Hi Stuart! That was an excellent and detailed video on servicing the drill chuck... I can only imagine how long it took the first time you did it having to figure out all these steps! Outstanding!!

Thank you so much for the detailed video. Your explanation on what to do with the toothed washer was clear and being able to physically see the shaft and how far to drive the washer (until it hits the shoulder on the shaft) saved this drill. I replaced my chuck and it was stuck on hammer drill, but after watching your video, I was able to fix it. Great video.

Stuart, I liked your detailed explanation of how to replace the chuck. Very thorough! I can only imagine that there were quite a few times that you took apart the drill to work out how to do this. The result is an excellent video, clearly illustrating the difficulty that is encountered. Very informative!

Thankyou for your work, you have saved me a lot of time trying to figure out how how to remove my seized chuck or money in buying another drill.

Thank You for posting this video. It helped me a lot. I'm in the UK and most parts seem to be available for this drill. The chuck had seized up, so decided to replace it. Got it apart ok with help from a different you tube video. As many have experienced, getting the chuck off the spindle is a big struggle. I was reluctant to use so much heat around the spindle for fear of altering the temper of the steel . I bought a new spindle as well as a new chuck. When the spindle arrived in the post I initially thought they'd sent me the wrong one as it had a bearing and a serrated disc as part of it. Didn't realise that this bit was in the nose of the gearbox and was retained when the old spindle was knocked out. Seeing your video here, showing the serrated part for the hammer action that's pressed onto the spindle put me back on track. All fixed now and back up and running. Thank You 🤓

You rock. Thankyou so much. I bought a chuck for 36$. Repaired it myself. 300~$ drill fixed. Rock on!!

Stuart -I watched your excellently detailed video. Not sure the year you made this, but I had the same realization 5 years ago when my chuck failed. The 'factory' changed out the entire drill - no repair. While I own many Dewalt products (most use same battery), this design has started pushing me back to Milwaukee. Yes, what was Dewalt thinking to release such a convoluted design. I call this "win the battle, lose the war". Dewalt - THANKS FOR THE EDUCATION!

Stuart you are a very very clever guy . love all your video's and remember stay safe and make 🍺🍺👍👍🇬🇧

Stuart this is the 3rd or 4th time I commented on your video, each time I learn a lot more. Regrettably I own two of these exact same drills. Let me say that this is the best DIY video I have ever watched; extremely detailed, very thorough. You are a real pro. I have replaced the chuck on one of these twice and once on the newer one which I bought new 3 mos ago. I offer the following comments based on my experience using and abusing these drills. - If I had it to do all over again I would never ever purchase this drill. Don't be fooled by the brand name. The chuck is an inferior design, the achilles heel, so to speak. It jams frequently and replacing the chuck is not for the weak of heart. You will end up at some point either changing the chuck or discarding the drill; the only question is when. It is a major undertaking, as Stuart so eloquently explains. Replacing the chuck on other brands even if a little more expensive, does not involve complete disassembly of the drill. I would consider Makita , Milwaukee or Bosch or even another brand name. - This drill does work well, but in a workshop (light duty) environment so do not entertain using it for heavy jobs. Dust is its biggest enemy. My two drills were used for drilling granite rocks in preparation for rock splitting. That means getting the body of the drill too hot to touch and having the chuck absorb lots of rock dust and then subsequently dealing with constant jamming and cleaning before having the pleasure of replacing the chuck. For heavy jobs like mine, do yourself a favor and go out and buy or rent an SDS rotary hammer drill say with a 1" or larger chuck because, otherwise, like me, you will pay a heavy price. In my case, I thought it was only going to be one rock and it ended up being perhaps 10-15 in total over several months. Each time I thought; this is the last one so why look for a heavy duty drill. As I pointed out, my chucks lasted only 3 mos. Dewalt designed the chuck so you would be incentivized to replace the whole drill and not just the chuck. - If you do this job yourself, take plenty of photos as you go along, and do not overlook Stuart's recommendation to rebuild the hammer mechanism as well. That is not optional. - On my first rebuild, I followed Stuart's advice and used JB Weld (epoxy) instead of Locktite and it worked out well. Matter of fact i had to use heat to separate the shaft from the chuck, so no worries about the chuck coming loose. - If you already own this drill, baby it, because replacing the chuck will really challenge you and frustrate you and like me it is not a job you want to do twice; or even once. Having a shop change if for you will be expensive. There were times in doing this job I considered putting a gun to my head and pulling the trigger. Fortunately I do not own a gun, just two nightmarish Dewalt hammer drills.: It was Stuart's video that kept me from borrowing a pistol from a neighbor. If you do own a gun I recommend not tackling this job. I am still amazed at how Stuart figured out how do this by himself. One final comment is for all potential users who do not own a Dewalt drill, hammer or otherwise, and who do not believe my comments, browse KZfaq and look at all the videos on how to fix a jammed Dewalt chuck and a few others on changing the chuck.

😂😂😂Whadatheyf****n callthat? The story of my life! Hi Stuart, just found your channel through a comment you made on Hand Tool Rescue. Binge watched a few posts but it’s time to get into my day. Subscribed, I look forward to more. Cheers from North Queensland.

