I am grateful to viewer ‘John S’ who has raised questions about which product to use on potentiometers - DeOxit D-Series (e.g. D5) or DeOxit F-series (e.g. F5). He also raised issues about the safety of these products (i.e. whether or not they damaged pots). I have now had extensive further discussions with the manufacturers and contained in this article are, I hope, the answers to these questions. Hopefully this one can now be ‘put to bed’. Here is a summary of the questions and concerns: 1. D5 lists many uses on the side of the can but it does not list ‘potentiometers’. The implication is that this product should not be used on potentiometers. 2. F5 specifically mentions potentiometers on the can. The implication is that only this (DeOxit) product should be used on potentiometers. 3. D5 contains mineral spirits. These are harmful to carbon tracks. F5 does not contain mineral spirits. The implication is that here is more proof that this is the one to use for potentiometers. All three of these implications are false. Summary TL/DR • Neither D5 or F5 are harmful to carbon track potentiometers. • Both D5 and F5 use mineral spirits as a flushing agent, in exactly the same proportions, i.e. 75% • D5 will work on all carbon track potentiometers regardless of if the problem is surface contamination or oxidisation of the metal wiper. • F5 was formulated for conductive plastic faders/pots. The lubrication is important in these components. F5 will not help with oxidized metal parts as it contains no deoxidization chemical. • In the latest packaging, DeOxit D5 has ‘potentiometers’ on the list of uses on the side of the can. Here is the full explanation. Since the earliest days of electronics the search has been on for a solvent which would clean switch contacts, potentiometers and suchlike. For decades the ‘go to’ solution was Freon. It flushed away contaminants and evaporated rapidly. However, as we now know Freon is very environmentally damaging and is banned in most countries. The search was then on to find an alternative. For some time MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) was used as an organic solvent but this is still fairly damaging and attacks many plastics. Mineral spirits were then used as the ‘least worst’ option (environmentally). There are many different formulations and strength of ‘mineral spirits’ - it is a catch-all term. DeOxit D5 uses mineral spirits as the flushing agent. A ‘flushing agent’ is the chemical which washes away surface contaminants mostly via mechanical action. DeOxit D5 uses one of the milder formulations and strengths of OMS (Odourless Mineral Spirits). The sole purpose of the mineral spirits in D-Series products is to flush (wash) away surface contaminants. Despite ongoing myths to the contrary, mineral spirits do not attack or ‘eat’ carbon. In addition to the mineral spirit flushing agent, D-Series products also contains an anti-oxidisation formulation, the effect of which will now be explained. A potentiometer consists of two surfaces in contact with each other. Commonly this is a metal ‘wiper’ and a carbon track. The mineral spirits in D-Series will wash away surface contaminants (dust, grease, dirt etc.). Many other solvent sprays will do the same of course, even alcohol will do this. but sometimes the metal wiper contact is oxidised. In this case no amount of solvent spray will improve the potentiometer. The deoxidisation chemicals in all D-Series sprays will remove the oxidation from the metal surfaces. It is this dual action which makes it so effective on potentiometers. Aside: I have many times tried isopropyl alcohol and other solvent sprays on pots. It seems to work about 50% of the time. The other 50% of the time it does not work. If I then use D5 on the same pot, it is completely fixed. In these instances, I believe the metal contact was oxidised and required the deoxidisation chemicals in D5 to cure it - alcohol and many other sprays have no effect on oxidisation. There are 3 products in the D-Series. Here is what each one does. 1. DeOxit D5 - as described above. A mineral spirits ‘flush’ to remove contaminants. Then a powerful deoxidiser to remove oxidation from the metal wiper. Downside - you can overspray and as it doesn’t evaporate it needs mopping up. 2. DeOxit DN5 - if you don’t need a flushing action this product delivers the deoxidiser via a fast evaporation solvent. Good for more precise delivery of the deoxidation element and no residual liquid. 3. DeOxit D100S This is 100% deoxidation product with no solvent delivery chemical. FADER F5 Product This product was specially formulated for linear conductive plastic film slider potentiometers. E.g. Faders on mixing desks. It contains the same percentage mineral spirits (75%) as D5. It also has a lubricant to aid fader travel. This product can also be used on potentiometers. However, if the potentiometer is faulty due to metal oxidisation on the wiper, then a better product would be the D-series (e.g. D5). Very Old/Valuable Potentiometers. With very old and worn potentiometers it might not be advisable to use any spray with a flushing action as the mechanical action of this may under rare circumstances further loosen any material, Instead use DN5 for accurate delivery. Summary TL/DR • Neither D5 or F5 are harmful to carbon track potentiometers. • Both D5 and F5 use mineral spirits as a flushing agent, in exactly the same proportions, i.e. 75% • D5 will work on all carbon track potentiometers regardless of if the problem is surface contamination or oxidisation of the metal wiper. • F5 was formulated for conductive plastic faders/pots. The lubrication is important in these components. F5 will not help with oxidized metal parts as it contains no deoxidization chemical. • In the latest packaging, DeOxit D5 has ‘potentiometers’ on the list of uses. I hope this provides a full explanation and draws a line under this topic.

