Most excellent achievement. I don't know what magical metal the base of the burn chamber is, but I agree it's very hard.

I thank you for all your hard work and dedication I'm interested in diesel heaters

I'm so happy to see your channel is doing so well now

Fun stuff! I admire you sticking to this project when it takes SO much fiddling.

I love you're burning waste oil Videos.❤ I can't get enough of those! 😊👍

this takes me back to when I used to operate an old furnace used to heat crude oil, it had 42 burners that could run oil or gas, it was a terrifying beast, whet turning gas on or off you could get blowback giving a bang like a cannon with 3mtr flame face height, burning oil could give unburnt fuel in furnace with pools of unburnt fuel under the furnace, all operators were extremely wary of the beast. Never understood how we were allowed to run such a hazard

I was the dysfunctional Student a Year Ago . Look at me now paying attention and Shit ... LoL , well done Joel . I look forward to many more Teachings ... Professor. Hahaha

it's like "the curse of Oak Island" or all the "Bigfoot" shows. I'm convinced it won't work... but if it does I wanna be there to see it! Keep it coming! Prove me wrong!

Video length and content are a good mix. Very clear. Thanks.

Keep climbing that mountain!

I still run 40% waste oil /veggie/whatever isn't gelled at 15 degF, 50% virgin diesel/jet A/ heating oil (preference) and 10% petrol in the main burn, 100% heating oil (or 95% ho 5% petrol) manifolded so that I start on heating oil and switch to main oil mix after I get to temperature and 5 min before shutting down. Startup and shut down are full power. Now I use 2-55 gal drums to hyper filter the mix before transferring to a 3rd mix tank. Full power all day for 10 days. 😊 cheap enuf to change each at end of season, overhaul and set aside old ones for next year or scrap for parts.

Great idea to use the second ecu and pump. Much more better control on the fuel/oil. Look forward to your work.

Joel, I'm assuming that you have watched some waste oil wood stove videos that people have made - to help you come up with this latest idea. Either way - you need a needle valve to better control the waste oil feed. More so since you are using a pump to deliver the waste oil vs drip feed. (I'm not claiming to be any expert - by any means. I've simply have gone down the rabbit hole watching a lot of videos to find the best way for me to heat a large garage space.) My 2 cents worth is to take what is known that works with those style of waste oil drip feed heating units and apply them to what you are doing and I think you will really have something. It might also get you there faster too. I look forward to more videos. All the best, Tony

I'm looking forward to the next attempt with the 2 ECU'S , that will be really cool if it works well.

You need to use something like titanium-stabilized 409 Series stainless-steel if you want high thermal survival. 304 stainless can work also

An idea I've thought of is using 2 fuel pumps in parallel (assuming the mosfet on the motherboard has the power to drive 2 fuel pumps in parallel). But having the secondary burn oil pump only kick on when the heater is up to temp (using a 12v thermostat relay). You can 'adjust' the amount of fuel injected by getting a smaller fuel/larger cc pump Or even better the silent dose pump controller that you can adjust, have you seen them? I agree with inconel or stainless steel for the burn chamber if you can buy some / tig weld. Or perhaps nickel plating the burn chamber? (its really easy to do, and have a higher melting point than steel) Edit: just watched to the end, 2 ECU's would also work!

Black diesel... Is most likely the closest you will get. If you search " Black diesel " you will find lots of ratios, some as low as a pint of diesel to 5 gals of waste oil. Good Luck thx for sharing

Great engineering right there really interesting. I kinda like these long videos where you go into detail :D you can buy sight glasses for gas or diesel heater that you can cover the hole and have the advantage of seeing the inside

Nice work. Very interesting.

