Prone Rider 562 thanks for the props and thanks for subscribing. By no means do i consider myself smater then the average person, just well seasoned and a person who has taken the time to research and educate himself on the finer details. Dont ever be afraid to open your bike up, remember you cant brake whats already broken. Ride safe!

What was going on with your bike? I'm wondering if i have the same issues.

@@curt1star05 For my bike, The throttle position sensor slipped out of timing so it would bog out at around 6k for a split second and then again at 6.5k and up around 8 as well.

Sometimes it works out that way. You go through videos KZfaq channels hoping someone will hit that sweet spot and describe exactly or close to what your experiencing.. in the process you pickup additional knowledge and lock it away for another rainey day.

@@TheChemistDIY Your videos have been helping a lot. Without going too much into it. My bike fell over in a storm. Street was flooded so my bike got water in a bunch of places it shouldn't. Got it to start and ride. At first it was fine. Took it out and in higher gears it maxes out at a certain rpm per gear. I now have an stva code. Because without thinking or knowing exactly what the fuck I am doing...I slightly moved the secondary buttflies with my hand. So I probably destroyed something.

We all have to start somewhere brother and by you getting in there began your venture into learning what your bike is all about. The butterflies aren't that sensitive bro, you are able to move them by finger so no worries there, you didn't mess anything up.. your C28 code is very common for this bike.. and I have a fix for it.. there are three video in my arsenal of repair videos and make sure you see all three of them before going in.. but just so you get a better idea on how to fix you issue here is part two. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rcyli9ph087bmGw.html Remember you can't damage what's already broken, you can only move up from here.. pick yourself up a service manual and read up on your bike.. I usually have links to a few in most of my new videos.. I own two on my bike and looking to get a third.. each has there own way of explaining things..

@@TheChemistDIY oh dude I watched all three of those before even watching this one. And I also appreciate your words of encouragement. Before I knew even how to ride a motorcycle at all I told one of my buddies (owned an 05 gsxr 600 which is funny because he had this issue) that I would want to do as much repairs as I could on my own and learn as much as I could because I like to be self reliant. As soon as I bought my k6 600 I bought a clymers manual and downloaded the oem service manual. I've been delving in the oem for the stva but haven't checked my clymers. I for sure appreciate the time you've taken to respond and all of your videos.

Glad I could help you out brother, thank you for stopping in and commenting. Greatly appreciated

@@TheChemistDIY I also wanted to add.. I had trouble with the resistance measuments.. however I heard a clicking noise when I spun it.. after my new tps arrived it was smooth.. not clicking...

Be sure to subscribe brother, tons more information in my arsonal of videos that will get you up and running in no time.

Here is the normal operation of the secondary butterflies. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rcyli9ph087bmGw.html If its not operating like this then you have an issue with the STVA.

Eww, the clicking usually means its toast and the fact that its not moving the flies confirms that..

Sorry to get back so late, did u resolve this issue. Most who report this sensory is usually resolve it be either cleaning the clutch switch and or kick stand switch contacts.. for some reason or another the ECM is not seeing the engagement and generating a false FI.. thats if the bike is running normally.. which u didnt state.

I would look into the fuel delivery first. Look in the tank for rust, checking the fuel pump and filter..and checking fuel pressure and correct fuel delivery.. and forward and backward flushing the injectors.. As for the TPS, it's pretty simple to replace, just a pain to sync. Speaking of syncing, make sure to put the bike in dealer as see if the indicator is sitting mid point -OO if it's not then adjust the TPS so that it does.. this is where I would first start.. then move to fuel delivery..

So what happened ?

What up Charlie I know exactly the sound your speaking of (STVA gearing), I have a cousin who has the same issues on his 03 and unfortunately there's not much you can do aside from buying a whole new STVA. Here is what the STVA should do / act like during key turn to start. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rcyli9ph087bmGw.html If yours is not looking/sounding like this then you have an issue. While we have never cracked open my cousins STVA to see (since no code thrown and it still works) I'm assuming why it makes that noise is the plastic gears within are slipping (teeth warn or broken) or the stepper motor is dirty or going bad causing it to skip step's. I would do this: 1. Crack open STVA and inspect gears. 2. Crack open stepper motor inspect and clean. 3. Clean/Lube Butterfly linkage. Remember, that little motor and plastic gearing has to move the linkage bar and plates under heaving suction. Big job considering if you put your hand over while the bike is running your hand gets immediately sucked in. So the more smoothly this system works the less strain it is on the stepper motor. Hope that helps

Did this work for you ?

@@aniayae I didn’t end up trying it, I found a cheap replacement STPS sensor on eBay and simply just swapped it out and was good, error went away.

