Well I figured out the drive shaft - I'm thinking they drilled it out or cross threaded it. The hole is tapped, seems to be about 3/8 but neither 3/8 coarse nor 3/8 fine threads in smoothly. Guess I need to try metric before I force a 3/8 in.

Can you use a shorter bolt that will fit with the driveshaft in place? I don't know how long those bolts are because I have never removed that access panel on my L35, and there may be a little more clearance on the L35 than the L779. I'm not aware of any videos for removing the driveshaft, but I had a look in my service manual: it doesn't get into great detail, but rather just says to remove the bolt that connects the driveshaft to the forward-most yoke -- this is the yoke by the 4-way gear box. There is a big yoke bolt there, and it holds the yoke to the input shaft of the 4-way gear box. The manual just says this: "Slide the drive shaft off the gearbox input shaft after removing securing bolt A, Figure 6", and that "securing bolt A" is the big one on the yoke. Here's my video on the 4-way gearbox: I don't show this bolt in the video, but you can see what I mean about the input shaft inside the gear box, so you can understand what the manual is talking about (that shaft goes all the way through, and its rear-end is connected to the driveshaft at the yoke bolt): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p8yfdbt6vbezio0.html In case I'm not being clear enough, the bolt that I'm talking about looks kinda like a pinion nut that you'd see on a regular automotive differential (holding the diff yoke to the diff input), but its a big bolt instead of a nut. Please post back if that works. Then back on the other side of the driveshaft (engine side), you just loosen the square-head bolt that's on the very first yoke, and you pry that yoke off. I have in the past had to adjust that end (engine end) of the driveshaft before on my L35, and that connection wasn't too difficult to adjust (just had to pry a little) because that yoke is just secured with a Woodruff key. So I think if I were you, I'd loosen that square head bolt on the engine side yoke first, then remove the big bolt at the gearbox yoke next, then slide off the shaft from the gearbox yoke and wiggle/pry it free from the engine side. Don't lose the Woodruff key. Also, I'd mark/scribe the yoke and shaft at the gearbox side to be sure that I have reference alignment marks when it comes time to re-install. For install, the manual says to fasten the big bolt to 40 ft-lbs, plus or minus 5 ft-lbs, and to use Loctite 242 (medium strength) on the threads. That's all the info I have, so hopefully this helps you. Good luck!

@@L35inColorado Thanks... I managed to disconnect it on the 4 way gearbox side and just angle it out if the way. I had no idea that the driveshaft basically telescopes. Once removed there is enough room to just shove it out of the way. I'm going to have to chase the threads on the missing bolt on the tank with a tap since 3/8 coarse starts in but only 1/2 turn. 3/8 fine doesn't work at all. Unfortunately it means that 8m going to empty the tank of all the lovely new fluid I had put in as I'm pretty sure chasing the tap will generate some metal debris that I will need to try and flush out

While I'm still going to have to drain the tank I think I came up with a fairly ingenious way to remove the risk of shavings in the tank. I picked up one of those little telescoping magnets at harbor freight. I'm going to stick it up through the drain plug telescoped up to be right beneath the hole I'm chasing with a tap. Probably have to recruit some help from my wife or one of my kids but by having the magnet right at the hole instead of way down low I think I can catch all the shavings before they can fall potentially away from any magnet I could put at the bottom of the tank.

Thanks, I'm glad the video helped! Sounds like you have a fun rebuild, too! As for the paint -- its nothing fancy, because I was mostly doing it to encapsulate the lead paint. I mostly used what I happened to have on hand from other jobs, which is all stuff off the shelf at Walmart (except for POR-15). For the interior stuff: Blue is Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel, 254156. Yellow is Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel 254155 (I am pretty happy with the yellow, its a good paint for construction equip). Orange is Rustoleum 2x (don't have # anymore) My exterior paint job really isn't very good at all, I just wanted to do something to encapsulate the old lead paint and didn't want to spend too much money. I used POR-15 (brushed on) on the chain cases and covers, just because I had to use up a can that I opened for a different job (that stuff turns hard quickly if you don't use it up). The POR-15 actually worked out well because I didn't need to primer the old paint and POR-15 is very easy to work with, but POR-15 is expensive if you don't already happen to have it. I topped the POR-15 with Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel, Black, 338927. The other black (boom, cages, etc) are Rusto 338927, if I remember correctly. Again, I really wasn't being too picky because I just wanted the old paint covered! Whatever you decide to do, just remember that you likely have lead paint somewhere under the layers on yours. Thanks for the comment, and good luck!

Wow, that's cool! Thanks for watching : )

I just bought a 325, I found this video in hope of learning more about the old new Hollands. What are some of the main difference you notice? Thank you

the 225 and l325 do not have down pressure. A good set of books will tell you everything you need to know

According to the manual: - "Hydraulic Lifting Capacity to maximum height (SAE Operating Load)" is 1800 lbs (this is called "ROC" today); - height to top of bucket with the boom at max vertical extension: 146 inches (12' 2") - height to the bucket pivot point with boom at max vertical extension: 121.5" (10' 1.5") I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )

@@L35inColorado That is really helpful. Thanks for the info!

Oh no, that's no fun! Assuming there's no issue in the hydrostat itself, I'd first check all those linkages from the lever to the steering cylinder, and especially the spring that "resets" the neutral position for the levers. Check the pins/keys on the connections to the pintles to be sure that there's no slip. Hopefully it is something as simple as a loose connection between a linkage.. ??

