Thanks for the confidence inspiring words, haha! ;) there's plenty of people who weld 1½ twins together to make a triple so it's got to be doable somehow. But these castings seem to be a special kind of dirty. I'm actually afraid of fucking this up as I have almost no experience with it myself and replacement parts are a pain in the ass to find here (easier in the US/CA where there's plenty of these engines around). But learning by doing and all... I'm trying to fool someone who at least knows what he's doing into taking care of the welding for me though. If nobody wants to do it for me, I'll probably just tag it together and fill the rest with jb weld. It doesn't need to be very strong, the plates will take care of that. But it does need to be sealed up properly.

why not?

I haven't crossed my fingers this much in a long time.. I'm pretty nervous about the whole welding thing.

@@Hollaendaren Heat up the cases with a torch when welding.

Do a collaboration video with him those are cool different KZfaqrs getting together helping eachother

@@Hollaendaren what are the types of engine

Yeah, I'm pretty worried about the whole warping and twisting part. But the joints won't have any gaps so shrinkage should be very minimal (hopefully). And the 2 plates will stay on the engine to pull it back into shape when everything is done. I'm really hoping I can avoid having to line bore it but we'll see I guess. I've tested welding on some leftovers and these castings are absolutely horrible to weld, so much junk in them. I'm actually considering just tagging it together and seal it with jb weld. I had a friend who is much better at tig welding than I am test too and while his results were much prettier than mine he didn't want to have anything to do with it after testing either.

Tar det på svenska, är för kass på engelska. Me man kan inte jämföra aluminium mot konatruktionsstål eller rostfritt. Har du en jigg för svart eller rf hjälper det bara till liten del, där är det mest svetsscheman som gäller. För delarna drar sig ändå. Men aluminium är mycket mer tacksamt. Beroende på konstruktion så klart, men har du en stadig jigg eller plan yta och låter bitarna sitta där tills allt kallnat håller de sig typ exakt som jiggen,åtminstonde om du fortfarande tänker på att sprida ut värmen och ha nåt slags genomtänkt schema . Fråga mig inte varför bara 😅

@@danielssonsgarage Det var det här jag ville höra :) Tyvärr så har jag ingen ugn som är nog bred för att få in hela vevhuset, men jag tänkte att jag ställer motorn på 2 spisplattor innan svetstning, värmen borde bli nog jämn iaf, lär knappast bli så att ena ändan är iskall medans andra ändan är 200 grader. Sen får man väl linda in den i nåt täcke och bara låta den stå o bli varm i nån timme, för det lär väl ta ett tag. Sen får man väl ställa tillbaks det på spisen en stund efter svetsning, och ha täcke runt. Har du kanske några bra tips på hur jag ska få ut all (eller iaf lite) skit ur vevhusen? Har testat värma i ugn på 200 grader i några timmar men det hände inte så mycket då, men så fort man börjar svetsa så öser det bara ut olja överallt. Något jobbig att svetsa i.

@@Hollaendaren That's where the oven also helps with the welding because aluminium conducts heat away from the weld so fast you are fighting against a fast cooling weld puddle trying to keep it fluid with turning up the amps so much you scorch a crater in it. Having that steel shaft n the middle will help store heat some as well as the plates on top and bottom once you take it out of the oven between welds or even using an oxy torch with heating tip to keep the assembly hot and wrapping it in a fire blanket to help reduce heat loss and also protect near the weld from spatter, The other thing is cutting a decent size Vee trough into the joins to fill because aluminium is a bit of a cross between fusing the parts like steel and filling a puddle like bronzing hence you need a decent Vee trough to fill. And if you use a grinders or wire brush be sure it is new and no sings of any other metals on it that can contaminate the weld, cleanliness is everything. AND the final de-stress step will require an oven to ensure the whole thing is kept at a constant heat for a long period for it to work and don't be tempted to take the jig off before the de-stressing in the oven because the jig will be holding some of the counter stress that will need to be present when it is in the oven to oppose the warpage until the heat de-stresses the whole assembly and then let it cool slowly in air to ensure no heat treating results from the oven time. Aside from the warping if the assembly is de-stressed in the oven it'll help reduce any chances of cases cracking later because of weld stress in it.

@@Hollaendarenjo du måste förvärma för att få vettiga fogar utan att ha en jättekraftig svets. Sedan spricker det lätt utan också, så förvärm. Jo det är svårt, är riktig smutsig aluminium :/ men slipa ordentlig v-fog så får du bort mkt olja mekaniskt. Sedan öppen låga så det svettas ut, i omgångar, värm och tvätta. Fogberedning är a och o. Efter 3-4passafer med att svetsa-slipa går det svetsa bra utan porer om det är en kortare bit som ska svetsas. Men du har ju nån meter fog 😅 Jag har jobbat som aluminiumsvetsare i flera år tills ja bytte, så jag är inte BARA en internetexpert 😅

Yeah, I plan on doing that on the inside because I can't have my bar in place while welding there. The trouble is I need to find an epoxy that won't dissolve in methanol. I've tested jb weld vs methanol and it holds up for a very long time but eventually it does dissolve. We're talking months of being submerged in methanol though, so I think if I flush the engine with regular fuel after each race it'll be fine :)

I'm afraid I'll end up doing just that. I don't feel at all like I know what I'm doing here. If I can't get anyone else to weld it for me I should probably do a lot more training before I attempt it myself. There's so many variables and settings involved.

Of course :) but as I'm going to have to bolt the engine onto something it's pretty important that both the top and bottom are straight too so I don't twist the case when bolting it onto the engine mounting plate later. I just wanted to use every possible way of making it more rigid while welding.

@@Hollaendaren Yep, good work. Loved the racey Puch moped !. In New Zealand as a teen we put a Puch 175cc into a Sachs 49cc moped frame; wow did it ever fly !!! Forget changing gear.

Thanks :) this footage is a couple of weeks old and not much has happened since because of all kinds of problems. So it looks like the smooth sailing part is over now. But it'll be fine, will just take a little longer :)

That's not a bad idea 👍If I do it again or make a triple out of 2 twins or something I'll definitely do that, thanks for the tip!

Rotax 377

I'm way behind with the editing, it takes me half a day to edit these videos and I just haven't had that kind of time. But hopefully soon! :) The welding looks like it went pretty well though, I just finished it last weekend. There's a bunch of pictures on my Instagram page if you want a preview of the next video :)

I forgot to answer about the plates.. They're there to strengthen the crankcase. I will use longer rods on the new crank, but also a bit shorter pistons (stock pistons are pretty high and not available any more from decent manufacturers). So the top plate kind of picks up the difference between the rods and the pistons as well as make the case a bit more rigid.

What would you recommend doing so for stress reliefs