We talk to Professor Martin Burtscher of the University of Innsbruck about pre-acclimatization for mountaineering objectives. He tells us if he thinks normabaric hypoxic generators work to prevent Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), HAPE and HACE.
He tells us about the optimal hours to use them and how long we can take a break from real hypobaric or simulated altitude and retain acclimatization benefits.
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It helps to track O2 % levels coming out of the mask or in your tent to make sure you are at the desired simulated altitude.
Your blood ox % should fall while in the tent or on the mask and your pulse rate should rise. Pulse ox meters are key to measuring the effectiveness of simulated altitude training.
Acclimatization stimulates the production of red blood cells and reduces the risks of developing symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS) on your ascent of a high to extreme altitude peak. AMS symptoms are headache, nausea, shortness of breath, difficulty breathing, and dizziness. More sever AMS are high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) which can be life threatening if the climber cannot descend quickly.
Two studies we liked were
Martin Burtscher, Urs Hefti, Jacqueline Pichler Hefti, "High-altitude illnesses: Old stories and new insights into the pathophysiology, treatment and prevention" Sports Med Health Sci
. 2021 Apr 16;3(2):59-69. doi: 10.1016/j.smhs.2021.04.001.
Burtscher, M., Millet, G.P. & Burtscher, J. Hypoxia Conditioning for High-Altitude Pre-acclimatization. J. of SCI. IN SPORT AND EXERCISE 4, 331-345 (2022). doi.org/10.100...
You can e-mail Professor Burtscher at Martin.Burtscher@uibk.ac.at with questions.
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