came for electronics-----subscribed for the stories......I really like this channel!

Once again a great show of your knowledge. Thanks for the information.

Thanks for this video. I had also heard these rumours and are pleased to see them dispelled as I am a D5 fan. We have some problematic input A/B switches on a mixer and while eventually the problem returns, it takes over a year instead of a month or two with another well-known switch cleaner. I also used D5 on the Input pots of two tape machines that were about 38 and 48 years old, the latter being an Akai 4000DS that I had as a teenager in 75. Both machines’ line input pots were almost laughably noisy but seemed to be as good as new after spraying with Deoxit D5. I spray, then waggle the pot a fair bit, then spray again to wash any debris away and this seems to work well.

Hello Stuart. Fist off it is a true pleasurer to see a gentle perform a non-bias analytical analysis. That is how we learn. Some do and some don't. I have been using and recommending Caig products for 50+ years. No comparison to other products. I did have an issue in the 90's. I am a retired Fender Amp Engineer/Tech and when Fender switched to plastic wiper hubs in the 90's it was a service nightmare ONE time for me. I had a warrantee claim on a 32 channel mixer. Well it had the sticky spilled drink issue so it set out to pull the PC mounted pot boards to start the cleaning process. Each PC board contains 8 channels. All the knobs, nuts and washers off to gain access for service. Painful at best. All cleaned with the staple at the time DN5. After completion the mixer worked great. I let it sit over night to "dry out" for final testing. Well the next day I went back and several of the pot knobs were laying over to the side. They had all become disconnected. At disassembly inspection all the plastic wiper hubs had softened to different degrees!!! A very bad feeling. I disassembled one and called Caig. As plastic use was just new they asked me the composition of the material. No knowing I call in to my Fender designers. Panic set in when I told the Caig informed me that DN5 attacks acrylics or styrene, because it contained Genetron 141B as a solvent. Resolution: D5S. You will see on the can. Safe for plastics. DN5 now has a warning. As for Fender, they honor all claims and paid parts and labor. Warnings were issued to all service centers. Two reputable companies! AND YES Deoxit does NOT dissolve carbon. It washes away loose carbon molecules and other "Crude" causing scratchy pots. I put it on all new build also for prevention to provide long term service free use. Now concentrated nitric acid can oxidize and dissolve elemental carbon at high temperatures over an extended exposure timeframe. It is used to make explosives and it "eats" skin also. Thanks again, Stuart it was a pleasurer! Ric

Just subscribed to your channel, due to your vast knowledge, class and you have a damn good channel!

I used the d/5 red can on my volume pot an my audio source pots an they seem to work amazing on my old vintage Kenwood KR-4600 stereo amplifier/receiver making static disappear an source switch control better contact ,I used electronic spray cleaner with short lived results. Thank you for this video!!!!

I absolutely love how you handled this! Great job sir! I’ve used Deoxit for years as a tech and I’ve never had it damage components….

Excellent work! Thank you so much!

Most excellent. Some of the most frustrating questions to find an answer to are ones about Deoxit D5. Everyone is an certified expert based on doing no research whatsoever. I appreciate your experiments, as I have heard these claims, and have used D5 for 30+ years on potentiometers with never an issue. New subscriber and looking forward to learning more. Well done! 👍

I have also used D5 for some time now, I have now bought a can of F5 to try as well. Great video!

