Thanks, and thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!

thank you for making the group! and congrats on the TR recognition!

@@WeRideSouth much appreciated. The FB RP group is great to see everyone and so many ideas along the way. The TR forum gift was an amazing surprise. That group is also very rewarding and full of so many great and smart contributors. I love seeing all the sharing of ideas and knowledge from so many angles.

Glad it was helpful!

Don't you think only 2 bearing would do the job as they are supposed to support 255kg/m each? Why 4? And how much do you prefer this fore/aft movement version over the only lateral one? Thanks again.

Thanks! Increasing the pressure will increase the resistance. I've only heard of a few people having issues with ruptured balls. It could be a defect in the ball quality. You can definitely increase the number of balls if that's an option.

Thanks!

Thanks for watching! All of your improvements are awesome. Nothing beats good collaboration. Happy riding, let me know how it goes!

Update: Assembled (no finish applied yet) and tested. This is an AMAZING design. Riding motion is so much better than without the rocker board. Doubling the number of spings provides the exact amount of fore and aft motion that I was looking for. Super enjoyable project for a DIY'er - it took about 1 1/2 weeks of spare time. The build is "industrial quality" using all of the supplies and recommendations from Andrew. I've also determined that with the Kickr Bike it isn't necessary to tie it down to the top plate as the bike weighs about 100 lbs and the flywheel is massive (50 lbs?). I attempted to tip it while riding and it isn't going anywhere. Obviously, you need to determine if this is appropriate for your bike and rocker plate setup. Finish Update: Rather than a custom paint job I've decided to take the Wahoo Kickr mat I bought, and adhere it to the top plate with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. Once adhered, I'll trim it with a knife to about 1/4" overhang, flip the plate upside down and use a straight router bit with a roller pilot riding on the edge of the ply to trim it perfectly flush. I know it is an expensive mat to sacrifice but it is cheaper than the cost of the automotive paint I would use if I did the custom paint job. If you like this idea I know that there are cheaper mats on Amazon. This will provide a nice "no-slip" and tough finish to the top plate.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

but cheaper!

I just had one made. I'll post it up on my website tomorrow.

@@WeRideSouth what's your website?

@@edisonsaguban9898 www.andrewgrabbs.com

I think I’m going to try 4 skateboard trucks down the center with a couple of trampoline springs.

Thank you and good luck on your project!

@@WeRideSouth temporary pause. Bolts too short for the mounts. my panels are 16mm, mounts are 20mm. I will need around 6-10mm additional clearance. off to Wickes to see if I can grab some. other than that. my boards are cut and drilled

Build complete, but with some issues. I need to do a little more engineering. Main issue is the clearance of the top board . Once the bike is mounted Im losing clearance as the top of the standoffs are hitting the top. You mentioned raisers or washers for the linear bearings, I will try to raise that to see if works. When the balls are in, it does raise the level, but it causes the board to flex. Some positioning is required. Any further tips on clearance solutons?

@@blackcyclist the 3mm risers should be plenty of clearance. Your wood shouldn't really flex much if you used enough layer birch plywood

@@WeRideSouth I added some 3mm risers and this worked a treat. Just a few hiccups but all good now

The groove in the centerline is only for alignment purposes, there is no mechanical benefit.

Thanks for the quick reply, really appreciate the information.😁👍

@@colinbourhill7362 thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! I do sell them locally. I'm in the DFW area. Some people have taken my design in the Rocker Plate group on Facebook and made it into a multi page print. It's available in the files section of the group.

The sizes are built into the DXF, but I'm not sure how you would expose them in Autodesk. I have never used it. There is a group on Facebook called Rocker Plates where some people have created PDFs of the files with measurements. If you open the google drive document and scroll down you'll see a row titled "PRINTABLE PDFs Thanks To Ed Robbins" Those have the measurements listed.

Thanks Darren! A lot of people use lawn mower wheel tubes in the RP Facebook Group; however, I have no experience with them. They are a viable option.

That is a 20mm lock collar and it was only for a prototype. In the latest design I use the lower rod supports as a spring stops and adjust the bearings to pre-load the springs against the supports. This way it reduces cost/parts.

Inside the facebook group rocker plates another user has converted my designs to a printable sheet by sheet template. Join the group and check out the file section.