Hi Joel. The problem with all alternate fuels is first the dirt plugs the pumps and second the amount of ash produced requires constant cleaning. Your solution of an air lift pump is a good one. Your choice to then push the dirty oil through a nozzle is not. We have solved the problem by using the 50 year old method of Babington. And a simple 3-5psi gasoline lift pump to move the dirty oil. The other huge success we learned is from the screen around the gloplug. You have the same SS mesh that we use, BUT you are not using it in the same way we are. You are using a sleeve with a hole in it to pass the oil thru. We use 2 flat disks of SS screen which get red hot and we drip the oil onto these SS screens. This turns the yellow flame you have to white with blue tips. No more orange/yellow in the flame at all. This was an accidental discovery which somehow reduces the ash by 80-90%. Our burner is VERTICAL, not horizontal and exits first into a vertical tank, similar to a 30lb propane tank. The exhaust leaves from the top of the tank, the ash collects in the bottom of the tank...... We have another system on the side of a wood stove which works equally as well and can go months between cleaning. It uses the same 3psi gasoline pump dripping on a modified Babington ball with 2 X 0.010 air holes in it. The burner is a piece of 3" SS schedule 40 pipe with a strong back on it as it was drooping from the heat. No screen or mesh needed. Both of these system can benefit from your use of the CDH ECM, but neither of them need it. Both of them have been running for years. No thought has ever been given to cost or volume of oil burned as our supplies are unlimited. The first system is waste engine oil and the second is used fryer oil. The shop Cummins 1T also starts on diesel, runs on fryer oil and shuts down on diesel. 6 years on it now. I know it is fun to re-invent the wheel every few years, but we find it more fun to take where the last guy stopped and improve from there. I gave the fried with the shop wood stove my design and 2 months later went to check up on him. What he was using did not remotely resemble my drawings. When I ask him why, his response was that my (proven 30 year old design) did not work worth a shit. I absolutely agree.

Keep up the good work 👏

I have an idea I’m not sure if you have explored… film cooling like is in a jet engine. In the compressor section of a turbine, the blades in the compressor section of a modern engine take bleed air from the compressor and the air is expelled from little holes in the blade that provide a thin layer of air that’s cool which decouples the hot air from the blade surface. I haven’t figured how to do that yet but it’s the idea I’m working on.

GREAT VIDEO, It getting better and better all the time .ps, if it was me I think I would put the diesel kleen octane booster in oil it's helped me alot but I'm just running diesel

No worries I own the rotary tool for over a year (very nice upgrade over the dremel) and 2kw diesel heater waiting to be installed

Good job!

Something I've been thinking about for a long time; have you considered putting an air nozzle in the burn chamber to blow the ash/crud out? Maybe a quick burst of compressed air every few minutes to clear stuff out before it can accumulate. An electric valve and timer could automate it.

As in waste oil burners ,heat the oil too 150/160 F that worked in my Becket veg oil conversion.

I think you should announce that May 1 or close to that date you will try your sea doo again! That vid was also awesome!

WOW, very hot ! I wonder how long before the aluminum exchanger melts 😮

Awesome as usual

I believe the better quality burn chambers are made from austenitic stainless steel alloys such as 21-2N and 21-4N. The cheaper heaters seem to get some lower grades of stainless, even cheap alloys. The ultimate material to use for burn chamber parts would be Iconel (718) steel.

If you take some sodium hydroxide drain cleaner and water at a 2 parts water to 1 parts sodium hydroxide. you can soak the flex shaft burr bit in that for a min or 3 and the aluminum will melt off of any bit. I always have a cup full on my bench to clean bits up.

use fiberglass exhaust wrap as a wick in your second burn chamber

Are you aware of the old style heavy oil burners who has a tapered rotating funnel, that draw out a very thin film of oil thats easy to ignite 👍 I think it will also leave a lot of residue , so converting waste oil to diesel may be the way to go

Sorry about the disappointing test, but I'm sure you have a disappointment callous by now. Anxious to see how the dual ECU approach works out. Best of luck!

I cut the screen from the air intake side of the heater out makes the heater less noisy. I know thats irrelevant when you have the exhaust in the same spot as the heater itself but might be good to know for other folks. Please excuse my bad spelling Greetings from Germany

Burning waste oil, is getting less popular, unless its your own engine oil , and you know its NOT synthetic. My buddy who has a waste oil furnace heating his house for 30 years is having problems getting burnable waste oil. He actually was asking how my solar setups were working, and then I told him about solar water heating 😊

Please finish that siphon nozzle project... will work perfect...

I want to see more about that Mazdapseed3 👀

Cheers , thanks for sharing all your experiences through these videos , I think every gear head is pulling for you here. Getting clean heat off of waste oil for a reasonable cost that would be great for any home shop.

I got a bunch of waste oil and just got my 3rd heater... still sticking with strait diesel for now. Soooooo, are you going to create/design an aftermarket burn chamber to market, that's capable of burning waste oils w/o clogging up???

