'Designing complicated models using separate components and groups' should be the next topic, mostly so you would start using them as well. They save quite a lot of time when you make and edit larger designs consisting of multiple separate parts.

The multipart and self-designed supports was something I've been using, but those sacrificial bridges! Genius! So obvious now I see, just never thought of it! Brilliant!

I love the rain, especially Australian rain because for it is falling ground to sky because I am in the Northern hemisphere 💝

You are the best teacher about 3d printing, I have ever seen on youtube. Thanx Man.

Angus, i have been designing my models like this for years, but its good to see it being acknowledge more

Angus! I love that you are covering this topic. My work with resin printing and adding manual support with various orientations to minimize supports has been definitely a learning experience in developing an “eye”. It’s not something that comes naturally.

I am designing Parts for my 3D printers for over 5 years now. In this video I really learned something new! Thank you!

Again, what awesome content! You're clearly back at it even better than before since your well deserved break. Keep it up Angus!

You can also "split" certain overhanging parts to be completely separate, and then add an assembly feature like a groove/tongue or an interlock for adhesive fixturing. My little Markforged Onyx one machine has a small print volume, and I find myself splitting parts into 2, 3,4,5, or 6 sections and doing cluster prints to save time.

Thank you so much. I was making a design where I was thinking I was going to have to make it in two parts and connect them together but hated the idea so I was waiting until inspiration struck. And putting in a temporary support that allowed a bridge was the perfect answer. Awesome. Thanks

This video is pure gold! You made an oblique reference to this video in your "ELITES don't want you to know" video, and I had to find it to see how you design out the need for supports. I still need to go into Fusion 360 and try creating the sacrificial bridging, but I have saved this video in my favorites so I can always go back to it. Every once in a while you come across videos that stand out as exceptional, and this is one of them. Thank you!

I have been designing 3D printable parts for a few years. I already knew all the tricks you mentioned, but I still appreciate your videos.

Creating my own supports was something I learned from you a long time ago & it's worked every time. It does take some thinking of "how do I want this to work" Great tutorial as always.

I just wanted to say thank you. Your videos have helped me figure out ways to design parts around printing limitations, and has allowed me to take on much more daunting tasks.

Nice! This is exactly what I needed today; I recently bought a small printer and I was just this morning thinking about supports, material use, multiple parts, etc, and this really cleared things up and set me in the right direction. Thanks much, you're awesome!

Thank you for this video. People want to print everything in one go FAR to much. There are reasons that manufacturers make things in more than one part other than production technology. Too often I hear "they don't because they can't." I call BS on that. Why do some people think we have manufacturing technology that Toyota, Ford, GM, Bowing, GE, and EVERY OTHER manufacturer on the planet does not? There are cost, speed of production, reliability, assembly, repair, maintenance, environmental, and material type reasons behind the decision. I probably missed a few reasons, but these are key. I was taught to design the part on paper to work correctly first, then choose the material that is best suited, THEN change that material for the one that is best suited with cost in mind, THEN choose the best production process, THEN AND ONLY THEN do you go to CAD. People in 3D printing are pigeonholed into a few materials so they usually skip that step. I don't think most people realize how limited 3D printing can be. It has such amazing potential that to often the down side gets over looked. Thank you for setting things straight. Also couldn't hear rain...

I actually used this technique when designing my first Benchy. After hollowing the cabin I was left with a other large unsupported ceiling. I added ceiling beams inside the cab on the under-surface of the ceiling. They did not print very we'll, but the resulting mess of an attempt ended up supporting the ceiling of the boat cabin. Glad my first hair-brained design attempt is actually confirmed by watching your video. Thank you!

I've broke things down sometimes to print better but this really highlights a lot of great design tips. Can't wait for the next video.

As a huge fan of ALL the Fallout series - I applaud you and admire your ingenuity. Well Done! (insert Vault Boy Thumbs Up HERE!)

Great video as always! I picked up a few tips for sure

Holy crap just about to hit 1M subs! Congratulations on the major accomplishment.

Thankyou Angus! Your last two videos have taught me so much about optimising print performance/quality! I never would've figured these techniques out, especially the cylindrical holes with expansion gaps, I can't tell you how many PLA holes I've had to drill/ream out to get that perfect bearing fit! :-D Really appreciate your content.

Fantastic video series Angus! This and the hole design video are all great advice.

Really useful, thanks! I can't believe I've been printing for a year now, and a couple of tbese ideas are new to me!

Excellent video. Definitely could have used that tip about the sacrificial bridge in the past. Thank you for your high quality tutorials!

Thanks for the bridging tip. I tried it today, and it really makes a difference to printing with supports.

Great job Angus, really. I remember one of yours videos saying "i don´t want make "beta tester" and lost my time, i don´t want to be a reviewer. I want to help de 3d comunity" (or something like that) well.... you really make it. Thanks!!!!

Have used the sacrificial bridging technique in a model today and it works brilliantly. Also used the 0.3mm super fast method you explain in another video. Many thanks!

