Absolute diamond .. i been trying to start the bms for weeks and bypassed and trickled juice in and heyho .. working .. 🎉🎉

Thanks for the useful information , I have 4 of the same batteries in my battery bank , now in the event I have a BMS shut down I will try the same method , I get the method and it was great to see cheers

Thanks for contributing to the renogy knowledge!

Watched your video after over discharging my renergy 100amph battery, followed your video .my battery is now charging mery Xmas and thank for saving me a shit load of time and trouble all the best cheers 🍻

Hello from Denver. For a 12 volt system only, regardless of the number of batteries in the bank, tape 9 AA batteries in series=13.5 volts. Use any size wire and connect Pos. to Pos. and Neg. to Neg for a couple of seconds, and the BMS will wake right up. Cheers!

Great video, has saved 2 Renogy 100s we thought were dead. Good job!

Thanks for this video! It gave me the confidence to open up my older non-smart Renogy battery that I couldn't wake up, no matter what method I tried. Although mine was much more difficult to disassemble, once I got in there, I found the cells were about 10 volts, so all I had to do was unplug the BMS and plug it back in. Now it's charging fine. Much appreciated!

BMSs can shut off for many reasons . It is a self protection and I found out by accident that it was necessary to disconnect the negative battery to BMS connection in order to clear the error shut off . I had accidentally shorted a balance wire while soldering and an over voltage occurred . Fortunately nothing burned out and when I reconnected the battery it worked fine again. My battery and BMS were not Renogy .

Dude this episode saved my ass! THANK you!! I did exactly what you said and it worked! YOU ROCK!!

Brilliant 🏆it work and thanks so very much 🙏🏿

I had to do a cheappy one this way. Gave it 12v at 2a for a few minutes and the bms reset. I had run it flat by leaving the inverter on.

My problem is different. I discharged the hundred amp battery till the inverted squealed and left for a couple of days. Now the battery won’t charge more than 10 V when it’s charging. The voltage rises nearly 11 V then when you stop charging it drops back about 9.99 V. can’t get the voltage back up to what it should be.

I had the same problem. I left my system on and drained all 3 100ah smart self heating Renogy batteries. I started charging them with my Multiplus 3000va, but only 2 of the were able to waken up, one was sitting at 3 volts. I tried everything and nothing worked, the battery just didn't want to take charge. I cannot believe I did not thing of charging it before the BMS to give it some voltage so the BMS can sense it and awake. Thanks for the video! I did just that, hooked my MPPT directly before the BMS, charged it above 12.8, hooked it up to the BMS and instantly the BMS kicked it, now I'm charging normal. Thanks!!!

Man, thank you so muchj for this. I did the same thing - left fridge on during clowdy pacific NW weather and killed both batteries. Overdischarge error came on and could find nowhere that told me what to do about it.

Excellent ... a kindred spirit :)

I had the same issue with my 200ah batteries, I had a bad connection on my 60amp controller, so the solar was not charging the batteries and the rv killed them, all of a sudden my inverter charger let out the low voltage warning and everything went dead, luckily I had heard about this so I plugged my motomaster battery charger booster to my generator and set it on the 10amp charge and touched it to the terminals and woke them up. The funny part is, the inverter/75 amp charger would not wake them up when the generator was running. I guess the charger could not detect the batteries because the bms had them completely shut down

Thanks Darryl, my over discharged batts (same make/model) are reading 4.3V. I think I'll try it out

thanks Darryl I’ll have a crack at my enerdrive which is doing the same thing. The only difference is there’s no Allen key screws so i will have to bust the case

I was in same boat and awoke it by pairing asleep battery to awoke battery and that worked. HOWEVER, I told Renogy what I did and they said I ruined warranty claims in future; gee thanks Renogy. Renogy told me afterwards that pairing asleep battery to awoke battery is NO NO and ruins warranty claims in future. Renogy said I should have bought their portable charger that has an awake setting for such instances. Gee thanks Renogy. Instead I bought a AmpereTime portable 40amp battery that's wonderful for such occasions as a large battery bank that fell asleep won't awake so easily. I had to remove each battery and awake each with the AmpereTime charger.

Can you not connect both batteries together and just use the single working data port for both?

LOL jumper cables connected to the terminals from a 12V LA worked

Hi, had a similar problem (not quiet as low as your discharge rate), spoke to Renogy they advised to charge the battery through my 50a Renogy dcdc charger which I had connected to panels. this seemed to wake the bms (after a bit of time) and then charge as normal.