@@WeRideSouth Cheers, just joined the group!

If you're looking to buy one I should have a couple available next week.

I have a couple of the new versions available if you're still looking for one.

It does fit the Wahoo KICKR. You can just use velcro straps

Thanks, I'm not sure I understand your question tho.

Any 5" sturdy play ground/dodge ball should work.

bottom: facebook.com/groups/415329188897706/permalink/1111994209231197 top: facebook.com/groups/415329188897706/permalink/1111994399231178

Thanks! As it is now it will not work with the core.

I do not provide solid works project files. Sorry.

The linear rod is 55" but you can use 1300mm. The boards are 60" in length. As for the balls I bought mine on Amazon if you check the google document in the link below everything will be in there.

Thank you! For the Kickr Core you would need to leave a bit more wood on the back when cutting for the rear lateral support, however, some have swapped the front support for the rear or shortened the rear all together. I would advise against any modifications and go with leaving more material on the rear of the board. Good luck!

Thank you very much.

Thank you very much.

sorry for the delay, did you find the springs? I use allied for those.

So the video shows a V1 in the google document I have an exploded view of where the spring should go. They should both be located on the inside bearings, one up front and one in back. SCS20UU (40mm) require at minimum 3mm spacers.

@@WeRideSouth got it. thanks for the quick reply

should be fine with the Zwift Hub

Thanks! my latest video has unedited audio to show how loud it is: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qbxhq8h82dPQd6s.html

The fore and aft is really good and is very close to a Saris M5. Very happy with the springs. Also one ball per side is plenty with the 6" I feel like two wouldnt allow much movement and would require more work to maintain.

@@WeRideSouth Last question... how loud is it? Some people complain that the shaft design is very loud. Wondering how yours is?

@@mariofiorucci5836 I havent noticed it, but usually I have tv on and about 4 fans, so I dont notice it at all. I'm sure if you riding it with nothing on you would hear something. I'll do a video of how loud mine is.

You only need about 2-3 inches back and forth, the springs prevent the linear bearings from going back too far and also center them back after fore-aft movement.

You will need to center your bike wherls on the centerline of the top plate

Thanks for watching! So to answer your questions: 1. This was a prototype and I hadn't finalized the top linear bearings where they would leverage the linear rod supports, so this really isn't necessary with the new design which preloads the springs against the rod supports. 2. The springs are pre-loaded and counter act each other. Behind the spring is the linear rod support so you physically cannot go any further once you compressed the springs completely. If you're concerned about this you could beef up the springs with thicker wire. I have not had an issue. 3. There is an issue with SCS vs SBR bearings. The SCS bearings require about a 3-5mm riser vs the SBR that do not require a riser; however, the SBR are 35mm mounting holes vs the 40mm of the SCS so if you've already cut, switching probably isn't in the cards. You can cut some from wood or plastic. I hope that answers your questions.

Sure does! Thanks man. The design itself was really easy to reproduce so far. I don't have a cnc either so my buddies and I made a couple of hardboard templates, jig sawwed it and routed to finish. The "hard" part is getting the rod installed. Without the cnc, a good template is needed to get your bolt holes correctly located. But my buddy who ordered the bearing blocks assumed the 35mm spacing and we bought the 40mm spacing. Our template is jacked up for that now! Lol.

I use 18mm plywood, you can use either. 35 vs 40 is depending on the bearings you use. SBR20UU have a 35mm hole spacing and require a different layout. SCS20UU have a 40mm spacing. The SCS20UUs have a problem clearing the lower rod supports so you'll need at least 3mm spacers on top to help clear. Good luck!

@@WeRideSouth Thanks very much. All clearer now.

Springs seem to be very expensive here in the UK - around £50-90 for 10. How many are actually needed? Is it just 2 as per the video?

@@Ricobass0 just 2.

Bryan, this is a personal preference. You can use a little or as much as makes you comfortable. On my design there is about 3-4 inches fore and 3-4 inches aft movement. about 7-8 inches of travel total.

Mine are 5" I believe, but 6" will work as well.