I avoid using ANY organic solvents on potentiometers. (Still thanks for your tests.) The problem is that a potentiometer track is not a solid block of *pure* carbon. It is a paint containing carbon particles in a binder, which depending on its composition (in worst case something like nitro lacquer or spirit lacquer) may dissolve by organic solvents and so flush the carbon powder away. While I have successfully cleaned some pots with Isopropanol (e.g. a Casio MT-70 which is delicate to dismantle for access), e.g. slide pots in 1980th Bontempi keyboards react extremely sensitive on such chemicals. Thus I recommend to clean only with distilled water and a cotton swab (and dry it well) if you can desolder and open it (many slide pot tracks can be accessed without). Already the DeOxit statement "Mineral oil will not damage metals, plastics and carbon" is debunked, because mineral oil (e.g. household "machine oil") does make Bakelite (which by definition is a "plastic") brittle and crumble apart like charcoal, which is e.g. an infamous problem with spilled machine oil on Hammond organ parts. And the statement "If they use one of our sprays with a solvent, if the carbon has been scratched or damaged, the solvent will flush it off the surface." means that it does remove unbonded carbon particles (like a pencil streak), but poorly made old pot tracks are more like a pencil streak than a solid coal block. Therefore there is also the warning not to clean potentiometers in ultrasonic cleaners. Modern pots may be chemically and mechanically robust (like carbon brushes for strong motors) and even certified with a guarantee to survive PCB cleaning solvents used in factories. But ancient potentiometers are a different cup of pee. If the track is of nitro or spirit laquer, then Rest In Pieces. By the way, I have successfully repaired broken carbon tracks with conductive carbon paint based on such lacquers, those of course are not resistant to solvents either. Also a soft pencil can be used to patch a damaged carbon track, which isn't particularly stable either. And the reason that in the test with DeOxit the knob rotates much easier is because the shaft bearing/sleeve intentionally contains a viscous grease (may be to stop dust and make it feel more solid) that likely got washed away. That grease tends to solidify/form resin over time which makes the knob hard to turn.

Thanks for your thorough explanation of Deoxit D5 negatively effecting guitar potentiometers. You were clear and honest. Dan from U.S.A./ lifetime guitarist. 👍

I like this video... I think soaking those thick pieces of carbon is definitely not the same as what you would see in a potentiometer inside older audio gear. I do like the test with spraying several pots with different cleaners to see if it will eat away any carbon. Then, run a resistance test to see how they respond. The best practices, I believe, is to take the potentiometers apart and thoroughly clean and lube them. I'm no expert by any means. Your page has great content, and I'm here for it! 🙏

Very well done! Thank you. I am convinced,

Great job Stuart!

Great video! I saw another KZfaq video saying that what you debunked. Thanks again!

Great video Stuart, I love the methodical approach to debunking the myth. One thing though, It absolutely grinds my gears when I see someone tighten nuts with an adjustable spanner, a cheap socket set is far kinder and secure to jack and pot nuts then an adjustable. Just saying! Keep up the good work, I've learned loads of this channel.

looking forward to the results of the experiment

Thank you. Ive seen numerous videos about how D5 destroys pots and couldn't believe it either. I know a few electronics techs that have used it forever and recommend it above all else so i bought a bottle of the d100 with the needle tip. The one thing that is common in all the videos of the anti d series deoxit vids is that no one has done any experiment even remotely like yours. The proof to me is right there. Thanks for an informative video!

Thank you so much for making this video. I fell for this myth and was only using the deoxit fader spray for pots and the d5 for contacts. I restored a old scope last week and it was a pain to keep switching the cans. At one point I forgot to switch back and sprayed a pot with D5 and immediately panicked. True statement. Lol. Thanks again!!

When I became a certified electronic technician in 1990, my best friend worked for Caig Laboratories and he gave me a kit of Cramolin cleaner and lube. It worked great. When they developed DeOxit I started using that on my pots and contacts and never had one problem with it. I guess I am crazy ape bonkers for taking that risk.😂🤣😂🤣

I've always used Servisol cleaner on pots and never had a problem. I didn't know that DeOxit was available here. i do know that there appears to be techs in the US won't use it based on what you say, including some with KZfaq channels and swear by pure alcohol. Thanks for posting this.

Thanks for your myth busting efforts. The pots on my vintage Pioneer SX-770 receiver (1971) and other electronics devices I own are popping and scratching, so I am looking to buy some Deoxit D5 to clean them. Then I remembered some tech on KZfaq making the same claim about D5 as your commenter did. So I am looking around for some definitive answers. You thoroughly and unequivocally busted that myth. I'm looking forward to seeing the results of your pot cleaning experiment. Thanks again Stuart. Now I can go ahead and buy the stuff. Thanks for your honesty. Btw, I subbed and liked.

