I couldn’t agree more. No warm ups , pull hills at low rpm ,pull in to fuel just turn off engine No run down , stretch out services to ridiculous miles then wonder why it fails. Service it warm it up run it down don’t cool it and it’ll serve you well….. any engine

You mean isx?

What year? Is it deleted?

Correct, I have 2005 cummins ISX 1,9 million, not problems !

It is in the manual, Cummins Quickserve, it is free, all you need to do is register your Engine Identification Number with Cummins and they will give you, for FREE, everything the dealership has at its disposal. Complete instructions for diagnostics, repairs, schematics, parts, etc., everything you would need is right there, including the procedure to properly counterbore the block and which tool to use. Unfortunately, many Cummins trained and certified "mechanics" never read the manual. I learned this first hand after going through just this, a blown liner, Cummins shop, they never cut and shimmed the block as I instructed them to do. Seventy thousand miles later, blown head gasket and a trashed head... This time, I rebuilt the motor myself, and had a very good friend with the cutting tool prep the block. I rebuilt that motor with an iPhone and a bag of simple hand tools. That was back in 2016, still driving it to this day, knock on wood, without issues. And if you ever do take on a job like this, follow the procedure in regards to priming the oil circuit... The bearings I took out of the fresh in frame looked like they had 2 million miles on them. That Cummins shop skipped that part too, it is in the manual.

Thank you!

Really go to time 9:29 see chatter marks and you think shim will seat right

Ha ha, yea Cummins warranty. I was a transit bus mechanic for several years. We sent a bus to Cummins Rocky Mountain in Denver for a new M-11 engine. We got the bus back, and it kept setting low oil pressure codes. Cummins came out and replaced a melted Teflon thrust washer in the front gear housing. Still keep setting codes. An engineer came up with a “fix”. Drill into an oil passage by the air compressor. Then drive in a restrictor plug they fabricated. Still had low oil pressure issues. Cummins would not consider pulling the engine, or tearing it down. We just ate it, and retired the bus. I lost all respect for Cummins after that.

@@redmesa2975 I would have too. I've managed to have positive experiences with Cummins all around the country so I consider myself fortunate in that regard.

Glad you enjoyed it!

It was a quick tool we made years ago. And it worked so good we never changed it lol

Thank you!

The ISX ruined the Cummins name

The engines i've done this too over 8 years ago have surpassed what they lasted stock. If done right you'll be in good shape for a while. Just be careful to never let these run low on antifreeze. they are very picky about that.

@@zedperformance thanks for the heads up

I'm 6 years on my rebuild, my buddy cut the block and shimmed the liners, I did the rest... If done properly you should have a million mile motor, just don't lug the damn thing under a load. Keep the motor at that 1500 rpm and above, or you will beat those liners right out of the block, no matter the protrusion height.

@@michaelwright1602 really? That sucks I really liked the lugging torque since I’m coming out of a pathetic mbe.

@@michaelwright1602 So get a c15 Caterpillar then?

Totally agree with using a board and scotch pad for deck clean up.

Try paccar liner bore process it just weird to cut horizonal

The o rings? I do a pretty install without them and measure, then pull and install with o rings and measure again to be 100 percent sure

The earlier engines up to 2008 have been much better. I’ve seen plenty go over a 1000000 km stock. Wrist pins wear out at that mileage tho.

@@zedperformance thank you so much for your reply. I don’t want any stress or headache if my truck is going to be in the shop more than the road. 😂

No problem 👍

The tool does not bottom out, you have to do this by feel, and experience. Yes, there is a stop on the tool, but there is nothing to "hear".

Yes can definitely torque the cutter, as far as using a power tool, the tool manufacturer recommends against it for this cutter. I fo agree it would make a smoother cut, but as long as your careful it'll come out good. If you rush it you can leave marks like you describe.

Not me! I possess and utilize my 2000 N14 Select Plus...😇

There were the best motor hardly smoked didn’t burn much fuel drove a tank truck for a guy 40000 hr did the main bearing shells once were in farm tractors dusty conditions ran forever let’s get ride if that and millions spent on diesel from everyone going to the shop non stop with DEF lord help us all

@@michaeldunagan8268 I wish I would've jusT kept and overhauled every Truck with the N14 in it

@@regconrad7783 and it was nice on fuel mileage and parts were cheap , I just overhauled the peterbuilt I got with that garbage isx only had 680,000 and some change on it. Bring back the n14 bring back the 60 series Detroit and let us take a little money home to momma instead of spending it all on these garbage engines they have now

@@Trucker0308 I thank those that posted the problems with emissions trucks to forewarm me not to purchase one.

Shut up

Yah that was on some of the initial cuts. For the final cuts I always use a new carbide tip. Then it cuts smooth.

They sure don't make em like they used to.

