This peak has been on my objective list for 2 years now. So the anticipation and stoke were high going into Memorial Day weekend in 2023. After grabbing permits at Marblemount, we began the climb from Cascade River Road. The route immediately forces you to ford the North Fork of the Cascade River, flowing fast, cold, and deep past the knees. Once our trail runners were thoroughly soaked, we began climbing through incredibly steep and dense forest. Eventually the trees gave way to an equally-steep boulder field. Marmots whistled and pikas squeaked at us as we scrambled over their homes. The rock hopping was actually quite fun, but the weight and bulk of the skis on our backs quickly dragged on us.
Exiting the boulder field, we found decent snow coverage, and finally transitioned the skis off our packs and onto our feet where they belong. We skinned up the Eldorado Basin to a notch in the ridge dividing it from the Roush Basin. The only line through the notch was a steep class 3 gulley on snow bridges and wet slab. In ski boots. At this point, day light was fading fast. We struggled through the notch in the oncoming darkness and quickly set up camp on a snowy ridge in Roush Basin…
We woke up in a white-out. Wrapped tightly inside a thick cloud blanket with a mere 4 hours of sleep, we broke down camp. We roped up and began skinning up the Roush Basin and onto the Eldorado Glacier. The clouds began burning off in a dazzling display of classic Cascade weather. As we gained the glacier, massive crevasses opened up all around us. We found a safe flat spot on the glacier to set up a basecamp in this new world of ice and snow. Then our rope team wrapped around a cliff band and onto the Inspiration Glacier to gain the East Ridge of Eldorado.
Climbing the ridge, the heart of the North Cascades came into view everywhere we looked. Stunning peaks, glaciers, valleys, and volcanoes. But our mission was still ahead. The ridge twisted as it funneled us onto the iconic knife edge. Either side of the knife edge fell sharply away thousands of feet below, and we were forced to abandon our skis for crampons. We set a running belay by placing snow pickets for protection in case of a fall or slide. And before we knew it, all three of us were clipped in direct to our anchor on the tiny, crowded, and exposed summit. Clouds swirled around us and the sun periodically broke through.
After down climbing the knife edge, we stepped back into our skis and carved some fantastic turns along the Inspiration Glacier back onto the Eldorado Glacier and all the way back to base camp. Time for dinner…
I unzipped my tent atop the Eldorado Glacier and was met with the morning sun rising over a sea of clouds blanketing the valleys far below. We made breakfast, packed up camp, and stepped back into our skis. We said goodbye to the world of ice and isolation, and dropped into the Roush Basin. The skiing was delightful, though a bit more cumbersome with heavy overnight gear on our backs. We made quick work of all the skiable snow before having to hike back down the dry boulder field and thickly forested trail. But parking lot beers were calling….
Feel free to message me with any questions or comments below!
IG: @RadishUprooted
5.27.23-5.29.23
8 mi, 7k vert
CHAPTERS
0:00 The Route
0:35 The Forest
1:56 The Boulder Field
4:49 The Glacier
8:23 The Knife Edge Summit
10:24 The Ski Descent
13:09 The Trip Report