Du wirst Freude daran haben, ist ein super Bausatz. short skirts make sexy tanks ; )

Thanks mate : )

Thank you - I hope they're not too formal ; )

I think its just the right amount, not too much, not too little

Thanks for watching Panzermeister36, good to read that im not too far off with my experience so far. I will use atak much more often in the future.

Thank you Vic, next will be up on Thursday.

Nope, I thank you for watching : )

Thank you Phil.

Thank you Steve.

Thanks mate. It goes together fine, I'm sure yoe have a good time with it. Happy modelling : )

Thank you panzer-meister. Aktak Zimmerit is very thin indeed, for some modelers not thin enough ; ) 2nd best option after molded Zimmerit imho.

Thank you and welcome, in case you have any questions - feel free to ask.

Thanks mate : ) I'm looking forward the next part too xD Editing looks well so far ; )

Danke Joachim, durchaus etwas aufwendiger gewesen als meine bisherigen Projekte. Ich drück mir mal selbst die Daumen dass das mit dem Erdreich und Schlamm hinhaut, dann ist der letzte Schritt überstanden ; ) Grüße Kai

Thanks mate, wouldn't we need a Panther G for the area you mentioned?

@@TankbrusherAs far as I know, there were also late ausführung A Panthers present.

I'll have a look into to clash there. I've seen most early Ausf. A assigned to the east and Hungary. For a later Version Pz.-Lehr Div. would have been my choice. (I dont like the double s guys. ; )

Danke Dir. Das Zimmerit ist kein Hexenwerk und geht recht gut von der Hand. Solltest Du die Finger an langsam trocknenden Sekundenkleber bekommen, wäre das die bessere Wahl. Grüße

Thanks mate! Since you are a car enthusiast mate, can you recommend a model kit of a vehicle from the very first days of automobiles? I'd like to build something civilian soon, but nothing modern, somewhat more victorian age would be fun : ) Regards Kai

@@Tankbrusher you could build the ICM 1/24 scale Renault Type AG 1910 car, or any of the ICM 1/24 1911 Model T's

@@thescalemodelcarguychannel8681 Thank you, that's exactly the kind of vehicle I had in mind. ICM, would not have thought of them.

thanks mate and welcome

jup mate, I've got the old Jagdtiger (Porsche suspention) by Dragon - that has to be a labour of love in order to complete it xD Takoms approach is not bad - we just have to plan in some time to let the glue harden trough. These tracks look great and base cost of the kit is about 30€ all in all that's not matched by anything I did build so far.

Franken... nach Franken bitte ; ) Danke Dir und viel gute Hobbyzeit mit deinem : )

Danke Dir, hab mich bei Dir auch angemeldet. Meine Glückwünsche zu deinem ersten Meilenstein. Grüße

Hey zirrian, that running gear works great - I'm preproducing a lot of panthers in background (mainly for 3D modelling stuff) currently using it on 4 Tigers and 12 Panther D + one A - works perfectly fine. Have a greate time with yours this weekend!

@@Tankbrusher thanks for the encouragement! I got the kit and it's really nice - and even without the interior it's a really tight packed massive box...

They don't look bad, atm I'm replacing nearly every track with 3d printed ones. If not for dteail than for convinience and time safeing.

Yeah this is my first ever kit and it seems I may have chosen a rather difficult one as my starting point! Next time I might try buying a set of 1/35 metal tracks.

@@zekeboy24 As a first kit, it's rather a challange but you will do fine with them in no time. For the start, have a look at smaller part count kits like Tamiya does them, it's an more easy way in. Metal tracks are fine if you intent to use burishing liquid for all other matters they are outdated and outperformed by 3DP since 3DP is higher detail, faster cleaing and assembling as well as more easy to paint

Hey Byrne, thank you for the advice, I'm curious and willing to learn. I solved my issues by simply using paints along the Gunze/Tamiya/(old)Real Color line. H&S Airbrushes seem to like very thin paint best - they are illustrator tools after all. A tamiya paint together with MrLevelingThinner leaves such a nice thin and even paint coat while giving a lot of control. I use my (water solvable) acrylics for brushwork most of the times. Thanks for the subscription, new video will be up next week.

