You're just too kind...

Glad you found it helpful.

It seems to me that there is an improved feel of the trigger. More precise, and solid. Since the trigger, hammer, and hammer dog are centered and supported better, and the hammer isn't rubbing as it strikes the firing pin, things can't help but feel better and work more efficiently. As long as you don't make things too tight. Now, I wouldn't assume that I can go with a lighter weight hammer spring, unless I could put a hundred or so rounds through it to give me the confidence that it would be reliable... but that's just me. My cylinder gap did go from. 008" to .006" and that I like. It should result in more gas down the barrel and less out the sides. As for accuracy I haven't determined anything as of yet... thanks for the positive feedback!

I'll see what I can do... but I clean my guns in an ultrasound cleaner which pulls out the surface oil and grime, and that really makes them shine. Plus the lighting I have in my shop is a bright white, so that brightens things up too. The only things I have polished is the trigger to get rid of the scratches, and the face of the cylinder just to see if that makes it easier to clean. I used 600 grit sandpaper on a flat surface (ceramic tile). Pretty easy and nothing fancy.

There's no need for heat, just remember it has reverse threads. It will release slowly until you get past the nylock material in the threads. When you reassemble it, just hand tight. As soon as the ejector retainer bottoms out that good. The locking nylock material will hold things in place. If you having more questions just let me know...

The next time I disassemble the cylinder which may be in a year or so depending on the amount of shooting I do, I will check the condition of the shim. I don't expect it to need replacing, but that might make for another video.

Hi, To add just a bit to the helpful reply by the poster of this video... I've had quite a bit of experience with these shims. I've got hammer, trigger and cylinder shims in my Redhawk. The main reason for the hammer and trigger shims is because I polished both to a mirror finish and the shims 100% eliminated any scuffing/rubbing on the frame (plus the action is smoother). Now, on the cylinder shims, you will have to fire a massive amount of rounds through your gun before you MIGHT notice a need to replace them but that's highly unlikely. If you remove your cylinder (which usually does not require removal of the hammer or trigger housing-just the grips for room) every 200-300 rounds or so and flush with WD 40 or Ballistol, you'll be fine. Even without shims, it's a good practice because the yoke does collect quite a bit of fouling. The shims will come out but it takes some time to get them loose if you put oil/grease around the yoke. But it's not necessary to remove them to clean if you clean as I mentioned above. Hope this helps.

Yes, it should work the same.

It's nothing to worry about getting worse. It gives the gun a better feel and more efficient operation when shooting, and gets rid of the scratching on the hammer.

Yes. On the Alaskan it measured .006" The 7½" measured. 007" I can feel that the Alaskan is slightly tighter. I did try a thicker shim, but it made closing the cylinder tighter than I thought it should be.

If its under warranty Ruger will make it right, but I don't know about if it's used though for free. Are you in Commifornia?