It can be called that i suppose. Ya that price is a rip off when you can buy a complete throttle body with actuator for far less on ebay. The dealership doesn't sell the just the actuator by itself, instead they sell you the whole throttle body assembly wich come with the STVA. Try the fix and see if it works first before going any other route.

Put the bike in dealer mode and check the TPS level at idle, should look like this -00, then see which way the level floats when you give it WOT. this way _00 or does it move to the top.. at idle it should read -00, if not, it needs adjusting.. thats where I would start. It's very rare for a TPS to go bad but it can happen. I know you just purchased a new fuel pump but did you check to see if you have the proper fuel delivery and fuel pressure or did you just assume it's good because it's new. After that I would move to my injectors and make sure I have forward and backwards flush them to ensure they're not dirty. Also check the spray pattern, is it a nice V or does it just dribble out.. lol. Another thing that most people overlook are spark plugs. I would start with a fresh new batch that are properly gapped. Be sure to test your spark on each pack. I once had a spark plug that was loose in the number one cylinder that was causing me issues in the mid to top end range. It wasn't till I got in there to install new plugs to that I noticed the plug was loose and was the issue. Lots to cover for problems like this.

Sorry brother, cant help you. I'm not familiar with..

Yes this is the kickstand switch. A jumper is usually placed on the harness side by a rider to bypass the kill safety feature of starting bike in gear and being able to ride with the kickstand down. It's usually done for two reasons... Track racing and or if the switch goes bad you are still able to ride..

Wish I could help you out but that information I do not know. You could crack open the service manual for both and perform a comparison. Aside from the physical aspect, you would also need to consider upper and lower resistances levels as well as voltage input.

It could be your kickstand sensor. Make sure your springs on your kickstand are strong. I had that issue where the rpm would just drop to 0. Kickstand would drop alittle more than it should so I got a new spring and it never did it again

Hey Derik, thanks for joining the channel. In order to troubleshoot your issue I'm going to need a bit more information (details are everything!!!). You say the issue occurs during high RPM, well does this happen if the bike is parked and in neutral and you rev the rpms up? if so then we can exclude drive train (Tranny). If it happens only during a ride then we need to also think about the drive train when trying to diagnose. Here are some questions you should asking yourself to diagnose: Does this happen if the bike is parked and in neutral. Can I rev the RPMS up and reproduce the problem. Is this at a specific RPM that the spudder or bogging occurs, say 7000k or in the range of 5000k-7000k rpms. Is it sporadic (only happens sometimes)(if so what are the ALL the conditions like) Is the bike at a certain temperature when this happens? Is it hot out or cold out, (climate issue) Is it in a specific gear that this happens (2nd, 3rd, 4th ..ect) is it in a specific gear at a certain RPM range (2nd gear @ 7000k rpms). When was the last time I adjusted the Clutch/when was the last time i replaced the clutch. Is the chain tight, when was the last time I changed the chain, what do the sprocket teeth look like ( is this happening because the chain is jumping teeth) It's very rare BUT NOT IMPOSSIBLE that its a TPS issue. you've changed out a lot of parts that I would imagine could cause this issue. but sometimes it maybe something so small that were overlooking like dirty injectors, fuel lines, or gas tank. when you removed the fuel pump was the filter very dirty. if it was did you look inside the gas tank for rust and other junk because what's inside the tank could possible be in the rest of the fuel system, therefore we would need to clean the entire system from beginning to end,... see where I'm going with this? (details)

james moreno Hello James, It does it in any gear , but only on high revs maybe around 8k-10k, but on neutral it is fine when I rev it up, but I still did not try to rev it up slowly to see if it acts up on neutral, the sound that you describe on this video sounds exactly the same my bike makes, the fuel filter was normal state for its years in the tank when I replaced it, no rust and or debris that would harm the fuel lines, I was thinking after watching this video it was the TPS, or maybe I can get a fuel injection cleaner, and or my power commander? As for the sprocket teeth it is still fine no issues on it. Chain is kept maintained and no jumping.

