When my local Radio Shack was going out of business, they were blowing out D5 for $5 a can, and Gold for $7 a can. I loaded up.

Hi, what an exceptional video!!! Clearly explained and no "Fluff" fillers. Thank you for taking time to share this info sir!

Finally, after watching so many videos that imply how to use these products, you have explained and shown exactly how to clean potentiometers et. al. on any electronic component. I was looking for a video that would show me exactly how to do this. Now I can get my old multiband radios to work so much better. Your video is the standard for these products. Thank you.

Thank you for taking the time to explain the different types and the adequate use of these cleaners. Very informative en well done.

Perhaps the most informative video I've ever seen on KZfaq. Well done!

Excellent Deoxit guide. Everyone sprays it, few take the time to explain it. Good Job.

Thanks for the straightforward breakdown - much appreciated!

As a first time D5 user on a 50 year old Akia reel-to-reel, I found this video very helpful. Glad I found it. Thanks!

Thank you so much for your concise explanation of these cleaners, lubricants, pots and potentiometers. I could now decide which product to use and where to use them!

Thank you so very much!! I’m a retired aerospace engineer with a long term appreciation of Macintosh gear. I ordered Deoxit D5 and F5 and am looking forward to correcting noisey potentiometers on my C39 preamp and MC7270.

I really enjoy your videos. Watched the whole series on amp build. Great learning. I am beginning to build my own now. Had over 40 years as a Tech in Refrigeration and instrumentation. So I hear the pro coming through. Keep up the great work you do.Thanks.

Really helpful - thanks for de-mystifying the Deoxit line plus other products - I'm sure I not the only one who was confused.

Great video! Now I know what to use on specific parts of my electronic equipment.

Never used Deoxit before (or even heard about it), so that was very helpful. Thank you.

Very good tutorial on cleaners and lubricants. I wish there was a guy like you in my hood. I like old electronics and try to maintain them. I now have some better information. I replaced an old Soundcraftsmen equalizer with a newer version because the old one was popping when switched on, possibly frying my right channel on my amp. The newer version is no where as good. I had to replace my amp with a used one as well because they no longer make them with the jacks for the equalizer. I am not happy with it either. Thanks again for your expertise. Hector

Can’t thank you enough! Very helpful. This is the first video of yours that I have seen. I’ve subscribed. My one bit of advice for future videos would be to have a little desk type lamp turned on, particularly when showing small parts. But again very thankful for explaining so thoroughly. I’ve got an old Fisher model RS-1080 and the volume and tape monitor switches are giving me trouble so hopefully I can fix this myself.

What a great video! I should have learned this stuff long ago. I use these cleaners all the time but i didn't know when to use and when not to use for the right job. Thank you!

Great job! I have an old tube radio, 50's record player, and metal detector that need Deoxit big time. After seeing your video I now have a lot better idea what I need to do. Thanks

Amazingly comprehensive and helpful. Thank you so much for this!

Thank you, very insightful, I have the stuff, but never sure which one to use for what. I have a couple cleaning and service projects to do soon, this video has been very helpful. Thanx again.

Thank you for taking the time to put this together. I found it most helpful. :)

Thank you for a proper explanation of the differences between these product lines. Caig makes a wonderful product but their application charts really do not properly articulate the differences between them.

Great tutorial and glad I found you! A friend of mine has a very old (40yrs) Nutone Intercom with a radio and this I believe is what it needs.

TREMENDOUSLY INFORMATIVE!!!! I watched the whole thing and learned a ton!! Many thanks from Canada!

This video is exactly what I needed to watch. CRC is what I buy and is usually the only brand offered at the general retail level where I live. I knew that it's application was blast and clean only which it does well at but also knew it had no lubricative properties which is the back half of the cleaning/maintenance procedure. Learrning here of these of these 2 previously unknown products, Deoxit D5 and F5 with its conductive lubricants, fills in that missing gap. As always in many cases, I am not researching a particular subject, I merely happen across it but has information about something I knew I had some ignorance gaps with but knew I needed to know more about. I thank you for sharing your knowledge and the time you took to compile it. I stopped the video at 18:39 to pen this so I need to watch the rest of your video presentation, then, ......................................off to Amazon I go to order some Deoxit D5/F5. Just so You know, I hit the Subscribe button already.

Thanks man , you educated me big time ! I only knew what Deoxit did not how to use it .But i do now . Thanks .

Thank you for the informative video. I recently purchased a 1973 Kenwood KR-7200. It has cracking, unclear sound after switching or turning volume up/down. I’m ordering Deoxit now and will try cleaning it this weekend.

