DiodeGoneWild has done quite a few SMPS videos one or two years ago. Not just the dodgy chargers.

Hope he does more like this

i completely agree

approx was extremely low quality and cheap, it's not even worth disassembling, just throw it away

@ I did like a year ago when it happened

LOL

That particular psu looks like junk anyway

Yes, you could also use a NanoVNA. Basically anything which puts out a high frequency to bypass the inductor.

@@felixcat4346 hey bro can you help me regarding a problem with my smps i have a pc and i recently troubleshooting it for some reason during which i have found that my psu gives 24 volt ac along with 12 volt dc in output of 8 pin gpu connector is it normal to have ac output along with dc in power supply thanks

@@deadgamer9808 Don't rely on cheap multimeter readout.

@@erminbajric4633 ok :)

@@felixcat4346 and how about using IV Curve Tracer instead of NanoVNA ?

You're welcome!

Díky, není zač :)

Also the cheap five dollar USB soldering irons like big Clive has shown, or better is a $40 KSGER t12 station. You can even get a “laptop style” variable power supply. Mine was about $25 and is adjustable from 0-32 VDC at a couple of amps, and came with about 50 different interchangeable tips including plain jumper lead alligator clips, Several different types of BNC adapters, pretty much anything you could think of. Obviously that doesn’t compare with my professional lab and equipment, for around $100 that stuff will pretty much accomplish 95% of every repair. Seriously.

Sorry to bug you and add another comment. I’ll try to add other things that come across my mind which makes troubleshooting 10 times easier. Maybe all this rambling will help someone. Another thing very useful if you don’t have a thermal camera is the flux and vaporizer trick big Clive showed a few weeks ago. Others also have shown it on KZfaq. Will easily show hotspots on the board. Also some thing I find very useful is one of those cheap $25 wireless/Wi-Fi microscope’s. It has an internal rechargeable battery and is HD quality, with surface mount LEDs around the ring of the front of the lens. I have a few nice stereo microscope‘s in my lab, one is an M scope Asian model that I really love, and one is a very nice Zeiss from the early 90s. But honestly I grab that little $25 wireless microscope more than anything, to help spot shoulder joint issues and other things. Mines about the size of a lipstick too but you can also get them that are as big around as a small pencil, like something you would use to check the insides of your ears. Those can even see under BGA chips and find issues in other type to reach impossible to see areas of the board. Another cheap and ingenious way to find issues, is with a cheap UV blacklight flashlight. It will reveal things like capacitor fluid leakage, charred or heat damaged parts of the board, or where a component failed violently and really didn’t leave a trace because it vaporized… But it left a little spew of a vapor on the board which will be seen under different wavelengths of UV you can see many things that are invisible with regular lighting conditions. I prefer 365nm but it’s good to have several different wavelengths, especially these days they’ve become inexpensive. UVA, UVB, and UVC led lights can we had for just a few dollars each. They will eliminate many different issues on the board, some of which respond better to certain wavelengths so it’s good to have all three. I have a multicolored little $5 flashlight that includes 365nm uv, bright red, green, and then of course white. It constantly comes in handy and the UV light can even shine through the PCB material from the back, revealing issues or damage that might be between layers of the circuitboard, especially on multilayered boards.

Yeah those cheap transistor/ESR testers are great for close enough hobby/repair work, probably the best use of a ATmega328p I've seen.

PS, always discharge D-S before testing... ;-)

Well, it's better to use 2 lamps in series :)

Wow... How much watt was it?

@@barnabasnagy9595 I think he meant discharging the large capacitor. Wattage wouldn’t matter too much compared to the capacitance, given the 450V.

@@Conservator. I meant the wattage of the lamp, because I think it's harder to kill a 100w lamp than a 40w one.

The OEM is CWT, notorious for quality issues in the assembly and bad soldering.

That's the thing about super cheap off brand electronics, they pass the savings from having no QC on to you.

PC PSUs are not designed to last many years. There's parts in them that degrade over time. Namely the output filter capacitors. Tier 1 PSUs you might get a long service life out of. Seasonic is offering 12 year warranties. Generic PSUs you're lucky to get 5 years out of before they start putting out damaging ripple.

If you want reliability you have to use server PSUs, from companies like Delta or Artesyn. They are designed to be put in a rack and left there, and run for decades nearly 24/7

@@rfmerrill Not sure about that. Server supplies are designed to be swapped easily in a redundant configuration, not to last forever.