At least we can put that one rest!! Phew!!! Thank you Stuart for your in depth experimenting! You have gone to great lengths to support your facts and debunk this myth!!!

Stuart, when I was only a kid, my dear old Dad gave me one of the best pieces of advice that I have ever received in my life, when he said, “Son, never ever, argue with ..a MUG”..! And could I humbly suggest that you, should do yourself a big favour, from this moment forward, and also, always from now on, remember that same, great ‘Fatherly’ piece of advice, because life is too short, to waste even a moment of it, arguing, with ..idiots. 😉👍

Great video, engaging really well with the critical viewer's proposals in an informative and scientific manner that was great to watch! I think I am not the only viewer here that wanted to know how you were doing your cling film before you showed us the WrapMaster1000, I actually thought it was a plug, the introduction was seamless and you should get some royalties! Maybe a sideline to consider doing in your videos. Anyway, I came here to learn about cleaning pots and things, and am now subcribed because I like how you present. Looking forward to more. Thank you

"Hang on!..its fizzing!.." lmao well done my friend.

I 'm waiting to get some DeOxit D5, and soon I will be cleaning my Pots on my 30 year Fender Amp. I was hesitant to give it a try for fear of damaging my baby. Thank you for your informational video about potentiometers and DeOxit.

I was (I’m) on the cleaner rabbit hole since I only have vintage audio equipment. But internet experts, are very vocal the ones in forums are much worse. I did the water and electronics, that drove them nuts. To make sure they went nuts I added a sonic cleaner. I tested full boards left them on the cleaner forever then tested each component no change what so ever. Anyway great channel. The dunning - Kruger effect is so prevalent nowadays, that is not worth the fight. Again great video and sub. 🎉

Amazing stuff

Wow! If that workbench top could talk! 🙂. Thank you for this Stuart.

Good work Stuart ! On to to Grassy Knoll Well done T

I enjoyed your story, by the way.

The video is 7 months old. Any update on your interesting experiment? It would be good to see what you can share with us. Excellent channel 👍

Thank you so much for making this clear. I have seen videos basically saying the same thing, so thanks for busting it. As a beginner I was really getting worried about cleaning my pots. Subscribed, again thank you will be ordering some dioxit for my vintage radio I have just received.

Stuart, thanks for debunking the myth. Well ✔ 👍

Thanks Stuart. Good information. Its a tricky subject as I've watched xraytony's video on deoxit d5 who does have different experiences. Your potentiometer experiment will be enlightening, and will shed some light on the long term effects. Thanks for the content! Look forward to some more repair videos very soon. Do you repair pedals too? Would be good to see some videos on that. Ryan

Thanks for taking on this subject, which seems like something that may never go away, as people often have emotional attachments to their inaccurate ideas. If you have the time, it might be helpful to contact potentiometer manufacturers like CRL, Alps, Bournes, etc. and get their recommendations for cleaning their products. I assume they have people who look into these things.

Stuart, I’m very pleased that you took this one on. Well done! Yes, I remember this person,s posting about Deoxit D5 and F5 and was a little concerned after spending £43 for the 2 products. I started my contact cleaning journey many years ago and still have my Archer electronic cleaner with and without lubricant. Used these many times with no problems and later no problems with Servisol Super10. My experience with any potentiometer cleaner is it will cure problems for considerable time between application but not permanently due to dust buildup. I have a Gibson guitar that was made in 1980 which has the pots completely covered with an outer can arrangement and there is no crackle what so ever after playing this instrument for 40+ years.

Stuart, I have a can of CAIG DeoxIT D5 part no. D5S-6 with the L-M-H adjustable spray from the late 1990's and plain as day it says it CAN be used for potentiometers. I reached out to CAIG and they swear the current formulation works "identically" to the can I have - the only changes made is a reduction in the red dye used and a lower VOC propellent.

I just watched a video on another tech channel about how Deoxit D5 damages pots. He never actually showed the damage on a pot that he was servicing. He completely disassembled the pot, but failed to demonstrate any damage. He said the pot was gunked up or something. Caig is correct and so are you Stuart. I need to see actual proven evidence of damage to electronic controls caused by Deoxit D5 cleaner before I will believe it. So, as I stated in my earlier comment, I'm gonna buy me some Deoxit D5 and safely clean my pots! Thanks again Stuart. Cheers.

