Thank you so much for your kind comment! I really appreciate it! And I'm glad you found it useful, that's all I wish for when I make videos ,it makes my day!!

I'm glad you liked the video,I hope it turns out to be useful!!

No problem! I hope you enjoy making them!

Thank you for your kind comment,I hope it's useful!

I'm glad you like this!! I hope he'll love them!

Thank you so much!! I'm glad you made stands and that this was of use,it makes me happy! ^_^

Whats the update? :D

How did it went?

@@RinChanNya Oops sorry bout that. I ended up not doing it because I didn’t have enough for resin which is very expensive.

Thank you! Ah I see.... perhaps let it cure a little longer? No I don't get fingerprints on the resin,at half the time (mine cures fully in 24hrs, I give it at least 12 hrs) it's already very strong and well formed,it will retain its shape but isn't stone hard yet. If it's hard enough to pull out a mould easily,it shouldn't get fingerprints,at least it doesn't in my case... If it doesn't work out, of course,you can let it cure completely and then just sand it down!

Thank you so much!! Hope you liked watching the video!

Thank you for the comment! I'm glad you liked it!

Thank you so much ;;-;; I'm glad you found it helpful!

I'm honoured! Unfortunately I won't anytime soon, perhaps some day.

@@myriad_interests nice you make ultimate Madoka stand

I got it from a hardware store,though they're also available online (search for Silicone Sealant) Unfortunately,liquid silicone can't be used in this method,it will just flow away,though there are other methods where ut would work. If you can't get silicone sealant,you can use hot glue gun instead,it should work fairly alright too!

You can use any paper to print your photos,though photo paper works best. Photo paper is already coated once,so it won't change colour at all when sealing eith varnish,but regular printer paper might permanently become slightly translucent,though not always,and it's usually not very noticeable. So as long as you apply varnish liberally especially to the edges,any paper should do. I hope this helps,if you have more questions please feel free to ask!

@@myriad_interests thank you! Might try that in the future!

@@monikawischnewski I'm sure they'll turn out great! Have fun 😊

Thank you for the comment! I hope you enjoy making yours! Unfortunately they're stuck together,the design can't be removed from the stand

I'm glad you found this video useful! Yes,the silicone I used is clear silicone sealant,used for waterproofing and available at hardware stores. And yes! Any resin should do! I've never used UV resin because that's too expensive and difficult to obtain where I live,but even that should work as well! No worries! If you can't find silicone,you can use hot glue from a hot glue gun,or even plasticine/play-dough clay,but be sure to have a larger gap between the picture and the mould in that case,to leave larger areas for sanding later. If you have any other questions feel free to ask!

@@myriad_interests Thank you so much for answering my questions haha, really appreciate your help. One last question tho, the photo paper I have is pretty filmsy and thin so I was wondering if I can use art paper that's a little thicker than the photo paper? (I'm thinking of drawing the art on those paper instead of printing them out)

You can! Just be sure to seal both sides of the paper before and after cutting the drawing out,twice,and dry completely,just to be sure,so that the resin doesn't seep in. Hope that helps!

Hii, sorry to bother you again but all the materials I ordered just arrived today and it seems the resin I ordered has a 2:1 mix ratio. Does that mean twice the amount of resin than the hardener? Like suppose 10ml resin to 5ml hardener?

Yes that's what it means! It should be written on the package though, companies usually include instructions

Yes, you can,but don't move it from its location, because the hardened glue often comes off the plastic sheet very easily. Thank you for your support!

@@myriad_interests thank you so much for your help ❤️

You most certainly can, it should work fine

@@myriad_interests thank you❤

Yes,you can,just make sure it dries thoroughly and you do at least 2 layers before pouring resin

It doesn't come off. Unfortunately,once it's put in,it gets fixed permanently. But if you wrap cling film to the lower part of the upper piece before putting it in the base piece,it should come off easily after setting. I hope this helps!

I think it should be fine! I did it this way because I didn't have a way to cut out the peg space,but if you do,it should work fine,and probably be better than this in fact!

