Great demo. Lots of food for thought. Thanks for the time and effort, you guys.

I really enjoyed this video and it was not too long at all. I find videos like these very therapeutic for some reason and look forward to enjoying many more of your videos. Thank you!

Great demo. I ordered my Saw mill you’ve been a great help when I cut my first log.

Great tutorial. Just like I was there learning how to do it. Thanks!

The amount of wood you make within 28 minutes (while explaining and show us how to do it is amazing) the amount of wood you could make 2x4 4x4 2x6 2x10 would save you thousands upon thousands with the price of wood now a days! That was amazing 👏 thanks for all the info !

Just ran across you Video. It was not too long. Very well done. Thanks. I’m getting ready to buy my second wood miser. Built one log cabin , now getting ready to build another. .

First time I've seen you guys.I'll be watching more.good job.michigan.

Those are some neat units. Thanks for the video.

Wonderful job, excellent job, thanks for sharing

Tank you for the long video.. everybody stops right when they just take the bark off nice to see the whole process..

Good informative video. Thank you!

Great real-time informative video. Thank you

Very good video in real time. That’s getting ur done!

I don't know why I watch these as I don't have any trees within cooee that could be cut down. But I really enjoyed this one and agree with Mark below they are very satisfying for some reason. Good camera work by your helper and am going to subscribe. Thank you so much.

It's so satisfying to watch this thing work. I can hardly wait to get one, Good Lord willing.

Just a great Job on saw mill . . .video . . .must be great to cut all your custom cut wood on site.. livin the dream

I like how much you explain. I have just retired, and looking for a property where I can set up a craftsman wood shop, complete with saw mill. Inspired, thanks.

Great demo. Great job

Awesome video and commentary, thank you Sir.

Awesome video and explanations. I am Just a newbie in learning.

Excellent info and video!

The cart you made me is absolutely beautiful The wood grain after sanding is gorgeous.

Excellent video my friend!

Oh, that sawmill!!! Love it!

From Homer, Alaska; I'm impressed and ready for a new hobby!

Well done, thanks for the tour.

Great video, a live video in real time, nice. One thing I've learned- when trying to keep your cant square to the bunks/blade, position your first clamp a little loose, as in, don't drive it home yet. Then you can lift or lower the cant to make it square with your other clamp. Just put it a little above the stop or below the stop to make it square. then tighten up the first clamp. No peavy required! I hope that makes sense... lol God Bless you too!

Thanks for the info. I am really wanting a basic, functional mill. I learned a bit. I think I will have one under an insulated roof. Partly to keep the mill nice, and allow me to work in nasty weather. I think I would extend the saw dust chute enough, so I would not have in the walk area, and I would want the walkway smooth. Perhaps a fan set up , to blow saw dust away from me. Red cedar can be a bit hard on the lungs.

Loved the video. Thanks for sharing

Hello my new friend I’m a Homestead channel from Louisiana looking to by the same Mill . I ran my dads 40 hyd wood Mizer For Years Great Saw mill thanks for sharing.

I love watching these.

great video, I am looking at one for the first time by my self. Cost of a 2x4 here in Ak went from a 2.50 to like 9 bucks and it is a 200 mile drive to go get it. That being said I do have tons of experience of a 100 hp mill in Denver and one up in Frazer Colo that the company I worked for had. also had some twin blade turners too. But now just want a little guy. :) My place has thousands of trees so long as the lumber prices stay high I could have it pay for its self.

As a Woodmizer LT40 owner I would like to suggest you start sawing from the small end. You can find the cant size by multiplying the diameter under bark of the small end by point 700. Do this before you start cutting.

Nice video, and not to long, informative good job

Inspirational thanks great video

Great video good information Thanks for sharing

Should’ve waited till he had more experience before he made a video, you can tell he’s still learning and still got a lot to learn! But he made a video to everyone how they do it up there on the mountain 😂😂😂😂

I like the video well informative keep inspiring

Great demonstration.. thanks

That thing cuts like butter!

Cool! The good Lord did us a big favor providing trees.

I always wondered about how square they come out. Yours is the first video Ive seen where you actually measure the angle as you make the cant.

Thanks for the great video.