Nice work. I'll admit I've been sceptical of contact cleaner after watching some other KZfaq techs... the faulty assumption or logical misstep I can now clearly see is that if your carbon tracks are already cracking/delaminating then off course a high velocity solvent spray can carry them off, making the pot seem "more broken" 🤦

Well played, sir.

Thanks for the video, I've heard this rumor also. I tried this measuring the pots resistance, before, after and over time. The only thing that seemed to happen is the pot got cleaned up, the overall resistance stayed the same. There's a video from Caig showing cleaning pots with D5, I think it's nonsense.

I've been using D5 on pots for years and never had one fail from a chemically ruined carbon trace. I have however watched a couple of videos from users claiming the opposite. I have a Peavey back stage amp on the bench with a couple of noisy pots and am about to use D5. I'll let you know if I ruin the pot. I would have done an ohmeter test on that pot before taking it apart but that's just me.

Used Servisol at work. Probably very similar. Good detective work, Stuart.

Use dioxit myself..like you say great product for pots

Can't wait to try this on my old Ross RGR 25W amp, the pots are scratching worse than my cat in her litter box! They definitely need to bring back the old bottle design though.

This reminds me of something I have experienced myself. I used to clean computer parts, circuit boards etc. with water and dishsoap, people would say I'm an idiot for doing so as the water would surely destroy the electronics.. This is not at all true of course, I have actually revived a graphics card this way which is still working perfectly to this day, this was maybe 2 years ago. As long as there is no power provided to the board and the caps are depleted, the water won't damage anything. Just make sure to rinse all the soap off and blow it dry with an air compressor or something like that and it will be just fine.

Well done! For anyone that doesn't know, Caig actually linked to this video on their D-series page, and there's also thank you note to Stuart. That's how I got here. I'm pretty sure that most potentiometers use carbon in the form of graphite, which is only soluble in molten nickel (2651 °F), chlorosulfonic acid and chromic acid. Carbon has many allotropes and graphite is the most stable form. Pro tip: Don't clean pots with molten nickel.

This video fell right into my lap =) I just purchased the F5 a couple of minutes ago right before clicking on your channel, how bizarre. 👍 Mahalo from Commie Fornia TBD3.0 (Toothless Bull Dog 3.0)

Your a Gentleman and a smart one at that 👍

Stuart, the video I watched just before this, explained that the D5 flushes away the Fader Grease from the Pot, and this will use long term issues, like makes the pot too loose. The grease is a type of seal , so when it gets washed away you lose that protection. He also thought it left behind a residue, but I wonder if it is breaking down the Fader Grease is it really the washed away grease that is leaving a residue? Does any of that make sense to you ?

Exactly the experience described in the letter: I used DeOxit D5 on a pot that was in truly bad shape, and the cleaning experience 'made it still worse'. The DeOxit fluid simply washed out the remnants of the already flaked-out track. Plain water or even forced air would have done exactly the same thing. Ironically, if I'd used D5 on that pot years ago, the lubrication *would have prevented the wiper from scraping up a dried-out track*. I can see that an inexperienced tech would blame the final, complete failure, on the application of DeOxit, but this is simply shooting the messenger. It washed out the remaining, floating particles of carbon. TLDR: use DeOxit before the track has dried out and starts to flake.

My pyramid 52kx power supply was under 5 ft of water for 12 hours during a flood. Power washed. Sprayed with contact cleaner and dried with forced air. No issues since 2016...

I’ve never had issues with D5. I stopped using it because of the fold out straw. I use a much cheaper generic type. It smells the same as D5. I do keep a a small can of the fader lube and I use it after cleaning. It has the regular straw.

I'm not a chemist, I'm a mechanic. We have found that odorless mineral spirits cleans most everything very well, with no damage to hands, or the things you are cleaning, unlike other cleaners. That being said, I've always been told that cleaning with Deoxit you need to be careful not to use too much or it will penetrate the material that holds the contacts. That would be of course, on band switches and that sort of thing. In fact I didn't know that it came in a spray, always bought a little bottle and used long Q-tips that I buy to clean guns with. So I was wondering when someone said they cleaned the pots with Deoxit how they did that. I was thinking the part of the pot that holds the coil is the same phenolic material as on a band switch? Very interested in your demonstration. Thank you.

Before watching your test my gut feeling is that it's more an issue of creating an insulating layer that causes the potentiometer to become intermittent.

