UPDATED GRAPHS with the 5020 blower fan: Google Drive - bit.ly/5020_CHARTS Imgur - imgur.com/a/6oUTb05 For people who are concerned about the different brand performances of the fans, I can say that these tested fans were "generic" types like Gdstime, MX, Usongshine, etc. Their rotor fin designs are basically identical. The main difference is the RPM at which the fans run. That is why in the graphs on each fan performance line you can see the dots, they indicate increments of RPM of 1k (except the 7530fan). So as the designs are the same the most important factor of performance is RPM and the generic-fan-type brand doesn't really matter for this aspect. If you want better-optimized blower fans search for Delta, Sunon, Sanyo Denki, Mechatronics Fan Group, and others. They will perform better when compared at the same RPM but don't expect miracles like 50% better performance and 50% lower noise. Hopefully, this answers the question if you had one.

The interesting thing about videos about fans is that when the video is really good it can turn yourself into a fan.

Finally, I have been looking for this comparison for a long time.

I love your videos so much ❤❤. They are really interesting and thank you for the work you put into into benchmarking!

Im running a Neptune 3 pro and one of the fans has a pinched wire and was causing thermal runaway when the fans turned on. So I printed the Wind Warden upgrade and snagged some 5015 fans and Im glad to see I made the right choice! I print a lot with a .6 mm nozzle and I have been eyeing a 50-15 fan upgrade for a while. The bridging on a nozzle that large is terrible but hopefully this upgrade can mitigate that. Also the wind Warden upgrade makes the tip a lot easier to access

Great video, I've always thought 4020 was a great middle ground for airflow vs bulk, but apparently not

Top notch work!

Fantastic job! Succinct video that sums up excellent suggestions. Bottom line: 5015 or two that has been used for years now is, in general, the way to go. You have a knack for this type of topics. Wonder if one day you'll disprove a common practice (like CNC kitchen has done a few times). Well done!

fantastic job, thanks, Number 1

One issue I've noticed with bigger fans is during bridging moves. Some of these larger fans don't even spool up until after the bridge has been completed. Kind of like turbo lag on a car.

A 247printing / bambulab aux fan not fitted to the print head seem to be the best upgrade. Not seen it done on a bed slinger yet as you'd have to mount it on the x gantry, but it's totally doable.

I run a HeroMe gen 7 set up with a Noctua 40x20 on the hot end and two 5015 fans for part cooling. I have a sprite I am thinking about modding as the stock blowers are well...

Great job.

Ótimo resultados !

5015 for parts cooling and 5015 for extruder cooling on my modded Ender3S1.. works great.

it would be interesting then what kind of fan would be ideal for side cooling for z-axis print bed (as opposed to bolted down printbed/bedslinger) considering mass isn't a big deal, what would be the sweet spot of airflow vs noise

I designed a dual 5015 mod for the voron 2.4, and was still able to run 7k accelerations -- with a canbus toolhead board, so weight savings of removing the cable chains, I was able to keep the weight down, and cooling performance is excellent.

You should also consider current ratings, bearing type and brand, for example i got a SK branded 5015 woth dual bearings and its so god damnit loud

Excellent video!

this is already a GOAT video/comparison, but I'm dying to know how 4x 4010 would compare? Takes up around as much space as 2x 5015, and the 2x 4010 was surprisingly strong.

Mine use huge blower fans attached to the frame. The air supplied to the hotend through silicone casw, and yes i use liauid cooling.😅

I run dual 5015 fans on my anycubic vyper, and a single 5015 on my svo6 plus.

I'm running a 4020 axial fan for the hotend cooling and a 5015 blower for part cooling. I tend to run the blower at around 60% for most prints (for a little less noise and to try and eek out lifespan) but for bridging I tend to ramp it up to 100% (using Cura's "experimental" bridge settings). Most of the time this works pretty well for me - so far.

i used dual 5015 for a while but switched to a single 12032 that is mounted on the side of the printer and connected trough a hose to the printhead. - all the airflow i could ever need - no weight on the printhead - the fan should live longer because its not being shaken by the hotend moving ;) - runs perfectly fine from the fan header of my creality 4.2.7 board :D

I go through a 4010 heatbreak fan about every 8 months. I really wish there was a more durable option out there. My 5015 part cooling fans have no issues with the acceleration (25k @ 750mm/s)

I tried a 4020 fan but it amplifies the noise from the pwm speed control. I found that 2 4010 fans have good cooling and less noise than the 4020. I don't have space for 5015 in my printer.

