*** UPDATE to the video *** Under the sensor is a small screen. I had it but was told by a few people it wouldn't be necessary to replace it so I didn't. A few hours after installing the sensor and uploading this video I took the truck for a ride and the warning came back on. I brought it home, took the sensor back out, fished out the screen and replaced it. I drove the vehicle again and all seems to be well... My suggestion is to also replace the screen.

27MM!!! 27MM!!! 27MM!!! 27MM!!! 27MM!!! 27MM!!! Great video, thanks. Just swapped mine out on my 2012 Silverado in less than 10 minutes thanks to this. I used a 3/8 straight ratchet -> 5" extension -> 3/8 to 1/2 adapter -> 1/2 swivel -> 27mm socket.

Going be replacing the sensor for the 2nd time and just glad that I saved this video from the first time replacing it. Gotta love videos like this!

Dave I’ve been a subscriber for quite some time now. I saw this video a while ago and thought “I’ll never have to do that”. Well here I am watching this video as I now have to replace this sensor on my own truck. Thank you very much for the video and for everything else that you do!

This video was very helpful, along with the comments others made about their experience doing the job. I struggled a little to get the screen out, but it turns out the 1/4" extension fits snugly into the screen, pulled out easy.

Way to go Dave! I am always cautious when it comes to working on my cars/trucks, so I end up taking them to the dealership. You had great advice from your mechanic. Now go and enjoy the rest of your day off!

Excellent, excellent video, to the point in landscape mode and no LOUD distracting (C)rap imitation music in the background.

Was just seeing another video to replace same sensor, needed to take the whole intake manifold out to reach it, find your video lot more helpful, thanks brother!!!

Dude, thank you so much for explaining this. First video to actually make sense of where everything is and how to do it.

Good job. I have a 2014 Yukon and I’m sure one day I will need to replace mine. Thanks for showing us how 😎👍

I have an 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500. Thanks to this video, and having small hands lol, changing the sensor should be fairly easy. 🤞🏼 look forward to more videos like this…? 😊

Love that you’re trying new stuff. Much respect for the amount of work you’re putting in.

I just wanna thank you, this video showed me so easily how to do it

DUDE! Thank you. You just saved me like 3-4 hours easy, and some soul searching.

I'm fixing to tackle this on the same exact year truck. Thanks for the video.

This is amazing,my Gm dealer just called me and wanted $900 Canadian plus taxes to do the same thing

Great video 👊💪🏁 I've got the same dumb problem and yes Chevy says replace the screen. Thanks!!

I find it very satisfying to do automotive repairs myself. Bravo Dave!!

One dealer to another, thanks for the video. It was exactly what I needed to knock the job out!

Well done man. I'm in North Alabama with an oil pressure problem. I am optimistic replacing the sensor solves it. I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Hopefully with the sensor replacement I will be back up and running. With your instruction, I now know what tools I need and the steps to take. 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with the 5.3L V8.

Mine truck is a 2012 and the light came on. I did a google search and your video popped up first. So thank you very much for doing this video.

Thanks for the video. Fixin a do this job right now. Was wondering if the screen was necessary but read ur update so I’m gonna do it.

Good to see someone in sales getting dirty and making repairs the right way...especially for dear ole dad...kudos

I will be attempting this soon. Already have the socket. Was just waiting for the weather to cool off. Not looking forward to hitting the “point of no return” and pushing through. But can only imagine how much a mechanic would charge due to how difficult it is to reach the sensor.

Tried replacing a sensor today and man.. you make it look so easy! The lack of space is brutal. Thought I had the sensor threaded in properly and it popped out as it cross threaded. Super annoying!

Great video…I was thinking about taking it in but now I might do it. Thanks for sharing!

You made it look easy I’ve been at it for 45 minutes I CANNOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTOR YET😡 YOU did a GREAT job thanks for putting that video together❤️🇺🇸

First one of these I've seen that you can actually see it pretty well. I think when I do mine I'm going to use my camera also to help me see better, although it's definitely a feel kind of operation. I'm here in January 2024, 3 years after this was made and after he made the update in the pinned comment. While watching it I was wondering why he didn't change the screen/filter element underneath the switch, his update explains that he did go back and do so. Everything I've seen so far indicates you definitely should replace the screen as it could be clogging up at times, and a new one comes with the switch anyway so while you're there, swap it out too for sure.

The filter below the sensor seems to gunk up and cause problems. To get it out I’d recommend using a “curved blackhead tool” (the one that kind of looks like a hook). Sounds weird but will save you a lot of time. Great video btw

I did this on our Yukon a couple of days ago. I tied some twine around the new sender so I could retrieve that if I dropped the sender while trying to get that started threading. If I ever have to do again, I'm removing/cutting away some of that plastic guard.

I needed to see this my oil hand jus stopped moving in my 2011 chevy 5.3 liter v8 jus like wat u was wrk on my truck has oil tha hand jus stopped GREAT VIDEO

GREAT Video! Replacement on our 2007 Silverado was exactly as described in this video. Part was $50. Borrowed the socket from our local auto parts store. Installation took about 30 minutes. Thanks Dave, you saved me hundreds of dollars.