Well...you can,but it will neither be sturdy nor neat,and will peel off in layers after a few months. So unfortunately ,I don't think plastic us a viable replacement. If you want to make it without resin,a hot glue gun both works and doesn't: you can use plastic on one side and hot glue on the other and flatten immediately with a glass or metal surface,like in my anime keychains video,but it will only work for really small stands,not more than 2-3 inches. I've been looking for ways to make clear stands without resin, but the glue gun is the only one I've found to work,and that too to a limited degree, I'm sorry I couldn't be of much help ;-;

@@myriad_interests it’s okay, thank you for responding! i asked mostly because i can’t really find resin or hot silicone where i live

Thank you for your comment!! Well...in short, it's best to get artists' varnish,and wood varnish usually won't work. Long answer: There are indeed some kinds of wood varnish that can work,but most won't. Wood varnish is more like a resin,and when it dries (most kinds anyway),they seep deep into the grain of the wood and harden and protect it. If you do it on paper,yes it will harden and protect it,but it will also seep in and make the paper translucent: exactly what we're trying to stop the resin from doing by sealing it with artists' varnish/transparent laquer first.Some kinds also have an oil component ,that seeps in and causes this even more. That being said,there are some varieties that don't do this. If you already have wood varnish,the best way to test if it will work or not is to apply a bit on a scrap piece of paper,and let it dry completely. If it dries without discolouring or making the paper translucent (compare with the surrounding paper),you can use it,if it does,it won't work. Alternatively you can just use some clear drying PVA glue instead,though I'd definitely recommend artists' varnish the most. I hope this helps!

It'll depend on the instructions on the label of the resin. The resin I used said to cure for 24 hours,so I let it set for 12 hrs,then cut it,let it set for another 12hrs, then sanded it. For the stand, similarly, I let it cure for 12 hrs, then cut and let it cure for another 12hrs, so 48hrs in total,which is twice the time specified on the bottle. This can be decreased to 36hrs be sanding after fixing it in the stand. If the resin you have says to cure for 72 hrs,you need it to cure for at least 72hrs before sanding the edges,but for removal from the ohp sheet and cutting, I'd recommend checking if it can be removed after 12hrs. If it can, remove and cut and follow the same steps,just make sure the resin has had full curing time before sanding,once that time has passed, you're good to go. I hope this helps,if you have any queries or clarifications please feel free to ask!

Hmmm, I'd definitely recommend letting the varnish dry completely before pouring the resin,since elsewise,the protective layer won't be formed,and there would be a chance of the resin leaking into the paper

I used Brusto resin here, but it hasn't been available for over a year anymore I've also tried Epoke crystal clear resin,and Oytra epoxy resin, both work well! I think any brand will do, as long as it's clear. I hope this helps!

Well...yes,but it usually comes with the resin in the same package. Epoxy resin, at least all the varieties I've seen,come in 2 bottles labelled either resin and hardener,or part a and part b,with mixing instructions provided. I apologize if it was confusing, I hope this helps!

@@myriad_interests thanks and oh, do I need filter mask and ventilation as well cuz also they weren't mentioned on this videi as well? I know some epoxy resin are harm and some aren't not?

Not in this case. Epoxy resin is harmful when sanded, especially if it's still soft, and generates particles that can go into the lungs. Since we're using it only in liquid form without sanding vigorously here, I'd say it's not necessary. But if it makes you dizzy (I've heard that it can be an allergen to specific people), it's best to wear a mask then

I honestly don't remember,I just go to a hardware shop and pick up a transparent silicone since for what I use,any brand works You can buy it at hardware stores,hobby shops,places selling paints for walls ,and online I hope this helps!