Waste oil. I've experimented with it as well from time to time. It can be very fickle. But I enjoy the videos you have done with the heater. I have 4 5kW heaters that I use. 3 for heating, and one for testing. 🙂 One thing I've found in burning WMO is that synthetic burns differently and is far more stinky and produces more CO. Although I've has have good success running WVO/diesel mixture. As for the 2 ECU's for one heater, I'm intrigued. And I was just having a thought earlier today. How about 2 heaters off one ECU?

I think what is happening with the choo choo train effect is the waste oil pot is too hot and the small amount of fuel that the pump trickles in is being burned too fast, most oil burner pots need to have the oil in a puddle inside. I would let the chamber fill with a little oil while the heater is starting up, and once the oil is burning, let the pump rip and shut down the diesel. Maybe even let the pump handle diesel and use the dripper for oil.

A tea light burning inside a soup can will trick an ECU to run. Put your temp sensor on the top of the can. I haven't figured out how to not have the fan running running though. 🙃

Yea I was gonna say higher end stainless. Just beware of cracking espically from expansion.

11:12 stainless steel

Awesome vid…

If you didn't watch first video then this one doesn't have any sense, no video makes any sense 😂😅Just joking you are diesel heater hero 👍can't wait for 3rd one 🎸👍

Question. Why not inject to the same chamber? 2 fuel inlets in 1st chamber, and keep the 2nd chamber if it’s helping by its mass and glowing.

May need something with tungsten Carbide or hard chrome. Alternatively 4140, as it contains higher chromium and Molybdenum..

Another good one 👍🏻👍🏻👑👑🤟🏻👑🤟🏻

Its temp of burn chamber.. I think the only way to run these with waste oil is to run them at extreme danger heat levels where the alumimum casting is in danger of melting. I use waste oil in a foundry and once the furnace is up to temp it burns SO clean. Try using 421 stainless steel parts. that steel is designed for direct flame very very high temp

Can you please try - AVGAS 100LL - E85 Love your vids.

The burn chamber might be stainless or titanium. I would assume stainless as it is much cheaper. Either option could potentially work for you in the future.

Are you pre-heating the waste oil? That would change the viscosity.

More nonsense! I love it. I have 2 diesel heaters. Im sure i will never run oil to them, but it is still interesting.

Sooooooo....... I suppose if a guy was to wonder why some widget is so expensive, all they need to do is refer to this video series to find out why... It is the hours upon hours of trial and error. The material, the tools, and the tenacity to see if something will work all with NO guarantee of even being paid minimum wage for the hours spent on a particular project. Ok, in this particular case, KZfaq is subsidizing some of the cost, however, in most instances the trial and error along with the critical thinking are done away from a camera. This is a unique insight....

Curious, Is there Any reason you have Not just built an adjustable Pulse Circuit using like a 555 timer with either a Mosfet or Transistor's as a power driver to pulse the Pumps? I was going to mess with Making the the Chamber fan Separate from the heat exchange using two different fans & a PWM speed controller for the fan's which removes the need for having any ECU's at all.

You need stainless! That or cast iron is about the only thing that will hold up to the heat.

You might try Stainless steel maybe?

What exactly is your ultimate goal?

Inconel, Monel, or another similar "super" stainless steel. I'm guessing Monel because Inconel is an even bigger pain in the ass to machine.

Feeding a diesel heater waste oil is like feeding a dog chocolate.

Everyone trying to burn wmo in these, r missing 1 big issue .... The body of these heaters simply arent big enough to to properly burn wmo , a single drop of wmo can flash up to a 1 ' x 1' ball of flame the only way this is going to work is if u use the heater as a burn head, and open it up into a secondary burn cjamber , something like what dave L did when he cut off the end of the exchanger but then attach a small tank to the end w some pipes running through it, basically making a bigger heat exchanger, and at the same time a bigger area for secondary burn .... Its pretty elementary the body isnt big enough to accommodate the secondary burn that is needed

👍

Why does your blue controller shut down at 238C? I'm running my blue controller at 245C and it's not shutting down.

ADE type dumper filter injection.. Maybe this gives you an idea.👍👍🕶🔥🍻

Hello! The hole as seen here, 20:58 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l-CBqph7x8nIXWg.html what diameter is the threaded hole? Thanks!

maybe it's a titanium-containing mixture Material ?🤔

If you manage to get this to work someone in China will have them on sale 5 minutes later

Hydronic waste oil video please...

Stainless

Titanium ...

"Promo SM"

Inconel

First!