me too.

Hacking things up is the easy part ;) now I just need to put it all back together again...

Having welded motorcycle cases in the past, I made a mandrel that fit the main bearings, and sent the welded case out for stress relieving (heat treatment) to prevent warpage.

@@UncleKennysPlace I was thinking of the same solution, the bearing holders need to be exactly in line and just bolting the parts up to the other half isn't to be precise enough. bearing alignment must be within 1/100th of a mm otherwise the engine wouldn't run very long. Using a turned mandrel which has bosses beeing at the precise locations and size of the bearings on the real crankshaft should work, placing the lock rings in each part and then fitting them on the mandrel will ensure both bearing spacing and allignment are at the exact location where they should be.

@@UncleKennysPlace did the same

Thank you for the kind words :) it's always nerve wrecking to ruin perfectly good parts not knowing if you're actually going to pull this off ;)

Thanks ;)

beautiful and brilliant

Check out Allen Millyard here on KZfaq for more inspirational madness. He's become quite well known in the Frankenstein engine business with straight 5's, 6's, V8's and V12's.. all chopped up with a hacksaw and a file and most of them end up looking like factory stock engines.

Thank you for the generous rating :) I'm very curious myself really, not sure if it's going to work out because I don't really know what I'm doing and figuring things out and learning as I go along. It may not work out on first try but I'll just have to redo it until I learned enough to make it work :)

Im really interested in the mods you've done to the 1 cyl, did you start from high comp pistons etc or the porting route

@@benson4u215 lots of mods really, it has a completely different connecting rod and piston, and a spacer underneath the cylinder so I could decide the port height myself. Lots of porting, shaved material off the top of the cylinder, recut the head. It isn't anything like a stock 277 any more, almost no parts would work on a regular 277 without all the other mods.

@@Hollaendaren That is awesome, bet its a blast to ride!

in fact i would have removed a few thou from each crankcase face and then align hone it to get it square

Yep, I plan on using it for vintage snow drag racing :) Ice drags would be fun too but we don't have any ice races here. And ice ovals with this thing would be a bit too much to handle for me. The plan is to start out with an 80ish Everest 500 tunnel but mate it with a 71 TNT belly. But got a long way to go before I'll start on the chassis. Thanks!

Thank you :)

Thats how I pressed, untill I got a press. And even now I will still press with a hammer now and then.

Same here! :) Hopefully it'll be worth the effort.

Thanks! I hope so :)

Dankje!

I'm thinking 1324 because that's been tested by others and seems to work well, but still trying to figure out if a different order might be better.

@@Hollaendaren That actually makes most sense, that way you'll have the most smooth scavenging of the cylinders.

I am behind a bit with the editing and I'm pretty much at the stage where I need to start welding things together now. I have turned and ground a solid steel blank "crank", and plates to bolt the top and bottom to keep them from rotating on the shaft. I've also done some test welding on leftover crankcase parts and as it turns out, these castings are horrible to weld, there's so much oil and junk in them. Also accessibility is an issue, I just can't get at all the places that need to be welded from the outside. I would need to weld them from the inside without the fake crank in place, pretty much guaranteed to become crooked. So currently the plan is to just tack everything together and use a different method to seal the joints. The welds don't have to be very strong, rigidity will come from the plates that will go on top and underneath the crankcase, so the main purpose is to get everything sealed. I have some brazing rods coming but I'm not sure how they work with aluminium, but if those work that might be a good solution, a lot less heat involved. I'm also doing a JB weld vs Methanol test, glued some crankcase pieces together and submerged them in methanol. So far that's looking good too. I would prefer something more proper though :) I am hoping to avoid having to line bore it, because that's not something I'm setup to do myself at the moment. Really need to get my large lathe on a properly level surface... If I have to send it away for line boring that's going to be at least a month of no progress, the companies that take that kind of jobs here are pretty busy.

Ive done some casing welding and casting always throws up lot of junk, my approach was to use a wire wheel periodically to re-clean the surface back after welding some. One thing I've had to do is get a large enough oven to heat the whole casings up, pull them out and do a bit of welding then back in the oven repeating that many times over. Aside from aiding the welds it helps avoids warping.. Due to the junk in casting on one job rebuilding intake casting on my RD LC 350 race bike barrels to fit YZ 6 petal reeds I could not avoid pin holes and ended up having to use devcon putting to seal it that worked well. Good luck with it.