Here is the link to the ones I got on Amazon: amzn.to/3j79gzP and eBay: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F6pc-Playground-Dodge-Ball-w-Hand-Pump-Easter-Basket-Toy-Fillers-Outdoor-Toys%2F183036807472&campid=5338611310&toolid=10001&customid= I also fixed the sheet to reflect it. Please be aware of the 40mm bearing spacings, I'm working to get another template out to correct this issue.

I have found that 135mm x 27mm x 2mm seem to do the trick.

Hello Tim! There is a bit of discussion about ball placement on the Rocker Plate group and ideally you want the center of the balls to be 6 to 8 inches from the center line of the the pivot point, but it all comes down to feel. The further you put the balls out the more "stiff" the side to side motion becomes. Less stiff the closer in you go. Hope that helps.

@@WeRideSouth Excellent thanks for the answer. Any guidance on the ball position up and down the board? Is over the main weight load (usually the flywheel and rear end of bike) the best position?

@@timdhines I don't think the fore-aft position of the balls has any impact. As a personal preference, I like them to be where the mass is.

137mm x 27mm

that's odd. What wood did you use?

@@WeRideSouth normal 18mm hardwood multiplex. Should be ok. Seems that the weight of trainer have An impact on the bearings i guess? I Will put some fixed washers so to give the springs extra tension. But I think it is the weight on thé bearings that give them a problem to slide. Do i need a metal spacer between bearings and top plate?

Some people use 20mm washers in front and back of each bearing. This should do the trick. As far as getting to the balls you can use whatever inflatable ones you like. Some people drill access holes in the top and put the port facing that hole. I haven't had issues with the pressure in mine fluctuating that badly. I've only ever had to fill them up once or twice in a year.

@@WeRideSouth yes I’ve got washers in there already, but they’re steel. I think I’ll put some thick rubber ones in there too in the summer overhaul. I may put inflation holes in the top platter too at the same time.

It's the same

I don't have any extensive videos of it in use but you can see some quick clips at 0:29

Ah brilliant, dunno how I missed that! I'm hoping to make one here in Ireland.. just trying to source all the bits.. thanks again for the video and for replying to me

@@davidhawkins9206 thanks for watching! Good luck on the build. I ordered my bearings and such from AliExpress. I think AlliedElectronics has a European counterpart for most of the nuts and bolts as well as the spring.

@@WeRideSouth thanks! I've just ordered the linear bearings from aliexpress. Looking forward to building it

Hi David...I’m also in the process of building one in Ireland as well ☺️. Have you been able to source the 20mm rod? I’ve one quote but the supplier will only supply in 3m length so I will have a spare 1.5m.

135mm length, 27mm od, 2mm wire diameter

@@WeRideSouth thanks!

McMaster Carr is a good place to buy all these parts. Might be a little more then Amazon but they will have the parts there.

Pat, the original is a DXF file. It's available in the Google sheets under the dxf column. A rocker plates facebook member made the printable sheets pdf so I cannot speak on the accuracy of that one; however many people in the Facebook group were able to successfully replicate my design with the printable pdf. Hope that helps!

The bottom is more narrow than the top to give more lean angle without increasing the stack height.

www.andrewgrabbs.com/interests/cycling/we-ride-south-diy-rocker-plate-plans/

That'll be fine. It's just going to stick out on the front and back.

@@WeRideSouth Thanks for the reply. it's almost 8 inches shorter than your spec, so you'd just kind of split the difference in the fore/aft position?

@@voldengen that's what I would do. 4 inches out front and 4 out back. If you could cut it that would work too.

You need the risers because the stackheight on the SCS20UU (40mm bearings) is not high enough to clear the lower rod supports. 3mm spacers fixes this.

@@WeRideSouth I am missing something in the measurements: I see the rod ends on your assembly coincide exatly with the top standoffs. But if the rod is 1400mm and the spacing is 467,2+406,40+406,4 the total length is 1280, the rod should be longer thant the standoff length... What am I missing?

@@adireitinho the rod is at minimum 1300mm. The link is 55" as it is the common length that this rod can be bought at in the states.

@@WeRideSouth Excellent Thanks!!!

Good question! that is actually a mistake. I use 16 washers on top and 8 washers on bottom. I'll update the sheet. Thank you!