One suggestion...think about a grapel on the front end loader... I thought for a second I was gonna see you wearing the log when you lifted the bucket while driving. The guy I saw have this happen to him didnt live. Been thinking about one of these mills. Good job displaying how it functions

I would make 28" or so vertical extensions on your forks or bucket with 20" or so forward projecting extension's , to prevent accidental log rolling down your tractor loader, visiting you in the drivers seat, that would ruin your day ! Nice video on the sawmill !

Couple suggestions you can take or leave; spend a bit of time to look at your log, rather than make two skim cuts, take more on first pass, your blades last longer and for time cutting you get more usable wood, look at the pith(center of log) vs comparing the diameters to decide if you are going to level one end-it makes a difference in wood grain and strength of wood you produce, once you roll your cant for the next cut you can use the position of your clamp to influence the perpendicularity of your cant instead of clamping it tight then fighting that pressure with your cant hook for slight tweeks, try using your handle to travel vs pushing, it can be just as fast but more importantly it is more consistent, you can get away with pushing soft woods but you'll notice a quality of cut issue on hardwoods pushing it through, lastly, slow down, think fast, move slower, you'll end up being more efficient, you'll re adjust less, and you'll enjoy more. Have fun!

Hearing protection is a must with these. Also you need a proper squirt bottle for this operation. I think its Zep that makes a fairly descent one available it Lowes or Home Depot.

Great video, thanks!

Nice work!

Good advice , thanks, I'm learning.

When put blade on or off, take saw head to end of track. Don't have to step in and out of track.

Hey don't feel bad about putting a long video out that was far more informative than the most ads

Nice looking mill. I think I would may with the wide model.

Parabéns, Belo trabalho virando a tora para tirar pranchas limpas . Rio de Janeiro

Great video, thank you

Great Video

Good vid!

Very informative thank you

Awesome video.Thanx

Ill be 100% honest....I have no idea why im watching this but Im enjoying it lol

Hey, i saw you were standing up to pick the log up. Heres a tip for you. The very top of your bucket is flat and parallel with the bottom of your bucket. So whatever the top of the bucket is doing the bottom is too. Hope it helps out.

For traction/footing I'd prefer the sawdust discharge on the off-side, I think.

Awesome video dude I'm looking into a northern acreage in Saskatchewan with a machine knowing these things beforehand is a good thing

I am not an expert, but I have worked a small mill. I think one of the things I would do, is have a couple yard sticks, clear lacquered. And give the tape measure a break. I hear that thing slamming home, and wonder it is not broken. I am also thinking it might be nice to have a 24 ft section of mobile home frame, with tandem axles, for smoother ride on the road. I would be taking a good look at that power head and think up a cover for it. I like to protect nice things.

LT40 owner here since 1991......over a million board feet sawed. Here are some observations that will help you. First off, I'm glad I don't own THAT model. Mine was the lower end at the time, being non hydraulic (which you really DON'T need by the way unless you saw a lot out on the road), but it does have the 12v electric drive, (+ head up/down and blade guide in/out) meaning I don't have to push it down the log. Not that it is that hard to push it down the log, but the time you spend pushing where I just put it in GO, is time you can spend removing slabs or lumber while the saw saws, way increasing production on a one man show. You'll learn after a while you don't need to clamp it. Only time I use my clamp is IF the log wants to roll away from the dogs. Once I get two 90 degree faces, I never clamp again.....log ain't going anywhere.....the blade keeps it tight to the little nubs. You're working too hard at this. And WM screwed up with that dog design.....with the wheels at the top, the log doesn't fit flush to the dog like on the other mills....mine I don't need a square, the dog is dead 90 to the bed. Any crack of daylight between the log face and the dog means the log is out of square to the bed rail. I'd be tempted to remove the wheels and grind an angle on the top of the dogs to make it like the older style.....save that work squaring. Another thing you're not in the habit of doing.....raise the blade slightly before you back the head up.....LOT of times a cant will arch either the ends up or the middle up as you saw and relieve the stress in the log (yellow poplar is THE worst about this)......you don't raise the blade, it will catch the end of the cant and strip it off the wheels. You should also saw some 6x6 cants out, and build yourself a log deck on the side you load from.....not only can you load a bunch of logs on it, saving time on/off the tractor, but you can put your boards to edge on it as well, rather than throw them off to the side to have to bend over and pick up again later. When you get into sawing larger stuff, like 2x10 or 2x12s, you back will thank you. Last, you need an SSQA adapter (ATI in New Holland Pa makes them for ANY tractor) on your tractor so you can quickly switch from bucket to forks....then buy a set of REAL forks, not those fool clamp on things. Those are not only award to use compared to real forks, they will eventually bend your bucket when you put enough pressure on them, and the load you can pick up is WAY reduced due to how far out in front of the bucket they sit. They might be OK for the person that rarely uses forks, but if you have a sawmill, your gonna USE forks.....get a good set. All this is stuff you'll figure out anyway, maybe this just gives you a heads up.

