I will also verify that this video is 100% accurate in its instruction as I do own this same bow and have also made these adjustments. To answer the question about the change in draw length, yes setting your cable stops to the next setting like B will add an extra half inch, thus increasing your valley just as you may want but also probably making the valley longer than you wish. Try it without the limb stop first to get a feel for the difference before bolting on your limb stop. Shoot a few arrows and see. Then you use your limb stop to finely tune how much extra draw you want in your valley, like maybe shaving 1/4” or so back off the draw. make sense? This makes it so you aren’t just adding 1/2” extra valley to your full draw, but keep in mind the limb stop is going to then also give you a very solid back wall. So if you didn’t want the hard wall, you’ve lost that choice with this adjustment. I found on my bow (without this adjustment) that if I let up on my back tension even slightly, the bow will take off and try to rip my arm out of the socket when I try to fight back on it. I’m also using a Trueball Fulcrum Flex hinge release which made all this even more frightening when the bow rolled over on me during a draw. Once I changed over to this, the bow now has a much more forgiving valley and is a pleasure to hold at anchor. I do also favor the solid back wall of the limb stop so I’m good with that. I can also now hold at anchor pretty much indefinitely (which I could not do before) and my draw length is only roughly 1/4” longer after setting my limb stop. Also, if you do not have someone to help you adjust the position of your limb stop then I suggest doing what I did and build yourself a draw board or buy one. I was able to draw the bow out on my draw board to ‘exactly’ the point in draw where I wanted the limb stop and then tighten it up there. Perfect! As a final note, Hoyt has corrected the aggressiveness of the cams on this bow in the 2018 RX1, but they changed more than the cams, the limbs and bow design also changed to accommodate the nicer valley they added. Unfortunately, you’d have to also trade up for the new bow, which I have not. Oh yes, and one final thing I also did to gain that last bit of confidence and control was to lower my draw weight on the bow. However, that is a very personal performance choice you’ll need to make on your own.

This a great mod and removes the "jump" my turbo carbon defiant was notorious for. Thanks for posting.

Don’t forget if you mess with the cam modules on this bow to use a Torque wrench set to 15 in. Lbs. to tighten them back up. (As specified in the manual.)

Very helpful! Thanks for sharing!

Great video dude... Thanks

Are u a 28 inch draw that’s what I am I have number 3cam which puts my cams 28 to 30 Just wondering if I should’ve went with the number 2 cam which is 26 to 28

Привет из России! Вся эта перестановка возможна только если блоки28-30 а растяжка меньше 30 ,а когда блоки 26-28 и растяжка 28 то все сделать ничего нельзя. А жаль . Я это у себя попробовал и понял что это невозможно.

The bow is normally 75% letoff, with guessing what are you thinking it is now? Or are you saying the valley just feels slightly deeper and the % of letoff stays the same?

So I have a 27" draw lengths how wold I set this up on my hoyt defiant turbo

It doesn’t get locked in full draw once moving the draw stop?

I have a defiant and I’m new to Hoyt I had a PSE before and the valley was so much nicer. Now that I have the Hoyt once I hit the back wall it want to jump and I can’t get it very steady like I could with the PSE. By doing what you showed is it going to help with that or no?

Is this still working any damage to the bow after awhile

So you added half an inch draw or are you 28 1/2?

Do you need a bow press to do this?

Will this slow down your arrow speed?