VW specifically says not to apply antiseize to the hub, but to each their own

Maybe we can be your go to place for parts too ; )

I'm in Canada so as long as the shipping price is right I am into it :), also, I sent you guys a long winded question on Facebook :p

They don't do much.

@@deanjet Rear do more than front brakes when using adaptve cruise a lot

@3:44

Listen to what he said, "I don't have a wrench narrow enough..." Which means he had to find an alternative. I will most likely not use needle nose in the future as they do mar the bolt face and could potentially round it out if the loctite is holding strong. But it's a useful suggestion and it works decently enough in a pinch.

@@Osprey1994 Go and buy the correct tools to do the job properly and save yourself problems down the line.

I used a regular 15mm open ended wrench and it fit fine. 🤷🏻‍♂️

@@99SVTBolt Yep 15mm open and a 13mm ring or socket for the bolt.

Your own lack of research man, this isnt the only source. FCP Euro makes a definitive guide.

And it needs to be a short tool not a long one otherwise can't get to the top bolt 😭

@@fast_eddie3441 Funny, had that same problem on my mk6 jetta, but it was the buttom bolt that I couldn't get to (only have a 1 3/4in long bit). All I could do was remove a bolt/bushing from the frame arm; not sure of that bolts purpose, but it left about a 1 1/8 hole.

Yeh, I read a post somewhere that a guy couldn't get his m14 to fit, so he bought a m13 for like $15 bucks and still had a problem. I told him all he needed to do was use a pick to clean out the crud and tap the socket in lightly and he'd be all set, especially with this type of socket

@@fast_eddie3441 where can you buy a short one, the rotor doesnt come off without removing the carrier. i ordered a triple sqaure from FCP but its too long xD. im searching online for one but CANNOT find a shallow short or stubby 14mm

@@AnthonyDeCroceI just picked up a set on amazon for 20 bucks.

Actually, not the same as these. Looks very similar, but the pads are different.

I am still willing to try, because I don't have the bolts on hand and I really don't want to drive 35 minutes to the dealer to get some from parts.

I had to take the carrier off to remove the rotor

I know. I can’t wait to get rid of my vw. Hate German engineering.

Would be nice if they simply put the bolts on the wheel bearing. The lug studs was a moronic design.

The fronts aren't a problem, just turn the wheel and you can fit an impact wrench back there and break them loose. The rear one's however might give me some trouble.

I'm struggling with exactly this. The car needs to be on a lift to get a breaker bar under there. Very little room to work with.😒

European gti's as well

The Golf R does the GTI doesnt

Awesome glad to hear. A lot of this install info crosses over to other models and the general info is almost always applicable. Thanks for watching! Paul

Many pad manufacturers have started using coatings on the pad back plate to eliminate the need for grease. Some even come with an extra shim to install in between the pad and piston to further help reduce brake noise.

The front are actually M14, the rears are 21mm hex head

yes, on this vehicle, only the rears

just tried this a few weeks ago; we could _not_ get the pistons to compress without borrowing the tool from autozone. _other car parts stores are available._

Thanks for the love

VW doesnt disclose why they need to be replaced so we cant offer any info on that.

Any bolt that has a torque spec of XX Nm +90° (or whatever it may be) should be replaced every time that it is taken off. VW has engineered the metallurgy of that bolt to stretch when it was installed correctly to prevent it from working loose through vibration. VW loves to use them on critical components. Those stretch bolts are therefore weakened from their initial use, and one risks them snapping when reusing them.

'Torque to Yield' bolts.... I believe ARP Fasteners has some insightful reading for this.

From what I've read, anytime a torque value is applied followed by an angle, the fitting is TTY.

No, brakes don’t work that way. The front calipers wouldn’t mount the same way, and they also have no provision for the park brake.

If you can't do the research on brakes and how to upgrade them, please continue to pay a technician to do any and all work on your car.

The caliper carrier sits super close to the face of the rotor.

This video doesn't show bleeding the brake lines while compressing the caliper piston. If your brakes are being replaced due to wearing out, you should bleed your lines while compressing. If you do not, it can damage your ABS control module. Additionally, check your Brake Fluid reservoir to see if it is overfilled. Mechanics routinely top up brake fluid as pads wear down. When you put on new pads, less fluid is needed due to the pistons being compressed. If your fluid level is good, I would do a full bleed and replace your brake fluid, there are plenty of videos on youtube and it is not as difficult as it looks. This may resolve your ABS issues, unless the module is damaged. I know I am 5 months late, but I hope this helps.

Still need the tool to screw it in. The Electronic Parking brake is only for parking and doesnt actually control the braking of the vehicle.

Yes

We will be talking about on askdap 106

Yup

Yes. He mentioned that in this video as well.

@@jameshaulenbeek5931 he mentions caliper carrier bolts in this video, he reuses the 13mm caliper bolts. Believe in the ft video he reused caliper cartier bolts and replaced the caliper bolts

@@dave-osmodernlife6885 he says it around the 11:40 mark in the video.

VW says replace them all, that’s what I’m going to do.

I'd recommend using pb blaster or another penetrating oil prior to attempting to break these loose. The rotor set screw wasn't too bad.

