New wave.. it was invented in 1879

Yeah, that's my thinking...Otherwise if I had a Nissan with a CVT Transmission, I'd want this guy to take a look and give it a tune-up; but at least Nissan is trying to improve on their transmissions. Toyota is suppose to have the best CVTs, but hopefully Nissan can change that aspect...

cause cvt transmissions go bad more often than my transmission needs fluid changes

I watched that one also. Ivan is one smart guy!

The VT1 can be some work. We have not had one apart in the shop in a while and parts can be tricky to get at times.Thanks,Matt Johnson

Did you change the transmission oil every 20k miles ?

@@sammax4245 I do it every 30k.

@@robertbolivarr8363 I hope the dealer fixed them for free , they are still under warranty

Although I'm sorry about what happened to your vehicles. However, I'm glad to see you disprove the myth that Toyota CVT's never fail prematurely.

@@honestone490 I'm lucky in a way because, with my Toyota Corolla, the CVT brokedown at 60400 miles which is 400 miles over my 60k under warranty. I just talked to the Toyota corporate office to give me a break because it's just 400 miles over. After a month of begging, Toyota replaced my CVT for free.

Got 120,000 miles on mine and still perfoms as new. I also change the fluid every 40,000 miles. Maintain it and it will last forever.

Armand,The sheave bearings need to be inserted with the sheave's inserted together about half way (a piece of foam supporting them at the proper distance is very helpful). As far as the noise is concerned, a differential issue is certainly a possibility, however, we do see a fair amount of issues with the transfer gear bearings.Thanks,Matt

These are great, bit at the same time these are sooooo slow :(

No if you're looking for sports car transmission then you'll want a straight 6 manual. Automatic transmission are better than CVT if you don't want a manual. That's my opinion. Jeff may have better advice though.

Joshua,I would suspect that minimizing the amount of extending and compressing that the primary and secondary variator pulleys do (i.e. using the manual steps and minimizing "shifting") would reduce the wear a little on the 6mm sheave bearings. I do not think it would likely have any benefit for the pulley bearings themselves or the pump and valving. There may be some additional wear at those exact points on the sheave faces, but I have not seen this as an issue before. We recommend replacing the fluid and filter(s) every 30,000 to minimize the internal wear. Thanks,Matt Johnson

Alan, Yes, the fluid and filters can be changed. We recommend changing fluid and filters (both the pan and cooler return) every 30,000 miles on the Jatco CVT's. Thanks, Matt Johnson

Bob,I really appreciate the feedback. I have heard that parts were coming from my local Nissan dealers, but have not been able to actually get what we have needed, when we have needed it. I know they have a couple pulley assemblies and valve bodies available, but Nissan apparently has not upgraded the variator; please let me know if you have heard anything different.Thanks,Matt

Kennedy Transmission, CVT & Auto yes very limited on what’s available, they seem to only be releasing enough parts “fix” the problems they are having with them

Hi Sir , do you know if is necesary to remove the forward and reverse cluches for remove the pulley assembly on a Jatco JF015e? Cheers.

Ricardo,We always disassemble them fully, but you may be able to work the end cover and pulleys out after the valve body has been removed.Thanks,Matt

Kennedy Transmission, CVT & Auto Thanks so Much

George,We really went deep into CVT's in 2015; largely because we were seeing such high failure rates on the dealership rebuilt units we were installing for our customers. I purchased multiple trailer loads of CVT cores that we disassembled and analyzed for failures. Since we already specialized in European transmissions, I have contacts in Europe that were helpful in obtaining parts. We can now improve on a number of the factory failure points on quite a few units if they require an overhaul.Thanks,Matt

Kennedy Transmission, CVT & Auto Wow, thanks. Best of luck with your business. g-

On the Jatco units without a dipstick, we monitor the temperature on a scan tool as we drive until it is proper (most require 135 degrees f to 165 degrees f) before pulling it in. We leave it running and check it from underneath. We like to see a moderately thin stream from the check port on a full unit at proper temp range.Thanks,Matt Johnson

PRIMARY PULLEY STUCK

Ok so I found out were the whine was coming from! I thought it was from the cvt but wasn’t. I discovered that the rear output seal was leaking and through the jugs and reels ended up replacing the front transfer case and noise is gone! It’s apparently a very common problem for that rear output seal to leak on the transfer case.

We recommend 30,000 mile service intervals to all of our CVT customers. I would recommend the filter(s) be changed as well at that time.Thanks,Matt Johnson

@Maciek Bokina always worked out well for our shop. Been open 30 years.

@Maciek Bokina i will sure thing. wit sells sonnax products though.

@Maciek Bokina they build they're own transmissions and sell most all internals at different price points from basic to racing quality parts.

@Maciek Bokina they have a site it shows all they offer. Transtar is pretty good too.

আমাকেশিকাতেহবে আমাকে শিখাতে

@@AbuKalam-uk5to .. speak English you moron

Zapsurf 13 because there isn’t. Thousands of cars every year being driven with them without a problem.

CVT's themselves aren't bad just the way Nissan built these ones are pretty shitty newer ones are getting a lot of improvements

We recommend changing the fluid and filters every 30,000 - 50,000 miles to all of our customers. These units are very sensitive to debris and frequent services is about the only way to help minimize it. Thanks, Matt

Ahmed,I believe this JF010E is out of a Murano, but is essentially the same as the JF010E in the Maxima. The filter in the pan is a metal screen type and the auxiliary filter (if equipped) is on the rear of the case (self contained metal canister with filter media). I hope this helps. Thanks, Matt Johnson

Matt,If you did not swap the ROM card from the original valve body to the replacement, you will need to do that (or have the new ROM card flashed with a Nissan scan tool (Consult).Thanks,Matt Johnson

I ended up swapping the sylonoids from the new valve body onto the old valve body but it's still doing the same thing... where is the rom card located?

