Dent Repair - What Grits To Use and The Steps Using The Sunmight System

Рет қаралды 7,226

3 жыл бұрын

I am demonstrating what sandpaper grits to use and the steps to take for sanding paint and coatings to bare metal, shape and sand body filler, feather edge repair area, and get the repair area ready for prime and block.
For more information about SunMight USA Corp visit:
14943 Desman Road
La Mirada, CA 90638
www.sunmightusa.com
714-952-5020 - sales@sunmightusa.com
1. Wash the repair area with soap and water.
2. Wash the repair area with wax and grease remover.
3. Remove paint and coating to metal using 80 grit on a DA sander.
4. Blow repair area with compressed air.
5. Mix and apply body filler.
6. Lightly level body filler using 80 grit on a DA sander.
7. Apply guide coat to the repair area.
8. Minimize 80 grit scratches and feather edge using 180 grit on a DA sander.
9. Prepare surface for prime and block using 320 grit on a DA sander.
This channel offers step-by-step car and truck #repair training videos for the car enthusiasts, DIY, students, or the professional technician. The videos are easy to understand and taught by a Master ASE certified instructor. You will learn how you can get in your garage and work on your car or truck yourself and save money. You will learn about car maintenance, bondo, auto body repair, how to prep a car for paint, how to paint a car, headlight restoration, washing cars, polishing cars, waxing #cars,, parts installations, and much more.
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1. LKQ, the largest selection of used and aftermarket car parts. They have millions of parts ready to ship for your car project. collisionblast.com/LKQ
2. Chemical Guys, Great products for auto detailing your car inside and outside. collisionblast.com/ChemicalGuys
3. Automotive Paint Touch-Up, If you are looking for a paint touch-up kits for your car collisionblast.com/ATU
4. Haynes, Repair manuals for your car or motorcycle. collisionblast.com/Haynes
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The information provided in this video is for educational and informational purposes only and solely as a self-help tool for your own use. It is the responsibility of the viewer to First read the Technical Data Sheet, Material Safety Data Sheet, and any other instructions for each product, tool, or equipment used and to follow the safety recommendations of the manufacturer. DIY Auto Body and Paint assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. There are no warranties or guarantees of the results of the viewer after watching this video. The results will vary according to each individual’s talents, knowledge, and skills. Occasionally my videos may This video may contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. This helps support the channel and allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for your support.

Пікірлер: 19

@Gooddays000 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks its not enough for you we appreciate that you are teaching us

@CarAddictGarage 3 жыл бұрын

It's my pleasure

@ellenantwi680 2 жыл бұрын

Good job

@CarAddictGarage 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching and enjoy the video.

@goldhunter9641 3 жыл бұрын

You're a hell of a body man and I help a friend of mine in his collision repair shop he owns but body work and painting never gets old to me and between watching your videos and sprayway customs, y'all are my favorite by far on KZfaq

@CarAddictGarage 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Sam C. I appreciate that.

@goldhunter9641 3 жыл бұрын

@@CarAddictGarage Your Welcome And I'm Getting Ready To Attempt My First Try At Fiberglass Covering, The Outside Of A Subwoofer Speaker Box Built Out Of 3/4 Thick MDF Wood And I Hope I Don't Waste A Lot Of Money And Time Trying It

@CarAddictGarage 3 жыл бұрын

@@goldhunter9641 Are you using regular fiberglass to cover the box? Or that cloth type of material?

@goldhunter9641 3 жыл бұрын

@@CarAddictGarage I'm going to Walmart and buying enough fleece off of a roll from the fabric section, to cover the entire box and staple it on and then using the fiberglass resin and fiberglass mat in layers to cover the entire box. Then after sanding the fiberglass, I'll have to use regular body filler for any low spots before final sanding, so I can prime it and finally paint and clear it

@goldhunter9641 3 жыл бұрын

@@CarAddictGarage obscene a couple of boxes people have done but didn't watch their process and just a little bit of the beginning stages of it was all I really ever seen and I've watched a few different videos on KZfaq and it looks like quite a bit of work but a lot of people even in my area are interested in buying those types of enclosures for high-end car audio systems and they pay quite a lot of money for fiberglass work on the insides of their vehicles and also speaker enclosures and custom-made inner door panels

@toycoma98 2 жыл бұрын

320 just around it? Or go over the repair area with the 320 as well?