Great, Thanks. I'm restoring my TASCAM 246 and your info is a great help!

Great video, man!! Thank you so much for this break down! **THUMBS UP**

New subscriber. I love the level of technical detail in this video!!! Thanks!

"Hopefully you learned something today" ? Learning all you need in 30 minutes is what WAS needed....nice video...

Thanks Mark....really like the deoxit stuff

Hope you are well man! Remember ,, you must walk everyday!!

Hope you are doing well Mark! Thanks for this video.

Thanks! At long last Deoxit Demystified indeed!

Right on target about how confusing all the different products are. Thank you so much for this clarification.

Looking up Stabilant 22 brought me to your video. Cleaning and enhancing contacts on a old 88 BMW 750il car on the fuse panels and corroded computer connectors. Now I'm glad I found this vid. Hated the fast dry contact cleaners at brick and mortar stores. Needed a slow drying solution and a cheaper contact enhancer like the deoxit contact maintenance kit. Stabilant is too expensive. Thank you sir.

Great informative video! Very much appreciated. Your presentation was spot on! I enjoyed spending a few minutes with you and learning in the process. I have an old mixer to clean up and I'm sure you will have increased my potential for success exponentially! Thanks!

A great video, very informative, thank you!

Fantastic video as always! Thank you

FANTASTIC video! Thanks!

Thank you, I learned a great deal of useful information, You are making my life easier.

Fantastic video thank you. It answered all the questions I had.

Thank you Sir for your informative video. I have used QD CRC electrical cleaner as a novice in the past but not the D5's. With your video I'm able to understand the different use of them. The reason I came across your video is because I've been wondering how to thoroughly clean some kitchen appliances that roaches have used to nest and do their business. Like to clean and get rid of the smells also. thank you as it's not just an informative video but the way that you explain the details with normal speed and tempo becomes easy to understand. A lot of video has a lot of sensationalism and sometimes you can't understand their speech. JCT:) #Drumx

Excellent presentation. Thanks for the advice

great video on these lubricant cleaners thanks for sharing

In my profession I lubricate locks and I like to squeeze the plastic hose tip with needle nose pliers to collapse it to be more oval and thinner to enter tighter spots (like key holes). Thanks for the overview!

Fantastic!! Thank you very much for this thorough tutorial.

Thank you for taking the time to make this video learned a lot electrician getting into Electronics much appreciate the knowledge

Really excellent video . I have been using Motomaster Electrical contact cleaner for a decade with good results. It dries faster than D5 - but not too fast. I'm almost out so I'm going to order some actual Deoxit. One thing I found an alternative use of contact cleaner (in general) was to remove stickers from paper. It is the most effective NON STAINING method I have ever come across. I found out it was the Heptane that is found inside these contact cleaners .. that appears to be a key ingredient of Electical cleaners outside of acetone, alcohol and minearl spirits. So I'm going to order just heptane for the stickers..but it could be more expensive than buying the contact cleaner...and maybe less convenient. I have to remove 50 year old stickers off of various types of paper because I sell rare vintage LP records - and many times you find price stickers on the labels of the 45 singles..and that's probabliy the most tenuous to remove. Who else went through trying to remove stubborn stickers with lighter fluid or that orange 'gunk' remover.. both useless in so many situations. Sometimes lighter fluid would dry the glue to a concrete and make it harder to remove LOL Cool to know Heptane comes from Jack Pine.. so another family of solvents from Pine.. cool . THANKS AGAIN FOR THE EDUCATIONAL VIDEO.

Great video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have several amps that need cleaning, and this is a big help!

Inflation... The best deal is currently 36.94 on Amazon for two pack. 1-D5 and 1-F5. Thank you for this info. I am about to tackle cleaning a Mackie 16 x 4 mixer that sat in a dusty environment and is almost mute. I would have bathed it with the CRC product had I not learned about the importance of re-lubricating the pots and sliders.

Deoxit saved a decades old C= computer CRT color monitor that was arcing out at the high voltage cap due to dust dirt and grime over years of use and storage. No more arcing and the picture is perfect.

Wow! So much information. Thanks a lot.

Deoxit D5 is *NOT* to be used on carbon potentiometers! It will eat away the carbon track! Use F5 for this!

Love the channel and a great video.

Outstanding video. Thank you very much 😊😊

Thank-you, Soo helpfull. There are many products to choose from, Deoxit is the go to product among many of my tech friends.

