and with a 3:1 ratio he/you won't burn up the alternator but keep it good and cool as designed.

Excellent commentary here. Thanks marzsit! You're right, I used the wrong spider and they were not perfectly aligned due to it being a kit I purchased that wasn't the quality I hoped for. For most people with limited fabrication skills like myself I came to the conclusion that a simple belt drive is more practical/reliable. My primary issue wasn't the pipe length but a slight 'tilt' of the coupling on the threaded shaft. That and a spider that wasn't rated for this application so wouldn't have worked even with perfect alignment for long.

I did that to an old snap on ac system and used it flawlessly for 7 years until it was stolen by my tech. .

I have a video on my KZfaq channel of me doing this exact thing making an air compressor out of a six horse engine

If you don't mind me asking what size battery bank? What size gas engine do you have? Full consumption per hr & day? Thanks

When I was a kid down here in the south there were many in the swamps or up in the woods that used hybrid systems - some had what was termed the Mining Light System - it was made up of a single 2 volt lead acid or two Edison cells - the old 2 volt cells were 2 volts each fully charged - the acid was at a gravity of 1.200 when fully charged so peak voltage in summer was 2 volts - the plates in the jar were 3 one inch thick plates covered with acid - the thick plates and low gravity acid gave them a 70-80 yr service life - some were already used 50 yrs - most of those engines generators ran on crude oil to charge the battery - some had 6 or 8 volt systems with the same type of Exide batterys but more cells or larger cells - and a V Belt drive with B belts - higher up the chain were those with 32 volt or 64 volt systems - they also used low gravity cells - if they used lead acid battery's they were low gravity - they don't sulfate like battery's with 1.273 acid or 1.285 battery's do - most didn't use the Delco generators - most had crude oil engines they just taped the wells in the swamps and Marsh back then the oil companies didn't care - most had hit and miss engines set up to run on crude instead of gasoline or kerosene - but they were all belt drive - even today solar panels put out very little power down here with a clear sun day they put out 15% of there rated out put - so there not used much

@@stevensaxon8888 those are good questions so I'll give you some answers - fuel consumption goes by horse out put - with a 12 volt system it takes 1 horsepower to generate 380 watts of power - for every 2400 watt hours you generate you will consume roughly one gallon of gasoline it might be slightly lower or higher - as for battery size - chargers are generally set up at 5 % of the battery capacity - for every 100 amps of battery capacity you want 5 amps of charging capability - a car altenators will handle up to 600 amps of battery capacity - car altenators are rated in KVA ( Kilo Volt Amps) - that is how much power they will generate for (one minute) - if it says it's a 100 amp altenator that doesn't mean you can draw a continues 100 amps - if you do there is a chance you will burn out the Diodes - most car altenators can only put out 30-40 amps continues at 2500 RPMs & higher - Truck altenators can put out 60-80 amps at 1500-2500 RPM - if you have a 30 amp altenator the maxmine battery size would be 600 amps total - you can put the altenator on a much larger bank of battery - technically a 100 amp battery will charge at point 8 amps or 800 milliamp's per 100amps of capacity from 0° - 100°F just fine - but that would be a very slow charge rate - if your serious about these things you can look at West Marines site on engine altenators and battery charging or Pacific yacht they they can answer more questions - Sail boat house battery's are set up different from homes - there limited to how much fuel they have on board and the realitively small battery bank - the faster you charge a battery the shorter the life span will be - the slower you charge a battery the longer it will last - also the (DOD) depth of discharge matters also - look at those sights on u tube and u will gain more knoledge - also there books written for sail boats on DC charging &:discharging ECT - if you have questions just ask me ( I prefer to just use a standard AC generator with switcher or traditional chargers )

@@stevensaxon8888 my phone is not showing the video clip I'm only seeing a picture with the engine and altenator - it looks like 6 HP engine

@@able880 thanks for the reply

It is a different type of coupling. There are couplings rated for reciprocating duty but they are a bit expensive. A Lovejoy catalog shows exactly what is available, but the common machinery style jaw couplings are not rated for a use like this.

Ahh, ok.

What would you suggest? I’m looking at doing a similar project.

I was waiting too, lol. I can't believe I sat for 15 minutes and didn't even see it run

Interesting idea.

Are you really comparing automobiles with "bigger" engines to small engines? LOL

Belts are a lot less efficient than an elastic coupling.

Belts are used for engine implements mounted non-coaxially with the crankshaft. It also simplifies servicing those parts, as the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, and AC compressor frequently do not outlast the engine itself. I have seen a car with a camshaft-driven water pump, and some heavy truck engines also drive implements from the camshaft (notably the Detroit Diesel 71 and 92 series engines) but the water pump does not make large torque demands on the timing belt in the car, and in the case of the heavy truck engines the camshafts are driven from a gear train, not a timing belt.

One more observation: Belt drives make it possible to vary the speed ratio of the implements relative to the crankshaft. Your car normally idles around 700-1500 RPM, and that might not be enough speed on the input shaft of an alternator to generate the necessary voltage, requiring larger permanent magnets and armature coils. If the rotational speed can be increased, the size and weight of the component can be decreased. Alternately, if you have a piece of machinery where high torque is needed, beyond what a direct-driving motor can supply, a belt drive can be used to greatly increase torque on the driven shaft while reducing rotational speed.

its a friggin love joy coupling move on lol guy yacks

The light in your dash is normally the current limiter and, yes, the alternator will happily pass around 5A through the field windings if connected directly to 12V which will burn them out if the alternator windings if it is not spinning and pushing air through it. The diode trio only powers the circuit once the alternator is generating - the initial field current comes from the battery through the alternator light in your dash. The alternator only limits charge current by applying full output voltage to the field windings and the laws of physics take over as it is no longer regulating - it has absolutely nothing to do with 'rated current'. There's some good resources and whitepapers on alternator function that may help you understand more about how they work complete with schematics that show what I describe in the video.

