Sure is.

My logi g940 wore out or I'd still be using it. Sorry that they didn't make a 2nd generation version...

we do have modern ffb peripherals. sure its a little pricier than a second hand sidewinder or g940. but be sure to check out brunner in switserland. i have the brunner cls-e ffb joystick base with a virpil mongoost50cm2 stick on it. also virpils 200mm s curve extension. mainly bought it for helo force trim. been flying the ka-50 since 2009 and never could get used to any of the dcs trim simulated ways with a spring stick. yeah it costs 1250 euros just for the ffb base but for my hobby completely worth it. now i want brunners ffb pedals though.

@@CasmoTV check out my reply to redkite in this thread. brunner really is worth looking into for rotorheads ;}

@@kingpinda2 Yeah I'm aware of that one, but far too poor to be buying one sadly.

I know. I’m just lazy.

Yeah my brother, less is more when driving a helo

Center trimming mode for those who do large steady movements holding trim, and then when flying as wanted, release it and center joystick. Instant is for those who do continued trim clicking, tiny movement from joystick center to direction you need to go and press, press, press... as long your flight attitude is as you like, and then center the joystick. And of course at first better to separate pedals trimmer to avoid working with two, just hold pedals at first as needed, concentrate to learn joystick. Then later add pedals if needed.

I agree. How is this different than the black shark? Do people have a problem with that too? For me personally I also find the center stick mode to work perfectly as you dont have to react immediately and can take your time to center the controls and make control adjustments from there. Stablize, trim, center controls, profit. This is better than this mode imo which is similar to how the black shark worked which I still didnt really have a problem with.

It’s not a question of “which is better”. I don’t cate who uses what. As long as it works for you it’s perfect.

I used this method too and found it reliable. The method in the video seems unrealistic, a huge constrai n and a waste of time. Ain´t nobody got time for that during combat :D

Same here. Used to it from Black Shark. It just depends, on what ppl like more.

Hope indeed. Would make things a lot easier at times.

except if you use hardware trim. with brunner cls2sim software i set up force trim via the brunner software so i can recenter my stick even out of game. in dcs i just set it up as springless stick and change the pitch curve so it maxes out faster when pitching down. that way with my 200mm extension i dont have to hang forward. alot of planes also have less deflection in the pitch down range so now i use that as well in choppers.

Just change the settings in the “Special” manu to “Stick with centering and no FFB”, you won’t have to do any immediate releases, it’ll trim to current position, they you can let go off the stick gently.

The gazelle has very odd flight modeling. It is like designed for centering joystick that your attitude doesn't move when you have joystick at center. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hpmnn9Ckr820gmw.html That is flown just with a keyboard, only utilizing one control at the time, and only collective at first and after that just pedals when in air. Cyclic is not touched at all at any given moment (if you do, you basically die because you can't center quickly the cyclic with keyboard arrow keys, and any input is constantly adding degree/second so you will quickly flip over. In that video the trim system is disabled, and is that another a autopilot or something. So Gazelle should be completely on-hands without any assistance helping to fly.

Yeah, my issues were right at take-off and coming back to a hover. Once, I finally got a good set of axis tuning all my issues when away. I never spent much time in the past flying helicopters. But I got back into them several years ago. Once I found the video that was with a gazelle pilot , he went in detail about the axis tuning in DCS for the Gazelle. Then everything changed for me flying it. So, after some research and some settings adjustments. I was all good.

@@CueDriver You can get Gazelle easy to fly, but it still doesn't fly realistic manner at all. If the purpose is to just get Gazelle fly around battlefield and have fun, then it is possible even without any controls adjustments (far more challenging if you have short joystick and throttle as collective, easier if you have extended and collective with pedals). But again it doesn't fly like real Gazelle does. The major problem with Gazelle is that you need to forget everything how real helicopters work to fly Gazelle. And then after flying Gazelle, you need to forget everything how Gazelle flies to fly other helicopters. To fly gazelle zig-zagging between trees on the roads, under bridges, under trees even etc, you don't need to use pedals or collective, just cyclic is enough. Just get the mindset "I am flying a airplane" and you are golden. That is why I don't fly Gazelle anymore because you die first when you try to fly it like a helicopter. And then you can't switch to other helos as you die in those as you try to fly them like Gazelle. The Viviane targeting system is as well unrealistic, it has magical INS and ground locking, while it should only have a weaker gyroscope, very low resolution FLIR and anyways behave less effectively but similarly as the Raduga sight in Mi-24P, so gunner needs to compensate for any Gazelle movement in pitch and yaw. There is no weapons recoil at all, making Gazelle very easy to engage targets and accurately. I ended up when I realized that I was flying constantly from left seat, and then I just used Viviane to target threats and shoot them from the move while flying around them. It was easy to do both simultanously.

@paristo yep, she is my fun flying chopper. When things are more serious I grab the heavier ones.

Yeah same problem, collective is super sensitive in the Apache.

Thank you

Glad it helps.

Glad to hear it helped.