The ISX motor ruined Cummins name

Yah they are good old engine. Maybe one of the best even.

Only thing I can think of is maybe it helps with overall rigidity of the block, I'm not certain though.

According to an engineer friend of mine, it is a poor design. If it had a bit of an angle to the cylinders/liners, instead of the 90 degree design, the forces of the pistons beating on the walls would be reduced, allowing longer life out of the motor. What you can do to alivieate much of those forces, is to not lug the motor, under load, below that 1500 rpm mark. These dealers, and Cummins, say for best fuel economy to run these motors under load all the way down to 1000 rpm. Well, you do that, you are simply beating the hell out of those liners, and the reason many fail. Another huge contributing factor, are these God forsaken automatic transmissions. They are set up with very low RPM shift points. These shift points can be adjusted, and should be to get any life out of these motors and transmissions. Your motor and transmission will thank you, and add more than a few years to the life to both components.

The top of the liner is where peak cyl pressure is along with combustion expansion. Detroit made a taper seat for the liners just above the liner oring pack to alleviate this

@@michaelwright1602 Great reply thank you. So much for "let it lug" driver training.

I always thought that liners were mounted at the top and free at the bottom so they had space to grow down with the heat so I suppose if you was to apply that theory here as the heat builds up here the liner is growing upwards into the head bitting tighter into the fireing ring.I would wager the problems happen more from engines doing a lot of stop starting and being allowed to cool right of relaxing the liner back to size and the growing back up again repeatedly.

Yes its a problem from factory in the machining process.

My did at 380k X15 N the shop that did the over haul Cut the block at 10000 spec Only lasted 30k miles N they charge me 39k$ Pos shop

Paccar engine the only one that will do 1 million.

@@firstamendmenttshirt4768 🤣

Don't lug the motor under a load, keep the rpm up above 1500 rpm at all times. If you have an auto transmission that is set up to lug, get it recalibrated and get those shift points up where they should be. When you lug a Cummins, due to their design, the forces on the liner walls are magnified, and simply beats them out of their seat in the block. The higher the rpm the lower the forces are on the liner walls.

​@@michaelwright1602Yes, this is literally the lack of strength in the block that is showing up in the down speed trucks which are the majority these days. Cummins has a serious problem on their hands with this x-15 block

I think the single cam engines better, less moving parts and the benifit of common rail injection. But as far as out of the box stock reliability, the ISX ive seen last the longest would be the early twin cams.

@@zedperformance I'm a living witness I currently own a 2007 isx 1.4 million miles everything original never changed a single injector..the only thing I'm faced with is a front crankcase leak

@@jeffreyweston900 Watch that soft aluminum on the front structure it it is leaking at the oil pan. Do not use a zip gun, hand tools only, and be gentle. The torque specs and procedure are to be found in Cummins Quickserve. It is free, just register the EIN with Cummins.

Had one back apart at 600 000 miles due to an injector issue. Liners still checked out good. Have other that are past that and still going strong.

@@zedperformance what’s your thoughts on leaving the factory turbo on or replacing with a fixed vein turbo running a delete tune not adding any hp?

@@jaredclark1829 done a few like this with good results including the ceramic manifold. They are the quickest trucks in the area. Only down side is loosing that 3rd stage brake. I haven't had any experience with the aftermarket cam to retain that function

@@zedperformance the guys running the ceramic manifolds and turbos claim they get better mpg and cooler running motors?

@@jaredclark1829 absolutely they do yup

I actually don't have a shop, I'm employed full time and do a little side work.

There's foam plugs that come with the cutter tool, block off just below the counter bore lip. Then I always vacuum out before removal. It's a good idea to cover the rod journals with a rag zip tied around them also.

@@zedperformance doing my second overhaul but on a Maxxforce DT, trying to do the best practices to prevent anything from happening. Thanks.

@@midnightt6991 I hate to even think how many Maxiforce DT blocks I had to cut over the years, it was like they had block and tooling crocked at the factory. Good luck, just remember, it's a Maxforce, it can't be fixed, just temporarily repaired, it will be back, hell I paid for 3 vehicles and a home on VT365's alone, lol.

@@retjarhead yeah they are badly engineered engines. The DT466 was decent though

@@midnightt6991 I've made a pretty good living keeping a fleet of Maxxforce DT powered school buses going. About the only way you can make them reliable is to delete them. None of ours are either by the way. If you are hellbent on killing them faster then throw on a Bulletproof egr cooler. Sends even more exhaust into the engine.

Single cam engines started in 2011\2012. before that they were twin cams.

The single cam cummins will have the high pressure fuel pump, which should be rebuilt every 400,000 miles, yes, they still grenade. They are model numbers CM-2250, CM-2350 and the new X motors. The CM-570, 870 and 871 are dual cam, one cam for the exhaust and one for the injectors.