As I'm working on a huge engineering class project with a majority of the parts 3d printed and having just bought an ender 3 i really needed this

Good video as per usual matey. Me personally, I’m not fussed about producing models and items all in one piece, I’d sooner split things rather than faff and waste time on something that may not work, and maybe look poo. On a side note, I appreciate all the hard work you put in to these videos, Angus. Yours is the only 3D printing channel I watch, as your content covers pretty much everything and you have a unique way of getting your point across. Keep rocking dude, you’re doing a great job with it all. Cheers, Lee (UK)

Perfect video. Even better than the hole design last time.

Good information! Started using bridging very recently after having a part turn out poorly. I was to the point of trying anything. I still need to tweak my settings for bridging but it was definitely the answer. I wish I’d seen or thought of this earlier. Keep up the videos. So much helpful info.

Great video! I am just getting back to 3d Printing again -- and Definitely some tips I'll be using! Thank you!!

Another great video! Will definitely be implementing these into my future designs

These design tips are gold 😃 much appreciated !

now this is what im talking about, great job! I was thinking of designing my own as well and now I know its possible this particular way. great job!!!

I'm nearly 60 I fall asleep to rain 😂 😂 new to 3d printing, actually teach it as an ad on, point my class to your videos, I'm honest enough to tell them I'm a chancer at this game still, but hopefully I'll get there soon, great simple ideas in this one

Very clever Angus!

I'm loving this series! Can you do a video on splitting a model, specifically .STL files, and adding tabs/pins and holes for joining them post pint.

Cool video. You are one of the reasons I got my ender 3 and these kind of videos kind of motivate me to make a costume printer myself

It is raining here in Ca. USA also. The hard part about your videos is remembering ALL the good info. Thanks. 🖖🔥⌛️

These are great techniques. I’m totally going to apply these!

never heard of sacrificial bridging. great idea. thank you!!

One of your best Videos Ang, will try to put this into practice at the weekend..

Looking forward to trying out the sacrificial bridging. Another great video Angus!

Love your work, as always great to watch and learn! Bang on, less is more with great quality like this who cares for pushing x vids per week/month. Totally on the right track mate, keep up the amazing work!

Thanks for another very well thought out and informative video.

Like your meshmixer videos, this series has been super helpful for me. great content. thanks

Thanks for more tips and trick on cad design. 3D printing is like any other manufacturing process, with some things they can and can't do. Know process limitation and how to bypass it is far more interesting than just download and print. Some more tips you can take a look on: You can create parameters in fusion360 with extrusion width and layer height and use it in some critical dimensions (home made support structure for example, or to be sure that you have at least x complete perimeter around an hole), printing direction have some influence to design strength. Best regards,

I love this series!

Awesome tips, thank you.

Great video as always. Thanks for your shared information. Still my No.1 3D printing channel. I could not hear the rain at l. Enjoy it and rejoice. We in Cape Town South Africa are facing our second year of a majour drought. We are thankfull for every drop when it rains.

Thanks Angus, another great video.

Very good video. Helped me a lot

Sound: Is perfect, background noise free crispy greatness Angus: Apologies if the sound is rainy Me: What is he talking about????? :D :D :D And: THANK YOU SO MUCH, THIS VIDEO WAS IMMENSLY HELPFUL!!!!

Nicely explained as always. Although this little project of yours has got me rethinking the printer I was designing...

Thanks Angus... these are things I'll definitely consider next time when designing something. I've got a an i3 mk3 MM2 on order, and now have some PVA, so was thinking of using soluble support interfaces in the future where needed. But this might be easier.

Thanks, Angus, for the tips!

Good tips, I have sort of started to do this with my designs making separate parts part anyways. The built-in support thing I will have to try on my current design but I think I can fix it with just putting some chamfers in the problem areas. They are not going to be visible to anyone so I think that would be ok. But I have been looking at trying to minimize the need for support material as much as possible over the last few projects. and your tips will help for sure, never thought of making my own supports, clever.

Very useful tips and solutions

no sounds of the rain that I could hear.Nice video curious to see the end results of this printerLove your videos as always glad your back from break hope you recharged

Sometimes it might be possible to join two parts without bolts using similar principle to lego blocks. Square holes and matched square pins. Interesting video! Thankyou for sharing.

Impressive, very good designs, wow Thanks for sharing 😀👍

Great tips. If you ever get to the Netherlands to give a workshop on 3D printing, I certainly would attend it! Keep going Angus.

That is great job, mate. Keep on. Hi from Istanbul.

thank's a lot for our teardrop shaped holes tip !!!!!!! i used it in my job and spread it to my collegues an boss. Even if I said that it's your invention but I got felicitations so I give you felicitations back !! ;)

I use all of these in my models. I tend to use polygonal shapes if I need to index parts together as they tend to print better than circular indexes and these have allowed me to make parts that exceed the build volume using the least amount of support material.

One tip i have for fusion 360 is: if u want to delete a part but it messes up the timeline bad, just make a big sketch and extrude it through the part you want to delete.

many thanks, great ideas.

Great food for thought.

Hey Angus. Great Vid as usual. We use Brass inserts instead of nuts. No slots necessary. Just design in the appropriate sized hole and then heat / melt them in with a soldering iron. Once in they ain't gonna come out. And they're cheap.