This is the best video I’ve watched on how to do this. There’s at least 5 I watched that tell you to take off the brake booster line, the Pcv line, and the fuel line. I didn’t have to take off any of this and I was done in a about an hour. I used a 27mm socket with a 1/2 to 3/8s adapter, swivel joint, 6” extension and a 3/8s straight non-swivel socket wrench.The hardest part for me was removing the clip, but i had it off in 5-10 minutes. Great video!

Thank you for your help. I'm about to tackle this right now. Your video was very helpful.

I found it easier to use a swivel extension instead of the wobble while still using the 6 inch extension. Took care of the problem of not having room to turn the ratchet! 👍

I have the same Silverado and have had to replace that sensor 3 times. The first time took me all day because I did not see any videos to help. Anyway I hope your new sensor lasts longer than mine have

You lucky guy you. I'm here now trying to get this damn screen out. I wish I had a lag bolt around here. I'm about to pull one out of my wall mount for my tv. 😂. U did it like it wasn't a problem at all.

Just got it done took me about an hour and 15 minutes. It is very tight space but it is possible. Used a ratchet to break it loose, then finished it off with a Milwaukee electric ratchet.

Thank you for this video. Looks like I had a little less room on a 2011 Sierra than you did, but got my fat wrist in there and got it replaced. One tip might help others: Fill the empty space along side the motor with blankets or pillows to keep from crushing anything while laid across the top of the motor. Most of my weight was on the alternator, which is solid. I coulda taken a nap up there!

Great video. Very informative and helpful on how to do this job. My tool list that I found that worked great 27mm or 1 1/16 deep well 1/2 inch drive socket 1/2 inch swivel 1/2 to 3/8 adapter 3/8 drive 6 inch extension 3/8 ratchet Make sure to replace the screen filter. To get the screen filter out just use a normal pencil and stick the eraser side gently down the sensor opening and lightly with a little twist into the opening of the screen and pull it out. Works great When putting the sensor back in you can just use the socket and a 1/2 stubby ratchet to get it pretty close to tight , then use the rest of the adapters and extensions to tighten it the rest of the way

Great video man. I am going to be doing this this weekend. I appreciate the walk-through.

Awesome brotha! You should do more like this! You’re an excellent instructor! You little B lol

I'm a long-haul trucker and work on my own vehicles when I can & depending on how much trouble it will be. I was considering replacing this sensor myself. Thank you for the video. I now know I would rather pay someone else to do this rather than do it myself on 1 of my off days. 😂

Thanks man your videos have been very helpful

Dave, I bet your glad you don't have to worry about doing that stuff with your Chevy Bolt!

Excellent job!! Very informative, thank you!!

Hi Dave ,Thanks soooooo much great video, your the BEST my Brother from another Mother

Awesome video I hope you can also do more videos like this.

Wow this was extremely useful and informative because my oil pressure sensor went out too 😅 I have a 6.2 Yukon so hopefully it’s the same technique.

Same with my Chevy 98 the oil sensor is difficult to get to, had to buy special socket but got it

Thank you very much for showing me!!

Hell yeah, nice hat! Arte is the business! Can't wait to join! Also... thank you for this video! I needed that!

Nice. I believe there is a piece in the sensor that breaks off and usually has to be fished out.

Great video Dave! 👍

Solid video! Thanks!!

Disconnect the rubber hose from the top that is blocking the ratchet from going on ,it will make it much easier. Also . If anything comes with a new screen always replace the screen . Screens protect the actual item from anything befor the item goes out .great video also . Found this a day after i was done doing mine 😂

Nicely done, thanks!

I did this oil pressure sensor job in my 2006 Silverado 2500HD with a 6.0L V8 after I noticed the oil pressure gauge was nearly maxed out at 80 PSI even with the engine not running. This job was extremely difficult. I couldn’t see any of the area behind the engine. I had to use my phone camera to survey the area then do everything by touch and feel. I barely had space to squeeze my hand behind the engine block to reach the sensor. After I disconnected the cable from the sensor, I turned the key without starting engine and the gauge was at zero. So, I knew this was certainly a bad sensor. I had to remove the 13mm bolt next to the sensor in order to get a 27mm 8-point socket on it; this didn’t work at all. I tried a 27mm 6-point socket, which was better but wasn’t fully seated and I feared I might break the bad sensor if I forced it. So, I sprayed some penetrating oil on the sensor threads overnight while I obtained the actual 1 1/16” socket made for the sensor and it worked perfectly. Of course, GM engineers that planned the location for the sensor left me bloody and bruised after working back there and my knees on top of the engine. But, in the end, success. I refuse to let inanimate objects defeat me. And, I think I save hundreds of dollars if I had to pay a mechanic to remove the entire intake for much easier access. Doing this job on the on trucks with smaller engines is probably much easier.