Yeah, it's epoxy resin,mixed in the correct ratio according to the instructions on the package. If you want to make keychains by this method,you definitely can! But if you don't have resin,I did a video for making anime keychains last year without resin too! Here it is: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/itmHoLqL15PZn40.html

@@myriad_interests tnx for replying idk i cant go out atm if i have a chance imma try to get epoxy

Thank you! And sorry for the late reply. I used 2 part clear Epoxy resin (I used Brusto,you can use anything you want). I used acetone free nail polish remover to clean the stands,though you can also use soap and water. I won't recommend acetone because that can cause the clear parts to become slightly opaque at times. I hope this helps!

@@myriad_interests omg thank you so so much 😭😭💕💕

It's harmful when inhaled. That can be inhalation of vapours(if heated in liquid state,which isn't usually done), or inhalation of particles generated by sanding. Sanding partly cured(still soft) epoxy is particularly harmful,but inhaling particles from sanding fully cured epoxy is also harmful, though less(it's just as harmful as inhaling other dusts once fully cured). If you sand using power tools,then using a respirator mask is essential,but since in this case we're not sanding with power tools,or sanding extensively,it shouldn't be harmful,though if you want to be extra safe,you can wear a mask while sanding the edges I hope this helps!

@@myriad_interests thank you!

It would depend on the size and shape of the cutout you're using,and I actually eyeball it,so I can't tell you actual millilitres, I'm sorry. But if you want to reduce wastage,you can try micing a total of around 10ml or 10gm(but keeping your ratio according to the manufacturer 's instructions of course,it can be 9gm if it's in 1:2 ratio or 8 or 12 if in 1:3 ratio etc),and if it's not enough,mix a bit more immediately,i.e. within half an hour at max so that the two batches mix seamlessly before the resin statts to cure

I usually buy from random hardware stores,but I've bought on amazon before,from different brands,with same results. Here's one! www.amazon.in/Dr-Fixit-501-Silicone-Sealant-Clear/dp/B07X89WDYG/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MSSSMRKQNV9KWX68JD52

@@myriad_interests thank you so much!!!

Your welcome! And also thank you for your compliment on the video! I hope you enjoy making it!

No worries! It's the same thing,by epoxy I mean resin which has two components that need to be mixed,and hardens on its own over a specific time,the other type is UV resin,which would need a uv cure machine. You can use any resin as long as it's transparent!

@@myriad_interests aaaahhh thanksss for your explanationn Hope u wont mind if Im asking question when I got stuck later hhehehe

@@ranisyafrudin5915 of course I won't mind! Feel free to ask whenever you need!

Hello,thanks for your comment, and sorry I couldn't reply sooner. I'll be glad to answer any questions or you have! If you're using a printed picture,I recommend photo paper, because it won't be ruined by sealants and varnishes. Sealing with varnish is,like I mentioned in the video,very important,to prevent the resin from seeping into the paper and ruining it. If you print it on uncoated paper,like copy paper or art paper,on applying liquid varnish,there is a high chance of the picture being ruined. This is because most coloured printouts aren't waterproof,at least from my experience. If you want to though,you can test on a printout whether it's waterproof or not. On the other hand,photo paper is coated with a layer, which reacts with the ink while it's still wet, and fixes it, so the print becomes waterproof. This is actually one of the reasons why photos are printed on coated paper too. In short,for printed pictures, I'd highly recommend photo paper. However,if you intend to draw the picture,you may well use art paper,as long as it's a little thick,it should be fine. Of course you'll have to seal it with varnish too. I hope this answers your query,if you have more questions feel free to ask!

@@myriad_interests Thank you so much for your time. It helps! I'll take photo paper then!

Thank you for your comment,I really appreciate it!! By mixed resin I mean it's been mixed in the ratio specified on the bottle,in my case,3 parts liquid A + 2 parts liquid B by volume. This holds only for 2 part epoxy resin of course,if you use UV resin it won't apply but then UV resin is really expensive,so I personally wouldn't prefer to use such a large amount So it's basically just resin,not mixed with anything else, ready to harden. I hope this helps!

Thank u for answer 😊 so its been already mixed in the bottle. Hopefully its something like that in my country haha

Oh no, I'm sorry if I caused confusion... it's not already mixed in the bottle,there are instructions on the bottle,and I have already mixed it according to those instructions before pouring. I hope this clears up any confusion!

