Thanks for your comment!

Your comment is old but I'll respond with my own experience. Not all LED lights will need a CANBUS Decoder. Some LED headlights have internals that either include such components or have a power draw close enough to what your car's computer/ECU will be looking for thus not popping up an error message. So it will depend on the exact ones you get and install.

I have the same question.

The Autoone LED lights listed in the description doesn't come with an external decoder, but many people have found them to work well with Honda vehicles without issue.

No. That is basically running around with high beams on 24/7. Not good

Daniel McDonald I doubt it because that part of the car is suppose to get hot, have you ever popped the hood open while driving for a while, it’s super hot. Plastic melts at 500 degrees and I don’t think they put cheap plastic in cars where it gets hot they probably have some durable stuff in there

This is long after your question, but 170F is quite hot. That definitely can melt plastic. Anything softer than ABS plastic that is. I would wrap mechanic's wire tightly around the canbus's housing and use pliers to twist the connecting points of the wire. Leave a lot of extra wire on the end of the twisted together wire to mount the canbus to the header panel or rad support. (Really, anywhere that is steel and away from plastic and wires and your rad fan) ;-)

Check polarity and make sure contacts are actually touching and check for voltage with a Multimeter

In most cases, yes, a CANBUS decoder will fix the issue. But sometimes it's a trial and error.

I install decoder it works for drl but when i turn on headlight it gives again check headlight lamp message what could be the problem?? I haven't change high beam is it because of that?

The LED lights work fine. I switch them out because I review different lights on my channel.

dial2fast thanks. What do you use for the low beam 9006 that looks super white like this one?

Auxbeam F16 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rttzadN2mpiVmYU.html

2008 Honda Odyssey

Install load resistors in parallel with the LED light.

@@dial2fast thank you.

No they do not.

The lights are defective. Return it.

@@dial2fast so all the lights are defective because I've bought 4 different ones and none work

Did youget it fixed? Same thing happend to me

I also would like to know the answer to this. I have 2013 Civic and i get strong Fm radio interference even when using ferrites

I bought these and they barely reduce the output of the bulb and pretty much run at full power. You can notice about a 5-10% increase/decrease in light output when the high beams are turned on in comparison to the DRL’s. Any suggestions?

​@@SaintNick289 I have basically abandoned the idea of having dual function DRL and High Beams. Those that work in these modes are way, way overpriced and not that bright either (I've got 30,000 X-7Seven Apollos and and 40,000 lumen YKHOMs LEDs in my projectors and they are amazingly bright, without the glare). Instead, I've bought SOCAL Switchback LEDs to replace my existing Signal/Parking lights. Funny you just posted this, as I received the switchbacks a few weeks ago and was planning to do this project today, but it's raining. Basically, I'm planning to cut the front parking light bulb circuit and feed a new 12V wire from a relay powered on by the DRL warning light circuit, cutting its wire off from the DRL warning bulb on the dash. This way, when the DRL is called for, the DRL bulbs in the switchback would be turned on though the new relay powered on by the DRL warning bulb circuit, while the bulb itself would be permanently turned off on the dash. In essence, the parking lights would be transformed into DRLs and there would be no more DRL warning light on the dash, but I would have no more parking lights at night. But first, I'll see how they work at night as a parking/signal light and see if the DRL bulbs are tolerable and don't glare other drivers, because they are very bright. If they work this way, then I'd simply turn my parking lights on during daytime, which is not a bad idea anyway. The SOCAL Switchbacks have a good finned passive heatsink and don't overheat as DRLs from testing them for hours on end with no outside air cooling. They incorporate a 'canbus decoder' for the flashers that's just a parallel 20W resistor that I'm planning to remove and instead, replace the existing mechanical flasher relay with an electronic one to get rid of hyperflashing. I just don't like the idea of these parallel resistors, they generate too much heat when flashers are used as hazard lights (for signaling a few seconds it's no problem).

That's what I was wondering. I thought the video was going to explain where to hide those things. I just taped them with electrical tape as far from the engine as possible... but I have a feeling It's not going to last

You can see it in this video, but at night time there’s an insane difference between the two.