As always invaluable resource. The trick to lossen the trigger to get the mainspring in place is what I wish I had remember last night. Thank you

Thanks for a very helpful video Mike. I was very reluctant to take the gun down to this degree, but when I had a hammer jam I had no choice. A thorough cleaning did the trick. I had trouble getting the bolt back in the right position, but with a bit of pause and replay on your video (ok, a lot) I got it all back together and working great. This is a tremendous resource for us out here, and is greatly appreciated.

Thank you for this video. It is invaluable! I would disassemble the action every single time I cleaned my gun after shooting. The gun was a Pietta 1851 Navy. I became so good it became so easy and fast. Every single time I discovered pieces of caps, so I say, Yes, do it every time! Easy & Worth it!

for as great a technological advancement as these revolvers were over what came before them, the pure simplicity of the internals truly is a thing of beauty. As usual, another great video. Thanks again Mike, and continue on the road to expanding the interest and knowledge of your fans.

Awesome Video, I was really nervous about stripping the original 1851 Navy Colt I just bought to give it a really good cleaning, action was pretty gummy but after watching Mike's video it got a real good deep cleaning and re-assembly, now the action is smooth as butter.

Oh yea, this is the video I was looking for! What a resource Mike is for black powder revolvers. Back around the turn of the century when I first started shooting these cantankerous canons there was nothing out there that showed step by step breaking down and reassembly of the Colt actions. So after shooting I always took apart and cleaned the gun but left the frame intact. I cleaned it as best I could by squeezing black powder solvent into the works via the hammer and bolt and trigger. Then I would flush it all clean with WD-40, working the action as I did. Thanks to Mike now I can see how it is done. We can all see how it is done. Awesome black powder videos, I love everyone I watch!

Another excellent descriptive video, removing the mystery of complete disassembly makes life a great deal easier for people such as myself. I have noticed with all problems people have at the range poor maintenance indeed is a large factor. I am always anticipating your new videos when posted. Richard.

Mike, A helpful and useful video from an expert. My Colt 1861 was always an enigma under the trigger plate - playing your video as I stripped it down and reassembled it gave great confidence (and more importantly) a weapon that is in full working order. Many thanks again.

nice job on this 2 part series - now i feel (pretty) confident that I can clean the gun sitting in my dresser drawer for the last 40 years that my uncle gave me oh-so-many-moons ago. Big thanks!

Wow thank you so much, just bought my first 1851 Navy 44 cal. and cant wait to get out on the range! Until I found your videos I had no idea what I was doing but now thanks to you Ill be able to safely load, shoot and clean my new Pietta and have a great time because im prepared lol. Thanks again!!!!!

I wish Mr. B. was around in 1976 when I bought my brass framed .44 cal. 1851 Colt "Navy". I was inspired by the movie "The Outlaw Josie Wales" to pick up a BP Colt reproduction. I ordered the pistol from Dixie Gun Works, if I can remember. I was cheap. When it arrived I was brokenhearted to see how cheaply it was built. Reading the proof marks now, I see it was made by Gordone & Brescia in 1976. It was like a kit gun. I had to disassemble and polish the entire works. It was great lesson in gunsmithing . It still shoots after 40 years of light, but constant usage. The barrel is so crudely finished it's amazing it shoots straight. Profession gunsmiths have told me it wasn't worth the cost of any barrel work. Love your work. (I clean mine with hot soapy water. Then a good oiling.)

Hello . Mike😀 I must say this video really help me out. I can do this blind folded.thank you so much for what you do. Bless you all 🇺🇸

WOW, Mike you're awesome. Watching you not only on this video but others, have brought me to a new adventure.

Thanks very much for these cleaning videos! I just bought two model 1851's and haven't even taken them out of the factory packaging yet until I purchase all of the cleaning stuff, etc. This video gives me a lot of information to go on.....Thanks again!

Thanks Mike, I'll give it a try and keep you informed of the progress. Thanks for the great videos. All the best, Dave.

Mike, thanks a lot for this. You helped me take apart my Navy Pocket revolver and more importantly, get it back together! To the range!

Ok thanks. I enjoy the videos very much and also your work in guns of the old west, keep up the good work.

I have seen probably ten different videos on how to put mine back together and I haven't been able to do it until now. Thank you so much!

Those were great videos. I now have a much better understanding of cleaning cap and ball. Thanks very much.