My lithium shut off and to restart I had my epower charger bolted on and jumper cable from another battery clipped on then turned on the epower charger then disconected the jumper cable and away it went.

I used a $30/2A Norco genius to wake up an over discharged older Renogy 100 lithium.

I was able to wake up battery and inverter/charger with NICO battery jumper.

Anyone try this method with the 50ah 12v model (RNG-BATT-LFP-12-50) ? I've contacted Renogy support and they've told me to either connect it to a lithium charger or supply it with 14.4v/1.3A dc power source for 2-3 days until the battery is reading 13v. I've just connected it to a lab power supply running @ 14.4v/1A for the last 2-3 hours but the power supply is showing no current draw, I don't know whether the BMS is cooked or I just need to wait.

Three batteries in the camper! Excellent.

I have a bmw battery, wondering if this will work for me🤔 I might have to do a video on my channel 😉 good job buddy 👍🏿

I had a similar issue where I could not restart my battery however it was not a low battery issue the battery is fully charged it just won’t turn on on closer inspection and 50,000 emails back and forwards with Renogy it was a BMS problem there are 5 dead fuses labelled Z on top Close to the negative input side I am quietly Confident after replacing them I should be able to get the battery running again fingers crossed

This is awesome I found nothing, even 2 years later. I have the 12v 50ah and it shiws 0v. Cant wake it up for quids after trying all the methods out there.i am emailing back and forth with renogy, they are very slow, and they have escalated it to technician level 2. I think they have 3 years of warranty so dont want to open it up, it has no screws for easy access 😢. Anyway looks like another option. Thanks for making the video

Great video, stupid question , but did you try waking it via the data port pushbutton switch?

Good battery just bad warranty in Australia, if you purchase make sure you use paypal for buyer protection, I recently had to make a claim for a renogy lithium charger that melted not long after purchase I'd bought it along with a 100ah smart battery and battery monitor for just under $1k, renogy never responded to my ticket or emails or paypals attempts for communication all taking place over 3 months during which their warranty page disappeared so I escalated it through paypal and got a refund for the whole amount i realy only wanted a refund for the charger but hey bugger them id be stuffed if something else went wrong. Also when buying renogy gear you can use "willprowse" as discount code for 10% discount and get the battery for $680.00. Its a Shame warranty sucks as their products are mostly good the DC-DC charger in my truck has been brilliant so hopefully they get their act together. love your vids Darryl keep them coming regards Don

Legend, thought my 100 ah renogy was toast !

Hi again! Quick question - my battery is almost identical except where yours says "smart" mine says bluetooth. Not sure if that is a later model, but there are no screws on top - its like an Iphone.... impossible to open. Any idea how i might open it?

Did you try to set up charger and then add a "jump" or charger just so the charger could see the voltage?

Quesstion: Your battery charger has clamps. who were you able to connect it into those tiny holes on the yellow negative and possitive terminals? do you have an attachment that goes into the holes? Sorry i am very new to this.

Hi there Darryl Thinging of purchasing TWO Renogy 100amp lithium batteries just wondering how working out you how, would any appreciate feedback would help thanks again.

The battery bms needs to see a charging input. Smart chargers don't give an output if there's no load, bms shutoff effectively makes that happen. The bms effectively needs a jump start. Also the Renogy ones have a 'on shelf' switch.

Great Videos Darryl. Not sure if this would help but I noticed Itech World in Perth have a 12V LITHIUM BATTERY BYPASS SWITCH for sale for $79. Don't see why it wouldn't suit other lithium's.

I am having the same issue with a Chin's 100ah Smart Battery with heaters

I have the same battery and ran it till it cut out, I just used jumper cables connecting another battery to it, then could activate the battery again with the monitor

Lithium jumper starter

Seems simple enough, bypass the bms and jump the lithium batteries directly. How are renogy to deal with in terms of warranty, is it as bad as general support? How was the process when you got your original battery replaced under warranty?