Did you ever post the follow up video on the multiple pots test?

I think I heard it doesn't attack the carbon track but the material the carbon track is placed on, It swells up once deoxit is sprayed on it.

I remember reading that conversation. He seemed very determined and it made me think too. But like most, I've been using Deoxit as long as I can remember. Unless the part itself was physically damaged in the first place, I've never had a failure by using Deoxit. And some of the places I have worked (not guitar related), we went through so much of that on the weekly, you'd think that we were painting with it. But in the fairness of completeness, I would welcome the person making these claims to retort with video evidence of his own that it does cause damage. I would certainly be interested myself. I do also use Servisol occasionally. Usually if it's a guitar potentiometer, I'll use Servisol given it's a bit cheaper and does the job. There's no reason for that at all other than it's just what I've always done.

I can't say I 100% agree with all the methods of your testing, and analysis, and the broadest application of the conclusions you have reached in this regard. (Specifically concerning carbon contacts and how that can be impacted by various products.) However, I really appreciate your willingness to consider the possibility you could have been wrong and your efforts to engage on the subject with a clear head and little bias. Sadly, an attitude of infallibility is far more common. Concerning your test and methods, as other comments have pointed out, the more realistic concern here is not hat the carbon can be dissolved by a product as that the carbon necessary electrical circuit that is conducted through the carbon could be effected. Such as a product desolving aspects of the paint-like layer sometimes used to keep the carbon in place . More specifically I'm not thinking of potentiometers, where the carbon track must be laid very securely as it will encounter nearly constant friction when being turned. Where this could be more relevant are where carbon is used as a contract to complete a basic on/off switch, such as that used by most computer keyboards and electronic musical keyboards. I'm a former computer accessories repair tech, and it was pretty common to believe that if too much isopropyl alcohol was used to clean a spill on a computer keyboard you might create conductive issues with the thin carbon traces these rely on. I never thought it was dissolving the carbon, but rather loosening the bond that had been used to create the carbon trace so that enough carbon was displaced or washed away that the low level electrical signal coriander get through. Anecdotally, I've tried to repair many broken computer keyboards after a spill caused a key to stop responding. I've never been successful if the spilled fluid had already damaged a trace, but many times after trying to use alcohol to clean these contacts I've created a larger problem, where more keys have failed. I have to assume that either I damaged the carbon traces with the IPA, or that I damaged them while clumsily trying to deal with these extremely thin traces an plastic film layers. A musical keyboard recently started having some intermittent keys and velocity issues. These generally work very similarly to a computer keyboard where the piano key presses down a rubberized car on contact onto an open carbon trace on a circuit board to complete the circuit. Velocity sensitive keyboards have 2 of these mechanisms under each key at different heights. The difference is measured to determine how load to play thr triggered sound. There are tons of references all over not to use cleaning agents like IPA on these carbon contacts with many reports of these traces being damaged further when attempting to be cleaned. This application has very little friction, so quite different than a pot. Vintage keyboard Repair forums frequently say not to use Deoxit D5 in applications like this. But now, having seen what you found about the ingredients of deoxit D5 makes me wish i had tried deoxit first for this piano key carbon contact issue. Most directions say to only use water, or even to just use a pencil eraser to clean the conductive surface of these contact traces. I tried water and it didn't resolve all issues, although it seemed to improve things. After researching this I decided to use the eraser method, that I assume removes oxidization. I started gently scrubbing these carbon contact points on the keyboard and quickly realizes (but too late) that the carbon was coming off as I could see grey streaks on the PCB and on the eraser. I quickly stopped but it was too late. I was able to restore some functionality by using a soft pencil to rub some conductive graphite on the contacts(to restore conductivity). It helped a lot but isn't improved enough, so I've made an order for some conductive carbon paint I can use to [hopefully] resolve these issues. Had I seen your video before using the eraser I would have tried first using some Deoxit D5, (since that is what I have). If the conductive paint works fully then perhaps I'll try some D5 on another key to see how it does and whether it improves things, leaves it the same, or reduces conductivity further. If so I'll try to report back. This may be a case where there is some truth to the contrary, but not applicable to POTS specifically.

So, it says lubrication is important (of course, we wouldn't want the carbon to wear through entirely!) and you noticed the deoxit pot was very loose (I think the factory lube gives it that nice, not loose but smooth feeling, and I suspect the D5 might be flushing away the lube). For pots, do you think a good tactic might be to first try F5, but if that doesn't work then try D5 to fix the pot, then F5 to finish for it's lubrication?