Hello, I am from India. Unfortunately I can't do commissions right now, I'm sorry for the disappointment,but I'm really busy these days.

I did not use any premade moulds for this,I showed how to make the mould for the cutout at 2:15,and the mould for the base at 4:10,hope this helps! If you have any doubts please don't hesitate to ask!

Ah I'm honoured you think so ;-; thank you for the nice comment,I really appreciate it!!! Certainly! I used Brusto's clear 2 part epoxy resin,but any clear resin should do!

@@myriad_interests wow you reply so fast, it surprised me tbh. Anyways thank you for sharing your information, i hope you'll success in your career/business

@@argonite9651 Haha 😅 I'm on hiatus from the other sites because of exams,so I replied as soon as I saw it, besides I hardly get any comments on KZfaq so I get enthusiastic to reply right away when I do😅😅 Thank you so much! You too!!

You basically need a plastic sheet to which the resin won't stick, and I've found ohp sheets work best among what I have. If you can find a plastic sheet ripped from any packaging, that should do too! I found that cling-film doesn't work too well. But the plastic in channel files or clear files should. I'm sorry I wasn't able to help too much, if I wasn't too busy I'd try and let you know,but I'm busy for a couple of days more,if you want me to try out alternatives and tell you after the 2nd,I can

@@myriad_interests no its fine! thank you for answering so quickly

An X-acto knife/ Detail knife. I hope this helps!

The paper I printed on? It's s coated photo paper,but you can use any thick paper as long as you seal it properly with varnish.

I'm honoured that you want to commission me,I would definitely accept if I could. Unfortunately I can't,though. I have no means of accepting money because my bank isn't allowing international transactions, and I have no means of sending the stand either,since international post isn't accessible right now,and won't be till March. I'm so sorry, there's nothing I can do, even though I'd willingly make it if you wanted. I'm so sorry ;-; You can to use this tutorial to make the stand if you like,though. If there's anything else I can help with,any doubts about the process or editing the photo to use,feel free to dm me on twitter at @flame_dryad I apologize again,I don't have anything I can do ;-;

@@myriad_interests aww it’s okay, i understand! thank you tho :)

OOH ANOTHER DANGANRONPA FAN! It's funny that we're both here for the exact same reason haha

I used Liquittex matte varnish,2-3 layers, with a brush, and transparent spray paint. You can use any texture of varnish though, I used matte because I had it,but gloss or satin works fine too. If you can't find Liquittex, I have used Brusto's varnish,it works just as well,and I've heard DuraClear is good too. I hope this helps!

You can get it easily at hardware stores,ask for silicone sealant. Buying online is an option too, it comes in long tubes. You don't have to if you don't use it too much,but getting a silicone gun/plunger along with it will help push it out. If you can't get silicone,in this case,you can use hot glue gun if you want instead,while silicone is definitely the better option,hot glue should work as well. I hope this helps!

I used 100% silicone used for waterproofing,which comes in a cream like consistency, in long tubes and a nozzle. It doesn't dry instantly,it takes about 2-3hrs,but it's definitely not liquid If it's still liquid..did you perhaps use liquid silicone rubber? Was it two part,with a base and hardener? If that's the case,it takes much longer to dry,though it usually says the curing time and mixing ratio on the bottle. I've never used it myself,but I've heard if it's not mixed properly,it might not harden...

@@myriad_interests Thank you for your response! I definitely used the wrong one. I used silicon used for Molds. I think that's why it took so long. It didn't come with a hardener

@@Braginski38 I see, that might be the reason..if it doesn't work out,you can also try using a hot glue gun if you can't get get the tube silicone

Yes, it's silicone glue, usually called "silicone sealant" in hardware stores, it's usually used for waterproofing

Thank you so much! Oh don't worry, it's not a dumb theory, I've actually considered it at some point. As far as what I tried goes: it's possible,but only for smaller stands,much,much smaller. I used hot glue to make the keychains in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/itmHoLqL15PZn40.html If you try to make anything bigger in size, you'll have to melt the glue sticks in a pot over fire,a glue gun will be useless, because by the time you reach one edge,the place you started at will already be hardened,and you won't be able to flatten it anymore. I would like to try using a pan or something to melt a larger amount of glue someday,but it can be a health hazard so....yeah. I wouldn't recommend it. I hope this helps!