Thank you for this video, it will help a lot. I just bought a Pietta Dragoon 3rd Edition and now I know how to clean it. Thank you.

thank you so much for taking the time to make this video.. you are the greatest

I feel your pain. Those Italians torque screws down like no tomorrow. Try this: mount the frame in a padded vice and be sure the driver fits the screw slot perfectly. With the driver in the slot, rap the driver handle smartly with a mallet. That may loosen the hold of the threads a little. Then fit vice grip pliers to the handle of the screw driver. Use your palm on the end of the driver to apply pressure to keep the driver firmly buried in the screw slot, and use the vice grips to turn driver

I was at the pistol range the other day shooting my dragoon,when I noticed it wouldn't go to half cock. I figured a cap fragment jamming up the works. so I watch your video / I retrieved the cap fragment and proceeded with reassembly. the only trouble I had was getting the hand and hammer assembly back in. after some time and fussing with it. it just suddenly went in and the rest of the assembly went without a hitch. now it works fine.couldn't have done without your video. thanks so much.

as always, perfect story

Thank you for the video. I successfully took mine apart and back together. Thank you.

Mike, thank you for the explanation, it now makes sense to me.

Just Bought a used 1860 CVA colt with problems, after watching your videos I was able to determine what was wrong ( trigger spring, hand spring ) and am able to repair it. Thank for the great information

Thank you very well !! Top video !! All the Best for you from Austria in Europe !! Good shot every Time !

Thanks for this video, it really saved my bacon!! I guess I should have watched this first, BEFORE just taking all the screws out lol. This video made it so easy to put back together in 10 minutes, where I screwed around for 3 hours trying to get it fixed......

Wish I'd seen this video last night as I was taking mine down, only thing I didn't dare to take apart (first time gun owner) was the trigger assembly... now I know what to expect! Great work!

excellent video. very informative. thank you

Thanks mike. This really helped when I forgot a step.

Great, helpful video !

Very helpful. I bought an 1860's era colt, that needs some repairing. I will tinker with it myself now that i have this guide. Update. I found The trigger spring was broken. Received a new one today and now it is working well, and the timing is good. Kinda fat-fingered a couple of places in the reassembly, and the pistol would go off camera at important places. Still gave me the confidence to dig into the repair. Lots of fun!

Thank you, very helpful

Thanks Mike,

Thanks for the vids. My 51 navy is in pieces right now as I decide how much to modify it (if at all). I'm sure your instructions will help.

Awesome vid Mike thanks more than you know!

The part that comes up through the frame and engages the cuts in the cylinder to lock the cylinder in place is the bolt.

I couldn't find out what size screwdriver I need for my pietta's (1860 and 36cal navy). I esp needed the size for the mainspring screw. Thanks for covering that!

This is going to be very helpful,since I broke the hand,on my 1851,this past weekend. I've already taken it down,completely,& I'm waiting for a delivery from Dixie Gun Works........ Thanks!!!

Hi Mike. I saved the back strap but ordered a new one so I can re shape it like you did. I re tapped the screw hole so should be up and running again as soon as the new screws get here. Thanks for your help. Dave.

Good video.

thanks mike

Mike - I know you did these two vids in 2012 but I'm new to cap and ball revolvers having just bought a Pietta made 1861 Navy. I have watched several vids on this topic but wanted to tell you that yours is by far the easiest to follow. Thanks for what you do - I'll continue to watch your very good videos. By the way, I'm from your area - currently live near Gettysburg.

It's just like Pokemon, gotta catch em all.

Thanks for this great video I know feel comfortable taking it apart just wish the screws weren't so cheaply made

I had a cap drop in my 1860 (fortunately on the last shot), seized up the action on my gun, that was an experience...

Yeah, Uberti really torques those screws down. You need a perfect fit with the screwdriver, and lots of force the first time you take them off. I use Brownell's Magnatip drivers, but visit their website. They probably have a screwdriver set for Colt SAAs, get that.

I've got a bunch of them. They're fine

you are a lifesaver, thanks :)

Really helpful video I got stuck with the trigger reset spring and bolt

thanks for the reply Mike, I do own a single action bronells screw driver set, but the screws are tight, and i fear i might buger them up. I did get the gun apart without hurting the screws. the tricky part will be getting it back together. all i found was nasty think black looking oil.

