I’m a licensed mechanical contractor and licensed master plumber. In regards to your comment: You are wrong on almost everything you said.

@@gunsnstuff4040 but is right to not have appliances connected during a test. Tests should be isolated with plugs and caps and without low psi valves in the test.

@@dangunnoeAre you kidding? A ball valve can only handle 1psi???? No, I doubt it!

i heard to much pressure isn't good so where should he have stopped to preserve life to his system components? using the same idea?

@@pocketdiy I wouldn't cross over 5 PSI. First the residential meter typically has a maximum allowable operation pressure of 5PSI. Pass that and you can ruin the meter. When I look for leaks I keep it around 3PSI.

that makes sense. You could always turn off the valve right after the gas meter?

@@dsolproductions Typically there's no valve after the meter. There's one before it that protects the regulator too. This video is SO wrong.

I used to test new installed gas lines with a pressure gauge a bike pump and no more than 10lbs PSI for 15min or was 15lbs PSI for 10mins definitely not 30lbs that is very

Boy, you sure don't know anything about lug nuts. If you were to tighten cars wheels to that spec look out because the lugs will break somewhere down the road. The Alcoa 22.5" wheels on my 36 foot motorhome are torqued to 300 Ft. Lbs.

Natural gas is lighter and will rise. Propane on the other hand will settle and create an issue.

@@tonyrodriguez9014 true, I should’ve specified propane

That sounds right. I am thinking multiple pounds of gas pressure could fry one's furnace gas valves, as well as the ones on the range and the hot water heater {and any other gas appliance such as a dryer if used}. In use pressure is supposed to be around 1/2 pound and testing needs to be higher, I understand about 2 or 3 pounds. I'm planning to test mine and may use a higher pressure but will remove all appliances and put the appropriate caps on the lines. I will not have to worry about the gas meter as my gas is already turned off and the gas company will bring the meter back when they pass me for turn on. With no appliances on completely isolated with caps, I bet you could test that iron pipe with 30, or 60 pounds. Probably 5 pounds at best if one only isolates the appliances by turning their toggle switch valves off without disconnection and cap. I would love to know if any electric gas valves {hundreds of dollars to replace} failed as a result of this testing.

If the appliances’ valves were Off, testing to a higher pressure is good! Better than good!

@spirit seker My sugar buns are toasted, now.

Shutoff valves must always be kept open, as they only stop 1/2-1 psi pressure.

Nitrogen is not for diy'ers ass wipe more like for pro plumbers prick

I’m all ears

​@@francistafaro3 (United States) The gas pressure out by the street varies, but is around 60 lbs. Residential (house) gas pressure is less than one pound going through the regulator/meter (safety). Every gas appliance (water heater, range, dryer, furnace, etc.) has its own secondary regulator (safety). When testing a house using higher pressure you MUST disconnect each appliance and temporarily cap it or you'll possibly (probably) damage each secondary (more delicate) regulator, designed for regulating only a fraction of a single pound. Most of the gas shut-off valves are also designed for very low pressures. Once the appliance's gas legs (or branch lines) are properly capped you can air the system up to 60 lbs (or more). As for pipe compound (pipe dope), the main purpose of pipe dope is to lube the threads so you can properly tighten and (possibly later) loosen the joint....it is absolutely NOT to make the seal. The(malleable) metal to metal, threaded portion should make the permanent seal. I gotta go.......thx.

@@readmore3634 Find me one ball valve (for gas) that’s rated under 3 PSI please! Almost EVERY appliance has a ball shut off valve, and I believe they can easily handle 50PSI. Waiting

Absolutely a waste of time and material. I have proven this time and time again with my guys. I only use dope on water in underground applications for 20 years and not once have I ever had a call back. We have 3 areas in the county water system where it is common to see upwards 200 psi. At the curb. If dope can handle that, there isn't a gas line on earth going to match that demand. Thread tape was from my old days really, we still call it dope, but it's not, It's very rare to find true dope any more. Now we use ptfe, aka Teflon paste. Dope was petroleum based, which ate plastic, so we had to use thread tape on plastic. Out of habit I still tape plastic threads, I feel it also helps fill the threads. But it's unnecessary now, and to go a bit further, if you do use tape on gas you need the yellow gas tape because the regular spreads off into the gas line and can clog orifices. Or just use dope and be done lol.

He does a diy test pressure, so when the gas company gets called they turn on the gas only if it passes their pressure test.

HAHAAH 1/2 PSI ......boy you are a Rookie.

Alex Knappenberger why not just use 6psi.....how would u check for leaks up to regulators?