Devil's Kitchen Headwall (V1) // Mount Hood

Рет қаралды 1,074

Күн бұрын

My 3rd summit of Mount Hood and my 4th distinct route to the summit. We started skiing up from Timberline Lodge around 4:30a with a calm, clear night sky. We reached Devil’s Kitchen around 8a, had a quick snack, and transitioned from skis to climbing gear. We followed a boot pack through deep snow to the base of the Headwall (Variation 1). We gained the steep snow up into the rime ice gulley system and set our first belay station using a screw and a picket. From here, we roped up and climbed our entire 70m rope length, protecting the route with screws along the way. In this first pitch, there were 3 distinct 20 ft ice steps linked with steep snow. The first was thick, solid ice at maybe 50 degrees that took sticks and screws well. The second ice step was a bit steeper, but thin and mixed with rotten rock and snice. The third was the crux, and it was vertical but solid and with great features, including a fully enclosed ice tube to climb up through. We set our second belay station above the crux on steep snice with 2 screws backed up with a picket. By this time, the solar radiation was intense-I could feel my skin burning and ice was steadily cascading off the rime formations all around us. Next, we simul-climbed a steep snow gulley with decent exposure until the route mellowed out with moderate snow and we solo’d the rest of the way to the summit. After a much needed food break, we traversed the catwalk and down-climbed the Old Chute before reaching our skis back in Devil’s Kitchen just in time for a magnificent sunset and alpenglow splashed back over our route we had just completed. The ski back down to Timberline was under the night sky and variable at best. Some might say it was a sheet of ice and an awful time.
Feel free to message me with any questions or comments below!
IG: @RadishUprooted
Completed + Filmed on March 30th 2024
6.8 mi, 5.3k vert
CHAPTERS
0:00 Intro
0:24 Approach
2:15 First Ice Step
4:10 Second Ice Step
8:00 Third Ice Step (Crux)
10:57 Exiting the Headwall
12:32 The Summit
13:25 Old Chute
14:13 The Ski

Пікірлер: 16

@stephenheath4766 2 ай бұрын

Killer climb! 🎉 It’s looking good up there!

@RadishUprooted 2 ай бұрын

Thanks!

@fouglasdir 2 ай бұрын

Thank you for the details on anchors and protection.

@RadishUprooted 2 ай бұрын

It’s always the biggest variable with conditions, but the opportunities for pro felt pretty solid (March 2024)!

@markgersman1589 2 ай бұрын

You guys are freakin crazy. Cant believe your mom lets you do this!!!!

@CommieHunter7 2 ай бұрын

😂

@anticlub1982 2 ай бұрын

sick climb

@10pound 2 ай бұрын

So beautiful 🏳‍🌈

@hankmishima4798 2 ай бұрын

Awesome adventure! Thanks for making the effort to shoot and edit. Ski boots all the way up? One person had skis but it appeared conditions may have not permitted a ski descent. Did you ever have to rely on your protection and did it hold as expected? It looked like a fair amount of water in one section and a couple of loose sections. This is the first video I have seen with a detailed running bely. These details are beneficial for people like me who are learning the sport. One of the best Hood videos I have seen!

@RadishUprooted 2 ай бұрын

Hey thanks! These are the details I was looking for before I climbed it too! We did indeed climb in ski boots, I personally find my ski boots more comfortable for ice climbing than my mountaineering/ice climbing boots--and they have the same degree of performance and protection, if not more. My climbing partner skied the Old Chute from the summit ridge--I can't imagine DKH is a viable ski line ever, to say nothing of the potential for climbing parties on their way up. The ice quality was definitely variable throughout, but there was enough places that had either quality enough ice for screws, or quality enough snow for pickets. I trusted almost every piece of pro we placed, but no one took a whipper on anything. People did take rests that fully weighted the belay stations, and we were half-hanging at all belay stations so they were constantly weighted. The only time a pice looked suspect was a picket at our second belay station after cooking in the direct sun for a while. But we just backed it up with an extra picket and felt fine about it.

@TheSringel 2 ай бұрын

that does look fun!

@haroldshields4724 2 ай бұрын

Radish this is a great video. Good photography and well narrated. Question: How many pieces of protection did you use for each pitch?

@RadishUprooted 2 ай бұрын

Great question! Let’s see… so for the first belay anchor we used one screw and one picket. For the first pitch (including the 3 main ice steps), we used 4 screws and one picket. The second belay station was built right above the 3rd ice step/crux with 2 screws and one picket. From there we simul-climbed and I think as a team we placed two pickets during that stretch before unroping and finishing the climb solo.

@Meyer0656 2 ай бұрын

You have balls.

@soleilpacetti2312 Ай бұрын

I am really interested in getting into mountaineering. Wondering where you recommend beginning? This looks so fun

@RadishUprooted Ай бұрын

Depends where you live and the experiences you already have! I personally love learning in the field from and with friends who have similar goals. But you can also join local orgs (Portland has the Mazamas, Seattle has the Mountaineers). And there may be great local Facebook groups that organize meetups so you can make future adventure partners! In the meantime, research, learn online, practice in low consequence terrain.