@ellenantwi680 2 жыл бұрын

Please where will I get the machine?

@bross63 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your very informative videos. This is a bit off topic of this video, but I’m hoping you can help me with a couple of questions. The first is will you please recommend a high quality clear coat (brand and specific product) that is available online? To follow is all the information about the project... I am about to repaint a 1985 Porsche 928 and will be using the original color of the car, garnet red metallic which is a very orangey red with a copper look to it in the sun. I’m doing the entire car including the jambs, inside and exposed portions of the doors (but not the entire inside where the panel will cover it), and probably not the inside of the hood. I can only find the paint in waterborne. This is my first complete car respray. I’m estimating a gallon of paint, but that color doesn’t cover well, so I may need more. What are your thoughts about how much paint will be needed? Also, how much each of primer, surfacer, and sealer do you believe I will need? Some of the panels (the hood, roof, and both bumpers) will require stripping to bare metal (or plastic on the bumpers) due to the extremely bad condition of the paint. The rest of the panels aren’t bad, so I’m thinking of just sanding the clear on those panels to provide a good surface for the sealer and then base coat and clear. Do you feel that is a good strategy - strip to bare metal on badly paint damaged panels, strip to bare plastic on badly paint damaged front and rear bumpers, and just sanding the clear of the rest of the panels? There is some minor body work to be done with a couple of small dents/dings. I’m planning to put a sealer on the entire car prior to doing the base to provide a consistent final substrate for the base coat and avoid inconsistencies between the panels that were taken to bare metal and those just sanded in the clear. Ideally I’ll use a red colored sealer if I can find one. Do you know of a good sealer that comes in red? Does all this sound on track as far as my plans for the project? For the panels I strip to bare metal do you recommend a self etching primer or epoxy primer? I haven’t used epoxy primer before but will if that’s the best option. If I do use epoxy primer, how long will I need to wait between epoxy primer and surfacer or sealer and then base? Finally, I’m estimating about 1.5-2 gallons of clear coat. Do you think 2 gallons of sprayable product will be enough? I have used Transtar Select Royal Clearcoat (product OR 3101) which is a 2:1, high solids clear, but I want to use a top quality clear on this job and will welcome your recommendation of a clear brand and specific product if you will offer that guidance. PPG products aren’t easily accessible or available based on my search for them. Their ceramic clear coat sounds great, but I’m afraid it will be too expensive, and again I’m not sure I can even find where I can buy it. So other recommendations are welcome. I apologize if this is too long and too much information, but I have heard you state that too often people ask questions but don’t provide enough information for you to be able to provide a proper response. If you need any additional info I will gladly provide it and answer any questions you may have to fill in any gaps I may have left in describing the project. Thanks in advance for any insight and guidance you can share and again for your wealth of info in your KZfaq videos! I am very grateful for your assistance!

@CarAddictGarage 3 жыл бұрын

Hi bross63! Thanks for your questions. I will go more into detail soon, but for a quick answer for now, I would look at Eastwood products. They work well and can be bought online. However, they only have select colors in their paint. Here is a good video series of doing a complete and jambs. This car did not require stripping to metal, but I do mention that in the videos. kzfaq.info/sun/PL49vEsY2VV2owacnGOt31FQj6N3e9_ugi

@bross63 3 жыл бұрын

@@CarAddictGarage thanks for your quick reply and recommendation. The owner wants to keep the car the original color. There are a few sources for getting the paint in that specific, factory color, but I’ve only found it from the sites that sell touch up paint like touchupdirect, paintscratch, theautopaintdepot, everestautomotivemarket, and automotivetouchup. I have used paint from touchupdirect on multiple jobs, and their paint matched perfectly on each of those. But they don’t sell gallons (only quarts), which makes them a lot higher than the others, so ’ll probably get the paint from one of those other suppliers. I haven’t used epoxy primer before, only self etch. Do you believe I should consider using epoxy primer instead of self etch on the sections where I have to go to bare metal? There will be some body work in a few areas, so I will need the filler to adhere to the primer in those areas, and I will need the surfacer to adhere to the primer on the panels stripped to bare metal. Thanks again for your reply and helpful info and for the link to that video.