@@dreyes001 ok so now were getting somewhere. At the time of this video i was experiencing a quick blurp/cutout when climbing up the rpm rang fast, when i wasnt so hard on the throttle and rolled through my gears nice and calmly (not being a speed demon) the problem wasnt there. Does this occur when your hard on the throttle or also when your riding normally? Just like you i replaced a shit ton of things thinking it was either a clog or some electrical issue that was causing a cut out. What i came to find out was that it was my dogs within the tranny was slipping because the interlocking cogs were no longer square but rounded due to hard shifting. This was a hard issue to diagnose because you cant simply crack open the tranny and take a look for rounded dog teeth. Shortly after replacing all l these parts to try and solve the blurp my tranny went on the freeway confirming that it was the dogs or a tranny issue. Personally i dont know your riding style or shifting habbits or if your the first owner tobhow the previous owner rode it but this may be your issue, but only you can confirm this. Image of a bad dog: goo.gl/images/GTZoMu Two things that i would do at this point is disconnect the power commander and put the bike back to stock to rule out it being the issue (take it for a ride and see) If that didn't work, Secondly i would then swap the TPS and STPS (they should be the same part). Swaping is a bit of a pain because you have to recalibrate them. Last ditch effort would be to inspect your clutch and clutch basket. Your looking for worn plates on the clutch pack and bad teeth on the basket and basket hub. Since your bike is having this issue at a certain rpm range im ruling out a fuel delivery issue. If your tank,lines, and injectors were dirty, the bike would run like shit no matter what rmp you were in. Since it happens under high load (7k and above rpm) this has my mind moving more towards friction or parts under stress due to torque.

and my problem :( C29 Error

@@roudeep you can find secondary throttle position sensor all day long on ebay, rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F262906038373

Well no.. you push the connector in and the tab on the connector locks to the mating receiving connector. When releasing your just push on the tab and pull to slide the male connector out.

Most bogging issues have to do with the lack of one of the 3 major components of combustion.. Fuel, Air and spark.. sounds to me like your lacking one.. have you checked each and are you throwing any codes.. Sometimes it's as simple as a bad plug or grounding out or loose coil pack..dive deeper and it can be a bad fuel pump or dirty injectors.. your researching and commenting on the TPS video.. what makes you think it's the TPS..

No it can't, but I'm not sure why that even matters with your engine swap. You have a 750 engine and 1995 - 600 frame that your dropping it in to, obviously with some slight frame modification.. But Im not understanding how the frame is hindering your installation if you have a complete 750 engine and 750 ECM. All your doing is moding the frame to fit the engine, connecting the gas tank , headers, and exhaust, and connecting a throttle cable.. All the TPS does is turn your manual throttle cable into an electrical signal. Now if you don't have the 750 ECM and are trying to retrofit the 95 ECM to the 750 engine this is not going to work and your causing yourself more headache then its worth. Get the 750 wiring harness and 750 ECM and be done with it.. eBay has all this cheap enough. I always keep a spare harness, ECM, stator and RR on shelf, You never know when something is going to go wrong and I don't want waste time or be pressured to buy at higher prices because my bike is down. We are talking about an 18 year old bike here.. parts will soonbe, if not already scarce. Hope that Helps

Hugo, from what I know the STPS is non repairable. I thought the same when I was experiencing an issue with my bike, but after looking at it's construction I would have had to demolish the unit just to get in it, so I don't advise. Before going out and buying another STPS make sure you've done all your checks to insure this is the problem. Most of the time all problems with secondary butterfly movements has to do with the STVA or mechanical parts associated with it. Is your bike throwing out the C29 code which is the STPS? One thing to note, the TPS and STPS are the same part, and I do believe I have one or two laying around the Lab if your interested in buying. Let me know.

Hey James, thanks for your reply. I just orderd the sensor online. It is indeed the same part. The part name is 13580-29G00. Hopefully this will solve the problem.

hugoK1000 awesome bro, what was the price for the part? BE sure to keep us posted for those in the future looking for help as well.

ASSPHALT_ASSAULT - I don't think the problem is with your TPS from what you have described. What i do think it could possibly be is your maping on the PC3. Not knowing what map you have loaded or any other features my first thought is that this may be the launch on your PC3. Not knowing what model (early/late) pc you have the early modles had a few wire issues where ground needed to be connected to the ground of the tps and not the batt, another was the signal wire. What i recommend is that you head over to PC website and look over the FAQs or better yet call them and maybe they can help you dial it in. Keep me posted www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Support/powercommander_faqs.aspx

Yes, I replaced the part and the error code is gone! The part costed me 88 euro (including shipping) I believe the first and the secondary TPS are the exact same part. In theory I think it should be possible to swap them around them so you can see if it's broken of not. Also the readings on my multimeter in resistance directly on the part where different between the broken one and a new one.

