Thank you Jack for the kind words. Yes, I too love inventing things and highly encourage you to start now. You don't need a degree (though it can help) and you don't need money (again it can help) just start today! Read about the great inventors. Like Letourneau or Eddison, and of course watch guys like Colin Furze or the Hacksmith or Mike Patey. Blessings!

Haha! That would be funny. Yeah, I'll stick to 72mhz for now.

You are welcome... you should definitely try a project like this... and let me know how it goes... and post a video or two! :-)

Thank you! It is a ton of fun to drive. Once I get it back in the water I want to try getting a really fast run from down deep and see just how high it can jump! :-)

I think that's a great idea. I'll see what I can put together in the next couple months.

Thank you! :-)

Thanks! I love making RC stuff too!

Same

Thanks! I do not... Had Matlab in a couple classes in college, and never did understand it. Haha!

Haha! I appreciate that! Only have to grow 1000 times.

Yeah that sounds like a good idea. Or use two smaller motors. Could potentially use differential thrust then too for helping it turn if you did the props side by side. otherwise if you did them inline it would definitely eliminate the torque roll that mine experienced. Good Luck!

Hi, Nice to hear you are making an ROV too. You'll have to let me know how it goes and post some videos. Yes, the nose arrangement works very well. I have been trying to come up with a better one that is more streamlined, but they get too cumbersome or are harder to take off. Nothing special about the latches. The ones I have are brass finished which helps them last longer in the water. Here is a link to the ones I have been using. www.natman.com/detail/1842-draw-catches-n208-561 You should be able to get these on ebay or amazon just fine. I just got a second set from ebay for a new nose cone I am working on. Look for a video of that in the next month or so. As for orings, I think any would work with an ID of 3" Here are the ones I am using. www.mcmaster.com/90025K466/ Let me know if you have any more questions. PM me and I can go into more detail. I am currently about to start reassembly of my submarine and hope to get it in the water next week. So look for some new videos in the next few weeks. - Dan

Thank you. I am glad it was helpful. Yes, I hope to get back to is sometime too.

Yeah good idea. I haven't seen a MHz module. Though I haven't looked real hard. Have you seen one?

@@AscendDynamics As I am in Germany 72MHz is no option to me. But there exist transmitters supporting modules for 27, 35 and 40MHz, maybe now just as used products, e.g. from JR, Futaba, Multiplex. I am in a similar situation as I also have two subs in use, but actually still have a 15 year old MC3030 which is sufficient for my needs. But I often have thought already to build such a converter box in case this old transmitter will be dead at some day. From this transmitter I have two 35 and one 40MHz modules available.

Na, too complex. I have an aircraft background so I just wanted a sub that would "fly" underwater... that is what I got... well and the fastest sub out there... though, if I wanted to make one for underwater filming, then you are right, ballast tanks would be super helpful!

I don't think that a lot of the components that I used are available anymore. I would highly recommend trying Nautilus Drydocks at www.rc-submarine.com/ They have all kinds of parts and kits to get you going. As for Cameras, just use any FPV system for a drone. You will just have to put the Video Transmitter in a float that stays above the water. Have fun!

Amazon is a good source for parts used in a project like that. There's also a number of KZfaq videos on home building ROV's that have other options for motors, props, camera housings, ect. Most of those are surface tethered though.

Have you watched it jump out of the water? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oLqbf6ynlbDWlJc.html

I used a super old Kk2 mini. It's super outdated nowadays. I would highly recommend using a much newer flight controller. Then for firmware I would recommend ArduCopter... So technically it would be better to use one of the land-based variations. I think something like ArduRover would work great. It can be done with the KK board, I just had it laying around. But I definitely wouldn't recommend using such an old board anymore.

Oh yeah, I know this, but I have radios and don't plan on buying new one just for the Sub... so Aircraft only it is... if anyone complains... I'll just jump it out of the water... :-) Then it is in the air... haha! :-) But seriously, there are no airplanes on these frequencies anymore now with the spread spectrum radios. So no danger of taking down someone's plane.

To do something like that, you'd want a microcontroller on board. Like an Arduino or Rasberry Pi. Depth and direction would be easy enough using a compass and pressure gauge. The main problem is that it would have no idea where it was. Time, direction and RPM would let you estimate with dead reconning, but to get an accurate position, you'd need to get close enough for a GPS antenna to penetrate the surface. Currents could put you way off your estimated position. The other issue is that collision avoidance would be much more complex unless you just want to turn it loose and hope for the best. If A and B were close it would probably be reasonably easy. The further away they are the more difficult it gets. One option would be to have it run subsurface for a few minutes, pop up and get a GPS reading, then go back down to cruising depth for a few more minutes. Less stealthy, but more accurate.