@@myriad_interests Thank you it was very helpful 😭💕

@@wot4192 no problem, you're welcome to it😊😊😊

I'm honoured...I didn't learn it from anywhere specifically,I had seen resin crafts on KZfaq for a while, and I wanted to try using that medium, and once I got my hands on resin,I did everything by trial and error. I mostly make tutorials of things I can't find already existing videos of, and I really like to make custom merch for myself,so I did a few experimental attempts till I got workable processes.

@@myriad_interests That's awesome! I'm scared of buying the wrong materials for the project. I went to a craft shop 2 days ago stood infront of the resin section, fricked out over the price and went back home with only an x-acto!

@@lovehinatalove1004 I can relate,resin is really expensive. I would love to make larger resin projects,but then I think about the costs and...nope. I buy a single pack and use it for a year,which is why I make only small things ,like chibi figurines. I do enjoy small things though,so I guess that's good!

@@myriad_interests I'll start with small things too and small is always cute anyway!

As far as I remember,I used Dowsil brand clear waterproofing silicone, but I've used many brands over the years and they all work exactly the same, so I'd say just get whatever brand is available where you live,it should work fine! I prefer transparent because it's easier to see theough,but black/white should work as well. Look for "silicone sealant" or "waterproofing silicone". I hope this helps!

Thank you for considering it! Unfortunately,no. I don't take orders, and time at all, and probably wouldn't be able to. I'm sorry,I hope you will understand...however if you decide to make this, you can ask me anytime from querries or help, including photo editing and anything that might've been confusing in the video!

You most certainly can! As long as it's smooth, anything should work, and a rigid plastic sheet willwork perfectly fine.

Yes and no..Acrylic matte can be Acrylic matte medium or Acrylic matte varnish/sealant,though the first will probably work as well,matte varnish would refer to Acrylic matte varnish. I used Liquittex Matte Varnish,which is an acrylic matte varnish. But you can use any liquid sealant for this purpose,since the resin will cover it anyway,it won't matter if it's matte or gloss. If the bottle says "varnish" or "sealant" anywhere,you should be good to go. I hope this helps!

@@myriad_interests Thank you for the information. I'm planning to make one but I'm using pre cut acrylic glass. I just need to get the right varnish to protect the photo from getting wet when I use clear pvc cement to glue the acrylic glasses together that will hold the photo. I'm planning to buy tomorrow. Any suggestion which one should I buy to stick the acrylic together aside from clear pvc cement? I just can't think of any. Ps. Sorry I'm bad at english

I think you can use clear resin instead of pvc cement glue. UV resin would be easier to use because it cures faster,but you'd need an uv machine for that,so 2 part epoxy should do to. If you sand the surface of the acrylic glass and then pour resin,it should stick very well when hardened and will leave a good finish,you can see a demonstration of how the resin works on sanded acrylic in this video by Nelco Neco,at around 3:25 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/btmaitZkvpawp2g.html I hope this helps, also don't worry about it, your English is very good!

I don't sell them anywhere,but if you're looking to sell yours ,you can try Etsy and other sites that allow opening of shops to small buisnesses, I haven't seen many artists use ebay. You can also sell them locally if you can find interested buyers

@@myriad_interests thanks a lot 😍 and good luck with ur crafts 🙏

In all honesty, I don't remember since it's been years,but I would say around 50-60gms(including both,i.e. mixed weight), because I never mix more than that at once,and as far as I remember,I didn't have to mix more than once. I'm so sorry I don't have the exact answer,but I hope this helps

@@myriad_interests Thank you so much! That really helps me :)

You can, though there's a chance of it coming off the ohp sheet. I tried with hot glue,it worked sometimes, sometimes it did not,but I think it is more likely to work if,after applying the hot glue,you avoid moving the sheet, because if the sheet twists air gets between the glue and the plastic,and it peels off. I hope this helps! Also thank you so much!

thankyou so much!!!