Ya I still have it.. although I dont have the measurement of the line or know which gas line your referring too. Gas Tank to disconnect link/ link to fuel rail..ect

Yes I’m talking about the line from the fuel pump to the fuel rail

If you haven't done so already, check your spark plugs, see if there white in color at the electrodes. This will tell you if your running lean or not. 60% of the time its because of a bad spark plug, so what u should be asking yourself was when was the last time you changed them, and did you check for correct gaping (.028-.031 i believe). Secondly, when was the last time you did a fuel pump test to see if your putting out the correct amount of fuel and fuel pressure to the injectors, while were on the subject of injectors, when was the last time you cleaned them (frwd & back flush). Without much detail this is the best advice i can give you to start.

james moreno new plugs new stva new fuel pump new tps new computer no f1 light on

Does this occur in a specific gear at that RPM range or dose it do it in all gears at 6-7k?

james moreno well just found out plugs wer bad put new ones in bike ran good then Throw code 24 25 39 two ignition coils and injector 4 high end but bike use to stay stuck at 10k rpms

@@r6moto716 Does bike now go past 10k rpm? did changing the plugs help?

Are you speaking of the TPS or did you mean the STPS. Bogging at low rpms i would also look into poor spark (bad plug or plugs) and or dirty injectors to rule out the other components the TPS or STPS controls through the map (ECM) programming.

@@TheChemistDIY plz can you help me again i have cleaned fuel filter to injecters, new spark plugs but bike is still bogging in low rpm i have replaced my throttle position sensor thinking it was that but bike is the same but unpluging the tsp it runs good so what controlls the tps?what would you look at?

@@mattmiles259 ok so look at this video and see if your butterflies are operating as they should with the TPS and STPS connected. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rcyli9ph087bmGw.html If after revving a few times they are moving as expected then its not going to be a TPS/STPS issue because remember all they tps does is tell the ecm where the butterfly (gold butterflies) is at and to increase/decrease air to fuel ratio, which in turn moves the STPS (secondary butterflies) open or closed. Your issue may be a fuel delivery which means low fuel pressure or fuel pump not working correctly (dirty or bad). You would need to perform that test with a fuel pressure regulator and perform the fuel pump test. Also Put the bike in dealer mode and see if your getting any hidden errors codes on the cluster. Also when u put in dealer mode where is the needle at on the cluster.. in the middle, up top, or down low? I know you said you changed out the TPS but did you put the bike in dealer mode or Diagnostic mode and adjust the TPS properly. The level indicator should look like this -00 (line is dead center). if its above or below you need to adjust the TPS/STSP.

Sorry brother, im not understanding your question? Thromba?

@@TheChemistDIY My bike idles rough and fluctuates Can moving the tps adjust the idle speed to make it run smoother.

Try the following: 1) Put the bike in dealer mode and check TPS level is dead center at idle. If not then correct with adjustment. 2). OEM idle is 1200rpms, I find this to be a little low.. set to 1300rpms at idle. 3) inspect, clean, and or replace spark plugs. 4) Clean Air Filter 5) Drop in a bottle of sea foam in the gas and oil tanks.. 1/2 & 1/2... 6) Smell the exhaust while running.. if it smells like 1962 VW bug or hot rod.. time to change the oil.. Congrats.. you just did a tune up..lol.. hope that helps ya out.. works for me every time

Can it? Yes.. but really anything can be said to do the same about any component on the bike. You have to look at things in the broader sense: A popular explanation of how a four stroke engine works is: Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. The engine sucks in a mixture of fuel and air, then squeezes it together (compresses it), then it burns / explodes that with a bang, and finally it blows out the exhaust. So what part does the TPS do.. well it's part of the SUCK because without the correct air intake the bike is not going to start. The TPS(s) controls your butterflies which allows the correct amount air to come in during start and ride. All this is being controlled by your ECU "Mapping" which is basically like a receiver.. collecting data from its sensors (sensors), comparing it to a list (map), and then sending out what you need to keep the bike alive. During the SUCK you also have to have the correct amount of fuel. Without fuel you won't get to BANG.. SPEAKIN OF BANG! .. what lights your fire 🔥.. yup... That's right, Spark! Without a healthy flame You're basically trying to light a firework in the wind with a wet match stick.. not going to happen.. Probably not the answer you want to hear but when you put all those principles together You get an idea of what you need to check in order to get your bike to turn over and run.

Negative. misfires is going to be your common air/fuel/spark/timing related issues.

What up bro, if you would have told me in one gear under load I would say the tranny dog was bad and slipping out of gear, but since you mentioned in every gear and at a certain RPM (7-8k RPM) I'm going to say it's your STVA.. Cutouts are hard to diagnose, could be many things but since this has happen to me more often then other problems I would start here. Check out my C28 code fix video below. FYI, you don't need to have the code present for this problem to occur, it could be on its way but not fully there yet.. I experienced this 2 months ago and redid the welds and it fixed the problem. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rcyli9ph087bmGw.html

james moreno preciate the help bro. I just posted a video on my channel about it. If u could check it out I’d appreciate ur feedback

I believe you're referring to the green three prong triangular shape connector, this is your side stand switch.. aka kick stand.. some riders will disconnect and jump bypass this so you can start the bike with the kickstand down (safety feature). Also some times the side stand will become fouled up and cause the bike to cut out in mid ride and you would need to bypass untill you get a replacement In order to continue riding. Hope that answers ur question..