I bought 2 4020 by mistake so I use those in pair, I agree with everything you said, they are weak, can rattle at high accel, in pair they are ok but not much or at all better than 2 4010

Thank you for your comparison testing. I'm only just starting out into the wide world of 3D printing and as such this may sound a bit weird. But has anyone tried to use a high volume air pump? There'd be no noise from a fan per say, and the air flow can be fine adjusted to the precise point at which it is needed and can be located away from the hot end and have no vibration issues

2 x winnsinn 5015 hydraulic sleeve bearing on sprite extruder,sonic pad speed..the fans are spot on

great vid

I have two 5015 fans on my e3d v6 /titan clone setpu, i have a week trying to find why my printer halt, then i figure it out that i need the TEFLON socket because if the fans go up 60% , the air refelected in the model download my hotend temperature so low , thats triger the Marlin error , and stop printig, so PUT A SILICON SOCKET IN THE BLOCK, PROBLEM SOLVE (i musts do that first but i change the termistor, nozzle, try pid calibration , all of that first...good leson for me)

Will the 24v 4010 fan performance be greater than its 12v counterpart and if yes then how much increase?

hello can u share stl file for 2 in 1 fan that u use for the test, thx b4

Oh yes, 5015 fans are noisy as hell :)) I am in the middle of redesigning the hotend cooling, thanks for the data, it's useful and i will change my design

would like to see a cpap fan tested

My printer has stock 30mm for E3D Heatsink and 2x 4010 fans. Interestingly the 30mm fan was the big problem on mine not the 4010 fans. So I have to replace the crappy 30mm fan since I got heatcreep issues and it was loud as well.

I personally use a 4028 server fan, pushes so much air, and it'g great for fast parts.

Something else about 4020 fans, is they blow air out at a 90 degree angle towards one side. This will cause uneven air flow, especially if you have split or more ducting. I found smaller ducting gives it more backpressure and far more even distribution. And going on a deep dive also found blower motors are made to operate in high static pressure environments, i.e. pushing air through long ducts in homes that go up multiple stories while pulling though dirty air filters. Either way, when i tested out a 5015 fan and i found it blows out almost straight out and moves slightly more outside of a duct. BUT i also tested a 4020 blower fan with 0.3A draw, vs a typical 0.08A draw.. literally blew my hair back. Only issue with a 24v 0.3A DC fan is low speeds, might ruin any print that isn't PLA and used mechanically. I'm currently designing a new part cooling duct for the 5015, see how that goes

I run 1 dual ball bearing 4020s and 1 5015. The only reason why I use the 4020s is to reduce weight to print at higher speeds.

There are various applications, so the idea will also spread.

I run 2x5015 for print cooling and one 4020 for hot end cooling. I’m impressed with this setting. I have a hard modded Ender 3s1 pro. Build a housing, use clipper, have linear rails on all axis, the z axis is with Pom anti backlash and brass sliders for z wobbling modded. I have a modded breakout board. Installed a bi metal heatbrake, z axis belt tensioner, and a full custom heat bed by a 750 watt 220v silicone heater isolated of course with an 6mm cast and cnc machined aluminum plate on silicone spacers. And a have squash balls feet. My whole electronic is upgraded with safer parts (meanwell power supply, extra fuse for the bed, ssr relay for the bed, some additional fan, cutouts in the botten cover).

Is there any way to have a second high velocity fan that only kicks on for overhangs? Not sure if there are slicers that can add gcode for that?

Word of note: i tried a Sunon MagLev fan, and it was a catastrophe, the magnetic bearing just cannot deal with high vibration environments. It made horrible noises. I'm still using it but i filled it with so much grease that it's mostly a sleeve bearing fan now :D My previous sleeve bearing fan died quickly, but the converted Sunon seems to be holding on. I think double ball bearing fans are the only fans suitable for a high vibration use. So next a Delta fan i suppose :D Sunon also has another problem, Autorestart feature. It does not play well with PWM, the fan goes crazy. You can either up the PWM frequency, that sort of works but lead to weird noises. I ended up building a Pi filter, but i sort of went a little wild on capacitance, the control delay is hilarious but it works i guess.

Twin 5015's running 40% seems quieter than the board fan on my little kingroon.

That's a very interesting printhead for KP3s, can you share the link?

I only ever met 40x10 fans that come stock from Creality and they are noisy AF. I've switched Steve's ones to two axial Gdstme 40x20 with Briss Fang, and it was way quieter all this time. Now I've switched to Creality Sprite and it comes with another set of noisy Creality fans. I'm considering a mod for two 40x20 again because I have them, but I think the mod I'm looking at requires one axial and one.. the other one, so I'd still have to buy some more. One 50x20 is considered two... I'm not ready for two of them ;)

fabreeko and west3d are what I'm stick with from now on. Both are incredibly good quality and price to performance is great compared to delta.

What about 75mm fans?

Dual 5015s FTW

well im a crazy person and i run an omega cooler for my ender 3 v3 se which uses a 80 mm pc fan but i have an adapter and i am usicng a 6015 axial fan

Man do some testing between all different 5015 brands! There seems to be so many (Delta, sunon, th3d, winsinn, creality, MX/topfan, etc)

i actually using a 4010 fan in my custom corexy printer made of ender 3 v2 parts, but, i will install a 5015 fan

How effective is a 5015 as a heatsink fan, if I can't mount it directly? I currently have a 3010 (or 3015, don't remember exactly) fan mounted directly to the heatsink (v6), and I'm wondering if placing the 5015 fan above the heatsink and ducting it would result in quieter operation?