I can’t believe renogy au didn’t write back to you about the procedure… what happens if this didn’t happen earlier on in the ownership and something failed after a year - ebay and PayPal assistance will be long gone…

The way you casually tap the terminals freaks me out dude but great workaround

So I followed your advice and my battery started to smoke and no longer works 😓😓😓😓

Concerning charging Renogy smart batteries at 14.4v: I want to tell you what one Renogy support tech told me. Keep in mind that I'm completely in the dark and have no understanding beyond what I'm being told. So I'm only parroting back what I heard. From Renogy tech support: Most deep cycle lithium batteries use a common cell type (crystalline or cylindrical? ). Those types of batteries are fully charged when they hit 14.6v. Renogy smart batteries use a different cell type (bag's? ) and they can only be charged to 14.4v. 14.6v will overcharge the cells and damage them . Now, given how little trust I have in the rest of the "support " I have received from Renogy, I don't know what to make of it. I asked the tech support about the bms and whether or not it would shut the charging current off at 14.4v and I was told no, that's not how the bms works. (A bit more explanation would have been welcome but that was as much as I could draw out of them). You may be perfectly correct that you can charge the Renogy smart batteries at 14.6v. But the point is, while I think you're a swell guy and I like your videos, your opinion isn't the rock solid definitive answer I would want. I'd want a scientific explanation or for the manufacturer to definitively say. But such definitive answers are hard to come by. And in my opinion, it's criminal for Renogy to be unable to give that definitive answer. They will only say that 14.6v is unacceptable. Their answer is frankly just confusing. Especially in light of what you did about their own dc to dc charging at 14.6v. Maybe you are perfectly confident in charging at 14.6v. But as a lay person, I'm going off what Renogy is saying. I personally don't know any better. And that's the point. Normal people won't know either. Normal people looking to do a "simple upgrade" to lithium batteries won't know any of this. They won't know about or understand the difference between 14.4v and 14.6v charging. They won't know about the 7 pin alternator charge line being a problem. They won't know what a bcdc is and they certainly won't know the level of potential rewiring that will be needed just to swap out two lead acid batteries to two lithium. There are virtually no videos that directly address swapping out lead acid for lithium. I mean, like the standard rv has two lithium batteries and you want to replace them with two lithium. The handful of videos out there addressing this are by people who don't understand what they are talking about. I didn't learn about the vehicle charge line being an issue from the handful of videos I spoke of. I got all this information tangentially from many other videos dealing with much more complicated installs. While I figured out how to make my Renogy batteries work while addressing all of these issues without a bcdc (I only learned about that in this exchange), you're probably right that an all inclusive management system is the way to go. But again, I only learned about this bcdc thing tangentially through this exchange. A really good explanation for how to swap our two lead acid batteries for two lithium batteries dosen't exist that I've found yet. The videos that I have found seem to be egregiously disinformative.

rs 45 or is it rj 45?

I'm not sure but why would you blame yourself, shouldn't the BMS protect this issue from happening,

