Michael, delighted to hear it. 8,000 grit is a very nice polishing stone. 10 and 15 thousand are only very slightly better.

Craig, it is the Lie-Nielsen guide. David

Gary, 8,000 excellent. you might find 1500 a little slow, but I'm not sure about this. I use 8oo. Best wishes, David

I think your wire edge may be larger than necessary. You see me dragging the back onto the corner of the polishing stone. This is to ensure the wire edge is not trapped underneath. Stones need flattening all the time, so I have not had this problem. Hope this helps, David

Think you may be right about me honing too much - I've since honed my honing!!!! Thanks

If the back of the plane blade is polished enough to start with (hone back first, if necessary), and if you polish the bevel to high enough grit (chromium strop), i find the wire edge will clean break off on one pass, flat on the fine stone. Or even if you rub your fingers across the back of thr blade, past the edge.

Baxter King 800 as the coarse stone and King 10,000 as the polishing stone. The small one is a Nagura, which comes with the polishing stone. David

So David, you are telling me you regularly go straight from an 800 to a 10,000 stone?

@@jonspracklen3738 yes he does. He puts a microbevel so small it comes off on the 800 grit stone later on.

Tony, 8,000 grit is totally satisfactory, I used one for years. When it wore out I got the 10,000, which is very nice. The difference between the micron grit size of the two is very small. Best wishes.

I grind at 25 degrees, get a wire edge on an 800 stone at 30 degrees, and then polish on 10,000 at 32 degrees. David

Or, just maybe, this wasn't meant as a comprehensive sharpening instructional video...

The only aim was to show that sharpening should be fast. The full story for chisels is on my fourth DVD and for plane blades on my first. They are both much longer! David

@@DavidCharlesworth Does your dvd's cover restoration of old chisels/planes, which are in poor condition?

Well it's an interesting comment, but then I've never heard of you and a significant percentage of the community of "serious" woodworkers in the western world (not hackers or site joiners to whom a gap of 5mm in a joint is acceptable) have heard of and learned important skills from David C. So... yeah, your comment, invalid.

Leslie Cherrington I'm just an apprentice but I swear to christ every journeyman who has said this to me I don't take seriously a honing guide is to aid the accuracy of the grind and honing angle so it can slice and pare the wood fibers rather than bull it's way around timber as it would even with a minuscule round or uneven pressure

Im time served joiner retired now we was shown how to sharpen the real way i bought one it was took of ne and never saw it again good lesson i say do it by hand till its right you will never look back

my first journeyman had pocketed it and I'm glad he did, it was to make an example, and because he did, i did learn to do it the old school way i understand how good a skill for my career it was because there is a knack and it does take a great deal of skill, although having done both, and given the choice, i would go for the honing guide its a great piece of kit and i will never understand the stigma around it, i feel we all however can agree that the guide has its place, perhaps not in every tradespersons toolbox but no matter the opinion of the tool, it is fact that it is, to the sharpening stone as is a fence is to a saw. cheers for your advice though sir i'll certainly take on board what you've said as I'm only second year I've still a lot to learn as of yet

Some real tradesmen use honing guides, and some don't. Some real tradesmen have big mouths, and some don't. Big mouths don't build cabinets.