I have the same movement apart at the moment. My first attempt at repair so I am following this video series closely! Thank you for your efforts and sharing of knowledge!

Great work, and being an Omega, even a modest 7 jewel watch is well made. The most important positional adjustments for a pocket watch are dial up, dial down and pendant up. Due to the nature of the process of positional adjustment, a two position watch must be adjusted to dial up and dial down. While dial up and pendant up might seem a more logical choice for two adjustments, you can’t adjust the timing in the pendant positions unless you’ve already adjusted the dial up and dial down positions and brought their rates and amplitudes as close together as possible. The triangular roller jewel is a cost saving measure. Roller jewels started out round, and several shapes were experimented with before the D shape was found to be optimal. I’ve seen triangular jewels in 200yo English watches when they were still experimenting with different shapes but in newer pieces like this they are used because it’s easier and cheaper to make a triangular jewel. Rather than statically poising that balance after repivoting, I’d suggest screwing both mean time screws in all the way, and then gradually back them out in equal amounts to bring the watch to time. The other balance screws look unmolested, so provided you put both the roller table and hairspring back on in the original orientations, you’ll preserve the temperature adjustment the watch had when it left the factory. If you didn’t mark the orientation of the roller table, you can use this video to find the orientation vs the hairspring stud. If you find a large difference in the dial positions after repivoting, use that sapphire tipped pivot rounding tool (you did a video showing three of them) to make both pivot tips identical in shape. You may well be able to get away with reusing that mainspring. The likely places this watch will be losing amplitude are as follows: 1. excessive shake at the barrel arbour due to wear of the plate holes, which can be closed on the staking set and opened to size with a smoothing broach. 2. Worn, slightly egg shaped pivot holes, which can be closed slightly on the staking set and reopened to size with a smoothing broach. 3. Worn pivots, which will benefit from being burnished in the Jacot tool.

Thanks best of luck I would befare to make one easier

wish i had a Mayers #58 😞

Great video! I loved the closeups and am looking forward to the re-pivoting video. By the way, how many inserts are there for the Meyer’s #58 movement holder?

That mainspring is about as set as it gets. Even if you used the original one, you wouldn't be happy with the amplitude. And Tim may not tell you where the cave with the cruel, foul rabbit is.