I am making my second attempt at those bolts without a lift. I bought a really short 1/2" Drive M14 Capri socket, impact rated universal joint, extensions and a impact wrench (Dewalt) to get it done. I have worked on VWs for twenty years but never had so much trouble with accessibility due to that multi-link rear suspension on the MK7.

@@paulherbert5548 I just went through this, those 14M triple squares about did me in. You're right, without a lift it's very hard to get leverage. I got them out with a 14" breaker bar on some and a flex head ratchet on the rest. My 1/2 impact wouldn't touch them. I'm buying a 24" ratcheting breaker bar for the next time ....

@@benriker9589 Hey, I too was successful! I bought a pair of those light weight tubular Schwaben jacks stands and positioned one of them under the lifting arm of my NAPA 3 ton floor jack to get access to those bolts. I lifted the Golf about 16", measured at the center-line of the rear wheel hub, shoved the jack stand under the lift arm, raised it to meet the arm and inserted the locking pin to keep things safe. Once you have the height and a good jack stand in place for peace of mind its a lot easier. A flex head ratchet is best if you use any socket longer than the really short M14 Capri socket. I didn't even need the universal joint that I purchased, using just a 15 1/2" breaker bar for all 4 bolts. If I remember correctly, the lower? bolts required me to use long extensions to get the breaker positioned away from the strut/lower control arm suspension pieces. I was even able to get my torque wrench in there to tighten those stretch carrier bolts. www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/aluminum-3-ton-jack-stands-pair/005945sch01a/ www.lowes.com/pd/Capri-Tools-14-mm-MT14-Stubby-XZN-Triple-Square-Bit-Socket-1-2-in-Drive/1002616182 www.toolsource.com/12-in-drive-c-194_252_562_699/12-drive-chrome-flex-handle-breaker-bar-1512-l-p-122091.html www.harryepstein.com/micro-adjustable-torque-wrench-50-250-ft-lbs.html www.napaonline.com/en/p/NLE7916420

I have invested in the shortest length triple square socket that I could find because accessibility on that top carrier bolt is a bitch. A suspension component blocks access to the top of the top bolt so maybe using that socket with a impact rated Universal Joint and a Impact wrench will do the trick.

after looking at those top caliper carrier bolts, how do you get a torque wrench in there to tighten them. Some one gives us some insight here ...

Sorry I dont know the bias split Paul

You want bigger back brakes?

You don't need to, and you don't want to...I have the PP and brakes are so damn expensive with these 340mm fronts. Does the car stop well? Yeah, but for street driving you would be better served with a a rotor from a company you know won't have issues with cracking or warping, and some really good pads from HAWK or EBC.

You will need to remove the cap & keep an eye on the fluid level as you push the caliper pistons back as it will rise in the reservoir.

@@derekcable Fluid level shouldn't rise so much as to cause a problem.

@@Osprey1994 Only if it's not been topped up since the last time there was a pad change. If it has your need to bleed off the excess brake fluid.

You need vcds or a scan tool to retract the piston.

I get a lot people like the idea of big brakes, but for you and anyone else who comes across this...big brakes aren't worth it unless you are competing or you have disposable income. It's not cheap to buy new rotors for the MK7 PP, and I am lucky that there's a company with a warrantee program that will let me replace my rotors for little to no cost for the life of the car.

Yes, brakes routinely make contact at low speeds. When traveling at higher speeds, brake pads will hover just barely off of the rotor surface. You only need to be concerned if you cannot turn the rotor or it is extremely difficult. If that is the case, check your fluid and ABS; assuming the caliper is in working order.

That'd be hill assist. If your parking brake engages using a switch (like a window switch) that's the electronic brake mentioned. If your parking brake uses a big ol' lever then you don't have electronic parking brakes

youfoundisaac Thanks!

answer coming on AskDAP 49

+Deutsche Auto Parts Awesome

You just need the brake caliper tool kit with the different adapters...the piston needs to turn as you apply pressure. You can't just push it back in with a regular piston tool. If you don't have a kit you can get one from a local auto zone with that lend a tool program or perhaps similar parts store where you live. I eventually bought a kit off amazon just to have since it was less than 20 bucks...

Yes the GTI and Golf use cables the Golf R used electronic parking brake.... VW is Keeping them as inexpensive as possible for the US market.

It’s also more fun to pull a U turn in the snow.

MK7 GTI Performance Pack Red Stuff Pads can be found here deutscheautoparts.com/ebc-red-stuff-rear-pads-1k0698451k.html

Anywhere between 400-700 depending on what you are buying.

I had a retention Torx screw. It's rusting in a landfill somewhere. Dumbest thing ever.

Its a MK7, DAP has a rear/middle exit exhaust

+guamdubber got it. Thanks

Yup as mentioned its a MK7 it has a custom center exit exhaust on it.

Lots of pads these days don’t require that

Hard as shit, if you don't have the ability to buy a jack and some stands along with the tools needed then you shouldn't be driving this car. If you aren't willing to buy those tools because you want to skimp on expenses or because of your living situation then just pay someone to do the work.

@@Osprey1994 finally, I jack up the car. put the socket and long wrench, sit on ground, use my leg to kick the wrench.

In front brake install video @ 15.50 he says carrier bolts do not need to be replaced per manual. Only cleaned up.