@@WeRideSouth Thank you for the video, sheet and files. It was not clear to me - from the video - that you inserted the washers in to the countersunk holes - but assume based on your answer to this question that you actually did. Please confirm. Do the washers actually bend to also take the shape of the countersunk holes? Are washers really necessary when lock nuts are used? I would have thought that countersunk nuts in countersunk wooden holes would give the best grip. By the way - on this date the sheet still lists only 16 washers -should it be 16 + 8?

There is a shared document in the Rocker plates group that outlines the measurements. facebook.com/groups/415329188897706/permalink/1113010599129558

@@WeRideSouth thanks Andrew! Great help

I'm working on updating the list on my website. Sorry about the delay!

@@WeRideSouth perfect!!!!

Unfortunately, I don't think you would be able to without a redesign. The front and rear rod stands would be out of range for a 48" rod.

@@WeRideSouth Thanks for your answer, brother. But do you have any idea where you can get the 55" size?because I have looked in all the stores and I cannot find that measure .The other question if I couldn't find the 55" is there a problem that I can do it with 2 units to get the exact measurement of 55 " Thanks again

Max, these should be fully serviceable bearings. If you remove the bearing in question there are two circlips holding it in place on each end. You should be able to remove just one and the bearing portion would slide right out. You can clean, regrease and reinsert it and it should be good. However, I buy mine from AliExpress.

@@WeRideSouth thanks, Andrew. I removed the bearing block and greased it up...working well. The problem I have now is that the rod holder runs the bottom of the top plate and fore/aft movement is restricted. I think I need to cut a grove on the bottom of the top plate to give the top of the rod holder a gap so as to not come into contact with the board. Thx

The plate has resistance from the two inflatable balls. It should never touch to the bottom plate.

I don't see why not

@@WeRideSouth thx

Yes it should. Many people on the Rocker Plate facebook group use them without issue.

@@WeRideSouth without having to add all the numbers on your spreadsheet, Do you know a rough total for the cost? Keeping in mind that the plates could vary depending on how they’re made. Perhaps hardware plus hardware+plates estimate?

@@Tchairdjian I'd say anywhere from 100-300$

@@WeRideSouth never mind. I found your previous answer to another comment.

@@WeRideSouth thank you so much.

The channels are about 2" and you really want them to be anywhere from 6" to 8" from the centerline. The Rocker Plate group on facebook leans toward 6".

@@WeRideSouth Andrew, is this 6-8" from CL of board to CL of cut channel? Thanks

@@karminkuehnel8400 yes

@@karminkuehnel8400 www.andrewgrabbs.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/baseboard.png

@@WeRideSouth Thanks! I had originally just tried to make even spacing between the edge of the cutouts from your V2 desgin and outer edge and this ended up being about 9-9.5" from CL to CL. May see how it feels and if I need, will cut another channel at 6 inches. Thanks for great vid and all the files. Combined this design with one off the rocker plate FB page that included a step up and used Traxxion parts to have specific mount directly to the KICKR to eliminate the need for all the channels in the top plate.

You can seal it with polyurethane, stain it, or put some grip tape on top. The choice is yours!

I'm gonna give away a whole one at 1000 subscribers!

The mounting points would just need to be adjusted. Most of the Tacx Neo users I have seen use velcro straps to secure the trainer in place.

@@WeRideSouth I think you are confusing the TACX NEO trainer with the TACX NEO SMART BIKE that weights around 45kg

@@Nuno_bikes_fun oh yeah my bad. I'll have to do some research on that one. if the footprint fits I imagine it's the same, just finding good mounting points. Let me get back to you on that one.

@@WeRideSouth my main "concern" is the additional weight of the bike...it is at least 30kg

@@Nuno_bikes_fun I have no doubt the rail and wood could carry the load, my only concern is the linear bearings. I'm trying to confirm max load capacity on the bearings, but overall I don't think there would be problems. I see others with full bikes on the same plates. An example would be the ROCKR pro brand in the Rocker Plate FB Group which is the isolator vibration type with a full Tacx Neo Bike on it.

Working on putting something together to release.

@@WeRideSouth I will start to build this week, I will apreciate so much if you put something. Thank you very much!!!

@@WeRideSouth hey! Did you ever put together this template? Thanks so much for the vid and info.