I'm sorry I missed your comment -- I'm not sure how much fluid you would loose, but most of the fluid is in the reservoir when the system is cool -- but you want to be sure everything is cool. If you compare the height of the oil level in the reservoir using the dipstick to the height of your hoses to filter, you can get an idea of what you might lose. I changed the filter when the reservoir was empty, so I'm just not sure how much oil you'd lose otherwise. You could always just put a pan underneath to catch the oil, then refill with the same amount. Good luck!

Hi -- the drain plug for the hydraulic fluid is the one shown at 06:29: its the only plug that you will find the bottom of the big hydraulic reservoir. To fill it up, you just pour the new oil into the same spout where the dip stick is (shown at 12:43). Be sure to determine which kind of transmissions you have before you select the hydraulic fluid, because the Cessnas use ATF but the Vickers (the one in the video) use motor oil. The drivetrain (as in the chain drive) has its own lubrication. Each chain case is filled with about 2.5 gallons of oil, and the refill for those is shown at 09:10 (its a plug at the top of each chain case). Good luck!

Yeah -- I am trying to get that video up -- I misplaced some video clips, so I'm trying to piece it together in a coherent fashion (and then life intervened and took me off schedule). Check back maybe in another week!

I bought a L775 Ford New Holland skid steer back in the summer of 1993 ... I still have it !! It's been the most awesome machine that I've ever owned !! Hands down !! Bullet Proof !!! I feel compelled to congratulate you on all your videos!! Very informative with detailed narrative and instructionally perfect nominclature of facts !! Clear- beautiful close- up photography!!!! Thank You

Same here. My right side needs replaced. Can't get the drive gear off the trans shaft. Tried soaking for a few days, heat, pullers. No luck :(

There are a few causes, but I'd start with checking the fuel pressure regulator. Check out this video to see how to do that: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ntWnm8qD37euY30.html I hope that helps - good luck! : )

Thank you, your video of Sianna helped and I have one ordered. I will see the outcome.

Oh man, I'm sorry to hear that! Parts are hard to find, too. I hope you can repair it! Good luck : )

The manual states this: "With the boom down and oil cold, the oil should be at or just above the low mark on the gauge."

@@L35inColorado thank you 👍

it just seems like when the boom is elevated the reservoir would be sucked dry… especially if you’re on a downward leaning slope. i just don’t want to destroy my new pump.

@@davidsizemore9906 Remind me again - you're working on an L35 with Vickers transmissions, and you had to replace the vane pump? Have you done the purge described in the manual, where you open the port on the control valve? (The hydraulic purge procedure is different for the models with Vickers trans than it is for models with Cessnas - and the hydraulic fluid is different, too.)

yes i have. i’m using the tractor fluid they recommended at orielys.

I'm sorry I missed your comments! No, I don't have an 4-way gearbox, but I can say that this company is often able to source some odd parts (but $$$): www.universaltractor.com/ When I was restoring the L35, I got some rare parts from these vendors: www.wengers.com/agriculture/skid-loader-parts.html www.worthingtonagparts.com/skid-steer-parts I've had one transmission out on my L35 because it needed a shaft seal replacement and some other work, but I haven't had the 4-way gearbox out. However, if you can find an aftermarket option with the same dimensions at the OE box, that might also be a solution. For that, I would look at what Surplus Center has - their catalog is outstanding. You'll see with the gearbox that there's room to shim (and you'll have to shim, anyway to get the correct backlash on the gears). As you probably have already seen, nothing fits well with shimming and adjustment on these old skidsteers! So, while that's a tiresome process, at least it might mean that you can swap in a new aftermarket gearbox of "close-enough" geometry and them shim it for a custom fitment. I hope that helps - and if you're still looking for some instructions on the pump priming, let me know because I have some documents that I can use to make a short video on (but if you already have the big repair manual, then we have the same information). I didn't have my pump out, but I had one transmission removed, the control valve, steering cylinders, and most hydraulic lines out when I did the major work on this L35 a few years ago, so I had to prime the system just the same. I still have the documents, so that might help you if you don't have those. Let me know : )

bless you

I'm sorry I missed your comment - if you mean the parking brake, for this particular L35, a previous owner removed it for unknown reasons probably decades ago, so this L35 doesn't have one. It is my understanding that they were equipped with parking brakes, though. If you mean "brake" as in drive: there is no brake per se - the skidsteer should stop when you release the levers, because the levers control the swash plate angle in each hydrostatic transmission. If you're getting continued travel (or creep) even when the levers are released, such that you have to slightly pulled back on the lever to keep the skidsteer still, then you can adjust the links on each lever to each transmission to get the levers back into the correct neutral spot. Ideally, you want to lift the skidsteer and put it on blocks with all 4 wheels off the ground to make those adjustments. I hope that helps : )

@@L35inColorado thank you. I appreciate your help and message I will look into it. Have a good day.

Ah man, I'm sorry that's happening! It sounds almost like your pump failed, but there are likely many other possible causes (control valve, pump gear in the 4-way gear box?). I don't know if this video would help, but here's an old video I posted on the 4-way gear box which shows the input from the engine to the pump (Vickers setup): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p8yfdbt6vbezio0.html The hydraulic oil expands when it gets hot, which is why it will overflow if you open the fill spout while hot. Have you reached out on the forums? Here are some examples of forums where there are very knowledgeable people: www.mytractorforum.com/threads/new-holland-problems.162643/ Do you have any new info since posting your comment?

@@L35inColorado thanks. i’ll check it out

Haha, thanks, but I'm not a real mechanic, just a shadetree! The hardest part with the rebuilds on these almost 50 year old machines is getting the parts. The work I did on mine took months because of how hard it is to find parts! But it is a fun and rewarding project if you have some patience, because they are pretty solid and durable machines. Good luck!