Interesting video, but why not use Servisol Super 10 which is less than half the price? Is Deoxit better in some way? If so, how? Servisol Super 10 also comes with the old style push button and straw (like old WD40) which you can bend and spray at the same time

MAY still be up in the air. Next time push the shaft out of the pot, still no current has been flowing threw the pot. I agree with you but who really knows. Be interesting to see the final post

I would have asked the manufactures directly for your answers.

I'd used for 40 years in all kinds of radios, audio, video equipment never had any issues.

never had a problem using it on pots, also great for multi contact slide switches...only problem with de-oxit is there crappy nozzle, which has been dis-cussed before, but i think thats been sorted now.

I' am a retired tech and still do repairs, I have used DeOxit D5 for years without a single problem. I find myself perplexed with a number of video's claiming D5 leaves a residue making meter readings erratic. My take is, if another solvent were used and D5 applied later, then yes! maybe there could be argument made, mixing different solvents from other manufactures is asking for trouble. When I discovered DeOxit D5, it out performed any other contact cleaners by a mile, in fact my cleaners would cause volume slider controls to bind or stick due to the chemicals they used. Stuart! you are the only one that bothered to do a though investigation that involved contacting Caig to put this matter to rest, (well done).

I wonder - I wonder if an electrical test might show better the condition of the carbon pad in a potentiometer? Perhaps hooking the pot up to a DC voltage on an oscilloscope and then working the pot back and forth to see how much noise shows up on screen? I look forward to your video about the different cleaners used on pots. I've got a bunch of old ham radios that need cleaning and rebuilding and would like to know what products are best to use. Is isopropyl alcohol safe or dangerous to use on open and closed pots, for instance? Should I use DeOxit instead or is CRC QD cleaner just as good at a lower price?

You English are so polite. Even when arguing with a thick brain. A question for you, Can you use mass oxygen sensor cleaner for cleaning scratchy pots?

I stopped using it, white vinegar removes oxidation add two teaspoons in using a syringe with denatured alcohol (you can use mineral spirits but I believe the alcohol is better) into a 16oz refillable pressurized can, I also use the pressured can to do board cleaning also, this cost 1/10 of the price. I paid 30 bucks for the reusable aluminum pressurized can, white vinegar is $3.00 a gallon and the denatured alcohol is $20 a gallon I empty the pressurized can after every use for safety and make sure I use it outside of my shop. I do not have to be cheap with it and does a great job of cleaning everything. and FYI you can get deoxit in the tube and add it instead of the Vinegar. I flush everything with Air and allow it to dry overnight. Credit to my wife she was using the same thing (she found to recipe on line) to clean mineral buildup on plumbing fixtures but added a tablespoon of dawn soap so I started to research it

I put D5 in my tea as a Tonic and I feel Great!

“The argument from personal incredulity!” 😂

hi stuart i hope ypu well .. i wuld like to ask you samthing.. where can i find th potentiometers for a Marshall valvestate avr 150hx ? the pronlem is that i live in Venezuela and culdnt find them here in my country .. so do you know where can i find them ?

Any sort of cleaning product is going to remove a bit of material..... it's like when you polish your car's paint. My assumption is that the VERY noisy pot already has cracked/damaged tracks. I've had noisy pots that the cleaner of choice WILL WORK......and some it won't.

It is well known that anything which 'is well known' has just been made up on the spot. Great video with great information. btw... providing accurate information to someone who has drawn mistaken conclusions from incomplete information due to a lack of research... isn't 'myth busting' or 'debunking'. It's just correcting someone's mistake. That was probably innocently made, like most of the mistakes most of us make everyday.

Looks like wd40 has a contact cleaner have u any experience with tht . Thks

If people were saying d5 ruined their pots but d5 doesn’t do that then what caused those peoples pots to not work anymore?

STUART, I have heard that DeOxit does damage pots, switches, etc because it has a coating and will cause intermittent failures over time because of the coating. I remember at one of my jobs this repair tech used the DeOxit GOLD conditioner and over time it ruined all the relay contact switches, selector switches and pots. So I think it leaves a coating and its best to just soak them in 98% alcohol is what I have been told. What are your thoughts? and what type of coating does more cleaners leaving on the pots resistive track and switch contacts that this coating ruins switches and pot resistive tracks?