@@michaelwright1602 I dodged that fuel pump. My mechanic caught that at the first sign of trouble. Replaced that with the new updated rod one. As for my engine I was wrong, I have a 2013 ISX1 I'll look into the model number on the plate later. Thanks for the info!

The twin cam is the best engine they made and cheapest to fix thank u buy old trucks

@@zedperformance One of my excavation customers has a 2006 DOHC ISX. I don't know alot about it, but it sounds like he will be good. It's at just under 700,000 miles right now.

It works well. Just gotta be careful. Have only used it on Cummins. Although might have a cat coming in this summer for a cut. I’ll make a video if so.

@@zedperformance can you use regular feeler gauges to set up depth or u hav to use the ones that come with the tool..

@@306TTR not sure. I always use the ones with the tool.

@@zedperformance k. The reason i am asking is the shims that come with tool only totals upto .0185 On cat u usually hav to cut deeper than that..

@@306TTR true. I guess that’s why I’ve come to the procedure that I do in the video. First cut of usually .010 then measure. Then final cut.

This is a very common problem with any isx made from 2008 to 2017 ish.

@@zedperformance So from the relative safety of the South Pacific and given this mechanic told us this was the third head gasket [alas he did not say how many miles the motor had incurred whilst consuming head gaskets at an incredible rate of knots] One could be forgiven for imagining anyone buying one of these motors would be handed a workshop manual and a set of head gaskets as he or she left the dealers yard accompanied by the words here you will most likely need a set of these. Many outside he States are watching the John Deere software retention issue with amazement Finally and in the spirit of humour the States are an amazing place Where else in the world would you have a nation of people trying to make tea by tipping perfectly good English tea into salt water

I work at Cummins, and we fixed this issue about a year ago for new engines. It was a tough problem to solve. Not all problems are easy to solve or are easy to test for and this checks both of those boxes. It was less of a problem after the shim was installed under the liners for the ~2013+ built engines, but higher cylinder pressures didn't help as you got closer to today. Moving forwards, this should be fixed. Also, don't exceed 0.014", as this has a high likelihood of making the rebuilt engine fail significantly sooner. When rebuilding these engines, make sure to follow the latest service procedures and part numbers (liner + shim combo).

@@MrPizzaman09 Gee finally solved only took what 10-11 years. Cummins is a very poorly made engine terrible fuel economy, performance and they come a part far too easily. Cummins doesn’t stand behind their engines if you do have a problem they’ll do everything in their power to bandage the issues so the engine lasts till warranty expires then they’ll say it’s your problem. And for all practical purposes a C-12 Caterpillar will run circles around an ISX and get better fuel economy all day long even if it’s sick.

@@MrPizzaman09 Not really tough to solve just change block design to a top stop cylinder liner but give it a wide flange and a liner with a generous radius and an inch of slip fit support below the lip so the liner doesn't vibrate and rock and wear the uppers like the N14 did. The problem with mid stop cylinder liners with lots of heat cycles leads to issues with wear and distortion as seen here. The bigger the engine and the greater the stroke length the more this gets to be a problem.

Yea but now its the def system failures 😆

I have had all three issues happen. The fuel pump eating itself was just the last thing

Absolutely, it just so happens I'll be starting on a front cover tonight. So watch for a video on that next.

@@NewTrip_NewAdventure The fuel pumps are still an issue. If you ever get any low fuel pressure warnings, shut the truck down immediately until you can properly access the situation.

DD is miles ahead of the cummins trash they produce these days

2 hrs or less

Don't have a shop, I work as a tech for an ag company.

If you need this quality of work, and a real warranty, Haggai Automotive and Diesel Repair in Griffin GA is your guy. They specialize in Cummins motors, one of the best shops in the country.

Whatever...

No o ring for initial final measurement. Then re install with o ring and check again.

There was no o ring on it yet to seal it.

@@zedperformance even with no o ring I have to give liner slight pressure to drop in. Just did my first 2350 engine

Don't forget about the Pi** poor tune they got from the guy on the CB telling him how he can give him all the power he wants. 🤡

Doesn't hurt them to idle, nor run 85 all day. Diesel engines are super tough when built to close tolerance and adhered too spec's. I've idled many hours on them never had this type of issue, this is manufacturing issues!

It does hurt the newer engine to idle soot soot soot is the killer. I put a boost gage and exhaust gage on my truck. And I don't try to pull hard on hills...sounds crazy ,but it can save you

@@darrellfincher2948 These EPA motors should not be idled. They are not designed for that type of work, no matter what the manufacturer states.

@@jlmcgraw415 Well, I hope you are keeping those rpm's up in that 1500 range or higher. Let the engine do the work, not the turbo. Downshifting is your friend.