Great video of a nightmare repair. I finally got frustrated and trashed the whole mess.

Umm... built in obselesense has been with us for several years now with all sorts of stuff... grr. Didn't know these drills were so complicated, great vid stuart, thanks

Nice job Stuart! It really bugs me that companies continue to structure things for repeat sales rather than long life and repairability! Even if they have the knowhow, most people will still find it more economical just to buy a new drill unfortunately! Enjoyed the out-takes! 🤣 Cheers, Chris

Brilliant method mate. Probably beyond my skill set. Glad I don’t have a Dewalt drill. My crappy Ozito does what I want from it and if it ever fails, it won’t break the bank to replace.

Great education man! Thank you for posting!

Stuart, here I am commenting again on your superb video. I own two of these which don't seem to appreciate drilling basalt rock (extremely hard volcanic rock) in preparation to splitting rocks with wedge and feathers. This is a dusty job and drill bits die quickly and often turn red hot in the process. The 2nd of these drills I not to many months ago replaced the chuck, but after doing so the hammer feature does not work. Followed your instructions but must have done something wrong. I am in the process of dis-assembling it again to look inside the hammer housing. Turns out that I abused and punished the drill to such a degree that one of the two gears that mesh together to produce the hammer action is worn out. Looking at your video made it clear to me that the gear inside the housing (not on the shaft) had no teeth remaining. No more basalt rocks for these two drills. Lost too many brain cells repairing these two characters and besides I have to use several diffferent dia. bits to get to the final 5/8" hole and the bits are not cheap and have a short lifespan. I recently bought a large Bosch hammer drill (1-5/8") 15 lbs. and what used to take me 4-5 hours and 2 recharges and short chuck life, with the Dewalt drills can accomplished in 10 minutes. The Bosch uses SDS Max bits which have a shaft dia. of 18mm and lock solidly into the Bosch chuck. I learned that it is better to buy the right tool for the right job. I finally realized that in digging holes for planting trees and constantly encountering large rocks was a situation that would not end anytime soon. I can put a 5/8" bit (final size) and complete a hole in one shot and the bit lasts and lasts. You rightly point out that Dewalt's chuck design is inferior and if you push the drill too hard or use it on dusty jobs you will soon replace the chuck through a combination of jamming and slippage of the jaws. Replacing a chuck is not a job for the light of heart and is not something you do not want to do more than once in your life given that life is hard enough as is. This will be my fourth and hopefully my last attempt at this. Having said, that I copied your video onto my computer in the event that one day it is censored by youtube and deemed to contain offensive content. Hope not, but might be doing teardown #5 at a future date.

The chuck on my DCD996 needs to be replaced. After watching this very informative video I have decided to say screw you. DeWalt. I am going to replace my DeWalt with a Milwaukee hammer drill. It's a little more expensive but it's also more durable. And I am NOT going to give DeWalt any more of my money because they have screwed up a simple operation that I could have done myself. In fact, when my DeWalt stuff goes bad I will eventually replace everything with Milwaukee. My son uses it at work in construction...it's 10 years old and no problems. My nephew is a deck builder and her uses Milwaukee power tools also.

Great video. Thanks to Dewalt for making it a total PITA. Managed to strip both my 796 down but could never get the arbour off. I’ll try the heat trick. Will never buy another dewalt drill. Gone back to Makita

Good video - thanks mate. I think that replacement spindle from the UK would be the winner for me - that and a nice German ROHM chuck. Swap the fancy chuck onto another drill in future if the rest of it fails. BTW on the 887 impact the motor, trigger, and control board with wiring in between is one part that is more than the whole unit, just shameful. I wore the trigger out on mine and that meant wearing out the PCB in the control board - very tricky if not impossible to repair.

Thank you, very helpfully video guide, i looking a long how replace chuck

Thank you for the informative video I appreciate it.

thanks so very much, good video

Sir nice work

Hi there Thanks for fantastic video. I managed change the chuck on DCD999 but my gun is in hammer mode on any position. Any idea what I can do?

I just changed my Dewalt chuck the other night in a few minutes 1 the center screw is a TORX T-20 bit with a left handed thread to remove it ....that means turn it like you are tightening to remove it then get a large allen key and lock it into the chuck and strike it with a hammer real good it will take some good hits to the chuck to remove but it will come off the normal way

very helpful

great video! i am wondering if that extreme heat will wrap the shaft??

Thanks

If you put the drill in hammer mode before taking it apart and knocking the chuck and harbour out would that have prevented it getting stuck in hammer mode ?

262 threadlocker? It WILL take heat to take apart. Would blue 242 be strong enough?