Give him his dues . Your still the best . Thanks

I'm not comfortable giving you an answer without seeing what you are seeing. I have three 1851 Navy conversions and none of them has the blueing rubbed off the cylinder face. But mine are all custom builds by Kenny Howell. I can't speak for Uberti production.If the cylinder binds enough against the barrel to scratch the face, you should feel a lot of drag when you cock the gun. If that is the case your wedge may be in too far.

It is to mount a shoulder stock. The military models have them.

If you have time please do a disassembly video for a walker. Thank you!

One suggestion. There is always the possibility of moisture casing the nipples to seize up. Simply just screw them in enough so that the cylinder will revolve, and no more. They will not be in very tight. Before shooting, take them out, put a bit of lube on the threads, and tighten properly. After shooting, get them out as soon as you can.

Hi mike. I can't get the left screw out at all. The right one shifted so I think I'll have to drill it out and replace the backstrap. I can not believe how hard that screw is in there!!

you can still get cap and ball and muzzle loading rifles on a FAC in the UK. Look up a store or club in your area.

It catches the spring lip on the wedge. It is just to keep the wedge from dropping out and getting lost. There is no reason to remove that screw.

lol Everything I look concerning black powder you have a vid on it. I guess I should sub. Oh,wait,I already did.

Hi Mike! Great video! I had a hand spring break in my 1851.....Ordered a parts replacement kit for it from Cabelas, found your video and proceeded to break the gun down to replace the spring....Everything seemed to go fine until i had the whole gun back together then for some reason I can't get the hammer or cylinder to move....I did a function check before putting it back together but still had the problem....if you have any advice it would be much appreciated thank you in advance...

Mike, Thank you for this great video. I just bought a new 1851 Uberti Navy. I took it apart to do the initial cleaning, but I couldn't take the screws out of the base or trigger guard. Either the screws were in extra tight, or I have lousy tools. Probably the latter. Any suggestions on a better set of screw drivers? Thanks. Can't wait to get to the range.

i took mine apart because the cylinder quit locking at full cock so i tore it down and found the bolt and trigger spring was broken thanks for the videos they helped me out greatly

Every three or four times will be fine for your Remington.

11:30 My "front screw" is pretty stripped out on my pietta .44 Navy. Anywhere I could get a replacement?

I just got a pietta 1858 remington blued model, would you suggest that the action only be taken apart for cleaning every 3 to 4 times of shooting as well, or should it be done every time? I am using 777 powder.

I have an older Lyman 1860 that shoots really well. Do you know of any other guns that their parts will interchange with this Lyman? Always great videos and very informative.

Is there a square back trigger guard that will fit a current vintage Pietta .36 cal Navy revolver?

ok i fixed it via your instructions, seems smooth now. only the cylinder now has lines scratched in it where it touches the barrel. the metal itstelf ins't really scracthed, but the blueing has rubbed off... this normal?

Hi Mike, I am new to guns but have found a passion for them I never knew I had. I thoroughly enjoy your videos, in fact I have subscribed to your channel. in this particular video, around 4:30 you described removing the screw to the bolt spring? I thought revolvers did not have bolts? My apologies if I misinterpreted what you said.

is there a good substitute for that final spray?

Mike, my family bought me a steel frame 1851 Navy in .36 as a retirement gift (23 years Navy), and I thoroughly enjoy it. I've even introduced my daughter to BP shooting, and she likes it as much as me (after first shot, said "That's cool."). I want to pick up the specialized screwdrivers that you use on the Navy (the brown handle ones). Might you let me know the exact sizes? Thanks so much.

Thanks for taking the time to do these vids they are really helpful. Quick question about the wedge - how much force do you use to put it in place. On my pietta I noticed my point of aim changes depending on how hard I knock the wedge in. Is that normal on these guns?

Another fantastic video. Thanks for posting these. Two questions... what is the screw that resides above the wedge used for? I noticed you left that in. Is it recommended not to remove it?

Dave, I've never heard of screws that tight. Good luck. Sorry you'll need a new back strap. That's no fun.

Thanks for the video. My gun has a very dangerous hair trigger. Would replacing the trigger take care of it, or do I need a trigger/hammer combo?

Hi Mike, what a fabulous video. Full of wisdom & know how. I’ve ordered a Colt Navy 1861 revolver. I have also order the 3 bits from Brownell’s you suggested and an appropriate handle. I got the jags coming from Tipton. I was curious where you found your hammer or if you have a make & model perhaps? I did find a nice Halder hammer site. I just don’t want to overdo it. I’d be happy with a nylon & brass since it’s a soft metal. I need to check my stuff as I think I might have the Ballistol sprayer. I would have never thought about that though I used to clean my reproduction 1847 Springfield rifle with the hottest water I could get & Dawn detergent. Came amazingly clean. Look forward to your response. Take care & thank you.