@@da9thrower Yes I did! Here is the link, sorry about the delayed response the template file is in the "DXF File" column. docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/10cFDYMi7-6H0W-D2sdZumRIM4sGxIb8PhTK3zXKIQDw/edit?usp=sharing

@@WeRideSouth This is great. I will try to replicate it. I found the template, but I could not find any measurements. Can you provide at least the overall width and length, so I can scale the rest from the template?

I'm sure it could; however, I do not own one and have not done such. The Lifeline is just two boards. Assuming you can get the mounting holes right it should work just fine.

@@WeRideSouth what stops the rod falling through the standoffs? Does the standoff clamp the rod tight or summat?? Cheers 👍🏿

@@thelmaviaduct yes, the road is clamped into place by the lower stand offs.

@@WeRideSouth nice one. Thanks for the vid and taking time to answer questions 👍🏿👌🏿❤️

@@thelmaviaduct thank you for watching!

unfortunately I am not; however, there are a few companies on the Rocker Plate facebook group that are selling a similar design as mine.

Unfortunately I haven't found anyone yet.

I have not noticed this issue. Are the air up balls in place?

@@WeRideSouth not yet no, just something noticed putting it together on the shaft. I’m guessing if it’s not been an issue the corners of the stays dig in and create their ow little pocket.

@@knockdolian12 I might not be understanding your issue. Any chance you can send a photo?

@@WeRideSouth I can’t see how I can add a photo. Maybe I’m over thinking it. If you look at yours with no top board on the top of the rod supports are flush with the top of the bearing so the top board sits on top of the rod mounts. When the top board rocks the top corner of the rod mount will dig in to the board. Can I add a photo ?

@@knockdolian12 Here is a picture of my clearance. There is no scarring on the top plate from the lower linear rod support. imgur.com/a/jyTR8JG

Rob, the best placement is in the design document. I place them inboard of the two center standoffs and preload them with the linear bearings. I've found this works the best.

​@@WeRideSouth thank you... Thats how I have them by seems to be too much spring compression. Board doesn't glide well.. The linear bearing holes were off on the design and I didn't catch it cause everything else that had been provided was spot on. I had it CNC cut and caught it in assemble so now I'm correcting that. I'll look at the design doc again that you have with the video. Thank you

@@WeRideSouth so I think the spring tension is fine with the placement. I had a bad linear bearing that was causing it to bind under tension. Changed it out and it seems fine. I just need to correct the hole placement for 40mm spacing. Thanks again for all the assistance and the videos. I'll post a picture of my adapation when done. I have a Tacx Neo 2t so I altered the back edge of the top plate and did extend the length a couple inches.

@@robbedrosian228 in the document there are two dxfs one for 35mm and one for 40mm

@@WeRideSouth are you referring to the pictures at the bottom of the parts list or am I missing a document some where

Yes, the top and bottom can be cut from one 4'x8' piece of birch. Also, I have another spring on order, but I cannot confirm it's good yet: www.aliexpress.com/item/32826469668.html

Also, Allied will have 360 in stock in 10 days.

@@WeRideSouth thanks for the quick reply. That aliexpress spring looks good, but 19-30 day delivery is a bit too long.

@@maxvega4217 are you in the states?

@@WeRideSouth yes, Portland, Oregon. Another question, on the top and bottom plate bolts, can I just use the top plate bolts, at 30mm, for the bottom bolts or do I need to buy 40mm as in your note in the spreadsheet? Just trying to save some cash.

Thanks for watching! If you can give me the measurements of the footprint of the trainer I can see if it will fit.

@@WeRideSouth Back leg is 24 1/2 long front leg is 30 1/2 long. just over 19 in from back of back leg to front of the front leg.

www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.roadbikereview.com%2Freviews%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2013%2F01%2FUntitled-3.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.roadbikereview.com%2Fthreads%2Fracermate-computrainer-pro-review.379450%2F&tbnid=ih2qyCQc7kfrjM&vet=12ahUKEwi459iAkpfuAhVb9qwKHS9QAPoQMygJegUIARCyAg..i&docid=1arKAnQXtOneVM&w=700&h=492&q=Computrainer&safe=active&ved=2ahUKEwi459iAkpfuAhVb9qwKHS9QAPoQMygJegUIARCyAg

Above is a link to a pic of the trainer so you can see what im working with. Definitely different from most of the newer stuff out there.