Need more information then that brother.. What gears/any FI light/funny smells/how longhas been doing/all of a sudden or building up to/started after any mods.. ect.. have to get into the fine details.. Have you dones a tune up.. Filter, plugs , oil.. My first go to would be pulling the plugs and seeing their condition.. this tell you how the bikes burning your fuel .. (White, brown, blk) check the tank for rust or dirty Run a fuel delivery test to see if the correct amount is getting out/fuel pressure test after that.. could be a bad fuel pump or the filter is dirty.. So many things to check with just saying I'm bogging at 8K rmps.. we need to narrow it down.

The C14 code thrown is your tip over sensor according to the service manual. Testing values for this is .2 < >4.8 .. hope that helps

@@TheChemistDIY found the error, it was on the main harness plug with ECU, loose connector

Nice.. good find. Thanks for coming back and sharing to help others out.

What year is your GSXR?

james moreno 2006 gsxr 600 , I bought the o2 sensor eleminator but cant find the coupler

This a euro gsxr?..

@@andresgmz210 so i downloaded a pdf copy of the service manual and it doesnt show the connector either but given the length of the leash on the H02 sensor it cant be far from the bung hole.

Do you know why my fuel pump fuse keep blowing

They are set from the factory and should never be messed with unless you know what you are doing and have the proper vacuum tool to make the fine incremental adjustments if they are off.. This is the tool you need and without it, you will never get your bike to run right if at all. amzn.to/3QvVUO9 The screws may have seemed to be in there close to the bottom but that's how sensitive the opening is.. the throttle body vacuum screws could be just millimeters of bottoming out and you would think they are fully closed but that tiny mm gap is what it takes to make your bike idel right.. Fastest and quickest way to handle this is to take it to a shop... Or you can dig down deep, buy the tool, eat the down time and learn how to do yourself..

@@TheChemistDIYso there isn't like a stock specific way that they should be, and are all 4 screws going to be the same or does each one differ? thank you so much for all the help!

Brother I know you want to here the answer you want to hear.. but no.. this is not a one size fits all type of fix.. the 4 screws are specific for each stack and the cylinder it sits over to run properly. Yes you can swap the throttle body stack (head) out and have it run with those settings.. will it run right.. NO.. because it's not tuned to YOUR ENGINE. You want to hear turn the screws out so many turns and your bike will be running, and from there fine tune by ear once its idling.. not going to happen.. at least from me brother.. no one keeps track of those turns because they never mess with them and if they do.. then they have the vacuum tool.. The only way to find out those specific number of turns to get your bike to an idling point is to ask a Dyno Turner.. if he's cool and has ever brought those screws up from zero.. he could tell you. If you do happen to find one and he does tell you the answer, come back and let me know I would be curious to know myself

@@TheChemistDIY I know one guy, if he can't help I'll still look around, thank you, and I will get back to you

The Rider, im taking it that code for your bike being thrown is the TPS correct, and you have confirmed this in your manual? If I had more information I could point u in the right direction. BUT basically electronic parts pretty much operate the same. The TPS has a base ohms value when closed and a max vale at WOT, if yours falls within specs when testing then you should be good. Like I said, i would need more information on the problem you are experiencing in order to set you on the correct inspection path.

james moreno yes my manual says 3000rpm and back to 0 every 2 sec and says its between 4kohm -6kohm and mine is 6.5 kohm its sounds like 3 cylinderes working the tps does that?

The Rider, ok so the TPS takes a mechanical movement and turns it into an electrical value. Does is it have with your cylinders, well to a point.. it tells the ECM the positioning of the butterflies (air) and the ECM thus supplies the correct fuel trim to the injectors. If the bike feels like it's onlynrunning on 3 cyclender you may want to check spark, or your injectors.

james moreno but mine doesnt have injectores but the tps doesnt sent signal to the cdi and the cdi sends to the ignition coils? So if the tps its broken sends wrong signal to ignition coils so it looks bad spark Wright?