I have done significant research over the last couple of decades and have good knowledge of lubricating oils. Synth oils aren't magic and are pretty much the same as other oils. Synthetic oil of the type available in API grades today really only have one benefit for this type of engine - they degrade slower and therefore keep their viscosity longer and leave fewer deposits due to less coking. Cylinder head temps will not be affected if you compare oils of viscosities that are similar at similar operating temps (high in an air cooled engine) and lubrication differences can be attributed to additive packages rather than synth vs conventional oil. Flat tappet engines tend to like more ZDDP or similar additives as direct metal to metal contact is inevitable. A common practice is to add a little racing oil to the crankcase on each change to up the zinc level in these engines.

After this spider broke apart I looked up the technical data on LoveJoy's website and found that this type of jaw coupling is not intended for this type of reciprocating (uneven torque) application. Perhaps the cream colored durometer material may have worked?

What is the reasoning for not allowing synthetic in rotary engines? 'synthetic' is just a special version of regular oil that is in no way inferior to ordinary oils. Unless they give specific reasons I don't buy it.

I agree with your thoughts on oil - there's a lot of misinformation on the internet that has gone viral over the years regarding what oil to use, synth vs standard, and oil change intervals. Engine failure due to improper oil maintenance is a large contributor to failures in modern engines and it's sad given how unnecessary it is.

***** lol yeah I ain't gonna lie back in my younger days I didn't care how important it was and I can think back and go over at least 5 cars that I mistreated that if I hadn't would probably still be running today. lol However unlike most it is really only a handful of people who really learn from their mistakes. Don't get me wrong I have also seen older people not give a crap as well lol.

evilcowboy I have enjoyed your KZfaq videos.. +knurlgnar24 thanks for posting it. You Take me back to my days When I rescued Engines From a scrap yard and I rebuilt them and got them all running again. till My Father wanted his Garage Back.. he gave Away all my engines 250 of them plus Generators to a man I didn't know. some were Six cylinders.. I was Not a happy Camper! but that was then. I went on to become an Aircraft Maintenence Specialist A/R Man I Rigged Flight Controls of Jets Like the B-52's C5A C141 C130 ect... changed the Landing Gears.. Doors Engines windows Weighed the Aircraft Cleaned them. diced them Checked the Oil.. service Lox ( Oxygen Liquid) Liquid Nitrogen kicked The Tires and Lit the Fires.. Thanks For Reminding me of my beginnings! Ty.. Paul

i think he is refering to the extreme vibration created by the engine

Matthew Nelson I say BS because they use this set up by Big OEM manufactures for all kinds of equipment they Have all kinds of spiders of different materials and hardness for different applications!

There's nothing to dampen the vibration and friction

I have used these jaw couplers for decades in outdoor applications with no failure ever. I believe there is too much thought taken from text and not from field experience. These couplers I used were direct connected to small gasoline engines driving pumps. The alignment is critical between the engine and device driven.

Miguel S Yep!

0w40 oils, including synthetic, have viscosity improvers and the result is shorter oil service life which is similar to non synthetic 10w40. There is no purpose for 0w40 that I am aware of. 0w30, if synthetic, is good all around except for worn or older engines with higher clearances where it may burn some of that thin oil when cold and clearances are larger. 5w30 and 10w30 are absolutely good for winter use, and tests often show them to have lower gel points than 0w oils if you get good quality stuff. There really isn't an advantage in any way to 0w oils except for a slight fuel economy benefit. I'll spend the extra $100 over my entire lifetime in fuel and stick with the 5w which has no downsides aside from that $100. I don't use 10w due to quite a bit higher fuel consumption, so it's a compromise.

I don't recall exactly, but I do recall that the quality was not acceptable so I wouldn't recommend that vendor.

If you have a dead battery then you still have a battery connected to the alternator. Disconnecting the battery entirely while the alternator is generating power results in a 'load dump' scenario (a google search will yield multiple hits) which can result in damage to your vehicle's electrical system.

I googled load dump. Voltage spikes on dc elec systems are no good, caused by applied loads. I understand what you meant.

The voltage regulator on this alternator is probably a little too high for many applications. That is just what it is set to as purchased. For lead calcium batteries it is probably OK but at room temperature I would rather see upper 14's, and around 14 with a fully warm alternator.

Zed Man try love coupling...

Voltage regulation is the difficult part. Inverter generators do this same conversion though they start with a higher DC voltage as they are not limited to car alternator voltages.

I did not have high expectations of it and it handily met those expectations. It isn't anything special but it works and has a low price point. I did not compare it to a calibrated tach to verify accuracy. While I have no complaints I would look for something higher quality for a serious permanent install.

Exactly what I needed to know. Adding a better one to my yamaha inverter genny. I'll prolly just get their name brand tach

This rig would only jump start a car if the car battery was not completely bad. 100A isn't enough to reliably start a car unless the battery is able to help with some additional current.

Why not? The fuse will blow when the current is above the maximum level--- it doesn't matter whether that is positive or negative. The current running through the fuse heats it and melts the fuse material and it shuts off.

Travis Piper It's more of internal temperature. They do run hotter. I've seen air cooled engines with darker cylinder walls as if they were burnt color than those water cooled engines.

The battery, though it usually will self-energize on its own from residual magnetism in the rotor too.

ok it is 10IS ALT NICE JOB KLR24

73 SUPERGLIDE The alternator shown here is a 10si, but I found that 10si alternators do not work well for this purpose. I later used a 27si and it was far superior.

no oil soon