Same

Non-Centering/springless mode user here. You don't use any other trimmer mode with it. Only difference to real thing, is lack of centering to trimmed position. But you use trim, because that trim button while can't move your joystick or require you to move it, will program the autopilot/ hold channels to have the authority virtually maintain the attitude you trimmed to. FF isn't required, just remove the spring and get extension to have great free moving cyclic. It makes flying so easy. And then can be added by various means a method to hold joystick where wanted so you can take your hands off.

There is a 3rd option in the settings, rudder without springs and ffb. Basically you have to keep constant pressure on the pedals. With a damper or weak spring is very useful.

@@after_midnight9592 thank you. Yes! I watched Redkite’s video today and found that out.

🤘🏻

Y E S! makes things easier ... for me. 😁

If there is a customer complaint about a topic; we will be there.

@@CasmoTV hehe thank you Casmo! I follow all your videos and value your expertise. I looked up the Brunner cls force feedback base. It looks fantastic but it’s like $2000 AUD :(

did the same and works perfect for me. I also removed the spring on my rudderpedals. Now it's so easy to fly

The roll to left at 120-130 knots is known bug. There is bug report that Bignewy closed, but confirmed to cause that rolling at high speed.

The D wasn’t a race horse either.

@@CasmoTV Haha very true…. I’ll try to keep it under 125 kts lol

@@paristo Thanks! Good to know that it’s a bug

Indeed the D is quite a cumbersome beast. Fly at 120kts, Army pilots do this because it makes the maths easier.....(finger counting is far better than whipping out your E6B flight computer 😂)

Some did. I did.

Well he is a real apache pilot...sooooo I think he has a grasp

@@Lucifer-qt9gh he has, but I can do it . Everybody has different styles. If you know when and where to trim you can get a very stable hover almost no wobbling.

Whatever it came with. I’m too chicken shit to try and take it apart to replace them.

@@CasmoTV Play around with the damper abit. They're pretty easy to access from the top once you remove the dust cover. I find that dialing a bit of damping helps offset the weight of the MCGU.

There is an automatic heading hold so you don’t have to use the pedals as much.

@@CasmoTV Do you know if this is this planned for the in game module Casmo ??

i have the brunner cls_e ffb base with virpils 200mm s curve extension and a virpil mongoost50cm2 stick on top just for force trimming choppers. the ffb effects in like the f-14 are mearly a bonus for me. its more than 900 dollars though but for me completely worth it.

Umm.. I will now!

They are replicated in the sim, but I don’t think they are operational. I’m curious whether they are being used in the actual aircraft.

You still have springs in your pedals? Why not disable trimmer yaw?

I'm thinking of chucking the hydraulic cart on the 412 and demo-ing the real system to help people understand if you want.

The Mi-8, Mi-24 and KA-50 has pedal trims. Those doesn't work with trim button, but separately. The pedals has solenoid to detect pressure to pedal and that triggers mechanical pedal movement. You can disable the pedals trim functions, but at that moment they become completely loose. So having pedals trimmer linked to trimmer button in cyclic is counter productive in those helicopters. Here is how those trimmer works. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aNFzZteI392oj3U.html When you have trimmed to heading, altitude and speed/roll angle, the autopilot channel gets Xx percentage authority to move your controls from trimmed position to maintain those values. Example in KA-50 it is 20% from trimmed position, if autopilot requires to move controls more than that, it can't as it is limited. And you can see how much autopilot has authority in each channel by looking those small windows with white line aligned with two white strips. When aligned, there is full authority to all directions. When edge of the window, the autopilot can't move controls further to maintain that channel.

I honestly don’t care what anyone does. As long as it works for you, do it.

@@CasmoTV enjoyed your vids immensely and appreciate the effort you’ve put in to this module and know the effort that goes in to these vids. I didn’t mean to criticize this one in any way, central trimming just seems to be very misunderstood. That’s all I was trying to say.

Its ok, until u try do very little trim adjustments and it wont apply those correction until u kick pedals... I hate this.

@@TylerPL Yeah, it may vary based on the resolution or quality of the pedals and other gear. Mine center really well so haven’t really had an issue like that. And some remove the springs altogether which would make it less convenient.

So what exactly is the difference between the default setting and the ffb? This (like so many other things) is not explained well enough in-game..

Can say that also. Love flying with the damper. And thx cas for sharing your knowlage with us. Very good instructor 😁

It’s not implemented yet

@@CasmoTV thanks

@@CasmoTV What about the automatic turn coordination, is that working as intended?

It’s got a lot going on to render

Those are hold modes and hold release.

@@CasmoTV looks like I'm gonna have to get my head in the manual and see what those modes are. Thank you

@@CasmoTV btw, do you think modifying the trimmer to mimic a regular trimming system (like the Huey one for example) is a viable option for ED? Or would that just be wrong?

@@boggy8557 the huey only has force trim doesnt it? the apache has it also but some autoassists to go with it just like for instance the black shark.

My advice- don’t mess with the stab. I never did. No reason to.

@@CasmoTV is there an auto function to it or best to just leave it flat?

Yeah it’s auto controlled.

I brand thee heretic!