আবুকালাম আৃমিচিকেতেচাই

@@AbuKalam-uk5to ?

Never do a transmission flush. That's what could create future problem. However, it's perfectly safe to do just a drain and fill.

@@honestone490 exactly. I hear some say never ever do drain and fill. They are usually running shops doing flushes with EXPENSIVE machines and they must justify the cost by making some of it back. Hey I'd like to know isn't cleaner fluid better than dark dirty fluid? I'll listen to folks who always changed theirs at 15000-20000. Drain. Fill.

Taare,By no good forward pressure, do you mean the secondary pulley pressure is significantly lower than the primary? Are you able to see the primary pressure rise with engine RPM's when there is a lack of acceleration? The buzzing sound may be a pump or fluid supply issue- is the noise similar to that of a whining power steering pump.Thanks,Matt Johnson

P/s noise more like lose belt ,but this more like a fly trap in a jar.vizzzzzzzz.....

Robert,If the issue is with a pressure control solenoid or anything with the valve body you are almost surely between a few hundred dollars to maybe close to $1000.00. If the issue is internal, you are likely above $2,500.00. If the wear/ damage is heavier, these transmissions are certainly over $3000.00 (with removal and replacement).Thanks,Matt Johnson

@@kennedytransmissioncvtauto5430 ok thanks.again I just sent another message because I never saw any replys until now.so please disregard nwe message you answered my question.but how much if I take just the tranny to you.I'll pull the tranny myself and take it to you from michigan

My Mitzubishi Gallant tran went bad😣!

The belts can certainly go over 200K on most CVT's. When we see belt failure, it is generally caused by an underlying issue.Thanks,Matt

Hey Jeff, Thanks for the informative, to the point video. If I may ask, what would the underlying issue be to cause belt failure? I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer with a CVT that has been slipping at low speed, and it's throwing a fault code for fluid pressure. Unfortunately no one in my town in Louisiana that owns a transmission shop wants to work on it. Everyone just wants to replace it, at quite a large cost...and many don't even want to replace it. Have you heard of a similar issue before? Would it be worth my money to replace the whole thing on a 10 year old car? It only has 68,000 miles on the damned thing. And get this...I only bought it last freakin' week! Thanks for any advice.

The most common causes for belt failure on the JF011E are the pump flow control valve sticking, sheave bearing wear in the primary variator pulley or being run low on fluid. That being said, if you have any movement at all, we know that the belt is still in tact (although slipping will certainly damage it). The Lancer's generally seem to be pretty good cars so you certainly may want to have the CVT repaired or replaced; particularly with such low mileage. Is the pressure code you are getting a P0868? Are there any other codes?Thanks,Matt Johnson

Matt - The code I'm getting is indeed P0868, as well as P0776 (which is for the Secondary Pressure Control Solenoid - performance or stuck Off). I had a guy flush it and refill it, and add a CVT additive from a company called BG...drove it for a week, and now it drives fine, with no issues. I'm not so sure about that "fix" though. It's not setting any codes, or slipping/hesitating. The first owner obviously didn't drive it much, as it's a 10 year old car with only 70,000 miles. They actually traded it in because it started having transmission issues. I found their phone number in the glove box and was able to contact them. Thing is, it was supposed to be serviced at 60,000 miles and they never did. I've read that CVT transmissions can be very sensitive to dirty fluid. Do you think it's possible that the car not being driven often, coupled with not having the trans. serviced at 60,000 miles could cause junk to clog stuff up that the CVT additive broke free and "cleaned up"? Or, do you think I have an issue that's going to pop back up at some point? Thanks for any advice Matt. You guys are running a good, honest shop, and I wish I could take my car to you. Wanna open a branch in Louisiana, lol?

You can tell it, but if it's a female computer it won't listen to you anyway!

2

No because people don't change CVT fluid at recommended intervals. Or they use non CVT ns2 fluid

probably needs an oh for that code pull pan and see if magnet is full of metal

@@jeffstepp1969 it had metal. Flushed it and cleaned the valve body. Had sticking primary and secondary valves. Cleaned bore holes and still it has to be the pump valve regular. Heard that they stick or wear our. The transmission runs fine once it starts going. No slipping. The front axle was leaking and I assumed that the metal wear was from the low fluid. Hoping to replace the pump valve with a transgo kit. I dont hear any bearing issues. I'm hoping that once I have the pump valve regular, I'll be set. As long as the pulleys are not bad. Any thoughts? Or it this just a pipe dream?

Codes p0686 pump pressure. Works for a little but when I try to go up a hill or from a stop, not consistent will give a p1746. The p0686 is causing the other code. Drove to shop about 35 min, no issue. Thoughts. My hope is that low fluid caused the metal pieces, maybe for the belt. Saw the belt when I I removed the valve body and looked ok. Cant afford a rebuild for something I just bought.

@@manna5610 the flow control valve in the pump is always worn this cvt its usually worn primary pulley balls and flow valve worn

@@jeffstepp1969 the murano has 190k. That would make sense. I'm sure at this point the flow control is both worn and sticking from a scored bore hole. No bearing noise on the pulleys that I have heard from other you tube videos that give that indication. I think I found a local shop to put in the transgo replacement value, but I dont think they will do the bearings on the pulley. I guess I'll find out when I get to that point. I'm weighting my options before spending another grand on a car I bought and can not drive. I figure 1k is not a bad price to pull the trans and put in the transgo kit. Am I wrong to think it? Thanks for your help and advise....