I'm fairly new to the Renogy line of products,,,, and I now own quite a few. I'm probably not telling anyone anything they don't already know, but Renogy's "Support" is,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, questionable at the best of times. To be perfectly frank, it seems to me as thought the Renogy "Support" staff don't understand the equipment at all. Now, I don't want anyone to ascribe something to me that I'm not. What I'm about to say is not meant to be racist or even derogatory. It's just a simple statement of facts and my own personal observations having spent time on the phone with Tech Support. Supposedly, when you call Tech Support you are calling California. I have not ONCE been in contact with a native English speaker. The first thing right off the hop is that for me at least, I have A LOT of trouble understanding what they are saying. I constantly have to ask them to repeat themselves. It's frustrating for both partiers. Secondly, they all seem to be reading from a script. You ask them a detailed question, and sometimes they give you an unrelated answer. Or, they give you an answer that you have already ruled out. Or they give you a "Non-Answer" leaving you more confused than when you started. I get the distinct impression that the "Tech Support" don't have any idea what they are talking about when it comes to the things they are supposed to be supporting. It's almost like these were migrants that Renogy hired to staff a phone bank and gave them all a script to read. And that's as good as it gets once you are able to even get ahold of someone. I said all that so I could say this. It's ALMOST! unbelievable that Renogy can't give you a simple answer as to how to wake the BMS up. In fact, it would be unbelievable (as in I wouldn't believe you) if not for the fact that I have experienced this level of support for myself. How is it that Renogy can't simply tell you how to wake the BMS up? They tell you that it can be woken up by making the board see a certain voltage and current, but they don't know HOW one is supposed to do that. THEY FRIGGIN DESIGNED, BUILT, AND SOLD THE FRIGGIN THINGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Here is one mans opinion having dealt with Renogy for about a year now. Their equipment generally speaking seems to be good value per dollar in the sense that the build quality is pretty good for the money. But the support end of things is just egregiously bad. I got into Renogy originally because they offer fairly feature rich devices for the money. It's not Victron levels of features, but it's not Victron money either. Being able to see what your equipment is doing from your phone via BT without the need for shunts and display units and the hassle of the wiring required was a big incentive to me, coupled with the cost. But the gods honest truth is that if I had it to do all over again, I'd probably invest in Battleborn and Victron purely for the sake of having support. You know who Renogy is really good for? Someone who actually knows what they're doing and knows how this technology works. Not from a plug and play perspective, but literally knows how BMS's work and and how to dig into the guts of this stuff. If you have a certain level of expertise, than this Renogy equipment is probably a really good bang for the buck. But the vast majority of people who buy a Renogy Battery would probably end up tossing out a perfectly good battery and buying a different brand altogether once they got fed up with the fact that Renogy can't help them correct a simple problem. Renogy products really appeal to the average joe looking to do a simple upgrade to their RV. The price is right and it looks pretty plug and play. But, here are a couple things to think about. Virtually all Lithium specific Inverter Chargers for RV's are set at a charge voltage of 14.6v. And MOST lithium batteries for RV's can happily charge at that voltage. But these Renogy "Smart" batteries charge at 14.4v. And if you call Renogy Tech Support, they will tell you that 14.6v is unacceptable. Now, one must ask themselves, are they telling me this because its a hard and fast rule? Or are they telling me this because that's what written on the paperwork and they don't have any actual idea if .2v is fatal to the battery or not. What I can tell you is that the official stance from Renogy is that 14.6v is unacceptable. Now, if this strictly speaking is true, than one might ask, then how the hell are you supposed to charge the batteries from the Converter Charger in your RV. To which Renogy will tell you, Our batteries are really mean to be charged with solar through an MPPT and or a DC to DC charger. And while that's all fine and dandy as far as it goes, MOST PEOPLE WILL NEED TO CHARGE THEIR BATTERIES USING THEIR SHORE POWER AND A CONVERTER CHARGER! Renogy has NO ANSWER for how to get around this. Now,,,,,,,,,, if one digs far enough, there are solutions. But discovering solutions has the side effect of also making you aware of other concerns. The solution to the problem here opens up several other questions to which Renogy also has no input at all. Example, MaxPower makes a converter charger that has a fixed voltage mode where you can set the voltage. Great. Now you can charge your Renogy batts at 14.4v. But Fixed voltage means just that. It's fixed. Your converter Charger will stay at 14.4v for as long as it's plugged in. If you are plugged into shore power for long periods of time, you really shouldn't leave your batteries at 14.4v. On top of that, it's not exactly ideal to keep your RV DC circuits at 14.4v for long periods of time either. Thus, one must get a bit more creative if they wish to address these issues. How about this. Depending on which of the 30 million KZfaq videos you watch, the charging line from your alternator through your 7 pin trailer whip, if left as is, will at best, not really charge your Lithiums, and at worst, will destroy your alternator, the wire, and potentially harm your batteries. Ironically, it's VERY hard to find straight forward information on this. I don't need to charge my batteries from my vehicle so I disconnected my charging line. The only downside is now my vehicle can't help with the electric Tung jack. If you need to charge your batteries from your alternator, you're going to want a DC to DC charger. But the wire in your 7 pin trailer whip is going to be insufficient so you will need to do some additional wiring. Renogy has ZERO to say about any of this. They have no idea what you're even talking about if you were to ask them. I know from experience. And we haven't even gotten into the idea of having to upgrade the factory cable. IN FACT, changing over to Lithium batteries is akin to moving to a completely different eco system. While one CAN with enough effort make a Converter Charger work (I know because I've done just that), in reality, the best thing to do is to sort of break the system apart by having a purpose built 120v charger close to the batteries, and having a 120 converter just to run the DC Circuits when plugged into shore power (if you decide you even want one). One could also forgo the Converter altogether and just let the batteries supply the DC load 100% of the time. By keeping the charger close to the batteries, the VERY HEAVY CABLE you will want to charge the batteries will remain short. You could then get away with maybe a nice 4awg (maybe a 6awg if your a cheapskate) back to the DC panel. The moral of this Wall of text is this. Upgrading to Lithium is not Straight forward. And Renogy isn't the company you want if you need support.

To much talk...