So as I did not miss the obvious because of your comparison of the blades I stated what you are doing wrong as you risk hurting yourself!But IF YOU WANT TO HURT YOURSELF AS YOU STATED IN YOUR VIDEO GO RIGHT AHEAD AND PUT YOURSELF IN FOR THE DARWIN

Haters with always be, Thanks for taking your time to show us this differences, Great job!

Different colours in the aluminum seem to look like you've tried to burn the oil off with a torch and it's created the " metal bluing method " awesome video

Saint Kenny, it’s “carbide”...not carbine. There’s no such metal as carbine.

Agree with entire comment. Especially, the last sentence

I agree alTHOUGH the differences BETWEEN the cuts he achieved ARE due to the differences in the blades. He compared a junk/stock, low tooth count blade with a QUALITY, high tooth count blade. But yes, the overall quality of both cuts? Yes....that's one of the worst miter saws ever made. The tool chatter is off the charts with this particular saw and the throw out is also off the charts. AND it's just an unstable saw. I LOVE Ridgid tools and have MANY and bought this saw and then returned it and got another one and returned it too. Absolute JUNK. EVEN WITH a quality blade, there's STILL too much throw out and vibration, even after letting it spin up FULLY, that if you were to build picture frames with it, the tops of all your miter cuts would not be touching. RIDICULOUS! Ridgid absolutely disappointed with this saw. Rushed, thrown together piece of junk.

You have a PhD in chop saws?

Thank you!

Yeah making a table, and making a good table are very different LOL. But having good work stiff tables and not having to rely on tables "off the shelf" allow you to up your entrepreneur game in small spaces. Ergonomics and working/production space SOOOOOO UNDERRATED. Making a table for the job your trying to accomplish makes work day so much smoother. Also finding good working tops, I have a teflon top on most of my tables so nothing sticks and I can cut and gouge and beat the table all day and its still a flat nice table. And the best part it's CHEAP! I literally have clients who want to come over just to use the giant tables! Try NOT to use them to store things and keep them clear. Good luck!

Do u have to reverse the blade

I do think Diablo is the best big box store brand but not top of the food chain when it comes to specialty blades.

I'm not sure if they are compatible or not. But I have used abrasive chop saws for steel parts. Assuming the abrasive disks would work in a wood miter saw.... they make alot of dust and smoke that likes to float everywhere and get all over your other stuff. (try to do it outside if you can) The cuts are not as nice and require alot of cleanup (deburring) and they take longer to cut through than carbide saws. I actually think abrasive saws are going out the window as carbide metal tooth dry saws keep getting cheaper both as an initial upfront investment and blade life compared to replacing abrasive disks. I think if you walk into a hardware store you can still get an abrasive saw off the shelf so people keep using them but slowly I am seeing more dry saws come into play. People rave about those evolution dry saws.

Using abrasive discs to cut aluminum is unsafe. Aluminum has a much lower melting temperature than steel and tends to melt, seeping seep into the pours of the disk. Enough molten metal and the disk will heat up beyond its capacity and could explode. Go with the blade. Or get a band saw.

If you buy the wood blade for cutting aluminum, the test is already over. The challenge was a generic wood blade everyone probably has, vs spending the money on a purpose built blade.

Iheart3dprinting yeah for sure, but that’s not my point. You’re not comparing apples with apples. The difference between a wood and an aluminium blade by design, is the rake angle of the teeth and the depth of the gullet. Wood blades have a positive rake and deeper gullet, aluminium blades have a negative rake and shallower gullet. So it’d be interesting to see how that feature difference affects the cut. To do this you need two blades of the same tooth count. Plenty of people have a fine crosscut wood blade which potentially does the job they want for aluminium.

I have never cut a solid piece of stock. But I have been cutting 80mmx80mm T-Slot (about 3x3 inches approx) and 80mmx40mm Tslot. These are thick slots as well so they are meant to be the max strength profile for their size. For reference, in the video those are *light 1.5x1.5" inches. When I cut the heavy duty thick extrusions the motor definitely slows down substantially. I feel it is the limitation of the saw itself combined with the blade diameter (12" in). The motor also smells hot (hot copper smell) on a long cut that I typically don't get when cutting wood or thinner extrusions. I believe it will cut it, but if it's a cut you will be making regularly I think the saw *might* burn out. I know they now have blades that cut actual steel on the smaller 7.25 inch miters, and those don't seem to have the same bog down issue, I assume because of the blade diameter. But then again if you don't have the smaller saw you may as well skip it and go straight to the evolution low RPM dry saws. Also last thing is on the thick materials lubrication is almost a must. It reduces cut time as well. Goodluck.

I disagree with that. Thin aluminum such as t-slot, c-channel and others can twist extremely easily. wood finish blades still have their teeth in alternating positions whereas aluminum or non-ferrous metal blades have straight teeth with alternating ones with less spacing. This does make a difference, especially noticeable on thinner material.

I think I am just asking a tool to do more than it was designed for. It works really well for wood and gets by for aluminum. I got a Fein Carbide Chop saw with a clamp and its a game changer.

That is interesting. I never ever thought about trying to do something from that angle. It might be worth putting effort into videos if people would send me tools... I know its 3 months old review but thank you. You got me thinking...

Best brand you use.. i from malaysia

Just basic bike chain oil. Obviously its not meant for cutting. But it still makes a noticeable difference in keeping the blades clean looking after each cut and evacuating the chips off the teeth. Also seemed to help make the cut smoother in general. You don't actually need the lubrication, but it does help the process. off camera I was taking an old tooth brush and dipping it in oil and going around the blade as well so the sides of the teeth and blade face are lubricated. Thanks for the comment.

No that blade pairs with the RPM of a wood saw.

That is fair, but I do think using a fine tooth blade is safer even if its not specialized for aluminum. The first time those large deep gullet teeth (general wood blade) grab the aluminum and spin it instead of cut it,... its enough to put some scare into you. A proper metal cutting saw should have some clamps which were sorta cheating on.

I worked for TMX aerospace. Cutting aluminum extrusion for Boeing. Much fancier machine. But we used wood blades to cut and wd40 lol I have done 100,000s of cuts. fine.

Maybe split the difference a 60t carbide. Cheaper than your fancy one and will cut much better than your 48t blade.

Read the pinned comment, you missed the entire point.

@@iheart3dprinting951 I didn't miss anything. Read that comment. There is no such thing as a "standard wood blade." There are crappy ones and there are good ones and ones with less teeth and ones with more teeth. I very much stand by my comment and your "pinned comment" does not negate the validity of it in any way. And FYI...the place to make your point in a video is IN the video......not in a comment.

but why? you could swap out the blades that are meant for cutting metals? right?

My mitre saw manual says it is designed for wood and aluminium...

You miss the obvious. Does the Diablo cut better than the wood blade was the question. Cutting blades you're speaking of are on metal cutting saws, the RPM of a wood miter is too fast for those. So that is why we use THIS blade that is meant for THIS saw that most people probably have. I thought you being an expert would understand this? The aluminum extrusion is not 606,1 it's 6063-T6 which is common for extrusions with complex features. How can you comment with such arrogance and not know your alloys? The value of the Diablo blade increases with thicker aluminum cuts that are not in this video but when you get to 80mm extrusions the wood blade becomes a scary option. But thanks for being another commenter who misses the insanely obvious and on top of that is technically wrong.

DUH, Diablo blades are made for wood and non-ferrious metals.