@@kevinsmith5631 can you measure the leg lengths and the distance from the front leg and the back leg?

On my website I linked a pdf document that is printable that has dimensions.

It's in my latest video

@@WeRideSouth Hi, where is the latest video so I can see how to either order these boards or cut my own? When I say "cut my own" I mean ask my brother-in-law who is way more capable of doing something like that.

@@adamnunez7257 All of the latest information can be found on this sheet: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/10cFDYMi7-6H0W-D2sdZumRIM4sGxIb8PhTK3zXKIQDw/edit?usp=sharing The links to the DXF files are located to the right under "Bearing Spacing"

I'm going to take stab at answering this from google translate. The bearing isolator is a different type of rocker plate. I used a simple drill and bit to make the holes in the top plate.

@@WeRideSouth clearly with a drill I mean how to take the distance between one bearing and the other and how to make the holes in the top plate so that they match the holes in the bearings

@@francescobasile2792 once I received my bearings, I measured from center to center on the bearing bolt holes, I believe they were 40mm from side to side as well as top to bottom. Then I made a template and placed them along the center line of the board.. In a more recent video I released the DXF file of my bearing placement based on standoffs/spring placement. This may be something you have sort out if you go with a modified design.

@@WeRideSouth OK! I got it kindly can tell me the width of the upper and lower plate as they are different

@@fr4nz217 all of the dimensions are in this file drive.google.com/file/d/1EALpl87hMyfmO98XJR4iDNzsD3iar7Py/view?usp=sharing

You can use an sbr20uu, the mounting holes are different as they are 35mm x 35mm. I provide a dxf for that.

@@WeRideSouth And I just deliver the DXF file to a CNC company and they will do the rest? :-). Because I cannot open it on my laptop (no cad software).

@@stijnb2645 yes any cnc company should be able to read it.

@@stijnb2645 tacx flux should fit, if you send me the front to back and feet to feet measurements I can confirm it for you.

@@WeRideSouth The Tacx Flux S trainer's footprint measures 67cm long x 64cm wide x 46cm high.

There are countless examples of what you're describing over on the facebook group. I built mine this way so that I could use a Wahoo Kickr Bike on it.

Unfortunately I am unable to ship at the moment. My box supplier is having issues with getting materials to make the boxes so I only have local pick up in the Dallas, TX area.

@@WeRideSouth let me know if that changes and what the cost will be, please! and thanks!

@@leepeacock3099 I sell them for $350 and shipping has been around $125 with bike flights, it's the cheapest I have found.

@@WeRideSouth any updates on shipping? I'm ready to buy one! Lemme know!

@@leepeacock3099 unfortunately I cannot get a hold of any decent birch plywood due to the shortages and the stuff that is available is 100$+ per 5x5 sheet. Not sure when the wood shortage will normalize at this point.

There is a link to the Google sheet document in the description that has all of the information, no cult required! Hope that helps.

Oh, yeah- I don’t have AutoCAD and a couple programs that tried to open the .DXF file with didn’t work. I’ll keep looking. I could use a printable plan sheet. CNC shops are scarce around here, and way too overworked/understaffed now to even consider cutting some birch ply. I have tools. Lots and lots of tools. I’ll get a set of full size plans printed one way or another…. Ugh- getting on my rigid old Kickr now for some pain! :)

And THANKS for the video and plans, parts list, etc. You’re a pretty cool dude!

@@lachlanmclean7182 I'm not home at the moment, but when I get back I'll download the printable ones (they were made by another person) and I'll link them to the sheet.

That would be GREAT! Thank you.

😂😂😂

What was I supposed to explain?

@@WeRideSouth How to build it, decisions made and building tips vs having it all done and assembling it. Guess you pointed out the FB page...thanks

@@emilegoguely4032 I provided a document in the description as to all the parts as well as dxf files to reproduce my design. You can literally print it out a template and cut it yourself, or send it to a CNC company to cut. Also inside the document is an exploded view of the entire build with notes.

You get given a entire design with links, practically a paint by number and you still complain..... you sir are a knob

Always got that one person....