Thanks for the video. I've been using the bottled deoxit with dental pick brushes to clean tube sockets. No overspray. Glad to hear from you.

Nice refresher,, hope your doin well, miss your videos

Thank you. A lot of the old cleaners are no longer available.

Glad to see you back, very useful. What about De-ox-id III?

Great information thanks Byrne

My Skullcandy earbuds stopped charging properly, so I cleaned the charging terminals on the charger and the earbuds themselves with Deoxit D5.Worked beautifully

Very helpful video... thanks!

you are really smart! I like all the names of the parts you're throwing at us. I guess the hard part is knowing where to spray. I wonder if that D5 would be good in key turning deals...like a door or even a vehicle ignition... thanks for your video!

Thank you for the information. 🤘🏼

Hi! Nice video, thank you! As you mentioned toward the end, some potentiometers have carbon strips inside them. In that case, probably FaderLube should be used on them, correct? Is there a way to tell what to expect inside the potentiometer without disassembling it (to decide whether to use D5 vs FaderLube)? For example, line or mic level pots on Pioneer RT-707, in case you are familiar with the machine: would I use D5 or FaderLube in that case? Thank you!

I learned about contact cleaner when I was in the Army electronics. In the 70’s I found LPS Contact Cleaner at the Offshore Technology Conference. The sales rep demonstrated how to get grease stains out of your clothes. He put some grease on his coat sleeve. Then he put a handkerchief inside his coat sleeve. Then he blew ths grease through the sleeve into the handkerchiefs using LPS Contact Cleaner. Maybe you should try contact cleaner to remove the Deoxit stains. Once they set in with the laundy, it may be impossible. Contact cleaner formulation has changed over the years and it used to be similar to the dry cleaning agent, carbon tetra chloride which is not available anymore. I don’t have any old audio stuff to worry about. My audio equipment is remote controlled. I don’t like to clean my electronics with an oil because it can attract dust and dirt. I picked your video to learn about Deoxit’s corrsion elimination properties. Good to know not to use it where oil is not wanted.

Soooooo informative, who knows how many devices you saved from misconduct

I work on guitars and amps and use the crc to clean then go behind with the Deoxit F5 as well. At first I was a little weary of using the crc but I have seen no issues with it attacking the carbon or plastics so I still do. Heck it is only $4 for that huge can at the autoparts stores. Mineral spirits which is in deoxit is also a lubricant. You could probably clean pots with just mineral spirits with an eye dropper and save tons.

Good info and a excellent video 👍.

Thank you for doing this video

Thanks for your informative video

Nice to see you back.. I'd love to use Deoxit D5, but it's around £30.00 over here in the UK.. For £12 (total), I get a separate cleaner and lubricator . Perhaps when we are free to do a trade deal with the U.S.A , it will reduce the price of Deoxit over here ?

I also have *D100L* in Red & Blue. Great for contacts on wafer switches.

very informative, thank you

If you ever update this video, can you talk about the Deoxit mechanical/electrical grease (L260DNp). I've cleaned a few pots and seemed to lose some of the viscous or "silky" feel to the unit. Was wondering if this grease would be useful to restore some of the feel of the pot? And, where would you pit it....on the wipers or just the shaft?

I tried some other ways people say on YT and the ol baking soda , salt and vinegar solution didn't work on for RUST on my USB connector charging cable . What did work is toliet bowl cleaning liquid . If you read the label some of them says removes rust . I tried it once letting it sit for a minute . On the outside removed much of it . Had to use again letting it sit on INSIDE of USB connection for several minutes . Rinsed it off then dried sparingly with heat gun . Now works . USB cable is how my Craftsman rechargeable headlamp charges . verry handy

If you want to get rid of the stains, turn it inside out, then put a towel under the back side. Spray from the "inside" to push the stain back out the way it came in. Use your CRC spray, and spray the area to wet it, and then scratch the cloth with a fingernail, etc. to break up the deoxit accumulation. Blot it with a paper towel, let it dry, and then wash it normally. It's also a home run to be washing those shirts inside out anyway. The logos last longer. The CRC spray is similar to what they used as a dry cleaning chemical years ago. I use it when I get grease on my clothes. Post back if it helps!

Great video

Thank you so much for the 30 minute video. I would love to hear from you in what are your recommendations for cleaning video game consoles and pc components like the motherboard and GPU if they are really dirty. You cracked me up with the shirt story. Thank you so much.