You should do more videos like this man

I bet even if you had to buy that socket it’s still cheaper than at the dealer, especially if they have to follow GM protocol and remove a bunch of the engine. Great video!

Thanks a million saved a lot of money great video

EXCELLENT, super helpful.

Bro your a life saver!!

YOU CAN DO IT.. 2003 Chevy 5.3 LM7 it did not have the screen. I’m 70 years old and YES, you can replace the oil pressure sending unit WITHOUT taking the intake manifold off. I have the scratched hands to prove it . Just take the engine cover off. Used the following tools….. Special oil pressure sending unit socket $6.00 at NAPA. 3/8” X 6” wobble extension. 3” extension. 3/8” universal adapter. Standard 3/8 drive socket. I found the easiest way to access the sensor was to climb on top of the engine from the front . If you are left handed, good luck…. The hardest part I had was trying to get the new sensor started without cross threading it…

yours is in a much better position than mine (2004 Avalanche). Mine is at least a foot down below the level of the intake manifold

What about this screen that came with the sensor? Ok just read your update! Thanks!!! Changing my it on my fathers truck.

Did you push or pull the blue tab to get connector off? About to tackle this plus replace screen

Great video Thankyou for your help

Can you send me the link where you bought your new sensor and screen please. I’ve heard a lot of the off brand ones don’t work very well.

Great video thankyou for your help.

Love it. Thank you!!!

So as I was working on this the old oil pressure sensor decided to shear off. Any advice on this nightmare

Awesome job

thanks for video hello from Puerto Rico 👍

Nice work 👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻

Great video Dave . 👍👍👍👍🤘🤘🤘🤙🤙

Best flashlights!

Over 200k on my 2011 Sierra now. Guy I got it from at 195k was using Rotella 5w30 synthetic, and it smoked a ton at startup. I first put in an odbII AFM disabler from Amazon for $80. Still smoked. I then switched oil to Mobil1 10w/30 high mileage, and bam, no more smoke. Just wondering now if this is why this sensor went bad, and if it'll go bad again after I just replaced it. Working great for now! Ideas?

Exelent good teaching

Great job man.

My 07 Tahoe says low oil pressure, stop engine,, and I have white smoke from tailpipe, could this be the same issue?

Super good video

Loved this.

The sensor was super easy to replace less than five minutes to do it didn’t need any special tools whatsoever all I used was a 1 1/16 deep half inch drive socket with a half inch drive swivel and a half inch drive ratchet and that’s all you need

This video is gold!! I need to do this on my 04 Tahoe, sensor went out about a month ago. Can you list the tools you used with sizes? You Might be onto a new new channel; Dave fixes Chevy’s 😎

Thank you good job

I am wondering why when you removed the bad sensor you didn’t remove the yellow compression insert and put it in the new sensor before you installed it ? Or did you as the new sensor doesn’t have that little yellow compression that holds the screen tight and keeps oil from leaking?

Where can I get a driver door interior panel. Black. With handle on bottom 2012

where did you get the socket?? I need to do mine as well

Is Joe a real person? 😆 thanks for the tip GOD bless!👍

What about the filter did you replace that?

I have a 2018 5.3 and my gauge starting going crazy. Gave me reading of 60lbs at idle. When driving went to 70-80. Next ignition cycle. Normal. I’m guessing it might be the problem.

Hey Dave, thanks for the video and explanations on how to replace the oil pressure sensor/switch. How did you end up getting the screen out though? A small pick or something? Thanks in advance.

On the connector there is a white lock you need to lift it with a pick are long thin screwdriver till it CLICKs and stays up in place. Then under it you can push in with a screwdriver to release the retaining clip. When released the connector slides off easy. The hose in the way is the brake booster vacuum hose to released it from the intake push in on the red retainer. To get the screen out use a 2" X 5/16" lag screw run it in with your fingers LIGHTLY TILL IT STOPS lift the screen out. Install the new screen push it in with your fingers then install the sensor. If you are brave you can cut some of that plastic out of your way be carful. All in said and done the intake is easy to remove, the intake seals and lower injector seals are a known leaker. I would never put those injectors back with the old seals. If you use the old lower seals injector to intake you are asking for a big air leak. I can not remember if a LS with AFM/DOD has the knock sensors under the intake. Those two knock sensors under the intake on earlier LS are a pattern issue go get them while you have the intake off always replace the knock sensor harness. Lastly make sure you do not get the knock sensor harness caught between the intake seals to head. After a sensor replacement Its not uncommon for the OP gauge to take a bit to show pressure. IF no pressure cut it off walk away from it on the third start it usually wakes up (bleeds the air out) That's my story and I am sticking to it.

Thank for the inspiration

Was there a rattling coming from the engine before you replaced it

what length extension was that? almost looked like 6 inch?

Super. And helpful.

What kind of socket/extender are you using?

Hey what type of socket is it I couldn’t see what it said and he didn’t say