Hi Gavin, I went back an watched your Vlog again. I might have some advice. Mig Acrylic have a lot of additives, they did put properties over product appearance, speration of additves and paint as a feature despite it looking wrong to us costomers. It triggers me into thinking we have to use it exactly as they intended them to be used. Mig has a good tutorial on his channel. Your pre shading dissapearing under the paint is normal and subject to how opaque the paint is. we can not thin acrylics over 50% but we can add medium, mig calls it transparator i think. Spraying "dirty" thinner instead of paint only works for lacquer in my experience. I completed about 4k point worth of WH AoS undead using Vallejo Game Air and mig Acrylics but treated them as two totaly different products leading to no issues during the process. Flow Improver is basicly glycerin - thick alcohol working as a retarder, thinner and counter acting surface tension, I'm under the impression that mig paints have already enough retarder in them. sorry for telling you things you might already know, just trying to be helpful, mate : )

Thanks marra no i didn't know any of what you told me so its all good to know for another build and you put it in your easy to understand style so many thanks ! Regards Gav.

yes, true.

Thanks Adam. I have Tamiya paints as well, mostly for primary colors since these RCs were only available in these special mixtures. Good experience with both types so far, but I'm under the impresson of having higher pigment densitiy with the RCs in direct compersion. The Interior Version is a undertaking, had a look at it when it came out, but seen no chance for me completing it without loosing interest along the way. For me it needs to be finished as long as it is still fun : /

Hi, I like what Das Werk did, three different Panther A Kits, getting Atak on board... I would like to build more kits like this one. Yeah, Dragon, I feel with you, it's a sunken star... Dragon 6263 should have magic tracks(?!), had a short look at some reviews, they should be fine. If you can confirm, I'll have a look into the Panzerketten (Tank Track) Book for you.

Pz. II Ausf. F: Original Name: Kgs 67/300/90 Same tracks were used with: Pz.Kpfw. II Ausf: A,B,C and F; Sturmpanzer II; Marder II (7,5cm); Wespe; Maultier (Sd.Kfz. 4). Friul models ATL-30 are fine for this tank.

Tankbrusher Scale Modeling it did not super tracks, evidently they made a revision at some point, the rest of the kit seems premium except for those horrible foam tracks, thanks for the cross reference, I’ll keep an eye out on eBay for a set, I wish we could buy sets direct from dragon, if this was a large kit like a tiger 2 etc I might be willing to spend the $50 for metal but a plastic set is all this kit demands, it is a small set.

Thanks Nathan. I ended up using generic CA now, that worked very well on my past tow zimmerit builds - havn't got a video up on them unfortunatly.

Thanks mate! I'm already aware of that. There are many opinions about why water-based acrylics don't work for "in scale" camo, there are more things involved from viscosity to nozzle design. In the end Lacquer and Alcohol based paints are doing a much better job for me. If you don't use the technique you described, you get a lot of splattering ; ) Not stopping the airflow helps too to keep the needle from clogging.

@@Tankbrusher So you are using AK real collors with alcohol? Question: is Laques paints are better for harder and steenbeck airbrush then water based ? I got H&S airbrush with 0.2 and 0.4 needle and noozle, but my cheap airbrush performs better then the H&S ...Im using AK acrylic and Valleyo. I prefer Vallejo.

@@Harimaru1337 Never quote me on chemstry ; ) My H&S 0,15 + 0,4mm performes best with A&K Lacquer mixed with Tamiya Lacquer thinner when we talk about camo. For Basecoats I use very often Tamiya XF paints as well as A&K Lacquer (thier real color series is lacquer, while Tamiya XF seems to be not(?!)) mixed with Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner. Both thinners make the paint behaive very differently. I did read some ppl writing about H&S being more suited to very thin paints in general - in the end they are illustrator tools not modeling tools. I kind of tend to use water desolveable acryilcs (Ammo, Vallejo) only for brushwork and airbrushing warhammer figures (mixing, shading switching colors is much faster there - with just a bucked of water between my legs. Solvent based paints take too long to switch them out for me.)