Stuart I was shocked too and it sounds like that rumours BS, but the other thing the rumours are saying is it can wash out the grease that’s in the potentiometer. Is that true, or BS as well?

I highly doubt that DeOxit is damaging the carbon tracks itself but both sides of this argument seem to be missing something... ANY solvent sprayed into a pot can break down or thin the friction grease in the pot. The grease can then run onto the carbon track, which may then cause continuity issues until properly cleaned off again. I believe this is what happens when a cleaned pot is working great for some time and then becomes noisy again after a short while.

is the residue left by deoxidiser sprays NOT conductive ?

Hi, is CRC electronic cleaner OK for my vol and tone pots on my 1985 Ovation acoustic electric? I sprayed it a couple of times and when I put it back, it doesn't make any sound. But, I think I might have pulled a wire loose on the input jack, do I'm going to check that out today.....Thx

Great job busting this myth. I wanted to ask you if you've come across the new set of schematics of the Fender 2019 Hot Rod Blues Jr. IV black pc board? If not I understand. I've contacted a few of the forums with no luck yet either. Hopefully soon Fender will release a set. Also another great video, thank you for all of your help.

i used D5 on my guitar pots i removed the knobs and sprayed it right on the pot shafts on the top of the guitar, it cleared up all the static i had there for years, i do think the pots feel different after it like more scratchy not as nice feeling , less resistance in the turn , like they spin very fast left too right and feel dry and almost scrape like , but my guitars sounds better then maybe they ever had, so still a win i guess on an cheap old guitar. , this is just my experience as of last week. i only speak for myself.

Just watched another video and the guy was saying the Deoxit red destroys the carbon in the pots? so I'm thinking we are talking about two different types of pots? One with a wire wound resistor with a wiper, and one that is made of carbon?

I have a new can of Deoxit D5. It shows it can be use on potentiometers. Also it shows it contains mineral spirits. So Caig updated their label.

does fader lube (Deoxit F5) lube the pot so you dont have to clean as often?. I did a D5 to my Luxman amp 6 mos. ago and the scratchy is back already would doing a D5 application followed by a F5 application last longer?

But which Deoxit product is most appropriate for cleaning guitar and amp pots with?

Brilliant bit of myth busting Stuart.. The only thing I've known is that 'pots' may after time and regular usage display 'mechanical' ware. There are no articles I can find listing any known cleaning fluids that will damage or dissolve carbon tracks. I've always used Servisol 'Super 10' which seems to work well .. The only reason I've not used DeOxit D5 is I'm to tight to splash the cash on it.

Thanks for the great video. Have you completed your experiment on the pots? I'm curious about the results, especially with the wd40. I have an old amp that desperately needs some cleaning and I have all kinds of wd40 on hand but I'd like to know your findings before spraying any in my pots. I can order the Deoxit online but it is pricey and if the wd40 does the same, I would use that instead. Thanks.

I wonder if the carbon track is held together with some kind of supporting substrate. If so could the solvent dissolve this substrate leading to deterioration of the track, even if the carbon is not affected. Perhaps pot manufacturers do not use the same substrate therefore explaining why some pots are damaged and others not.

¨A Little Knowledge Is Dangerous!! or to quote Bill Murray: ¨It is difficult to win an argument with a clever person - but it is near impossible to win an argument with an IDIOT!!¨ 😁

You are talking sense. They are far too many so called experts on the web to day with no experience or knowledge giving advice that could prove be dangerous and cause serious harm. I do enjoy your chanell. I do have a Ham Radio licence for over 19:10 forty years and I have being building RF amplifiers and guitar amplifier, both value and solid state. With the valles a couple of 4CX255B and a HT line of a couple of KV mistake can be beyond interested. A little knowledge can be dangerous. Far too many experts around to day on the net.

I don't think you can make an accurate correlation with soaking them in D5/mineral spirits because in a potentiometer there is a friction factor involved with the wiper and the carbon track. You would need to create 2 devices that wipe a metal tab on the carbon peices with equal force and wipe them x amount of times while submerged. One in D5 and one in F5.

You clean the pot with DeOxit D5 and lube with their recommended fader lube, if desired.

How about the D5Gold ? Can i use it on potentiometers as well ? Can it be harmful, or is it useful ? Does it clean and lube like the F5 , regardless if there's any gold or silver within the switch ?

Actually high rank people of one of the best audio recording company told me Deoxit D5 is great to clean pots and contacts