Nobody has corrected you on how to say it but I must! Desiccant (Dess-i-kent). Thanks for the follow up video! Really appreciate it. I planned on using coiled copper line for my aftercooler (between the compressor and tank) but you showed me those transmission coolers can handle the pressure just fine. Thanks!

Cooling the air back down to ambient before it goes into the tank is probably the best dollar per benefit possible in terms of getting water out of the air.

That’s awesome air man great set up

That’s what I like about you and your channel. You are always thinking about how to improve something.

Built a dryer with a large oil cooler, 12v adapter on a electric radiator fan and a single water trap. Only spent like $150 on everything. Took 300⁰ head temps down to 5⁰ above outside temperature keeping my tanks dry. At the chuck I used the dry crystal trap but after a year its still blue.

I like the idea of cooling the air before it goes into the tank, very smart. I plan on experimenting with a desiccant filter on the air intake to stop the moisture before it goes into the pump as well as your radiator cooling system. Will have the stock air filter first, then the desiccant filter and into the compressor. Will try that first before adding the radiator

Thanks for explaining your build. Hadn’t researched my water problem yet and now I see what causes it. Peace ✌️

Diekessent? Made me laugh out loud. 🤣🤣🤣 Great video though. I really like the radiator and will probably add one to my system. Makes me wonder why they aren’t sold as an option.

Nice system!! Now I know what I am going to do, Thanks for the education.

Great system. Another good video. Keep it up.

Good information John and another great video.

I second the oil cooler! Did that to mine a while back with the water separator in line before going into the tank and as you said, its well worth the investment.

Nice copper work & experimentation to improve your system, Kudos! A few suggestion: #1)Add an electric fan to the oil cooler. The logic is: A 1 inch + gap exists between the flywheel/fan blades & the cage mounted oil cooler & most of the air just goes anound the cooler because the fins resist air flow by design. With a fan pushing air thru the cooler, the cooling efficiency goes up + the extra airflow will cool the pump fins, reducing air discharge temp., further adding to the efficiency. Then flow the comp. air thru the water trap on the tank. The final solution to stop all water in the tank is: #2)Flow the air from the water trap into a Schedule 40 2" dia. × 36" long galvanized pipe, loosely stuffed with stainless steel wool scrub pads. Vertically mount the 2" pipe + a top bell reducer for air inlet & a bottom 2" "T" with bottom drain valve & side air exit to go to the tank inlet/check valve. This 2" vertical pipe is the rest of the magic formula. It provides reduced air velocity (more dwell time) to allow the remaining moisture to grab ahold of the stainless steel wool (coalescing) into droplets that fall into the drain valve area. Now you have air dry enough that No water will accumulate in the tank or lines. Use a desicant & then a particle filter combo At the Point of Use (taken from the wall mounted copper tube thingy because it is not necessary). About the up/down copper tube device: Have you ever seen an automobile cooling radiator made from copper tubes & No fins & No air flow? Or a modern car with solid wood wheels right? All these have been surpassed by surperior technology. For the ultimate engineer designed, hobby sized passive (No refrigerated driers), see Doug Kronemeyer's 3 part KZfaq video series "DIY #9" where he presents, in Part 1, schematics & system design logic & knowledge. Part 2 is in his own shop, looking at each part of his sys. & how & why it works so efficiently. Alright, keep experimenting & learning every day! Peace, Paul from hot & super humid S. Central Tx.. P.S.A shoutout to Bud Stiner, THE Compressor Guru! He has many DIY tutorial repair & diagnostic videos (KZfaq) & offers & ships parts, & local service/repair. Great guy!

Great video friend, God bless your weekend

T job. Makes so much since

Probably cheaper and simpler precooler option is a 5gal bucket of water with a coil of copper pipe in it with an auto drain at the bottom that expels it occasionally.

Thank you for a great really informative video on cooling compressed air! It sounds like something I will do now that I have seen yours. 1 question I have is, How does the radiator cool the air without a fan on it? how does that work? do you need to run electricity for it?

Can you use a temp gun to get the temp on the pump side, then the output side of the radiator pipe after it’s been running for a good long time so it’s nice and hot. Curious to see the difference. My abrasive blasting system keeps getting clogged with moisture

Its' called DES-E-CANT.

My only question is, what are the ends you put on the copper pipe to screw in and feed to the transmission cooler, and how do you install them on the copper pipe? Trying to do a similar setup now for my air compressor for a blasting cabinet. Awesome video btw.

The HF line drier is up to $550...no effort/maintenance except turn it on

I remember the system being upgraded on the wall, that tank mod though, that's ingenious. I need to do that. Can you do a video specifically on the trans radiator mod? Like how to run it, the pulley and fan, e.t.c?

Jo please can you send me a video how i can make that air cooler on your compressor please 😬

wayment ... if I watch this video from 2 years ago about how this drying system has worked for past year ...

That's sounds stupid to me. Why don't you put the cool air not through your drying system first before putting it in the tank? If your drying system is that good then you would get no condensation whatsoever in your tank in the first place, right?