Glad it was of assistance!

Certainly! Good luck!

Thank you for the tip! I ended up changing my resin recently as well. Before the resin change, I noticed the soft water would only 5-7 days.

I’ve replaced every part on my softner and I still can’t figure out why my tank is full of water. My last option is to clean out the resin in the tank. Do you think this will help. I’m about done paying for parts. Over $600 in parts and I’m about done. I could have bought a whole other unit.

Nice upgrade. Glad it was simple fix. I have had rock sediment in the salt I purchased end up in my brine tank. I've never seen plastic before but wouldn't rule out that it may have gotten in there from one of the salt bags you used.

@@pibblesnbits It was more of a hard plastic shard, white in color. I don't think it came from a salt bag. I didn't replace that one white valve piece like you did. Hopefully, it is not from that. The system is working, so I am not going to futz with it any more until I have to.

Hmm, I can't say for sure and would need more information here. Was everything working fine before your replaced the resin? When you run a test cycle, does the system correctly fill and empty the brine tank? There is a float valve in the brine tank that can be adjusted to manage the water level in the tank. It resides inside the large tube inside the brine tank. If you raise the height of the float, the water level should stop at that new height. If the water level remains below the float valve height after you run a cycle, then try adjusting your settings. On the settings there is an option for adjusting your back wash (BUU) and brine rinse (BR) times. Set them to 10 and 60 respectively. This should be a good starting point and give your tank an ample amount of time to empty and refill.

When ordering the Resin, I ordered it from AFWFilters. They were great to work with and shipped the product quickly. I ordered Purolite C-100E Cationic Resin and used 3/4 of the 1 cubic foot bag. Hope this helps!

Hey there, I'll try my best to help. From my understanding, the water level in the brine tank should be adjustable. From what I have read, the goal is to have the water level sit at just a couple of inches above the top of the salt in the brine tank. (you can achieve this by adjusting the amount of salt or the water level in the tank). In the model in the video, you can adjust the water level by adjusting the height of the float in the brine tank. The float is located inside the tube in the brine tank and can be lifted out to be adjusted. The higher the float is set, the higher the water level. As for the bypass valve, they have seals inside and can get stuck with age, especially if the valve isn't used in a while. I had a similar issue with my unit and had to push the valve over both hands and a lot of force to get it to kick over. If you do decide to force the valve, there is a risk that it may start to leak. I'd have a towel ready and just be sure that you know how to shut off the water to the house. To be extra safe, you may even want to shut off the water before pushing the valve over. There is a chance that shutting off the water to the house and opening a faucet to release the pressure in the pipes may even make it easier to kick over the bypass valve. Once you get the valve to kick over I'd move it back and fourth a couple of times, that will make it easier to move in the future. I remember that my valve leaked a few drips while kicking over but once fully engaged in or out of bypass mode, the dripping stopped. Hope this helps!

I will upload things for the better good of society. Just helping people out.

Personally, I have had good luck with Ebay. My understanding is that Culligan wont sell directly to consumers when it comes to parts. When ordering the Resin, I ordered it from AFWFilters. They were great to work with and shipped the product quickly. I ordered Purolite C-100E Cationic Resin and used 3/4 of the 1 cubic foot bag. Hope this helps!