<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="770">12:50</a> I'm a little confused...rotary vane pumps can get down to 10^-3 or 10^-4 mbar, if you are at 10^-2 mbar for this experiment (or is that just because of introducing the Argon? and otherwise it'd be far lower?), why bother with the turbomolecular pump? That's more to get down to 10^-5 mbar and below.

Regarding the problem of the LED(<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="240">4:00</a>) thoes LEDs have built in lenses, and this tresults in the hot spot observed. Try using LED's without lenses, eighter remove them, or buy ones without them, or maby you could even salvage some from a broken(or working) LED light bulb if you were to be in a hurry

You should do halftones for photos

Do a mask without the diffusers, invert that mask. Put the inverted mask infront of the next exposure. It will now balance out.

You can make lenses for telescopes using titanium sputtering

Dude, you are insane... Here I am just trying to anodize this damn shit, and make it all pretty like I should probably give up, nah?

Would this work with 3d printing resin? You could make some very small objects.

Could you put something on the slide to focus then take it off?

Is this a home lab? That’s easily over $200k worth of equipment. I’m kind of jealous.

Dein selbstgebauter Overheadprojektor ist wahrscheinlich das deutscheste was ich diese Woche gesehen habe lol

the potassium video will be uploaded here or elias? thank you!

I am confused, as this problem had been solved long time ago with photography (see millions of microfiche archives in local libraries)

So, you needed to use an overhead projector in reverse?

Ich arbeite bei Pfeiffer Vacuum wie kommt es das man sich für Zuhause eine splitflow und eine duo leistet günstig ist das jedenfalls nicht. Aber cool was du machst

he literaly canibalised a meopta...do you have the head? I really need the head for mine (the light source) as I wanna do some enlarging

would you be willing to make a mandelbrot set?

Wait isn't photolithography the technique used to etch silicon wafers?

You should make mechanical watch faces !

"WE already have microfiche at home. Microfiche at home:"

If you set the lens at F8 you don't deal with diffraction or softness of F2.8 or F2.0

Wow, how small you made the text is just ridiculous! lol 😂 It would be even cooler if you could go even smaller and spell out words using individual atoms!