After 300 hours of hypoxic altitude training split between between sleeping in the tent and sitting or standing in a mask hooked up to a normobaric generator, some Linus Wilson gives some lessons learned. Raising altitude while awake is easier than by sleeping and most people can expect to hit a wall after 11 to 12% around 4,000 to 5,000 meters. Other tips are try to raise altitude by 300 meters or 1,000 feet per 24 hours in the generator. Always test the O2 percent of the output because sometimes the generator output varies and ambient air in the tent varies a ton from the generator's published O2 output. You should see your SpO2 (blood oxygen) go up for a give FiO2 (air oxygen percent) after five days = 24 hours X 5 = 120 hours. We discuss the Hypoxico recommendations which were published in an academic journal article listed below.
This is not medical advice. You should consult a physician and consider this within your own climbing goals and medical situation.
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It helps to track O2 % levels coming out of the mask or in your tent to make sure you are at the desired simulated altitude.
Acclimatization stimulates the production of red blood cells and reduces the risks of developing symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS) on your ascent of a high to extreme altitude peak. AMS symptoms are headache, nausea, shortness of breath, difficulty breathing, and dizziness. More sever AMS are high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) which can be life threatening if the climber cannot descend quickly.
Some studies mentioned or liked were
Markus Tannheimer Raimund Lechner
"An analysis of Commercially
for normobaric preacclimatization," Health Promotion & Physical Activity , 2021, 14 (1), 25-29
gave us the Hypoxico training recommendations. I actually think the conclusions are very bad because the sample of mountain guides likely gained little to nothing from normobaric hypoxia because they were very well acclimatized to begin with.
2023
"Central sleep apnea due to high-altitude periodic breathing"
Hrayr P Attarian MD, Ali Karaki MD
www.medlink.co...
Lorente-Aznar T, Perez-Aguilar G, García-Espot A, Benabarre-Ciria S, Mendia-Gorostidi JL, Dols-Alonso D, et al. Estimación de la saturación arterial de oxígeno en función de la altitud. Med Clin (Barc). 2016;147:435-440.
International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance, 2019, 14, 1438-1441
doi.Org/10.112...
On Top to the Top-Acclimatization Strategy for the “Fastest Known Time” to Mount Everest
Gregoire P. Millet and Kilian Jornet
See our videos:
Killian Jornet's Hypoxic Generator Pre-Acclimatization to Climb Everest in Record Time
• Killian Jornet's Hypox...
Hypoxic Generator Pre-Acclimatization for High Altitude Mountaineering with the Jay-10H by Longfian
• Hypoxic Generator Pre-...
Mt. Kilimanjaro Summit on the Northern Circuit Route, Part 3, Days 7, 8, and 9
• Mt. Kilimanjaro Summit...
HAPE on the Summit of Pico de Orizaba 18,491 feet, the Highest Mountain in Mexico, AMS
• HAPE on the Summit of ...
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