For removing the Chuck from the shaft,put flat sides in a vise very tight, take a 9mm socket with a breaker bar and just break it separate,easy as that

Hi, I'm from Argentina. Your video save my drill, but I have a question, how do you apply the necessary torque to the chuck the last time? Can you explain to me how to firmly tighten the shaft in order to apply the necessary torque? Have you used some adhesive? Sorry for the bad wording, my English is not good. Thanks a lot. 👍

Que presión tiene

Hi Stuart Thanks for the the show I was in Sydney for 20 years now I'm in France with my DeWalt DCD796 XE with a broken chuck Could you please help me to find the correct part number chuck with a key for this drill Being not far away from England I might have a chance. On my side I still try my luck Thank Mate DomIJ

G'day mate loving your channel I used to have old Hitachi first of the 18v Kit and eventually spent $ on a Milwaukee kit with much larger batteries But missed the Hitachi compact/ strong drill I found a bloke on eBay who 3D prints adaptors so I now clip the adaptor onto my old Hitachi drill then clip Milwaukee battery onto the adaptor Has given old drill a new life Just a thought mate as you could buy a better drill and adaptor and still be compatible with your old gear Just a thought mate 👍 PS unbelievable how good my old Hitachi has been I've already replaced Milwaukee chuck once while old Hitachi is still original

Here's a small tip for free to get that chuck off in 30 seconds. Get a 10 mil Hex Key and put the long side in the chuck and tighten it as far as you can, tap down on the short end rotating it after every tap and the whole shaft and Chuck will come out of the drill with no damage to the drill or chuck. The hammer setting, you don't have to take the drill apart to rectify it. All you have to do is turn the selector to hammer drill and a good tap with a soft hammer on the end of the fully opened Chuck. Also, before assembly, inject some CV joint grease into the cavity with a large syringe.

Tuebe que rebanar todo el chok quirugicamente cas casi hasta llegar a la rosca para debilitarla, el problema es que el eje resorteea y evita el afloje cuando estan demasiado apretado

The evil empire of tools (Stanley Black and Decker) strikes back. I will try to have them replace the chuck before the 3 year warranty expires.

Where did the roller bearing go 😊

Hey bub!! Subbed!! Stay safe. New friend here! 🙏🤘Brad

They have designed it to be *not* repairable so you are forced to buy a new one because you are committed to their bloody batteries. 3D printing has made it possible to easily print adapters so other brand batteries will fit your tools. At some stage the need to commit to a brand because they have a proprietary battery connection will come to an end. Maybe the EU will force the issue. They don't put up with crap like that. They forced phone manufactures to make the connection from the charger to be a common one. This save 55,000 tonnes of e-waste in the EU each year from people throwing their old chargers out when they purchased a new phone. Companies can be such bastards. *Thank You* for the video and I will stick with the _disposable_ Ozito/Einhell range at my age. The 5 year warranty will outlast me if I'm lucky. 👍

Cual es el calle

When the yank cordless stuff first came here to Australia it was not to badly priced, although I was surprised to see it was brushed motors, it went okay. When they finally moved to brushless motors and doubled their price I stopped buying their products. My first Milwaukee drill went the same way your drill did, and they would not fix it under warranty, "normal wear" and yes, it was considered throw away, could not buy the parts. My second one is starting to show similar symptoms, so probably not long before I bin that as well. I had also flirted with their corded power tools as well, having both Milwaukee and DeWalt grinders, not very impressed with either the build quality or performance. I have gone back to good old reliable Makita for all my power tools. In my opinion the yank tools are overpriced and poorly built.

This is much more difficult to do on the 796.. They changed the hammer mode housing.. I had to freeze the shaft before the hammer sprog would fit back on it.. Also the lid of the silver housing that contains the other half of the hammer sprog actually needs to go onto the shaft before you reassemble it.. If you forget to do that and install the hammer sprog back on shaft.. the sprog itself wont fit through the hole in the very front of the silver housing.. Ask me how I know ???..Lol

I bought a new chuck for my 996 assuming it came off with a hex screw. Looks like I’ll be buying a new drill instead. 😂😭

I cut mine off with a cutoff wheel, took about 5min and my new chuck screwed right on

Second comment here, yeah, how about the 'quick chuck'? A lot of brands are going that route and I don't like it.

Me arrepiento de haber comprado ese pinche taladro tan difícil de cambiar el mandril

This is the reason I didn't buy this model. I also change them to Rohm chucks as the Dewalt ones are 💩

Easier to just pry the chuck out. Saw a video, many tried it and suceeded👍

Muchas veces ni calentando lo aflojas,

What a nightmare repair! They clearly expect it to be thrown out and not repaired. Shameful!

Very high difficulty, to replace only the spindle of the DCD996 DeWalt you have to disassemble the whole drill, this is really absurd. In other brands of drills it is sufficient to unscrew the screw located in the lower part of the spindle. Perhaps it is preferable to buy a new one.

Very high difficulty, to replace only the spindle of the DCD996 DeWalt you have to disassemble the whole drill, this is really absurd. In other brands of drills it is sufficient to open the chuck and unscrew the screw located on the inside of the chuck. However, the guy in the video who took the drill apart had to put the proper grease in all the gears, which he didn't. Instead of letting inexperienced people get their hands, it is preferable to buy another new drill.

Probably with the new law (right to repair) this design will be banned. I really don't see any advantage nor reason -except one only- why the chuck can not be removed with a left hand screw.