Great tips on these video series. Thanks for sharing. : )

Huh, I had no idea you could actually print over open air like that in the sacrificial bridging bit. Obviously something that's either floating or attached on only one point is impossible, but I didn't think you could even really do it across two points like that since the filament doesn't have anything to adhere to as it goes and it'd just sag. I guess the cooling fan really does good enough of a job for that beyond the first layer droop? Thanks for this series by the way, I have my first 3D printer coming in a week or two and I haven't touched cad since Solidworks in high school and this has been a perfect refresher. Detailed but concise and efficient, just what I needed to de-rust the memories while also understanding the new software and modern parametric style

Like Ur new Format

Thankyou for all your hard work! The information you provide is just great! I've learned so much from your videos. Please consider doing one on bridging for people who know nothing about it. Please please please. And thanks again!

Oh my god Angus, I love Fallout! I want to make one of these too! Wow, love the sacrificial bridging

I too had to design a two piece hotend carriage. It had to mount an E3D v6, 2 noctua fans for cooling the part and E3D, a direct extruder, and also be able to support a cable chain so all the wires don't go down into the printing area. I used gussets and thick walls so I could tap threads into the screw holes.

Good tips; I did the same things, but there is one I missed: I have some prints, where I drew the object in a 30 or 45 degree angle, from the bed. So I added some smal support construction at the bottom, which also helped to add surface area. One more thing: These nut inserts... People tend to design an opening next to the screw hole, but you could scew it a bit, so that the opening is offset in relation to the crew hole.

Great tips, started modeling myself and didn’t yet realize I could totally design it like that. Haha Only thing that has to be said, all of these things do require a well tuned printer ofcourse.

genius in simplicity.

That Vault tech printer is so cool 👌🏻

Great tips Angus. Couldn't hear the rain at all.

Great video!

Thanks Angus, great content as always. Cheers, JAYTEE

I've been learning things lie this to some extent. I remember years ago 3D printer users (local anyhow) being like "some things won't print well", and now I'm like "things *designed* to print well do*. It's not a technology that does magic, it has to be skilfully used. :) PS I used your teardrop hole solution in a build recently! :D

Those are really usefull!

Great tips. It would be wonderful if you could make a video about printing multiple part components but without the need for screws and glue. How to design joints that just fit together and will work for different types of things. I see so many designs with screws that just would not need them. Love your vids!

this is brilliant !!!

Angus, maybe in 7:36 you should choose bridge settings to a perpenticular angle... this should make a better bridge for that part, less cleaning and more precision/ less falling layers on that @maker’s muse Thanks for the desing tips, awesome stuffs in your channel.. I watch it for a loong time, since the beggining. Cheers!

Wow! Top notch content and building on the previous release. I've tried the sacrificial bridge for holes and am pleased with the result. Looking forward to integrating some of the othe suggestions. Are there circumstances where a dual head extruder with soluble support material has a clear advantage?

Nope, didn't hear the rain at all on my monitors. But those are all good idea's on how to avoid support materials, I'll keep it in the back of my mind as I start to get into modeling.

Hi Angus. I think it's a good idea to generate a test piece for the "hole support" bridging rather than get into a long print ( like your base) only to find out halfway your bridging settings need more work. The Nema stepper feature you showed, with it central large and 4 bolts holes, would be a good example.

Your last video helped me out on some M2 screw holes (ignoring that I measured them wrong... Should have been M3...). And I have been trying to apply this when I can. Still need to learn how to split existing models, but am doing it on my own designs at least!

You're a legend

Used to do this with Meshmixer I think. But use Sketchup more often than not as I work mostly in straight lines...haha. and it is dead simple to use for quick prototyping. I had never really taken the extra time to throw supports in though and usually let repetierHost/Cura just do it's thing - Which is really annoying when you have Holes on the X plane that Cura might orient in a way that is easy to remove. But any openings you have then in the Y axis it basically Fills in! So I used the later method on the weekend - in a 60mm wide by 15mm opening I placed half a dozen 0.6mm wide/thick posts that printed with No walls, very little material, was sufficient to hold up the 60mm space at the top of the opening, but was Dead simple to remove. Wish I could post a pic - because the resulting "lattice" looks good too, due to stringing between the posts due to no retraction...

I made a ring to join two pieces together, and for that, I found the support material extremely difficult to remove, but I heard about sacrificial bridging 3DPN's video, and I ended up designing in some posts on the outside and inside of the ring to bridge to those so I could print it without support material. They actually broke up pretty well, though I did end up cleaning them up with a knife.

Set it to print a draft shield around the part and pause the print right before the bridge. Fill it with something to keep it being able to collapse like sand or playdough or maybe even a custom made water soluble support printed beforehand or made out of toilet paper mache like a prison knife.

What you could also do is set the overland needed to print supports to 90 degrees so that it won't mess with holes or curves and won't droop the overhangs

Thank you for the tips! Extremely valuable for a newbie in 3D modeling and printing! Are you still planning on making a next video in this series?

1:00 I like this week’s “porcupine” hairdo.