The most really important points are completely missed here.... We need to talk about airflow and air pressure. When you open up a spec sheet, these are the values you find. This is your first clue: No manufacturer talks about airspeed.... Also, if you read some specsheets, you will find massive differences between blower fans of the same size. So comparing random models is questionable. Example1: An axial fan delivers a very high airflow, but a very low air pressure. If you mount an axial fan to a long/complex cooling duct, it will be ineffective. Because it cannot press the air trough the duct. That is why we use blower fans for part cooling - they deliver a much higher air pressure. Example2: The BerdAir system uses an actual airpump and delivers a very little amount of air under extrem pressure to the printed part. This outperforms your standard 5015 fan and is commonly used in the highend area. So we further increased the pressure and decreased the airflow. HOWEVER: If you your ducting/delivery sytem is quite open/direct, a higher airflow at lower pressure does the trick as well. It is however less directed to immediately cool the plastic when it is layed down. This might affect the printers performance while printing overhangs. You want to cool these directly out of the nozzel. Conclusion regarding airspeed: If you deliver twice the air at a slightly lower airspeed, your cooling will still be better overall. If you widen your duct for a "lower pressure" airspeed fan, you will immediately increase its overall performance in direct comparsion to a "higher pressure" fan. The "higher pressure" fan will profit less of this change. Meaning your test setup does provide only partially valid data. In general: The RIGHT amount of cooling will deliver the best printing result. Too much cooling will even result in issues - depending on your filament. The required cooling depends on the material flow. If you build a highend-speed-printer, your 5015 fan will not be sufficient. Of if you print with a 0.8mm or 1.0mm nozzle. For your standard printers, like Prusa i3, Ender etc. the print speed is limited. There is no need to make the printhead heavier by mounting an overweight part cooling fan to it. A proper fan duct is most important here - you want equal cooling performance from all sides.

I question your anemometer setup. Ideally an anemometer presents no loading to the airflow, it just spins freely. But using only one third of the anemometer opening is making it behave like a turbine with an attached compressor. The open side is going to push/pull ambient air presenting the fans with a much higher loading (pressure drop) than they would be with just a duct alone. This will bias the measurement, and fans with better pressure performance vs airflow will outshine. Minimally you should block the open inlets of the anemometer so they have less loading.

Is a 6028 worth it for having more than 2x the airflow of a 5015? (Also, 2x 5015's weight)

Hey thanks for the video I was searching for something like this for a long time, ty for going so in-depth. I had a question what if I use no nozzle on the front and run a 7530 vs 2x 5015 (price and weight don't matter) will the dual 5015 still pull ahead with unobstructed flow? edit: both noise and heat removal are important as they will be used in a room next to the bedroom

For relubrication avoid motor oil or any mineral oil in general. Use ATF hydraulic oil or silicone based oils instead. WD40 will ruin a bearing too.

5015s vs 5015 ??

single delta 5015 on a EVA 2.4.2 toolhead

Now how does airspeed affect print quality? From what I've read the higher the cooling, the better the pieces look, but the lower the layer adhesion. My question would be where is a good point? I usually run a single 5015 fan at full speed with the Petsfang cooler. Is this maybe already too much?

Oh, to answer your question. I'm running 2x 5015 blowers and 2x 8025 axial fans. 😁 You can see them on my channel.

I have seen noctua 4020 server fans put into a duct... I wonder how that would compare.

as far as i understood partcooling its not about airspeed but airflow. airspeed: the speed of the air in m/s as mentionend in the video. airflow: how much airvolume per second. i want to know about the airflow and not about the airspeed. cause the speed could be very high but the airflow at the same time very low. so this data seems quite useless in my opinion.

It's difficult to find a 5015 blower that doesn't whistle at speed lower than 100%. Often materials like PETG needs 20-40% blower speed, and the whole printing will be with an obnoxious hissing.

after running dual 5015s for a few years Im going back to dual 4010s, the noise just isnt worth it.

Would be nice to see 5020s. Reportedly they're quieter *and* have better performance than 5015s.

interesting cause the voron printers use 4020 fans

Like said before, the brand of the fan matters quiet a lot. And most importantly, the design of the fan ducts

Sleeve bearings are only silent when new. Hydraulic bearings are better sleeve bearings with a bigger oil reservoir. Ball bearings stay the same for years.

I always feel like the 4020 moves more air than the 5015. Honestly, I hate 5015's. They're too large and I always felt their output sucked but clearly I Was wrong. I really like the 4020's as noise isn't a problem. Not sure why I feel like this. lol

This accent sounds familiar :)

I suppose it's completely subjective, but measuring noise level alone doesn't reflect the TONE of the noise. I am much more comfortable with the tone of a 4020 or 5015 fan than the screech of a 4010 fan.

I'm more of a 6061 or 7075 kind of guy

9GAX0412P3S001 eva drop mike

Weight is irrelevant. Put the fan on the printer frame and bring the air by a hose to the printhead. Solved.

I just installed new 4010 set , BB fans...yes there is a diffrence in RPM between them and Sleeve.There noticeably faster.

Brand/manufacture is the biggest factor to all aspects here unfortunately. Those appear to be wathai 4020 fans. There is a new version out more that completely annilate the old ones

You did get a CNC machine, noise should not be that much of a factor.