Great video!! Now that you have had your woodmizer for 4 years or so.. any additional advice feedback on mill? Maybe an update video😉

Good video Thanks!

Good video

It's nice making your own lumber isnt it. I know it does for me .I barely could hear you talking but it was bearable.

love it

NICE VIDEO

11:15 I love it when forestors become phylosophical. :-)

thank you, it was great to see it start to finish! when you throw the lever on the left side of the carriage just before you cut, is that a manual clutch? thanks!

I don't know if your being so through because of a video or because its still new to you. I trust the measure on the saw and see how much wood is left and go from there. I try for one clear side of wain and divots then sastrength

Good Stuff thanks

Park your tractor on side that you are working, place lumber onto forks to transport, better than flopping it on ground

I was wrong, a 2X4 is actually smaller. It measures 11/2 by 3 1/2 inches. They shaved another 1/8 of an inch since I was young. All the best, Edgar

Just a some common sense here, don't run your tractor wide open to do small things. the hydraulics run smoother at 1100 rpm verses 2200. should make it easier for you to load logs onto the platform without jerking the bucket. it will be safer and wont damage things this way. good video on the sawmill.

Great video. Have you ever used a green line laser module as an alignment tool ?

I like longer videos

You could use a dry grease to lube , less dust should stick to it VS wet or tacky lube.

I want a woodmizer and 50 acres to work

When yoi make one full turn and its 2 inches, does that allow for the kurf on the 2x6s?

Professionnel

How wide and long is that frame Sir

Good day. Do you use bi-metal blades or regular wood blades?

you could can got 2 more boards if you cut them 1.5" instead of 2"...do they shrink that much during drying?

Fantastc!

Dude it took so long to get that log from tractor to mill i just went and bought some 2x4s

Love the mill, do you cut your lumber a full 2”x 6” or like they do at the yards that 1-3/4”x 5-1/2” ?

If I had to do all that manuel flipping, cranking, pushing and slab tossing, I'd be burned out by lunch. TG for hydraulics!

Preciosa maquinita

How hard is it to find an acreage with wood/trees already established. Just curious, don't tell the town, but what state are you in and I assume that is oak, if different what wood? What would a homestead be in dollars now-a-day?

How many hp are your engine ? Nice video btw its fun to see a clip whos not edited. Now i can se how long it actually takes to mill

This is for anyone, when he says it's 6" X 10" does that mean 6 inches plus kerf? Or is it assumed that the kerf is gonna come out of the 2" per board? Thanks! Also, at 28:08-ish, he cranks the head up and the engine seems about to stall but it recovers - any idea why? I didn't see him touch throttle. Did I miss it? Thanks!

Bardzo fajny sprzęt.

Enjoyed your video, when being filmed try to remember that when you look away from the camera your voice can barely be heard.

Okay, I got questions! Lol Rolling the log on that fast really shook the frame. Will that not eventually lead to wracking it? When you first fire up to cut, I’ve always been told to let the blade run for a minute to warm it up and balance out the tension. Yes? No? You cleaned the bark for the first cut, but not the second cut? (Oversight?) How did you get five 2” cuts from a 10” cant? Was it actually 10 1/2” to start? Otherwise the bottom board would only be 6/4. When you were sawing down to 6” on the 4th side, you could have taken a 2” slab and gotten a 6th 2x6 plus a 2x4, no? Or was the 1” worth more to you? Very nice video, good camera work and explanation of everything! Wish I had pine logs that nice to play with! And of course the tractor... ha!

Level each log from the center at each end, use Toe boards or a jack to get the first flitch off each side so the center of the log will be in the center of the cant, Never set a cut surface on a raised toe board or jack, let it set flat on the bed.Work your way down to the top of your cant in any lumber thickness you can, set aside and edge them later.

Hey Tony. Great videos you put out. My LT15 is finally here in Maine. Think I saw you on forestry forum? You’re in NH too?