I'm going to need a pretty wide oven for this one, I only have my little oven/stove that won't even fit half the case. Heating things up properly definitely helps a lot though. I'm going to do some measuring and see if there's any chance I can find a cheap-ish 2nd hand oven that it will fit in. Being pretty new to the whole TIG thing is not helping either, but luckily I have plenty of test pieces to experiment on with different settings etc. We'll see how it goes. I have a feeling I need all the good luck I can get so thanks!

@@Hollaendaren instead of buying a bigger oven use a 4 burner bbq with a hood,plenty wide enough for an inline 4,just monitor temps with a gauge. Been useing one for years to heat parts and for a powder coating oven.

@@yuk-erkmckirk9277 Just what I was going to suggest. Also portable and doesn't require high voltage to run it. Can use it occasionally to cook on as well. Man's gotta eat too.

wouldn't that make it longer though

@@jamescooper4260: Yes, but only about 1 inch. or the thickness of both crankshaft flanges. Think about how much easier that is. In fact, that is how most engineers connect two engines in-line. Ever seen the V-16 made from two Chevy V-8s. The guy connected the back of one crank to the front of the other with a homemade 12 spline coupling.

If there is an easy way and a hard way, why pick the easy way ;) You might as well ask why not buy a ready to run crate inline 4 engine, that would be even easier. The sole point of projects like this is the self set goal of making it just the way you want to make it. It is not about making it easy or sensible, it is about the satisfaction of making stuff.

@@JohnSmith-lf8ks OK then. My goal is to make a 532 cyl engine from corn flakes. I will be everyone's hero.

@@timhallas4275 Can't wait for the video, I promise to 'like' it.

archangel20031 I think he plans to clamp it to the bigger shaft he showed in the beginning. That way. If the spacing is right he will know the bearing bores will be all in line.

I can line bore it anyway if needed. I'm going to be using different rods and pistons than stock so nothing is going to fit anyway, shaving a mm off both halves and reboring it to the same diameter would be fine. Or I could probably go up one size on the bearing OD. I am pretty sure you are talking about the 50cc cylinders that I just machined for 2stroke stuffing :)

@@Hollaendaren I like what you've got going on here. Glad to hear you're considering align boring it as well. Probably pay dividends in engine life and will most certainly be necessary.

So am I, but first of all I need to get it to actually run at all :)

You can build the one cylinder for the little off-roader?

Snowmobiles :)

Thank you! There will be a little status update soon I hope :)

I have, he has built some awesome stuff!

Kawasaki made triple motors 250cc 750cc 900cc all 2 cycle

@@allstatekiwi5646 Kawasaki made triple motors, 250cc 350cc 400cc 500cc and 750cc. Sorry but whats your point? I owned a 500.

@@JukeboxGothic well these are nothing that Kawasaki had already made. The crankshaft are the same so building something or using the same principle is easy to do. It's just like building a 2 cycle v8 using a whole heap of engines now that is hard.

I think he mentioned that in part 0 check it out i wonder what are these just like you

Snowmobile 2 stroke. Fan cooled

Yeah I'm going to have to be more careful with that, I enjoy having arms.

T-500 Suzuki doubled up would be the serious bomb. Best 2 stroke ever made maybe

@@nsacrooks loud ass popin 4 cylinder 1000cc 2 stroke revin at 15k and dont even get me started on how mejestic it would sound if it were straight piped and ofc rev it at 3 am to piss your asshoile neabor off

Yes it would probably be a bit simpler to build, but nowhere near as cool as one big 4 cylinder case :)

Well as for hobby maybe you right. I guess with your tools you could even build crankcase from scratch, something like machine for each cylinder its own crank case section and bolt them together.

Thanks! :)

And a 2 cyl 1000

Look like snowmobile

Oh I'm totally expecting some kind of disaster along the way :)

It is in Sweden but close enough ;) I have no idea how it got here, but I bought it from a school about 25 km away from me so I didn't go to Bulgaria to pick it up :) I'm guessing had better prices than Swedish lathes back when it was new.