Yes it is! Dominique de Sade! And the other one (in red) Alice from Pandora Hearts!

@@myriad_interests OMG I LOVE THOSE MANGAS! They are so good!

@@fabulousjekster28 I do too! Pandora Hearts is my favourite manga, I've made custom figures of Alice,Alyss snd Lacie too!

@@myriad_interests the story is so beautiful! I cried so many times reading the end

@@fabulousjekster28 yes me too ;-; I've reread it so many times yet it never stops hurting. It's so painful but so beautiful ;-;

Hello! I am a anime convention artist.I sell Acrylic standees for $15-25 dollars. It depends on art work and cost of materials

@@SweetBreatz thank you for answering 💜

I have no idea how much you can sell it for,though I've seen acrylic stands anywhere from 8$ to 60$ on ebay,but then SweetBreatz has already answered that better than I could! Yes that's silicone,mould making silicone should work,as long as it's thick enough to be piped. In fact hot glue would too. I used the 100% silicone available at hardware stores used for waterproofing of windows.

The resin is epoxy In essence acrylic is basically a type of plastic,and clear acrylic anime stands are basically die cast/laser cut transparent plastic sheets in batches,made using machinery for the most part. I tried to make a stand that looks like acrylic anime stands,using epoxy resin, for home merchandise making,when machinery for die casting or cutting of thick hard plastics is not available. Since on curing epoxy resin gives a clear finish similar to acrylic,and the process can be fully handmade,I used it. I hope this helps!

OHP sheets are thin,smooth, transparent sheets of plastic, they're easily available at stationery shops,and are also what's on the cheaper file covers. If you can't find one,any plastic sheet ripped off of packaging should do too,as long as it is completely smooth. I think in some places OHP sheets are also called thin acrylic sheets. I hope this helps!

Hello, don't worry about it! I'll explain the best I can. Resin,as I'm using here,is a material that is liquid at first,but hardens over time.Most popular resin is clear,and remains so even after hardening(though you can add resin pigment or acrylic paint as colour if you want to make it opaque) Two common varieties are 2 part epoxy resin,and UV resin. Of these,UV resin is more expensive, and usually hardens faster. It comes as a liquid in dark bottles,and on exposure to ultraviolet light,it hardens.(sunlight works slower, or UV light works faster). I have never used UV resin, because it's difficult to obtain where I live and at least 4 times the price of the other kind of resin of the same amount. The other is epoxy resin,which I used here. You can get it at most craft shops, select hardware shops,and very easily online(and is much cheaper). It comes as two different liquids,in bottles as a part of a set,with mixing instructions by weight or by volume,and it hardens on its own in 24-48hrs(depending on the brand, it's mentioned on the label). It's recommended to use a digital scale to mix by weight,but I don't have one,so I mix by volume,in this case,3 parts liquid A with 2 parts liquid B,measured using spoons. "Resin(mixed)" means I have already mixed the liquids in the correct ratio according to the instructions on the label, and am pouring the mixture. I hope this answers your question! If you have any doubts about this feel free to ask!

@@myriad_interests thank you so much.. you've explained it beautifully.. 🖒🖒🖒 Highly anticipated..

For sealing the cutout before pouring the resin? Yes, you can! That's what I used too,just be sure to use at least 2 coats on both sides.

@@myriad_interests hi do i need to make dry first the varnish before i put in resin?

@@tkp_merchandise8565 yes,you need the varnish to be completely dry,so the resin doesn't seep into the paper underneath

@@myriad_interests okie thank u so much

Hi can i ask again. What brand did u use for mold?