Working on a 2001 PT right now. Head gasket gave with 86k miles on it. Sat for 2 years and now I'm cleaning everything out. Figured Id watch a few weeks of videos before putting it back together.

You are correct, but have to keep in mind this video was made 10 years ago and ultrasonic cleaners weren't easily available then.

+Seth Martin I'd be concerned with leaving metal dust down inside the pee holes that would get ground up in the rockers or cam journals. It may work, sure… and I too have seen this… but a brand new set of 3rd revision Topline 4g63 lifters are so cheap on ebay that I don't know why people experiment with this. I think I got mine for like $80. That's only $5 each.

Once I assessed that half of them were trash, it didn't matter anymore. What you want to do is keep them in order unless a part looks unusually worn. In a valve train, other parts can contribute to that so it's important to know what goes wear until you have a full assessment. When it comes to valves, yes. They must all stay in the holes they came from. Hydraulic valve train? Eh, it doesn't hurt, but a properly-functioning hydraulic valve train is self-adjusting.

+BoostedCajun Yes, and you'd need to oil them immediately afterwards because they're made from ferrous materials that will rust if left oil-free. Internally, that could cause them to stick. So yes, mineral spirits, Kerosene, Diesel, etc… all would work fine and there's really no difference between using mineral spirits and the process I showed here because I oiled them immediately afterwards.

the guy told you what to do in the video... pay attention

They're full of oil. There's a valve inside the lifter centered with the top oil hole. You can straighten a paper clip and poke it open to release the oil. I show how to do it in this video. When they're filled with a liquid, and the valve is closed, the liquid acts as a solid because it won't compress. Once you get air in it, it will.

Ok. So when reinstalling them, should they be empty from oil or hard and full of oil.

An interference engine is simply an engine whose valvetrain will occupy the same physical space inside the combustion chamber as the pistons, just not at the same time. If these events do occur simultaneously it ends with a catastrophic failure of the engine. On a non-interference engine, the valves can be fully opened when the piston is at top-dead-center without making contact with one another. You can snap a timing belt on a non-interference engine and experience no mechanical failures after replacing the timing belt. With an interference engine, your only hope is to get lucky. Sometimes you get lucky, but it's still the kind of a failure you should take very seriously. It's usually toast, but I've seen people get lucky more than once. Look for "Cylinder Head 206". It's mostly about valve clearance, valve timing and Lobe Separation Angles but in it, I made a pretty detailed animation of what happens when you get your valve timing or clearance wrong with an interference engine. I fully explain DOHC valve timing in Cylinder Head 205 and degreeing the cams to their baselines, including making your own tools to do it. It's pretty intense. The Hyundai engine assembly begins after Cylinder Head 206 in the video timeline. I don't have a video specifically about that topic, but there are a lot of ASE certified mechanics like ETCG who do. I only have videos addressing my specific problems related to interference engines, why I have them, and how to tune around the valve clearance issues associated with them. Basically my videos are the full rabbit hole for when people figure out they have an interference DOHC engine and decided they wanted to know more.

i also need to know this as i accidentally tipped over my head before i removed the lifters... oops. i am thinking after watching how to clean the lifters the answer is no.

You can. If you have any crust inside them that's bigger than the hole on top, you might find it difficult to get all the junk out. It might take you more soakings, and more cycles. The hole is just so small...

They should fill back up after the engine is fully warmed up and be silent again. If they don't, then you might have an issue with either the lifters, or the head oil pressure. The noise won't hurt the cams if the oil pressure is good, but if there's an oil pressure problem it could affect the cam journals. If you have good oil pressure on the gauge and didn't change anything else, give your oil pressure the benefit of the doubt. It's a common thing for hydraulic noise to occur until the lifters are filled up.

Jafromobile yeah the car was fine before I took the old cams out. No noise or oil pressure issues. Only thing I did was bleed lifters and swap cams. The tick just scared me.

LOL! Never even thought of that. It's a check valve. Indeed that would work. I just like any reason I can find to play with fire.

You have to crush the bottle cap piece back down. Because of the design changes to these style lifters, you're really better off getting a new set of revised lifters as a replacement. They show up clean, and the hole is big enough that with enough solvent you won't be required to take them apart to clean them in the future. The 1g small-hole lifters are difficult to clamp back down, but it can be done. They're sandwiched between the head and the rocker arm, so that bottle cap piece isn't what's holding it together when it's installed... but you don't want it coming loose and interfering with the rocker arm. They need to fit well enough that oil pressure can't push the caps off, and so that you can't pull them off with your fingers.

@@Jafromobile hey thanks for answering. I really enjoy your videos they are the most detailed and well explained ive seen. One last question when i install the lifters do they need to have oil in them or can i put them in freshly cleaned and with no oil in them?

Oil them, but drain them out first before you install them. Don't install them all pumped up solid with oil. Don't install them dry, either. They'll fill faster and work better on that first startup in this state. Installing them full and pumped up can actually lead to valvetrain damage. I'm pretty sure I covered this in another video, but I can't remember which one? It would be for the Hyundai, I'm pretty sure.

If the check valves are stuck open, they'll never compress. Get the paper clip and poke 'em out real good, if you can't clear the jam or if the check valve is broken, you have to replace the lifter. Just buy a new set off of ebay. Toplines work great and they're dirt cheap.

Jafromobile ok. Thank you for replying fast, I'm currently working on my DSM right now!

MD337687

@@Jafromobile Ok, and MD376687 and MD377054 from another engine or latest version, Thanks!