:) in the past they (here) produce 2500-3500 lathes per month and lot of them was re-branded and sold all over the world. Anyway how is going with 4 cylinder project?

It's going in a vintage snowmobile :)

A snowmobile, and it's actually a bit too wide for that too ;) with the clutch and recoil on it it's 85 cm wide, my hood is 84 🙄 but I'll tackle that problem when I get to it :)

and I assumed this would go in a four wheeled vehicle.

Thank you!

Yep! :) I love it, it's the perfect size for most of the things I need a lathe for.

@@Hollaendaren They used to make them in my home town. If you care for them they are pretty much everlasting but the ones I learned on in school were beaten up to death by 30+ years of morons like me and lack of maintnance. By the way which country are you from?

@@kaneto88 mine was used in a school too but a very small school so it's seen very little use. There were a couple of things to fix but it's working fine now :) I'm in Sweden.

It's going in a vintage snowmobile, drag race only because it'll be a bit of a pain to handle :)

@@Hollaendaren I'll bet. But even if it hasn't got reed valves, it'll rev and scream power. Good luck

Yeah but then I'd have a Yamaha. I'm not ready for that kind of lifestyle changes. Also those are 90s engines, way too new for this project.

@@Hollaendaren ...you are a freaking rockstar! Joe M....not kidding...I was thinking the exact same thing!

Isn't the Vmax a V4 engine..?

@@nestrac No, it's an inline 4

@@nestrac You are thinking of the motorcycle. There is also a V-max snowmobile.

I am first going to see if I can get it to run at all before I do any porting. But when/if it actually works, it's gonna be race ported, and I'll most likely run it on methanol. I am going to borrow some pipes from my friend for starters but plan to build custom pipes later. But taking baby steps for now, there's a long way to go before I can start porting. Don't want to put any time into porting until I know the bottom end works.

Correct, they are out of 1974 Ski-Doo TNT F/A snowmobiles. The earlier free air sleds were more aimed towards racing for those who couldn't buy factory racers, anyone could buy one of these sleds they came out of. They were loosely based on the 73 factory racers but toned down a bit so they could be trail ridden too. They raced mostly in stock classes and in stock form they had about 55 HP (for a 2 cylinder that is). So lots of room for improvement there but still not all that bad for being 1974.

@@Hollaendaren well, once done, what is the game plane, with a completed and running 4 cyl engine?, Or will figure that out, once you get there? Either way, I have enjoyed all 4 parts, and working my way through your other videos... Good stuff!!!

@@drubradley8821 I'm going to have to build a new snowmobile chassis for it, I've started realizing this project is going to take way longer than I originally thought. I was hoping to have it somewhat finished by now, not sure what I was thinking. I want to do some drag racing with it and see if I can actually give newer stuff somewhat of a race or if I'm gonna be there mostly for show ;)

Tanken är nåt i stil med en 70 eller 71 Blizzard :) men jag ska först lyckas få ihop motorn innan jag börjar med chassit.

MegaDirtyberty idk

@@chrisnvdd5094 Likewise, hence the question.

I would like to know too, but i don’t

Don't forget the Dremel!

These aren't KT100 engines, I have no idea where people are getting that from.

@@Hollaendaren okay then what are they?

@@Hollaendaren looks exactly like a kt100 to me. Atleast the same design. Not same displacement if they are 200 some ccs.

They are Rotax 440 snowmobile engines.

I don't think they have much in common other than both being air cooled and piston port, there's 1000s of different engines like that. For starters there's the fact that the engines I'm using are twins not singles. Cases are split horizontally on these, vertical on KT100. KT100 cylinders have "feet" (short studs), these have long studs all the way through the cylinders and heads. KT heads are 6 bolt, these are 8 bolt. Completely different crank of course. Etc etc ;) I don't see a whole lot of similarities.

Det hade hur som helst blivit trångt i vevhuset om man ska ha 2 stakar bredvid varandra :) och ännu värre om man måste ha 3 skinkor för att dom ska gå mot varandra. Men en 4cyl boxer är faktiskt nåt som står på önskelistan :)