The Rider, YES that's how it works. It's rear for the TPS to go bad but it is possible, it could have a dead spot within it causing lose of signal. Given the age of the bike and not knowing if it has ever been changed it could be worn, also the fact that it's throwing the FI code would lead me to believe this to be the issue. What would does the adjustment level look like.. is it in the center --> -C00

Sounds like a faulty thermostat giving you the over heat issue, ive had the samenin the past. This to me would be my first place to go as it is a cheap and easy fix.. try this video from my arsenal of DIYs and let me know how it goes. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p96Gibh_t76qp2w.html

I have 2014 gszr 1000. My problem is bike starts but only stays running for about 10 seconds and won’t fire up again. Some one said tps. But now watching this i don’t think it can be.

@@deniscarp9637 to rull out the tip over sensor being the issue why dont you try bypassing it first. Im not sure if the resistors used are the same for your year as they are for the older 1000 but take trip over to Dark Nights KZfaq page and review how he bypassed his. Its all about process of elimination. Come back and us know how it went if you decided to try. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/acuArNmXmL6seZ8.html

You need to be more specific brother... middle at what RPM?.. begins to move at what rpm?..what direction is it moving in what rpm.. answer s are in the your details...

Wen I turn the bike on the line is in the center and the line never moves even wen I pull on the throttle I'll resend the video I took of my bike with the -coo on it

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/octgZbCSmp-tY58.html

@@chucky-zr6dz ok seen the video.. so the manual doesnt say weather the needle should float upon rev. Normally it does float up when you rev the bike up or at least mine does. Take the bike out for a ride and get your rpms up, leave it in dealer mode to watch the needles movements (upor down).. see if you throw a code.. if you dont then your good, also feel for bikes performance in the power bands..

Thank you I just turned it back on and slowly reved it and it floated up then came back down to center and while I rev her up it felt smoother was breaking up before so Friday wen it's nice here in my I'm taking her out to work thanks again

Ya it's a bitch to get to mine as well, you need really thin tools for adjustments.

@@TheChemistDIY ya me n my buddy are gonna make a tool but was still wondering why everyone else has theirs right there n mine tucked behind frame. Weird

@@PopeDPG ya that is odd bro. I would be interested in seeing a picture of that.. email if you can.. Not sure if your the 2nd or third owner but may the engine was swapped with either a larger or smaller CC and this was the result.. check to see if the VIN on the engine match the one on the framework.. jamesmorenojr@gmail.com

unpopular celebrity , all is good. There are no codes being thrown, you want to see this. It's when see numbers after the C is when u have an issue

james moreno ok cool thanks. But now that line that I have at the bottom of the C should be in the middle correct.

Correct, dial it in to the center position and u should be good to go.

james moreno ok thanks.

james moreno yeah I did get it in the middle just went took it up the street it's still like bogging off when I try to nail it I'm thinking fuel issues something along those lines.

Are u using the new gas? Have you checked the tank for rust? Have you test fuel pressure and volume? Have you checked the sparkplugs? You Have to start with the basics engine go troubleshooting before moving on to components.

@@TheChemistDIY I have done all of the above except for fuel pressure. Fuel doesn't seem like an issue although I may be wrong. I'm going to check compression tomorrow. Also, I noticed today that when I close the throttle or roll the bike backwards the engine stalls as well.

@@StrongLykOx what are the color of your plugs..?

@@TheChemistDIY they were dark brown, if I roll the throttle closed it stalls as well.

@@StrongLykOx yes, 3 main things happen when rolling on the throttle. Air, fuel, and spark are changed.. to much or to little will cause the bike to stall. The sparkplugs are a great story teller of what could be possible wrong in these 3 main categories.. im sure you know this. Take a look at this color chart and tell me the degree to where your sparks are at so we can identify the next place to troubleshoot. www.lazerhelmets.com/lean-spark-plug-chart/ Dark usually means to rich and light usually means to lean. So with all that said the bike does idle on its own right? If not for how long will it stay one. Dose you STVA work and can you see the 1st and secondary flys move ?

What's up brother, just so you know the good book has a typo for the closed value.. it should read 1.6 closed and 4.5 open. The 1.6 is approximate and not set in stone.. so you should be good

@@TheChemistDIY I set STPS to 1.6 kOHM on closed, but now I have over 5 open, and it should be 4.5 according to the instructions.

@@kawosz90 remember these are approximate values, they may differ. Even though the book says 1.6 - 4.5 my values came out to be 1.8-4.9, almost 5 kohms!. As long as you have the beginning value set you should be good if the ending value travels higher.. let me ask you.. what problem are you having? Have you taken the bike out for a test ride with the new adjustment? Is there a code being thrown with the new adjustment?

@@TheChemistDIY I had it so that I screwed it tightly at high speed rpm, it was error (C028) I replaced the STVA, set it to a little lower value in STPS and it's now good...