Nice video, thanks for posting. Now for my opinions. Deoxit D100 followed by Gold is my "gold standard" for contacts. It seems to reduce recurring issues. I do not use D series on pots because I have heard from individuals who have had the carbon track destroyed by it. Whether it was a weak track to start with and would have failed anyway or an incompatibility with D5 we will never know. But why take the chance? F series only for pots is my rule. Also with the exception of QD I avoid the used of sprays wherever humanly possible because they spray. Everywhere that you don't want them to. There is very rarely a spot that I can't get to with D100 in the needle tip bottle, or a tiny drop on the end of a screwdriver or dental pick. If I must spray I pack the paper towel around the target BEFORE I spray. Whatever you do, don't let the stuff get on your front panel. It may clean up OK, but it could also damage or discolor a painted surface.

Bought some CRC for my speed wheel on my PL-5 record player worked good. No more random speed changes.

I to had the same problem. I now wear an apron when I work in the shop. I will report the incidence of damaged clothing has decreased dramatically. Take care, God bless

SILIMEX SILIJET E PLUS In Mexico it is used to replace Caig Deoxit D5 Here it comes to us exaggeratedly expensive, triple the price in the United States. Thank you for taking the time to make this video learned a lot

Much appreciated.

Something I've done with the sealed pots at 28:00 is carefully drill a small hole on the front and back to spay contact cleaner. You have to saturate the entire volume so the other hole acts as a drain. Then I push air through it at low pressure and seal it up with a small piece of Kapton tape. This is risky but in the world of vintage equipment most of the time there are no replacement parts. Many people also desire to keep as many original parts as possible for aesthetics. I have do this method with the trigger switch on my Bosch drill once a year. I love the drill but the OEM charges 50% of the drill price for a part that will just fail in another year.

Thank you for a great video. What would you recommend for cleaning up a circuit board that has some corrosion on it and something to protect it. Thanks, Cappy

Hello! Thanks for the videos! Can you tell me if I need the D5 or F5 for these two problems (on Mackie Onyx-i mixers): 1) Noisy pots and 2) Noisy/Bad contact switches. The pots have very little noise but the switches (mute, mostly) sometimes keep one side of the pan mute. Thanks!!!

Thanks for sharing all the info and knowledge, very useful. In a separate note you don’t happen to have a bass shaft for a Pioneer SX-1250? Mine got broken. Thanks in advance

Good advice thanks

A good review of how to use it, thanks. Hope you are doing well. Cheers,

FWIW im sure you kow this but for others in most modern recording studios the faders are optical encoders, the entire audio path is digital. Even the analog stages in high end gear use digitally controlled VCAs with digital controls. I have one 20yo MOTU 8 channel mic pre that uses pots for gain to keep the cost down but pretty much all the other recording gear i use (MOTU, Audient, Expert Sleepers) has no analog controls (the Expert Sleepers DACs dont have controls, or a display, at all lmao). Even my old Onkyo amp has just one rotary encoder and a bunch of switches. The cheap Holts electronic cleaner i have lists >30% Naptha and >60% isopropanol in its warnings, so basically the solvent used in deoxit. I havent looked up the CRC Quick Dry. Ventilate well, everyone. FWIW from what i can gather the most effective method to clean open potentiometers like faders without disassembly is to start with a 'no residue' electronic cleaner like naptha or iPA (or chrolothane if youre game) to wash, work the control to free stuff, follow with compressed air to flow debris and solvent free, and then fader lubricant (Either the Dow-Corning Penny and Giles recommend or whatever your manufacturer recommends if you can find some, or the ubiquitous deoxit F series). I've been a tech for a long time, gotta clean my own out of production penny and giles motorfaders and i have never in my life been so stressed cleaning a contact lmao.

CRC QD Contact Cleaner and use Deoxit Fader F5 afterward seems the best way to go?

Thank you so much for your time, knowledge and willingness to share. Could you please explain how a dielectric grease is used? I have an older vehicle and think these products and techniques would make a big difference in the electric operation of the accessories. ( Great story about the kids and laundry...how did you get them to do their own? :) )

Good info, thanks

Thanks!

Thank you for a great explanation! I was using CRC, I THINK it was number 2000 for years, for audio gear. (Dark blue can) If you spray it on your fingertips it dried in about one second and left ZERO residue. IOW, it was more for fine electronics like you are talking about instead of 480 Volt breaker switches. LOL! I am wondering what would be best for inside an older computer? Probably the Deoxit gold? If the wrong cleaner is used in one of those, it will turn into a brick! Have a great week!

Thank you