He uses autosol on it.

+Jaime Clifton Thanks. I'll give it a go.

What is autosol?? And where might I get some information about it?

@@mrtablesawfulit’s just chrome tailpipe polish, t-cut etc, goes by many names. Aluminium oxide ?

Paul, thank you. Well spotted, that shim over the yoke peg is very un-glamorous card! I was experimenting with simple ways of reducing backlash. Since then I have come up with a slightly more sophisticated cap of folded brass shimstock. This is working very well.

Thanks for having asked that, Paul! I thought the plane was brand new, and it was something from Veritas factory, like a tag, a shim, a label, or something like that, and David would remove it before using the plane.... And then, I saw your question.... 👍🏻

@@DavidCharlesworth I noticed the shim right away and it clicked instantly. Brilliant idea!

Yes. You do not want a tight mouth for this technique. David

Karl, no trapped shavings! The angle of ruler trick bevel is about 2/3rds of one degree. All my C/Bs have a relief angle of approximately 1 1/2 degrees. So contact is always at the front edge of C/B David

Somehow I dismissed preparing the chip breaker with a relief angle as an unnecessary step on a modern, premium bevel-down hand plane as-received from Lie Nielsen. I now see that it's covered in your 2004 DVD Hand Tool Techniques Part 2: Hand-Planing. It appears that DVD has been re-released in 2016. It appears to be 20 minutes longer. Is there enough new/improved 2-DVD presentation to justify it to someone who has watched the old one closely? It is reasonably priced at $30 USD.

+Marcelo, look at what is available from planeperfect.com. Not exactly the same but similar purpose. David

Pull stroke helps beginners not to gouge soft waterstones with narrow chisels. On hard oilstones many would go back and forward. Best wishes, David

It looked at me like he was using that as a shim

I wonder if it has something to do with slop, or maybe it just adds that much more of a tighter fit.

Jonas, The majority of squaring work should be done on a grinder. Then if the stone is flat straight should be no problem. Particularly if grinding angle is 25 degrees and honing angle is 30 degrees. David

@@DavidCharlesworth But how did they insure the stone was flat?

@@jonasdaverio9369 An old recipe for flattening oilstones was to rub with water and silver sand on a York paving stone! Today probably valve grinding paste on scrap glass. Japanese Waterstones very easy to flatten with wet & dry on float glass. David

Did the make York paving stones specifically to be flat?

Jonas, I could help you if you were in my workshop! What grade of Waterstone do you have? David

Andrea, My camber is very small and I have had no problems with using it for edge jointing. Best wishes, David

@@DavidCharlesworth I have changed my type of sharpening watching your video on Lie Nielsen site and i found it very effective,thank you very much also for the answer!! ;)

Charles, I wish I could show you. Whereabouts are you? David

@@DavidCharlesworth right smack in the middle of Central Maine USA. I'm only a little more than an hour away from the LIE Neilsen toolworks. Because their showroom is closed to the general public cuz of the virus, I can't go up there and have them help me out, which under different circumstances would be happy to do. There is a little distance between us wouldn't you say mate? Thanks for offering. Maybe Instagram Telephone video. I've been frustrated for years trying to figure this out where I'm going wrong. Everyone makes it seem so easy. The end result I have to deal with is added pressure on the forward movement of my planes because they're not sharp enough. I have no more hair on my head to pull

@@DavidCharlesworth I haven't heard back from you. Perhaps you have been too busy. I watched your video on how to polish a flat chipbreaker. Interesting indeed. How do you go about polishing a standard Stanley chip breaker?

@@Marrio49 Charles, Just about the same way. Its 12-16 now so I am off to bed.

@@Marrio49 did you ever figure it out? I use wet sandpaper and don't have any problem... Maybe that is worth a shot? You can get high grit packs at home depot/Lowes very cheap (600, 1000, 2000, 3000) and you can easily cut hair at 2k or 3k grit. But if you want to go higher woodcraft sells the 3M micron stuff for like $5 a sheet. Also, do you use a jig or freehand? I get better results with a jig, for sure. Finally, I'd ask if the iron you are using is possible on the cheaper/foreign side? Unless you've tried multiple vintage or boutique blades, then nevermind on that.