Just a word of caution if you're planning on following the same technique by using a dremel, be careful with that carbide bit. You can overdo it and cut all the way to the other side of the pot. One good alternative is to use a small triangular file if you don't own a rotary tool. Extremely helpful video once again!

Nice, right to the point and clear instruction. Thnx Amigo!

Just about to do this on a blend mod for a stray, following you're other instructional video on that but had got new standard pots without realising the normal need for a no load type. Hopefully this will work for me

Only need to scrape through down to the base material. The track is glued on/ impregnated on. Just scrape through until dust from the printed circuit board material starts to appear. You can also scrape inside & outside of the track to raise the pots value, i.e ., 280-300 +. Apply some dialectic grease after to prevent scratchy pot syndrome.

It seems quite difficult to get a 25k no load pot for my active pickup set up and I was contemplating just getting a 250k to see how it sounds. Thanks to this video I can now just mod the existing pot. Thank you :)

I'd consider ramping the end of the track more, so the wiper doesn't jam in that slot and bend / damage the contact. That square end from the cut seems a tad crude to me.

Great Video, I have done this to several Guitars and it is a must do MOD! If I remember correctly, I did this to the volume, pot, too.

Tricky on a push-pull or push-push but possible. Thin rubber bands to hold the wiper in the case, a gob of bluetac on the table to help hold the pot in place and steady shaft down, as either a very small circlip on the shaft just below the knob splines or a rivet on the bottom prevents pulling all apart . The diamond grinder bits for the Dremel work a bit more like fast sand paper and wont grab the lugs disc out of your hand nor cut clean through the disc unexpectedly as the carbides can.

And, in a normal use May I use this mod to select from full signal A to Full signal B gradually?

Does anyone know how a no-load pot affects a spin-a-split mod? I'm planning on doing a mod to my guitar where I have a pull-pot that in the down position works as a regular tone pot (with this DIY no-load mod), and in the up position the pot can blend between double or single coils in my humbucker (spin-a-split mod). side note; if anyone knows of any schematics for this particular modification I'd be very grateful.

Thanks for this. In my Firebird, I literally just used the existing 2 tone pots for spin-a-splits for each of the pickups. So both are 500k, it sounds fine to me, but are you saying I wouldn't really notice much difference in tone anyway, if I made them no-load pots using this method? I heard that by them not being no-load, this means they wouldn't give a true humbucker output, is that a myth? Cheers.

Hi. Question here. I have a wiring diagram for an HSS strat with volume, tone, and blender pot. The diagram labels the blender pot as "cut wiper." Is that the same thing as cutting the track in this video? And my second question is that if I purchase a no load blender pot, the wiper has been cut already (so I would not need to do this)? Thanks...just want to be sure before I purchase.

Any luck doing this to a push pull tone pot?

If you castrate the pot like that how does the signal get thru to the output jack?

What if I run a jumper from the 3rd lug to the second after grinding the off channel at zero, will this cause the full 260 k to be in the circuit?

So you're saying is whether it's a normal audio pot or a blender / no load pot, there is no difference in terms of the blend control build? So there's no need to do this?

So for a reverse taper pot you’d still just cut it on the side that reads 250k then?

Thanks for another great video, very useful! I have spoken to you before and have been a subscriber for over a year now I think. I have a real puzzler of a question for you, if you don't mind. I recently used one of your vids to rewire my 2016 LP Standard to "classic" wiring using orange drop type caps and it worked and sounded great. Now, 3 days ago I changed out the P90 neck and the hot rails bridge pickups for Pro-bucker Mini-humbuckers. The pickups are loud when picking an OPEN string, but as soon as I fret I get a very thin sound and weirdest yet is I get the SAME NOTE all the way along the fret board?! WTF? I have never seen this before, but I am an amateur luthier and at 62 have much to still learn. My personal guess is I have one of the pickups PHYSICALLY out of phase (magnetically) The screwable posts are facing opposite directions currently, neck posts towards neck, and bridge p.up posts towards the bridge. Sending up a flare... NOW! S.O.G. LOL

Wouldn't the unmolested pot be the one with no load?

Have you done this mod to a DPDT push pull pot? If so I would love to see a video on that please.

just as easy to do with a Knife and Scratch the Track away

Hello, I hear you say it and it's in the tittle but you do not show how to wire a pot to be a blender. I can't seem to find any diagrams, only links to buy a "blender" pot, can't find anything on how to "make" a blender pot.

I am naïve as hell when it comes to this stuff, but I've given it a go and changed all three strat pots to no load pots and nothing is working. Can you use no load (stock) pots for all three controls? i.e Master volume, and two tone knobs? I've got 5-way switch on a squire. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what I'm doing wrong and how to fix please? Thanks in advance

How can you make a standard pot into a low friction pot because I'm not sure what makes a low friction pot different from a standard or regular standard pot

Im wondering if those set up wuld work for distributor pick up coils I have realy difficulty to understand pwm ac generator control 😬 The reason I need that staff is to retard ignition timing it is similar to guitar pick up after all. I did suposedly do it wrong way around and ended up with wire resistance problems and used b500k potenciometer . Evry thing ended in havoc engine worked porely realy but it did retard ignition timing even tought insted compresion ignition I ended up at exaust ignition. So some how some where I ended up at phase shifting pick up coil at 180° out of phase. So preaty much desaster experiment. Can some on please help me? How capacitors and resistors effect pick up coils and how to advance retard phase shift be only 10-20° +/- value. Im realy anoyed no where can I finde information how to control that strange pick up coil or the ignition module. Hoppe some one has calculation methodes for pick up coil phase shifting . Also was wondering if remote controled circuets exist because wires made a mess be me trying it out on me car.

The un-molested pot. 😂

Wait. This is the same as just not connecting the 3rd lug isn't it? This seems so silly.

use a Bourns brand pot that has an off position, and it clicks to the off position. You can hear it click to off (if you are in a quiet room), instead of taking a pot apart to convert it to have an off position.

Nope 😂

waste of time when you can buy them done

Do you know if you can do this to the CTS Push Pull pots (EP-6286-000 CTS)? They have a circuit board and I have never tried with them.