Yes, hopefully never need it but it only takes a few drops to go down onto the terminals and battery and bulkhead are toast :-). An extra level of protection.

Thanks

Yes that could help, the biggest problem is a grain of sand that can get in grove and cause a dribble of water into / on the terminals.

Absolutely, its wet out :-)

Thanks my friend

Thanks for watching.

The zagg works really well, just to be clear its in 2 pieces, one for the display and the other for the keypad. On the usb cap silicon grease should not be used as its too sloppy a fit and the grease would make the threads jump with reduced friction. Did this once and could never get the cap tight again.

Ok, thanks, I'll have to keep an eye out those threads on mine. Taking a closer look at the USB port, (male threads) it has a flat on the top side to keep the port indexed while being tightened. The teflon tape would be ineffective for a sealing those threads, but would bandaid fix a poorly fitting "loose" cap. The port and cap look to be made from a Zytel type of material that holds its dimensions well under different stresses. Perhaps you received a defective cap?

Yes your right about the key slot on the port. What I did was once the O ring was in place, I put a thin sliver of plastic down the length of the slot to fill out the gap then used PTFE tape around it. Its a long story but I have had at least 6 handle units and twice caps, all have been the same and very loose. Also several friends have had the same thing, even a brand new machine from early march this year.

Wow! Never heard of this cap as being a issue for leak problems, just the original style O-ring for the battery seat. My CTX is

Unfortunately had lots of issues with usb cap. Maybe the latest have it sorted now (hopefully). But do keep an eye on it and I would put the additional O ring to seal the gap between the cap and the large nut and that will stop sand getting into the threads.

Hi, I use self amalgamating tape.

Sorry Steve in lateness of reply, YT did not send me notification of your message. The older style battery is ok but I would suggest you use a larger thickness of seal. If you can get a 2.5mm it will put much more pressure onto the matting faces and help prevent a leak.

Good job, it will be much more secure for it.

no, it easy to remove and leaves no residue. The back of film is only very slightly tacky but you spray on a provided liquid onto contact surface which drys in a few hours and it grips really well and under water without any problems. I have had them on for years at a time.

I block off the top middle where the bottle caps are and the bottom right where iron resides. I use a 4 tone ferrous program.

thanks for info and happy hunting love your videos mine yet to find gold hard on norfolk beaches need a storm

Thanks, its out there, just got to keep looking :-)

I have made my own, not sure there are any manufacturers out there that do such a thing, Its an M12 8 pin plug that is used on end. These are available from component suppliers but you need to short out 2 pins on the plug to ensure that the detector silences the loudspeaker and recognises headphones correctly.

@@SandyToesDetecting Thank you for your reply. Can you share where to purchase the M12 8 plug? Also the pin wiring for shorting out the loud speaker?

@@brettdore2635 what part of world are you ? RS components, Farrnel, tme etc

@@SandyToesDetecting 🇺🇸

@@brettdore2635 mouser electronics should have them

They are mals surfphones,