Stoked to hear that! That’s all I can hope for. Thank you for checking it out.

Thank you!

It can be daunting, but rewarding. You just have to want it!

Thanks, Eric!

Thank you, glad it was helpful!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you greatly!

Thank you!

Hey, thank you!

I could get rid of them all but that one sometimes.

Thank you, Miloš!

Btw as you mentioned using jigsaw blades for cutting metal, they really do not work good on fibreglass panel. I tried it once and they got dull so fast… since I did a bit o research I started to use a carbid blades, bimetal blades and some others made for laminates/fibreglass.. I can check it out later on and write up the info here, maybe it could be helpfull to other guys trying their luck with jigsaw :)) I watch the video for the second time already and really enjoying it haha. Thx once again!

They definitely dull quickly! I don’t use one much, so I have not experimented with other blades, but that makes sense since I use a carbide bandsaw blade.

Thank you!

It’s a multi-angle vise by Stanley.

It’s only a matter of time!

@@hydrophilesurfcraft Looking forward to them!

Sam of finflex has cut layers rough to shape and laminated them to reduce waste, etc. He’s also recently been laying up a couple layers of glass into a thin sheet, then cutting those layer by layer and then gluing those “veneers” together to create a similar result. Thanks for digging in!

Obrigada! The fin has already been won, but I appreciate the love and support.

Thank you, yes!

I use a laser cut rubber stamp bought online with white staz-on permanent ink and white Posca pens. The spray I use is Montana gold varnish.

I use Montana gold varnish, and yes, poly is a much more common resin for fins than epoxy.

Thanks! I use a 3d printed tool I’ve been working on with a friend of mine. I’ll have them intermittently available. Here’s a post about them: instagram.com/reel/Cqou9h2LMMK/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

I definitely won’t be able to explain this process in a comment. I *might* do a video about this in the future, but I am not planning one at this time.

If you have calipers(get some if not and you’re making fins) you can measure the thickness of your cloth and use that number to calculate how many layers it will take to reach 9-9.5mm or so. It’s always better to ensure your panel is thicker than the box so you are able to shape it to fit. 6oz single fin panels are about 42-44 layers, 4oz panels are at least 60 layers. You can calculate what you’d need judging by those numbers as well. Good luck!

@@hydrophilesurfcraft Thanks man! Another question: if I would not use the twe colored lay up, like u did, would I still do the lamination in three go's? The obvious answer would be 'yes', since having to take into account the curing time of the resin. But, you know... asking for a friend ;) ps: so how do I win this awesome fin? :)

By the way: since the sawblade on your bandsaw tends to dull very quickly, mayby you could skip sawing the edges of your plate, before cutting the actual fins (assuming that your plate is flat, even at the edges). Just a little something that caught my attention. Cheers!

If I’m doing a solid or uncolored layup, I will lay it all up in one session, with multiple mixes. Generally I won’t mix more than about 40-50oz of slow cure epoxy at once at the very most. If I’m doing a full sized 30”x30” panel, it requires around 4 pots of epoxy that size. You just need to consider your own comfortability and working time with your resin before doing a big mix and having it go off on you before you’re done. Once the glass is laid up and the resin is distributed over a larger surface area, there is less of a risk of exotherm than there was while it was in the bucket. This fin has been given away already via Instagram. Any further giveaways will also be done there, so please follow me if you haven’t. ✌️

@@hydrophilesurfcraft Thanks again, sir!

The flex characteristics are definitely different. Epoxy has a more plastic flex, in a good way I feel. I use Entropy especially for it’s lessened ecological impacts and no odor. It allows me to do this from home without infiltrating my house with fumes.

@@hydrophilesurfcraft Nice, thanks for the reply, please post more tutorial videos. cheers

Never use casting resin. I use entropy CLR and CLS slow cure hardener. I never mix more than 40-50 ounces at once, despite what it may say on the epoxy’s spec sheet, it will go off quicker in a container where the volume is concentrated, especially with CLX. Epoxy takes time, and it is worth it to give yourself that room for error when starting and use slow cure hardener.

@@hydrophilesurfcraft Thank you for reply! it helps a lot to me I mixed it just 1L like 40oz but while I was working it went hardened so fast;; I rekon I need at least 1 hour for working Could I ask how long it takes for layering up in your side? By the way, I will try CLR with slow hardener!! I will keep you posted! Thank you so much

@@user-kq2dl2zz6y 40oz, but with CLX, it will go off much quicker than CLS. If I am doing a full 30”x30” fin panel, I will mix in batches of about 40-50oz of resin, which will get me through about 7-9 layers of cloth and take about 20-25 minutes. Anything beyond that, and you are mixing too much epoxy, in my humble opinion.

I would not let my volume of epoxy dictate what you’re doing. 6oz cloth will require less resin per layer, but your panel will require more layers to be appropriately thick. Likely 40-44

Got it, Thank you! Do you recommend a specific brand of epoxy?

I have the most experience and success with Entropy CLR. It is a worthy investment and they have great resources and guides on their website.

I’m happy to share! I use a table router and 1” spoilboard bit to bring the base close to thickness, then take it the rest of the way with a sanding block I made myself.

@@hydrophilesurfcraft thanks for reply regend!!! table router is made yourself too? I want copy your sanding block!!!

@@user-lk4br8yi7l no, the table router is made by Bosch

oh!I got it! thank a lot really🙏 I'm check it out!

I’m not satisfied with what I have been using, but it’s a spray varnish. It is totally unnecessary, a glass and resin fin needs no sealant, but this step brightens the colors a bit, which is sometimes nice.

That said, the finish from the product I use has been great, but aerosol cans are wasteful and an added environmental problem I don’t need to add to my process.

I sell direct through my website when I have stock available. Some are available now via Pilgrim and Surf Exchange Co. pilgrimsurfsupply.com/search?q=Hydrophile+ surfexchangecompany.com/search?q=hydrophile&options%5Bprefix%5D=last

It’s a spray varnish I’m not sticking with, so I won’t bother divulging what it is. I’d recommend something made for bonding to plastics. The stamp and writing are done with permanent ink, some last longer than others. Depends on how the fins are stored and treated.

@@hydrophilesurfcraft thank you so much for the reply :)

Most people do. I started working with Entropy because it doesn’t inundate my home with toxic fumes. Now, I prefer the flex, strength, and memory of an epoxy fin. Skis and snowboards are made with epoxy for a reason.

Some, yes.

​@@hydrophilesurfcraftreally cool video bro , I'm an hour thorough and excited to try my own

Best of luck!

Most people do

I worked at a record store for a decade. Part of who I am. Audiophile > hydrophile.

@@hydrophilesurfcraftThanks… Had me curious… You just seemed a bit young to even know what one of those was… When I was young… They were everywhere 😂

@@hydrophilesurfcraft Really nice skeg by the way… Do we not call those skegs anymore?

Some people call them skegs, but largely just fins at this point! 👍

Haha I didn’t realize I had a fucking contract. 😂

Yeah?