Hey Mike; Enjoy your vidioes. Have you got one on the timing of replacing the action on this pistol i.e. hand etc?

Was wondering why rod was not greased before installing cylinder ?

Hi Mike, I have just bought a Pietta 1851 in .44 calibre. I can not get the screws out of the top of the back strap where they hold it to the frame. I used the proper screwdriver and the heads are so soft on the screws, I'm scared they will turn off. Any suggestions on how to get them out? I live in the UK and BP specialists are few and far between. Many thanks, Dave.

love you videos!. I've only been shooting for just under three years now ( I'm 49 years old), but came to love it accidentally after my wife and I took a handgun license course together and went shooting to qualify. the rest is history as I have become addicted to not only guns, but the history of the guns. I now have about 15 all together. I recently bought a Uberti 1847 Walker and had the chance finally today to find an outdoor range and shoot it! I only had about three successful shots. I think a cap dropped into the action and was preventing firing of the other chambers perhaps. ??? My main question is this. When I put my barrel on, If I tap the wedge too much, then the cylinder cannot rotate when cocked. I have to slightly tap on the wedge too loosen it a little bit before it can turn. And, it seems like the drag is not quite even all the way around the cylinder as it rotates (if that makes any sense). Again, love your videos! I've learned a lot and now am about to clean this thing for the first time following your example. Any help/advice is appreciated!

Is it normal for the wedge to be extremely tight on a new gun? Seemed like i really had to whack it to get it out, also had to give it a good whack to get it to seat again upon reassembly. I dont know if im doing anything wrong but just seemed like yours fell apart and fell back together when i did mine i used a small hammer and a plastic dowel and had to hit it harder than i really wanted to before the spring caught on the wedge.

What is your opinion on Uberti?

I have watched many of your vids over the years and find them helpful. Could you recommend how to go about locating a competent gunsmith to check my Snider III carbine and my Martini Henrys to see if they're shootable?

I just got the cimarron man with no name revolver 1851 conversion. i took it apart to clean off the factory oil, and i wanted to check the action out, so i cocked the hammer all the way back while the barrel and cylinder was off it. the hammer got stuck! i will not go forward! is this normal???

Do you recommend breaking down the film trigger assembly every time you shoot or is it something that is fine to do every couple shooting sessions.

Thanks for video. Please, could you tell me the metrics of the screws that you remove in 1:20 min?

I have a Pietta Army Colt. It has the three screws on the side of the case-hardened body, as well as a much larger fourth screw, with heads on either side. Yours doesn't have it, neither does my civilian Navy .44 model. What's this screw?

Is the ballistol also a lube? Would it be unfair to put micro drops of gun oil at various friction points or leave it dry?

I was wondering what tools and method you use to get a nipple that's rounded off out of the cylinder. I'm having trouble finding anything such as a small enough needle nose vice grip or anything else that will get in that tight spot to get it out. Thank You

Where do you get your screwdrivers that don't bugger up your screws???

Is the firearm rush of 2013 just draining Ballistol supplies, or is it just not available in CA? BTW After watching your vids, I just bought a Navy Colt (Pietta) in June.

So it is ok to just take the grip of and spray the whole assemble but after the 3 or 4 time shooting you should disassemble the whole thing for cleaning ?

Is it necessary to tear down the gun to the extent that you are doing after a shooting session or can I just do a basic cylinder/barrel/exterior and leave the trigger assembly etc for maybe 3 or 4 times a year. Not sure I feel comfortable tearing it down to the depth that you are doing right now. Thanks for the video. Very informative.

My uberti 1860 army, 4 weeks old, cap sucked down in the action, broke the bolt. Where can I find parts to repair the pistol?

Hello Mike. I just bought a Pietta '51 Navy. Haven't shot it yet but what spare parts would you recommend to keep on hand. Being in Canada it can get expensive to order but it would be nice to have the most esential parts as it takes time to arrive from the States. Thanks and your videos are very interesting and helpful

I have the very same gun & I can't rotate the cylinder when the hammer is in the half cocked position. Any suggestions??

Great set of videos but I can't get past step 1. The wedge seems like it's welded in place and does not move.