; ) At some point I'll have a look into a cut away kit, till than I avoid full interiors when its a fully enclosed vehicle. My vk 3601 has at least some Interior... Dragon has beatuifull 38(t) Interior, if they choose to put it in a box - on these vehicle it's easy to make it visible, motor and transmission hatch open will expose most and make a stunning model to look at : )

Hi, thanks for the advice. I've not yet seen that one by Tamiya. Since building that Panther I stocked up on some different industrial CA glues. Atm I do work with a thick, slow gel drying one and a thin instant type. Got myself, activator, filler and debonder as well - totaly different story now. I will try to get the ammo by mig ones as well since getting debonder to work cross brands is somewhat random unfortunatly.

@@Tankbrusher Indeed makes sense. Thanks for your reply.

Hallo Martin, danke für das Kompliment vorweg. Der Bausatz ging super von der Hand, wird Dir besstimmt gefallen. Kannst Du etwas spezifischer sein an welchem Teil des Turms Du einen geometrischen Fehler vermutest? Mich interessiert das durchaus! Das Modell steht zwar grad im Elternhaus, plotte aber gerne ne Zeichnung aus und prüfe in zwei Wochen nach. Bin grad mit Dragons Ausf. D beschäftigt, da muss der 3D Drucker ran ; ) Grüße Kai

Hi, the wheels were painted before put the tracks on. Tracks were sprayed seperatly of cause. For the camo and white wash I had it as solid module with the tracks glued on, looking at some references, the tracks got a fair share of the field applied paint treatment as well. It would be hard to paint the rubber rims once you glue on the tracks, but having the wheels glued to eachother and the tracks off, it is no problem still getting in there.

Tankbrusher Scale Modeling thanks. Maybe you can do a short video on the unit painting process. And also how u deal with tracks and unit together. It is toughest part for me.

@@xinquisitor666x I'll see what I can do. I did not film painting the wheels, but have some wip footage. I'll cover it in better detail in the upcoming king tiger next mounth. And include what i have in next part next week

Tankbrusher Scale Modeling perfect. I have this kit sitting on my desk. I will transship atak zimerit to US through Switzerland lol my work. Can’t get that stuff anywhere here :( by the time zimmerit gets here I hope u will post king tiger :) I just built dragon one. Hunting for Jagdtiger kit now (pun intended). Any thoughts on which JT kit is best?

@@xinquisitor666x You could ask MBK directly as well, they are able to communicate in English for sure. that's modellbau-koenig.de site seem to be multilinqual too

As far as I know MBK is getting into the US Market. Andy (Hobbyheadquater) did show some Das Werk products not long ago.

Tankbrusher Scale Modeling Andy has kits. I bought this panther there. But no zimmerit. Alas I found a roundabout solution.

Nope, you need to buy it seperate. They branded a few batches with "Das Werk". Das Werk is very active in colaborating with other companies.

@@Tankbrusher thank you

Ich erwische mich mich immer wieder dabei ,,Wasser"-Acryilfarben zu verwenden - taugt einfach nicht. Hätt ich den direkt mit Lack angefangen, hätte es hinterher keinen Whitewash gebraucht ; ) Vom Dialekt täuscht Du dich gewaltig. Bin aus dem Fränkischen auf BaWü Seite - kann kein Hochdeutsch, versuch ich mich daran klingt's als wäre ich aus Saxoniae...

@@Tankbrusher klang echt wie sächsisch ;0) nutze auch acryl beim brushen,was sonst.endergebnis ja gut!aber die tarnung an sich sah...naja aus.aber sieht man am ende ja nicht!lg

Hab in ca drei Wochen nochmal einen Kursk Panther fertig, der lebt eher vom Tarnanstrich als der hier. Meine Erfahrung mit Acryl (wasserlöslich) ist durchweg negativ, zuletzt an der Flak 38 das gleiche Spiel erlebt, tue ich mir nicht wieder an - obs jetzt an mir als Anwender lieg, den Farben oder den Luftpinseln lass ich mal offen : )