I wanted making better not bms ?

I'm not sure the BMS is as important as a timer or energy level.... Those BMS have caused a lot of problems.

@@Mr.EeToMyself Indeed. All I use is an independent voltage monitor/capacity meter when actually using the pack, and this gives me a very good indication of the current state of charge. If anything has gone wrong with a cell, the charger bms will tell you at the point of next charge, which has never happened yet in the last 5 years and now over 550 charge cycles!!! - and the pack is still going strong with 93% capacity!. Just goes to show charging to 90% and discharging to no lower than 20% really does extend pack life enormously...

You can. But you have to be careful in your calculations or all hell will break loose. This is a good topic for debate and maybe I should make a video and talk about this.

@@vuaeco you only have to calculate if you are mixing different amp out put cells not capacity really, each bank just has to have the same total capacity, but hell yeah make a video on it dude I like your vids

How did it go?

​@@AQHChannel he dead ? I heard they are dangerous 😂

Thanks Earnie. That's a great idea!

14 should be fine. I use 16. must be quality silicon cables as you know

Great idea! How do you shrink it? Heat gun?

@@vuaecoThanks for your video ,I am building a battery this weekend from dead laptop batteries I will use those bottles cut off the ends and hit it with a heatgun.Bingo easy cheap shrink wrap. Your building yours from reclaimed cells I need to keep an eye on the Amp discharge rate too thanks again for the Ideas,I want a 48v 1000w battery but I was going to build a 54v overvolt to try to get more power since I am a big guy riding a 29" wheel for tork maybe still working out the math for the config in a triangle.

Yes you can and it would be fine

I have a 48v 1600w uberscooter. It currently has a SLA battery. I would like to switch it to either a li-on or a lipo. I am not necessarily interested in increasing the speed bit increasing the distance I can travel (at a decent speed) what would you recommend? And how do I build it. I'm just learning... love you videos!

Ohms or milliohms?

@@Ijusthopeitsquick miliohms sorry

I personally use R/C I max charger ( i have multiple use for it)..for some reason the fake Imax allows me to charge cells under 2.2 (which is fine..I need it to recharge cells that might drop under 2.2 when salavging batteries. My R/C only allows me to recharge at 6s..it's 25.2 V fully charged. I can put 2-ea 6s to 12 50V...it's in the 48-50V range. I prefer to manage my batteries that way...any ways...so i can repair packs and trouble shoot easier...use it in different things...such as Powerwheels at 6S It depends on how many parallel you use and what C ratings Laptops are only 10-15C..I'll do 4 -ea to 8800mah per 1s basically 24-ea 18650 per 6s at 8800mah at 15C.. It might be from your ESC with auto thermal shut off...trying to save itself.. it's like that on my r/c ESC... or it could be from your Batteries Thermasta...that black tear drop looking thing... The 1000W Brushless...is SUCKING/PULLING alot of electrons. It'll generate lots of heat in the batteries.... It can also be from your motor getting TOO HOT trying to save itself too.lol or Solder joints coming loose in packs you made.or one of the 18650....diaphram is getting ready to dis engaue...if it gets too hot.. or solder joints from connectors ect ...48V is alot of electricity. it'll heat up solder joints..Sometime the heat shrink is the only thing holding the joint in place..then sort of resolder itself.lol Trouble shoot and Isolate.....check the connectors solder joints That's why I prefer to limit it to only 6s build...so I can trouble shoot for a 18650 going bad... I had trouble with connector solder joints from time to time. I use thicker wires..but really need to change my 48V connections to something more beefy..Rather than just re inforcing it with HOT GLUE to help the heat shrink..lol ( clamp and solder the joints....) Becuase the Connectors are sort of bottle necking everything...if they're not rated at 48V or better...Solder not being able to handle the heat... Yeap....different solder grades...too. Most electronics are 5v-12v Max.lol

Shrink wrap gets brittle with exposure to UV (sunlight), and would also have to be replaced every time you open the box. Silicone is a better choice, IMO.

You could, but why bother? Each pack would only see 5A current, takign twice as long. IOW, no faster than charging one, then the other. The only advantage would be not having to switch the charge cable from one to the other, but my rule of thumb for li-ion is to only charge while I'm awake. Laziness = homelessness!

@@fun_ghoul I bought an outlet timer. I sleep easy

@@svendolufsen849 If it's not an Intermatic in the metal box, your easy sleep is in vain.

13P7S is only 26V. To make a 48V pack, you need a 12S to 15S battery pack. I think you're confused with the P and the S. It doesn't matter how many P you get in your pack. P is just for increasing range. S is specific to voltage of a battery pack. By the way, my battery is not composed of a 13P6S and 13P7S. It is composed of a 7P6S and 7P7S to make a 7P13S pack. Big difference.

@@vuaeco thank you boss really confused 😇😇😇. I have collected scrap laptop battery but now don't know how to make a battery pack, issue is sorting, align how to align/order which cell should be positive and negative. 2. What is the minimum voltage and AMPs each cell required for e-bike for 48v40ah or 52v40ah Can you please share if there is any blueprints or drawing sheets for cell align. kmurali.krishna00@gmail.com Requesting.... Here

You should use batteries with the same ratings (Ah and discharge rate). But I'd say you can get away with about 10% difference.

A BMS is dangerous too. He is still using a balance charger so would be alerted if some cells have problems when charging

You're mixing up Ah with A. They are not the same at all. 750W/48V = 16A (not 16Ah). That's the maximum the motor requires at 750W. When going up hill, a 750W motor can use more than 750W (maybe 1000W to 1500W in short burst). So yes, you can supply more than 16A. The more you can supply the better. 2. You can supply as many Ah as you can by adding more cells in parallel. But you only have limited space in your bike. 3 and 4. Each laptop cell can only give you 2A to 3A discharge. (not Ah) You will need at least 16A to run the 750W, 48V motor so you will need at least 6 cells in parallel.

@@vuaeco how to check call discharge rate can you please reply here.

You need to run a charge/discharge cycle test to determine its mAh capacity. That's how you can determine a good or bad cell. Watch this video if you want to learn more about this process: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r9t8l8xl1LqbqH0.html

Can be installed rc cell loggers and you ll now when and wich cell is discharged.

It isn't the cheapest, it was free from Harbor Freight.

yes I can see that. @vuaeco burning 30amp on the cycle track for 10 min with a trail of flames and black smoke, way to go

A welder that requires li-po or lead-acid batteries defeats the entire purpose (or rather, re-purpose) of this video. It also requires assembly, and costs more not only compared to the Sunkko unit he has, but even than competitive battery-powered products like the Arduino Spot Welder. So, no.

@@fun_ghoul lol it's you again

@@thediydude4110 LOL, you're an idiot.