The quick blurp or sudden loss of power ended up being bad or warn-out dogs in the transmission. It was most noticeable in second gear under acceleration. The edges of the dogs were rounded rather than square, this would cause the dog to slip out of place and then catch again.. thus a quick blurp and sudden loss of power until it engaged again.

Combustion needs three things spark, fuel, air. You have to inspect each one of these systems thoroughly. Start by pulling your spark plugs and taking a look at them. What condition are they in.? Are they fouled with oil or are they white. Speaking of spark plugs when was the last time you changed them?

@@TheChemistDIY I changed the spark plugs two days ago

I think the problem is air related but I do not know what to check, maybe the tps or stps?

@@juandrefourie4339 perfect, you're on the right track. What color will your spark plugs. The color of your spark looks is going to tell you how your bike is running. Black your bike is running too rich and not getting enough air. White your spark plugs are telling you that you are running too lame, the ladder..

@@TheChemistDIY the spark plugs were back, but we just ecu flashed the bike to see if maybe the computer could say what the problem is, so I don't think the bike is running rich anymore

Code 00 means no defective part. Find a forum for your bike and search there for more info.

Daniel Fratczak sorry i didnt get back to you, just seeing ur post now, yes 00 means there is no error. so my question to you u is, what problem are u trying to fix. if its just the fact that ur seeing 00 while in dealer mode then u have no issue, thats the way it supposed to be

Sounds like the STVA... But usually this is accompanied with a FI light, although not always.. the bike goes into limp home mode to save itself from further damage.. 7k is usually the RPM range where it will limit you and basically keep you at 60-70 mph no matter how much throttle you give it.

Brian Wittenbach - Boggs could be a couple of things. bad spark plugs, bad or dirty injector(s) or poor fuel pressure due to dirty fuel filter or bad/malfunctioning fuel pump. My starting point suggestions would be to change the plugs with a fresh set, but before you do pull the negative terminal off the battery to rest the ECM and leave off while you do the plugs. This is the easiest and cheapest route to begin at. i had a bog down issue 2 weeks ago, when i got the rpms up to 4k in neutral and held their the rpms would start climbing on there own. when i drove it the bike would bog in all gears and would shake on take off. turnd out to be spark plug #1 was bad.

ok I will try that and keep you updated on the results. When I do remove the plugs is there anything I should be looking for as far as condition of the plugs much like a normal vehicle?

Brian Wittenbach - yes, same as cars (white/black or normal). This tells u a great deal how the bike is running (lean/rich). keep me posted..

Brian Wittenbach o ya, while you have the tank up, inspect your all lines for cracks as well. this could also cause ur issue

Are you referring to the fuel lines?

Efrain Aguilar check out my other video on how to resistance test the TPS if you feel that's the proplem. I would also looking into cleaning out the injectors, taking a look into the gas tank and fuel pump to see if you have rust and possibly cleaning out the fuel filter and testing fuel pressure.

james moreno . yes thanks. i already replaced fuel pump. coils. dpark plugs. i ohmed the sensor and got 1.3 ohms when throttle closed. and 3.5 ohms when fully opened. manual calls for 4.5 when fully opened. symptoms gradually got worse. it felt like it was missing.like not enough fuel. little by little it got worse. i was able to open throttle and go slow and it take off fast. it gradually got to hesitating like crazy. it cant be anything else cause it would not make sense. thanks

Efrain Aguilar does the busa have STVA and STPS attach to it like the 04-05 750? tried to research but can't find anything

james moreno . only has tps.

i kept getting c21 code. meaning tps adjustment. i kept adjusting but kept doing the same. i finally ohmed it just like you did. mine reads 3.5 fully opened.

Yes u can.. it's called STVA delete.. buy why would you.. you lose bottom end performance (slower launch) and warm up from cold start takes longer.

If your asking if the TPS and the STPS are the same... Yes they are. You could techanlly swap them and it work just the same after setting the correct placemement.

@@TheChemistDIY sweet yeah cause I just bought the one that's on the top still fi and the red light is on I positioned the one on the bottom to where I got the line in the middle everything is still on so I'm thinking that ones bad I did have this weird noise when turning the key on coming out of the one I replaced but that noise is gone sounds better but wasn't sure if I could buy the same sensor I just bought and use it for the one below

​@@mackenzieharmon826what code is being thrown by the ECU?

@@TheChemistDIY it was c29 but I put that first sensor in and now it's c00 with the paper clip but the fi and the red light is still on

@@mackenzieharmon826 it shouldn't be possible to have a FI light on and code that reads nothing wrong (-C00).. try pulling the battery off for a few minutes and reconnecting... yes I know the ECU doesn't hold power when the key is off.. but then again you shouldn't have a FI light on with code of 00.. lol.