Thanks! I think you can still download the files from here: 3dx-us.com/models/rc-submarine Best of luck, and let me know how it goes if you make one.

Oh very nice! Yes, needing more programming capability and channels. How is yours made? Dynamic or passive diver? What size motor? Have you tried putting cameras on yours? FPV is really easy. Do the JR72 MHz modules work with a JR radio? Seems like that might be a good way to get the capability we are wanting. If you do get a chance to make a video I would definitely like seeing your sub!

So had a thought that I think I'll try on my Sub. I don't need more than the 6 channels that I have on my 72MHz radio, but I do need more programability and mixes. If I was to use a Quadcopter flight controller that would give me all of that as well as stabilization and auto level. :-) I'm excited to try this now!

@@AscendDynamics I just posted some videos of the new Graupner Shark. It is faster then I could control. I recently modified the tail, reducing the surface area, because it would snap off after a hour of high jumping. I can write up the specs. but I think it was a 38mm Castle sensored, brushless, water cooling, split front dive planes.

The problem with autonomous is that GPS doesn't work in water at all. You would have to rely on accelerometer and gyro tracking in the control board. This is easy to do with an aircraft or drone that has GPS, much harder to do underwater where you don't have an external reference like GPS. As for being enclose in the sub for a long time, overheating isn't an issue because you can run water cooling to the components.

I am confused. In order to make an autonomous mission, algorithm and programed waypoints can be done for the submarine to go from point A to That is the reason how modern submarine torpedo works ?

Is it possible to make the submarine autonomous as long as a GPS antenna is above the water surface?

@@franciscourena5636 Hmm. That might work. Just have to control the depth accurately with a barometer to keep the antenna above the water.

@@AscendDynamics Last question I have seen some UAV with a GPS antenna mounted. Then, I noticed they go deep into the water. My question is as follow: Can you establish a mission plan Point A to Point B by going deeper and surfacing the AUV periodically?

Each section of the PVC pipe has a shoulder machined into it. I just add a little bit of sealer and put them together with a couple of screws to hold them in place. The fins are on a shaft that goes into the submarine through a plastic bushing that has a rubber o-ring on the inside. All of that works great. I haven't had a lot of luck sealing the motor shaft though. Watch a couple other of my videos on it and you can see exactly what I did.

Thanks!

It was a bronze bushing with a rubber o-ring in-cased in plastic. But I need to come up with something better as this one ended up spinning on the prop shaft after running for just a few times. Ball bearing would be preferred.

They make plastic bushings that have an o-ring in them to seal up. I'm not sure where to find them now days. another option is a sealed bearing of the right size. check out these websites for ideas. www.rc-submarine.com/shop www.rcshipyard.com/tech/

You are welcome! thanks for watching. Nope, no alligators this far north.

It kind of is... I was going for simplicity. Worked great!

Yes, I think that is the best way to do it. Not only get the mixing capability but also benefit from the 6 axis stabilization. I have like 3 old KK2 boards I am thinking to try out... Haha!

Just a simple 2 conductor insulated wire I had laying around. I don't know what guage. But it is pretty flexible. Just about anything wild work. I run a common ground and video signal. Power is supplied independently at the camera on the sub and at the video transmitter in the buoy.

@@AscendDynamics ahh ok cool. I was thinking of a similar project and was worried about choosing a wire that is salt water resistant

@@groudonkoorb ah, that's a good point. I'm only in fresh water now so I haven't worries about that, but if you are in salt water, definitely do more research on what wire to use and such. That said, I think any wire would work ok as long as you whipe it off after each session with a rag damp with fresh water.

Thank you for watching. It was a lot of fun to build and run. I have a number of mods I want to make so when I eventually get around to putting it back in the water, I'll post more videos of it.

Sure here's my contact dgant@ascend-dynamics.com

What do you want to know?

I believe I stumbled upon your file online, but it is not open to the public to download.

@@paulpoung2707 Yes, it should be available from the 3dx site. 3dx-us.com/models/rc-submarine You will have to create an account with them. Let me know if you still have issues and I'll see if I can get it to work.

@@AscendDynamics You must request a download. I requested a download

@@paulpoung2707 Go ahead and send me an email and I'll see if I can figure this out for you. dgant@ascenddynamics.com

@@AscendDynamics I sent the email!

Yeah, I believe both of those bands are avialable to me here too. The trick is getting a 6ch radio that runs on them. I need that many channels for all the controls I have. One thing I could do since I have a float with the Video TX in is anyway is put my control rx there and run s-BUS to a flight controller. That would allow me to use my Taranis then for control.

I don't if this is possible in the USA . But over here in Britain on eBay the are second hand 4 and sometimes 6 ch transmitters and receivers to be had . any help to you ? @@AscendDynamics

I just had a thought , If you have say 4 channels on your transmitter and need 6 . One thing I have seen done at the club I belong to. Provided the two extra channels are not proportional , i.e. just off and on . Then it's easy just to buy two simple transmitters and receivers on eBay , if my memory is correct work on 445MHz . That are sold to be used opening garage doors or something similar . Then stick the transmitters , which are very small, on the back of your 4 channel transmitter . Of course if there is someone living close by who does have garage doors, that use a remote. It may cause some head scratching . :- ) @@AscendDynamics

@@welshpete12 Haha... that would be funny. I don't think this is going to be a problem for me. It will be rather easy to either use my Taranis with an above water receiver or (and I had forgotten I was going to try this) just use my same 72MHz 6 channel that I have used for this sub already and put a Quadcopter flight controller in the sub for the mixing capabilities I want. That would give me more than enough control while also giving some gyro stabilization and auto-level capabilities. :-) The latter might really help keep it underwater at times. Thanks for all the ideas. :-)

You very welcome :-) I have a auto-stabilizer. I'm told they should be fixed in the middle of the boat if at all possible. @@AscendDynamics

Haha. Didn't have a printer. Though honestly, I would turn them again instead of printing. Needed the extra weight and strength that a solid part would give. Though, I guess They could be printed solid. :-)

Lathe turning would be the right thing to do. 3d printing is so over-rated especially for real mechanical features. I wouldn't trust "printed" o-ring groove or NPT threads to be water tight. Also, you would end up spending much time w/sand paper, files and dremel to remove "extra support crap structures".

@@trexinvert Exactly. Turning solid plastic just ended up working so much better. Though I did them on a manual lathe... next time I'll have to try my cnc mill. :-) What I want to try is clear acrylic or some such plastic and polish the nose to a fine finish. Then I could put a gopro session inside and avoid the excess drag that putting it on the outside had.

Here is the link to the cad files. They are in .step files. You'll have to request them and then I'll get them sent to you. 3dx-us.com/models/rc-submarine

Exactly! I have several different flightcontrolers in mind. This would also help me with having limited program-ability on my 72MHz radio. The FC would allow me to mix the controls the way I want to.

@@AscendDynamics i am looking forward to the upgrade ;)

@@bringamosa8480 Me too!

I use silicone between each tube section and an o-ring for the nose. Works great to keep the water out.

Ascend RC thanks, how about the location of rudder and motor shaft? How do they seal water while still rotatable?

For the control find I have little plastic bushing with a molded o ring. I got these 5 years ago from an rc submarine site and haven't been able to find them since. For the motor shaft I'm using sealed ball bearings.

Ascend RC thanks, I saw many people using rubber bellow, have you thought of this? Anywhere to find water seal bearing? I found is the seal only prevent dirt come in but not stay it may seal against water?

Try www.rc-submarine.com/ they have all kind of parts. I haven't check for seals specifically in a while. Though I may need to find some myself as I think I want to try different control fins soon.

I used some special bushings that have seals embedded in them. For the control fins, they were just simple plastic bushings sealed with an o-ring. For the motor shaft I used a sealed bronze bushing. They worked quite well. I never got any water inside. I did end up spinning the motor shaft bushing (it stuck to the shaft), so I need to find a better one. There is a link to these bushings in this video's description: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oJ59o6-drqizZJs.html

Thank u for the answer and link! Did a good job with the submarine.

@@rodrigoalvesdeoliveira6919 Thanks! It was a lot of fun. I really need to put some time into fixing it up again and doing more videos of it.

Hi, what do you want to know? It is really a lot of DIY, you will have to find a lot of the components and modify some to make them work.

LOL! Do you?

Keppsmokin

Haha!

How do you split the water into hydrogen and oxygen? Nuclear reactor? I was under the impression that it took a decent amount of electricity to crack water.

Yeah Really!

Haha. It definitely wasn't supposed to be a scale submarine.

Have you considered using the nose probe to make a bubble layer to reduce viscosity?

@@ivorjawa yes actually. Though more a suppercavitation bubble. We'll see if I can ever get to that.

Ascend RC exactly what I was getting at. Cool!

I will check them out. Thanks!

Thanks bud. It is funny how hard it is to actually talk in front of a camera. I will keep working on it.