Well c29 is the Secondary TPS.. have you tried cleaning the contacts in the connector and STPS.. could be something that simple.. you can also swap TPSs to make sure there functioning.. correctly but it's a bit of a pain to calibrate..

No one said it was going to be a thriller... just informative.. lol

@@TheChemistDIY Good stuff. It does what it says on the tin for sure. Once I learned what I needed I had a nice nap ha ha. My 03 Suzuki SV650 s developed a momentary blip on acceleration after two hours of riding on the weekend.

@@SwampCityRadio1974 any specific gear or does it happens in all gears?

@@TheChemistDIY Only happened on two occasions. It was in second as I was accelerating heavily to merge onto a highway and once again at idle half an hour later there was a sudden "cut in revs". It was after two hours of riding on bumpy and dusty roads. I had recently installed a 12 volt accessory socket with fuse and switch. I disconnected it today in case there was a loose connection in the switch and no further occurrences of the "blip" so far.

Found the cause I think. The battery terminal bolt was loose, not the one that holds the ring end cables on to the terminal but the one that bolts the terminal to the battery. In the mean time my clutch switch has carked it and clutch is creeping, ha ha.

Well , judging from your _C00 your TPS needs adjustment.. it should read -C00. So for my gen suzuki (k5) we don't have a C40 code.. I actually had to look in the bible to see because it didn't sound familiar and nope! I was right C32, 33,34,35, 41, 42. So I did a little research on the forums and Wala C40 is your ISC (idle speed control) valve. Take a look at this link and read through it's entirety and see if the fix works for you. This information is a bit old (2009) but it may have the answer to your problem. Please Be sure to come back and post if it resolved your issue.. the more information we have on this channel of problem related issues and fixes the better, even if we're not the same Gen. Good luck! www.gixxer.com/threads/wtf-is-c40-code.238985/

Also, I see that a lot of people are mentioning that it has to do with the clutch switch. So be sure to take note of that and inspect the clutch switch for proper contact. Many of them are having this issue after changing out the levers but if you haven't changed yours out still looking to this. www.gixxer.com/threads/c40-fi-error-code.677217/

@@TheChemistDIY Thank you very much

@@TheChemistDIY Now that I have modified the wiring system, this bike has a quick-chip code C40 in the manual. Related to the TPS system, I lost it, I noticed that C00 is normal, and after a while it rode on the Fi light, which is funny, it came up with the code again, C40.

Modified the wiring, what for and why? Lost it! Lost what.. the TPS? YES -C00 is the code for the bike is running normal. The tick mark next to the -C is your TPS setting and should always be in the middle at idle if your TPS is set correctly. What is the year make and model of your bike? What happen to the bike that lead to this.? Your bike should be idling at around 1300 rpms with a smooth idle. If it's not, what are the symptoms?

Cut-out issues can be a bitch to solve. In your first video pause I noticed that there was a CHECK or F1 code being thrown but I couldn't see what code that was.. please tell me (C11,C12,C14, C28, C29, C31,C41... ?). All the previously mentioned codes have to do with sensory issues of faulty parts that can cause cutout.. So like I said, hard to diagnose since there are so many in play. Since the issue seems to occurs while on the throttle and the RPM (tac) not being displayed while at idle.. but yet no rough idle.. I'm thinking TPS or STPS (C14,C29) which is your throttle signal. This is where I would start. I had a cutout issue a few months back and it ended up being a bad kickstand switch. when I hit a bump or a rough patch in the road the kickstand would lose contact with the switch just enough to cut the bikes power out for a quick second.. This through codes of C32, C33, C34, C35 which is the injectors.. because thats whats suppose to happen.. kick stand goes down and cuts fuel off to the engine.. safety feature, but the ECU doesnt know any different.. it just knows that there is a signal missing and that signal is coming from the injectors so it throws those codes. Below is a link to my new website which houses all my KZfaq video in an easy to find categorized location (most will be maintenance), the link below is specifically to the page where I discuss how to test the TPS and STPS for dead spots. Not a sure fire way but will give you some insight on how to perform the test if you feel this is your issue. Lock in my site as I have a ton of DIYs for most issues you will experience. Keep me posted... www.thechemistdiy.com/2021/01/testing-tps-for-dead-spots-using.html

@@TheChemistDIY thank you so much! Have side sand switch and TPS sensor, and new kick stand springs on order. Will let you know the results soon after I get parts in.

@@curt1star05 Looks like your on the right track brother. good luck to ya!